Wheel Bearing

Just wondering if it is possible for me to do this myself. I am reading the description on RTM website and it says: The bearing must first be pressed into the knuckle, and then the hub pressed into the innner race of the bearing once it's in place in the knuckle. I am wondering if this is something I need a machine to press it in or if this is something that can be done by hand.

It CAN be done by hand
Better by press.
Brass or aluminum punch would be handy too

Do not attempt! Either replace the entire spindle or take it to a shop. The shop will be swearing too, so really the better choice is a replacement spindle so that you can do it yourself or save labour either way.

I use my press to do the front and rear wheel bearings on my 1g DSM's. Its very easy with a press. You could do them without one if you really had to, but I'd rather take them to a shop rather than try to pound and deform them.

Gosh, my press was probably the best $100 I ever spent at princess auto I use it for everything.

Ok, good to know. Thanks guys, I have a rubbing noise coming from the front right tire that I can hear when I turn the wheel to the right a little when I am driving fast, can't hear it at low speeds.

So now I am thinking it's not that, I can hear the rubbing but I lifted the car and the wheel doesn;t move at all. Anything else that could make that rubbing noise? There is no brake dust shield there.

If it's not very noisy and if you don't have a vibration, it can't be serious.

How are your brakes?

Brakes are good but they did seem a little weaker today than they usually are. I am pretty sure the pads are good though, but haven't looked recently. I have new rotors I am putting on so I was going to look then.

You know what (sorry just thought of this) when I push on the brakes it pushes back at me like little bumps. So I am guessing that maybe the rotors could be warped?

yep, that's what that bumpy bumpy feel is. make sure your calipers aren't seized. seized calipers overheat the pads which warps the rotors. Otherwise they could just be cheap rotors, they shouldn't warp under normal use.

oh, and check your lug nuts...it happens.

Ok, the rears might be seized a bit, I am hoping it's the fronts though because the rear rotors are pretty new. What about leaving on the e brake for a few days could that warp it?

Leaving the park brake on wont warp rotors. It might cause some corrision in that area where the pads are but 5 mins down the road that should be cleared up.
every 6 months I take my brakes apart and clean up the sliders and lube the hell out of them to make sure that the pads dont stick in the sliders and the caliper pins are well lubed as well. Prolongs the life of everything.

What are you using to lube them up, I should probably start doing that.

Brake lube

Anti seize

The non-fancy name for the stuff is "silicone dielectric grease". Put it on all moving surfaces, except for the friction surfaces of course.

anti sieze is bloody brilliant stuff. I also work at a shop and every tech has a bottle of it laying around
Its a grey paste that just stays in better than most things

They will if your brakes are hot. One of the first things I tell track newbs (road course, anyways) is to NEVER put your parking brake on after you get off the track. It causes uneven cooling and makes it quite easy for the rotors to warp.

Thanks for the tips guys!

Don't put the gray or silver or black or copper anti-sieze on the slider pins it will ruin the slider boots. Only use the silicone lube on them.

just picked up a new tube of "sil-glide" $20. It'll last me 10 or so brake services

Should last longer than that. You dont need that much on each slider.

you're right..I was taking a wild guess lol

yeah was no tthinking about the track days and park brakes (we dont get track days in NS we just get to read about them on here)

so I finally figured out what the cause of my noise was. Just found it today on my drive home, but am not sure what part it is that I need. Seems to be the bolt on the steering gear that mounts to the wheel. Any one know where I can get this bolt? So did some research and am thinking this is the part that I need, some confirmation would be great.

Found this hiding in the 2g section, is this what I need? should I replace both?

Also is this any worse?

What you took a pic of is a tie rod yes. And yes change both. Make sure you mark your tie rods and measure your new ones compared to the old ones or you'll need an alignment

K thanks Kyle! Any thoughts on the two I posted? Are the moog ones worth the extra?

Moogs are lifetime warranty, and generally a very good product.

Tie rod end. Its a wear item. Best is to replace and take it for an alignment, or take the car in for an alignment and tell them to replace the tie rod end before they do it. More than likely any good shop should check for play (in the ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, wheel bearings, or control arm bushings) in both wheels before they do the alignment anyways.

I'll be doing this swap this week!

Moog is good and guaranteed for life. I'd buy them, but it depends on your plan for the car. Cheap ones are good for safeties or if you dont like spending money on parts. It might fail twice as fast as the Moog part and youd end up buying 2-3 over the same span. I'm not sure in the quality as I always buy the moog or what ever canadian tire sells. They quite often have 2 for 1 sales which is always good

These guys want 160 to install the tie rod ends and then 135 to do the alignment, this is at Brampton Chrystler. I will order them today and put them on myself, but do you guys have a good place for me to go near me (Brampton at Ching and Bovaird) to get the alignment done?

Also, should I get a pickle fork to do this?

As for the tierod ends, mine are NOT GOOD! I'm in a bit of a bind so (sorry Ziggy) I'm heading over to crappy tire and getting their "Nascar" ones. Still have a lifetime warranty and at the same price point as the Moog ones.

Bryan, just be careful and set the tierods yourself. Provided they're the same length and even if they aren't I'm sure you can measure out the proper distance.

Canadian Tire reboxes Moog under their "Nascar" brand for suspension. Just the same as they rebox Raybestos brake pads under the "Nascar" name. So you're good

As far as replacing them... when you thread the old outer tie rod off, count the number of rotations it took you to get it off. Thread the new ones on with the same number of rotations, and you probably won't even need an alignment.

I threw mine on the rack afterwards just in case and everything was in the green for me.

What tools you think I should need for this?

The usual tools for taking off your wheel, I believe the tie rod nut is a 14mm but don't quote me (should either be 14mm or 17mm), 2 wrenchs for the adjusting lock nut (one can be adjustable if need be), penetrating oil, and a mini sledge (to free up the tie rod from the spindle).

Oh, and beer. Obviously.

SWEET! Thanks for the clarification on that Jeremy
I'm sure you're right with the 14 for the nut. also might need a balljoint separator or a mallet to bust the joint loose.

Cool, thanks guys!

Just watched a video and some dude used this thing called a grease gun, do I need to grab this, or should it be filled already?

I think mine actually came empty with the boot and grease nipple separate. You don't need a grease gun for installation though, just for maintenance. Just clean the joint well and pack the boot full of chassis grease before you put the end together. When you put the grease-filled boot on the end, the extra grease should squeeze out through the threads for the grease nipple. Clean it off, thread the nipple in, install and enjoy

Hey Ian, did a little research and found this:
Moog warranties their parts and products to be free from defects in materials and workmanship for one year from the date of purchase.

You sure about the lifetime?

Sorry, I forgot we let a few things slip by here at work. Moog (along with a few other manufacturers) put a lifetime warranty on their parts provided they are installed by a professional. Backyard mechanics get a 1 year warranty.

We honour the lifetime warranties even for our backyard mechanic accounts...

oh cool, that's good to know.

Picked mine up today and they were already filled.
Also, after installing them she likes to turn left a little more then right. Just a little snappier that is but it drives straight.
I counted the turns off the original ones and tried to match them as close as I could. I'm dead even on the passenger side and minus 1/2 turn on the driver side. Imagine that has to do with the slight pull. *Sigh... might need an alignment afterall.