Love and Hate

So I will give you some background as to why I bought the car, some issues I had, and what I will be doing in the next little while.

So just to start you guys off I knew very little, compared to what I know now, about cars when I bought this. I knew turbos made cars go fast and that bigger horse power meant faster car.

How she started:


The plan when I bought the car was not to spend too much money, that didn't happen, and to learn a lot about cars by doing the work on my own, wasn't happening at the beginning but is happening now. Even though mechanics were doing the work I was following along and asking question so that I could understand what they were doing, but I never truly learn until I do things. I went to mitsubishi in orangeville to get the car safetied, I didn't know much about AWD back then and neither did they, they replaced one of my tires so I spent a good amount of time with alignment issues. The car idled like sh!t, at first I had no idea what was up, the guys at mitsubishi just loosened the idle screw to "fix" it. I had spoken with them and they said it was the TPS being bad, except I know the TPS was relatively new. After doing some research on tuners, and finally listening to a buddy of mine I checked the cam marks to see how they lined up. Turns out my marks were off, and they were off by two teeth. Knowing nothing about interference engines and dual cams and such I decided to take it to Chrysler (Mitsubishi in Orangeville and Brampton were useless) in Brampton and get them to fix the timing. They fixed the timing and the car still ran a bit funny but was running better than before. A few weeks later I was on my way to the physio and I tried to get into first gear and I couldn’t get the clutch to engage, eventually I got it into first and got myself into first and got myself there. I had passed another mechanic on the way home and decided to drop in, as I would rather use the clutch instead of rev matching so I didn’t have to. Turns out the guy had worked on the lines when the car was being built and knew a lot, one of the springs in the clutch had come loose so they had to replace that, and restep the flywheel, which they facked up on. So we scrambled to find a solution and were able to locate a fidanza flywheel and put that in. After that I was an idiot and didn’t keep an eye on the oil level and overheated the car a few times, the first time I did it the car overheated and I stopped the car and let it cool off. The second and third time it happened (I know I should have figured it out) the coolant lines blew before the car could over heat. By this time I was looking for another car, and was on the edge of just getting rid of this thing. I also had my parents in my ear telling me I needed to get something reliable and stop spending money on this lemon. The second time I was on my way to get a banner on my car, one of the car sports I loved the most is WRC, so anything cosmetic to the exterior of my car has been inspired by that. I had been at the AutoShow and saw a company called ShizoWerks do a big vinyl on a car and decided to go with them.



So the third time it happened the mechanic told me the Oring on the CAS was leaking oil onto the coolant lines and eating them away, so got that fixed and kept an eye on oil from then on and the car has never over heated since then. The last time that happened was the beginning of last summer.
In April I moved into my brand new house and now had a garage that I could work on the car and not have to rush to have it done that day because my mom “needed” to park on the garage. Since the house I have only had one issue with something failing on the car and that was the brakes, and the lines were replaced an all is good.

Before I continue I would like to let this board know that since I have moved into my new place I have counted on this board for knowledge in assistance for fixing and now upgrading my car. The community has been there when I have needed knowledge and I have also had the pleasure of meeting a good amount of you and the greatest pleasure of working with some of you! So enough with the lovey dovey and on with the upgrades!

On Tuesday I will be having Chris and Jeremy helping me with doing a head swap and getting the timing done. I have done the compression on my engine and one of the cylinders is much lower than the rest. Jeremy believes that the valves in that cylinder are bent so I picked up a new head a good time back and am putting that on. I have been doing some reading and have decided to do the Oil port mod before I put it on. My goal has always been to get the car running correctly before doing any big work and this I am hoping will get me there.

So for big upgrades I will wait until I do them and will give some pictures and a summary of how it went, but for now it will be a secret. The one thing I will tell all of you is that my goal for the end of the summer is to have 300hp, at this pace it may happen earlier.

Awesome! Car looks good!

I should have added that the car looks a bit different now. The side skirts have been removed and the rear bumper replaced with a stock black one, oh and the hatch replaced with a stock black one as well. I will take some pictures when I head out today.

Interesting story! Mine was somewhat similar. Having your own garage and other daily runner makes all the difference.

Oh man all these build threads are killing me. This is the most dsm action we have had on this site since I been on here lol. Keep it up.

Agreed own garage has been a life saver! As for daily runner, don't have one, the house is right near the train station for work, and the girlfriend is with me during the weekend so we have her car.

Yeah, your own garage is everthing. Since losing the garage I rented last spring things have been difficult. Now I just sheared the teeth off the timing belt of my Laser and without a work place will have to scrap it.

Yeah I am loving working at a dealership I get to use a hoist every night I wish to and any saturday I am not working. So I am always making some changes as things go along. I just wish I had the people that Ont group seems to have. In NS we have 3 people that I am aware of Scott myself and Troy all of us are distant apart.
This sites been amazing, people on here are very good the sites well run and RTM has made this car more fun to be around.

5-6 years back,I used to always see this car on my way to and from work. I always thought it looked interesting.

Just a little onfo on those body panels you had on your car.

The rear bumper lip and side skirts are from a rare body kit that was a certain dealer option applied to the Lasers up here in Canada. Was made by A&A Specialties.

There is actually a door panel piece that completes the skirts appearance.

And there was a front lip attached to a laser bumper aswell...

LOL, Mike that would explain why it sold so fast!

Here is what she looks like now:

It's coming along Bryan! Glad to see that hatch from my old '90 still kickin'!

It's gonna look mean with that new front mount

The hood from your '90 will be going on this summer too. The car will be black and blue all over! Also going to see if I can figure out a way to get the top of the car back to black, the last guy painted on top of the black and it coming through so maybe there is a way I can get the blue off and keep the black on.

I can't wait!!

Are you planning to get the whole thing repainted?

Honestly no, my goal is not to make the car look fast. If I paint it, it will be by me and with bed liner

What about Linex???

Looking good man!

That rear bumper looks familiar...

That rear bumper is from Deep's 1ga he had sitting around, a good time ago.

Hm, I will have to look into Linex, I am not sure what brand I am using now, I just know I picked it up from crappy tire and that it is good stuff, when I took a wire wheel to it it didn't come off.

If I had your car, I would build one hell of a sleeper out of it Somedays I actually regret painting mine... I should've left it all beaten up, left the stock rims or a set of steelies.

My goal is to build a sleeper one day.

Yeah, that is exactly what she is!! I always tell people that hassle me about it being dirty or looking beat up, I don't care what it looks like as long as she goes fast and that I didn't buy the car because I wanted it to be fancy. Who wants to wash the car when there is performance things I could be doing to it!

Hmm i thought i gave you the rear bumper.

Anyhow... carry on

Well if I can find a drivers side front fender then you will see your front fender on there

So tomorrow Chris is coming over to help me with a lung transplant and then Jeremy will be there later to help me with timing.

As I had mentioned I was going to do the oil port mod, it went well and as stated in the guide it only takes maybe 5 minutes, also put the new studs in so it is ready for the exhaust manifold when we put it on. Also noticed that the guide didn't really mention precautions and such. I took a plastic bag and taped it to the head so oil the hole was showing, and stuffed the hole with a rag. It made for a super easy cleanup and was much less for me to worry about.

Some pics of the mod done, sorry no pics of before. Die grinder jumped a few times as you can probably tell from marks outside the gasket:

Head came off last night with the help of Chris. New head went on last night with the help of Jeremy. Unfortunately it seems I don't have a 1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter so I can't torque the head down. As soon as I can get it all torqued everything else will be going back on and will be ready to go. Here is what she look like now:

If the manifold is already off, you should slap that 16G on now, since half the battle is already done

I had so many issues with my exhaust manifold when I first got the car that I would consider myself an expert at putting it on so I don't mind taking it off again when we do the swap. I just hope the downpipe is not a bitch to get off the o2 housing.

Also was planning on porting the exhaust manifold but won't have time before then so going to do that probably after timing is all done.

I think i got some injectors lying around the shop, i'll try to find a plastic cap.

Thanks Jeremy!

Just so everyone is up to speed, I was in the process of putting everything back on last night and found this.

A few minutes later I found half of the cap on the intake of the head that just came off.

Glad you caught that before it cause ruckus somewhere else.

I think i have a 1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter. Have to rummage through my toolbox though.

Thanks Joe, just decided to pick one up, figured I might need it in the future.

So today I got a package from the nice post lady. (Also added a picture of the postage cause I thought it was pretty nice of him to change the value, as well as his name being enjoyable). The car is still not back up and running but should be by the end of the day tomorrow. I will probably be installing this next week in place of where my narrowband gauge is currently.

So last night I decided I would spend some time taking out the condenser. So I started by taking off all the lines that run from the condenser to the compressor on the drivers side, relatively easy task. I then decided to take out the condenser itself, at first my thought was that I was going to push back the rad and then muscle out the condenser, definitely not enough space with the stock fans, so I had to disconnect the rad and then pull it out and then take the condenser out. After getting it all out I took a look at the rad and it was not in the greatest condition, when i touched any of the lower fins they just crumbled off of the rad. Going to pick up an aluminum rad with some slim fans in the next little while.

So my next task, after getting the car running, is to get the wideband in. I have spent the last few days searching and looking at the service manual confused as to where I connect the narrow band signal to my ecu. Today I was lucky enough to find this, hopefully more will find some value. http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/1GECUPinout.pdf

You have a wide band.. why run a narrow band?

I am only running stock ECU for now, so there is a narrow band signal I will have to use. My other option is to wait till I get link and then just run the wideband signal with the narrowband sim.

I am running narrowband sim for mine, but I also went straight with link.

Keep in mind, if your wideband ever fails (as mine did at the Shootout last year...yay for high quality brand new sensors!) you're going to be stuck using open loop which is generally going to drain the tank a whole lot quicker.

Bryan there's a recent write up on Tuners about how to rig up an AEM UEGO to the stock ECU...the narrow band signal anyways.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...band-2g-turbo-place-stock-o2-sensor.html

Michael, I will be running a MTX-L (check the pictures if you want to see it) it has a wire for narrowband sim making it very easy to hook it up to the ECU for a stock setup. It also has a wideband signal that I can hook up to the ecu for link.

Salomon, I am confused as to how having SD will make it so I don't have to worry about that. Do you no longer run a o2 sensor?

Ignore that comment. I wasn't thinking (at least not about the topic at hand) when I wrote it.

/Need more sleep.

I'd keep your narrow band.. As the plug for the wideband has to heat up. those for giving crappy idle first thing in the mornning and such.

How can I keep my narrowband, do you mean I should put a 02 bung on the downpipe and run the wideband in that and keep the original narrow band?

When I ran mine I have a bung I welded into the DOwn pipe just before my test pipe (cat)
It works great that way you have more than one option when running link (when you get there)

Sven, the sensor takes no more than a few seconds to warm up and you can just turn the key to on (without starting the car) first if you want to warm it up before starting. You'll know it's warm when the reading goes to "---" or whatever the max number is (i.e ultra lean), since it's only reading ambient air.

So Chris came by on thursday and we spent a few hours putting my engine all back together and doing the timing! We started the car, the only thing that is left to do is to check the base timing and to fill up the coolant. It was so nice hearing my car starting up again and it had been last then two weeks, I don't know how you guys doing big builds go so long without hearing your cars!

nice feeling isn't it? I didn't hear mine run for roughly 8 months. So to hear it fire up for the first time, well, it gave me a "meat puppet".

Got mine started yesterday too! Turned out being a fuse
Idled beautifully! Revved up even better

When are these meets starting???

Yeah definitely is a great feeling!!

That's sick!! LOL, that was like when my fuse for my radio was bad but I didn't spot it so I bought a new fuse box.

I will schedule something at trinity in the next few weeks, then we can figure out time and day.

So I took the car for a drive this weekend, which was very exciting!!

I had a minor freak out though, when we first started the car Chris had said "What is that ticking noise!?" I guess I was too excited to notice it so I said don't worry about it. Started the car on Saturday to fill up the coolant and could now hear what Chris was talking about, after freaking out for a while I figured out that it was just lifter tick and that after the lifters fill with oil that it would no longer make that noise (Thanks Lucian for the enlightenment). Anyways, the ticking is gone now and the car is holding vacuum wonderfully at around 20 hg, the old head would only let me get around 10ish.

The engine stand that Canadian tire sells is on sale this week so I am going to pick that up and might start tearing into the engine that Eric dropped off (from Adam).

Tomorrow I will be putting in a 16g and a front mount intercool. I will be running short route for piping. For boost control I tapped the compressor housing and ran a line from the new nipple to the wastegate actuator, this will be done until I decide to up my boost, I will then put my manual boost controller back on. I will also add that I will be running the 2g o2 housing because of the issues I have heard people have with running the evo o2 housing. Here are some pics:

So tonight I decided I would spend time porting my exhuast manifold. Here is the finish product, let me know what you guys think! I would also like to note that it takes 2 hours to do this, I didn't believe it when Lucian told me but here I am two hours after I started. Also good news for me, I took a close look at my 2g o2 housing and it has been ported already!

Looks good! And good news on the O2 housing Can't wait to hear this thing!

Out of curiosity, what sorts of problems have you heard about using the EvoIII O2 housing?

here is a good comparison shot:

because of that angle it puts pressure on the flex pipe as well as cause the exhaust to hit the transfer case. So if you are running a FWD I assume you would be ok.

Bryan i like your intake where did you get it.

Ziggy has them. I got it from a member though, I also got the filter from a member, then the coupler came from Ziggy.

get those injectors in son!.

LOL, soon. Link is not here yet, as soon as it get's here they are going in, I am also going to fix the line so that it is inside the collars.

yea.. i couldn't get that, The line is smarter then me. I'd shorten the line a bit, I had it mounted right beside the clutch master. And it was LONG.. also the afpr is set for 43.5 with running no vaccum to it.

Thanks for that letting me know! I will have to adjust to 37 psi, and I think I will wait for link so I can just have it turn on the fuel pump and do it that way.

I'm glad to see you have been doing some homework and learning lots in the past few weeks! I'm looking forward to seeing your reaction to the fmic and 16g tomorrow. You'll love them, going from a 14b and smic.

Good work on the manifold

Even coming from a SMIC to FMIC there's a big difference especially during the summer. No more heatsoak!

Good to know, thanks!

Thanks Guys!

Yeah Lucian, I started watching the link instruction videos so I can learn how to do stuff. It's definitely going to be a good drive today!!

So Lucian came over last night and we got a ton of work done, 16g is on. I would also like to thank Chris, that is his sawzall. The only thing that is left is to put the FMIC on and get the bumper back on. I was pretty frustrated last night though because the j pipe I got from jay was passenger side facing and the one you need for a 1g is driver side facing, so I have emailed Ziggy so I can get that ordered so that I can finish up on Monday.

Love watching progress on this as its almost like my twin car! Other than color we seem to be doing similar mods. Always fun to watch it again or see whats next on mine

aah the beauty of owning your own home garage

Yeah Jason, I am however dreading the fuel pump change after hearing all the horror stories.

Alex, I don't know what I would do without it. My car would definitely be less upgraded than it is now that is for sure!

get in there now and take a can of Rust check or PB blaster and soak the area down, it will benifit you when the day comes to do the job. Honestly mine was not that hard however I did just cut the fuel line and use a hose to re-connect the two parts.

Soak the sh!t out of the area. Both the nuts holding the sending unit in AND the fitting from the sending unit to the flexible fuel hose.

I managed to get my sending unit out with 4/6 studs intact, but the hard neck on the sender cracked through and the hardline under the car broke, so I am now running a full S/S -6AN setup from sending unit to rail (and -8AN from rail to AFPR). It's actually not that pricey to do, but it's a whole lot better when you plan to do it instead of being left 'stranded' because it broke.

Summary:

1) Soak the sh!t out of everything with some sort of PB Blaster/Penetrant/etc.
2) Be fully aware and prepared for the fact that stuff is likely to break. (Hopefully it doesn't though).

So it was my hope that I would come on here tonight and tell everyone how great the new turbo is and how nice the FMIC is, unfortunately after putting everything on (my god was getting the j pipe on a pain in the ass) I did a boost leak test and found a huge boost leak coming through the bolt hole on the j pipe, I have added some rtv and will re-tighten tomorrow and see what the results are.

Here is a picture of the bumper mounted over the FMIC, thank you to chris for lending me the tools I needed to do some cutting and for coming over today and cutting the bumper to fit.

So I planned to go for a ride today but I had a nice boost leak where the flange for the BOV meets the tube that was welded to the tubing, turns out it had been cross thread, both me and my buddy wrestled with it for a while and then got inovative and put it between two mail boxes to twist it off, the piece twisted off an took some threads with it too, the piece is now going to have to be welded on cause I have no way of salvaging the threads. I don't have pictures now, I will take some tomorrow before and after the work is done.

Awe, shitty to hear man It seems the car keeps putting this off for you. It really wants you to enjoy it whenever it decides to stop playing mind games with you! Hahaha

Did you get the bumper cover back on?

Not yet, Chris just finished cutting the support on tuesday and I wanted to finish the boost leak test before I put it all back on.

So I went for a drive yesterday after putting everything back on, the car felt nice until I started getting into boost and around 4k it started bucking like a bronco. I checked me settings and it looks good on the MAFT but I am not sure what to do next. Lucian had said put the stock maf back on so I am going to try and do that.

Stock boost?
The MAF-T is probably set too rich and you are hitting fuel cut. Lean it out a click at a time and see if it helps. Watch your knock.

I have mad PK so not sure that is it. Plus I watched my IDC and it only went up to maybe 50% so that can't be it. Stock MAF is back on the car so we will see how that goes. Link showed up yesterday anyways and I will be installing that on monday so SD should be in there in the next few weeks. Thought everyone might want to see the mess that is my current setup.

Has anyone else thought that all this "piping" in our turbo cars is just like plumbing for sinks and toilets?

Everything needs a proper seal, and we're constantly searching out leaks.

Could we not consult plumbers on how to keep a nice and tight system?

yeah I remember the mess your dealing with the attempt to bend the recirc hose...go SD and be rid of more of it. i got a cold air arm and just went with catch can and no more recirc I just let the bov go out to the world.
Problem with plumbing is they use glue and we have our cars apart every other day it seems so the glue would be hellish

Setting up the recirc with the intake I have actually isn't to bad, once SD is in I will be putting on the shinny intake with the recirc and be good to go. Supposedly there is no difference in performance so I think I am good with silence instead of psh everytime I shift. Although when I first got into turbo cars I loved that sound. If I upgrade to a 4" intake than I will go non-recirc.

Funny you say that... most times I'm searching for boost leaks I wind up at the local plumbing supply store

They have some pretty good thread sealers and test plugs and the like for mucking around with your setup.

all the stuff I needed for making my boost leak tester was made from stuff in the home hardware plumbing section.

So for the past year and a half I have had numerous people ask me what the original paint colour off my car was. I told everyone that it was this nice blue, mainly because it was the colour of my engine bay and it looked like it was well done. Well I went to put a sticker in the engine bay yesterday and the below happen, I would say it looks really cool and I now believe the original colour of my car was red.

So last night was spent doing the wiring for my A/F gauge and fixing a boost leak. I have some pictures of the the intall, the first is how I attach the connector to the hanger, second is the connector being birthed into the cabin of the car and the third is the gauge in the pod. I have yet to connect the wideband because I ran out of time. I have the wire diagram I linked earlier so I will cut that wire and run narrow band sim in Link. Oh and I forgot to add that my laptop screen showed up tuesday so I installed and now I have a laptop for link.

So today was pretty productive, I finished my install of my AF Gauge and hooked up Link. Also did a few logs so I will probably take a look at those tomorrow or something. NB sim is working flawlessly.

Unfortunatley this happened when I was fixing my lines on my AFPR so was no too happy about that, going to see if I can find some one local with a replacement.

Is That a spiderman blanky Bryan?

Not a blanky just a small carpet. It's spiderman crouched on the b train. The wife doesn't think it belongs at the front door so I keep it in the laundry room where I do some of my less dirty car stuff.

That sucks

LOL, it was there for a while.

Alright so tonight I finished SD install, not even sure where to start with tuning it. I did the CombinedFT and it seemed to do ok, didn't really go for any big pulls, car pulled well and creeped on me once. I have since put the new intake back on and have shortened the hose on the MAP, will have to go for a spin later. Also not sure how to fix idle, the idle is currently low and I have compensated with backing out the biss screw, still struggles a little to hold a solid idle. Hoping that the shorter hose will help, plus it is straight now and not curved. Anyways enough with the chitter chatter here are the pictures. Did some quick work on my AFPR line so I threw a picture in there too. Oh and as for the IAT, I asked him to weld it lower then that but unfortunately he did not.

Any pictures of your MAP set up ?
It is realy important with SD set up

LOL, I know that! If you look to the right of the TPS it is hiding under those wires.

I also have to give Kent a thank you, he was the one that pushed me to get SD, tonight is my first long cruise with it in so I am curious to see how she does. Question though, should I reset my SD table to the default or should I keep what was created and keep working with that?

I have my map directly from a vaccuum port on the intake plenum there shoul dbe one near where the pvc is connected to it next cylinder over to the drivers side. Cant get more accurate then right in the manifold

mine uses the PVC port.

Jason you using the one on the right there?

So Mr.Stacey and myself met up a few weeks ago and I was telling him about how my progress on my car was being held up because I didn't have a non cruise cable. He had mentioned that he made his own from the cruise stuff, but recommend I don't risk it on my box incase I screw it up. A while back Joe had given me a box of free stuff and it had a 90 cruise cable so figured I might use that. I had been waiting on a non cruise cable from someone but was tired of waiting and decided I would give it a go. I called my boy Chris up and we got together and created a non cruise cable from the two cables that came off the 90 cruise unit, here is the out come below, because we didn't want to fabricate too much the cable will do a loop to make it back to the intake. I will take pictures after the install on sunday probably.

Yes sir thats the one!

What is your Fuel Pressure regulator using?

Here are the before and after of the cruise delete, I know need to figure out where and how I am going to mount my AFPR, any tips would be great!

So yesterday the 3" Exhaust went on, headed over to zoro and they put everything on, the pipe that had the cat on had to be cut so I decided to get them to put it on. I unfortunately forgot to take some pictures when it is still up on the lift but I have to say, this car is a beast now. I have never spun the tires and first but now as I hit boost the tires chirp for a second and it is an insane feeling, I definitely couldn't be happier with the upgrade!

..and the beast grows stronger.

Just wait until the rest of the goodies go in and you start tuning on link!

But yeah.. no pics is fail

L shaped peice of sheetmetal. self tapping screws into the firewall- done

LOL yeah i know, I have started to play around with tuning, mostly just idle tuning and the open loop tuning for SD. Soon I will start the WOT tuning, as soon as the injectors go in!

Thanks for the tip Luc, I am going to see if I can find something like that at home depot or canadian tire.

Sorry dude, I use a split off my boost gauge for my fpr. I am also having issues still with my FPR so I have to look at replacing it

Still want mine? As soon as I get the AFPR on I will be going to get rid of it as well as the solenoids.

Yeah if you dont mind I can send you my contact info and what ever costs associated with it

Post some pics of the front end with the bumper put on! I wanna see her new teeth.

Hey sorry about the wait, I have been busy and keep forgetting to take pictures, I will take another when I go out next time, for now this is one in the garage. I am also having issues with starting after the afpr install so that is really annoying.

Glad you went and tried the cruise delete your self..

I threaded my fuel rail ends to 3/8s NPT

Used a male 3/8s NPT to male 10-an fitting adapter,

Threaded my Aeromotive afpr straight onto the 10-an adapter.

This was done on the other end by the TB... then ran a braided 6-an line from the filter to the end of the rail where the stock fpr used to be.

Ya thanks again for the tip Jay. Interesting setup, I am not sure when I will start looking into redoing lines, next step is to do the pump which I hear is exciting! Probably look at taking that on next week.

Make sure you have a GOOD set of NEW vise grips! and plenty of PB Blaster! I ended up cutting the trunk pan around the pump to get a better grip on the nuts.. and after spouking them for 5 days, I still broke 3 of 6. I was gonna just make my own plate to cover the fuel pump that was bigger to compisate for the bigger hole!

But I scrapped the car instead.

If I ever have to swap pumps in a 1g again, I think ill just drill a hole thru the sender thread in a pick-up tube. Then runa an external walbro

LOL that is any interesting way to do it.

Also I got some fancy penetrating oil from chris so I am using that and supposedly it is really good, I have soak it a few times already but not any time recently, my plan was to hit it a few times before I actually go in so probably all weekend then hit it on monday.

coke works really well too, But I try to stay away from wd40, it stripps the oils from the metal and actually premotes rust.

yeah this stuff is called kroil or something, I definitely wouldn't use wd40, supposedly there is an oil based version called wd49 or something like that.

Kroil info:

http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/005279.php

Glad to see she's coming along

Thank you sir! I am taking the fuel pump thing slow, I don't want to muck up anything

So small update. Got a aluminum rad yesterday put her in with stock fan, unfortunately it is hitting the j-pipe coupler so it doesn't seem to sit well, was only able to get one bolt in each of the brackets that hold the rad down.

I'd just mark out the area that's interfering, them pull it out and trim it out.

Then you'll be able to tighten all the bolts

yeah i was thinking that too. those supports that are on the outside of the shroud i will cut off. I haven't put coolant back in so I think I will pull it today and then trim and try again.

Alright done! Took it back off, die grinded off the support piece and she slided in nicer. Still needed some muscle motivation to get both bolts on but at least it was doable this time.

My temperatures on the trip home from the invasion were up around 215, so I am hoping that this aluminum rad will cool it down. Also planning on putting in a slim fan on the A/C side.

A new rad with two good fans will definitely help, but on the highway my temps are always very high because even in 5th gear it sits at a high RPM and, especially with the 14b, it's always on the verge of boost (we're talking ~125km/h).

But, I can happily say in stop and go traffic and any other driving than highway driving I never have heat issues anymore, unless I'm into boost a lot. But for *normal* driving, you should be more than golden.

Next for me is to start doing ductwork for the rad.

I want to section off my intake or put the intake in the bumper, but I don't have a splash gaurd yet so until that happens it stays where it is.

Duct work is definitely the way to go, unfortunately I don't have the patience to do that sh!t.

I forgot to upload a picture of my current intake setup, so here she is!

So today I started off the day not feeling so hot so I took the day off, when I felt better in the after noon I got some work done for the car (it's not on the car yet). First thing was last week I put my new to me fuel sending unit in a nice evaporust bath and let it sit in there for two days. Brushed it to get some of the left over rust and got it to look like this.

Today I spent the after noon drilling for the bulk head fitting and then painting and putting the pump in. I enjoy painting stuff with bed liner because it does a good job at keeping out moisture and it looks pretty good. I also cut some line for the fuel filter to the rail but I will wait till that is in to take pictures. Here is the finished sending unit.

Geeze, I guess that stuff really works, eh? Looks beauty. I always figured it was some kind of bs marketing pitch.

Wow looks amazing! My car will definitely enjoy the evaporust bath

It does a nice job but loses its effectiveness REALLY quickly.

What you really want (and what they dip cars in, etc.) is phosphoric acid, as it eats all the rust AND leaves a layer of protection against the rust (many other acids just eat the rust and leave bare metal).

On a side note, are you sure that sick feeling wasn't your mind playing tricks on you to get that new fuel system in?

Looks good!

leave the bed liner for truck beds. They are designed to keep the factory primer and paint unscratched, but wont seal bare metal. What you want is a good epoxy primer or etching primer. then you can throw your beloved bed liner at is or some paint.

Thanks guys, yeah it definitely is some good stuff.

hahaha, ya solomon, it may just have been. I was very happy with my progress today, the plan is to finish everything up after work tomorrow.

I have to disagree with you Stephen. I have had some rush that I took a wire wheel to. Latter that year I was cleaning up a larger area around that location and the bed liner was untouched by the wire-wheel while the rest of the paint was coming off with ease. Plus I am lazy and don't have patients for priming then painting.

Looks great! I'm glad to see it works. I should pick some up! Crappy?

Yes sir!

Well replacing fuel lines is fun. I just finished going through the lines and have cut it in two places, right before the tank and close as I could to the front of the car. I still need to figure out how I am going to get the hard line at the front out. I would still be going but I took a bath in some 91 and it was burning some. Here is the picture of the sending unit that is coming out, only two studs made it the rest I had to grind off.

Alright Homies she is all done! It's weird being able to hear your fuel pump when you are sitting at idle but she is definitely working well! Thanks to David for helping me with the new studs and huge thanks to Alex that helped me get to actually run, and everyone who contributed when I was trying to figure out the issue. Also can't forget Ziggy, who made sure I had everything I needed for this.
Here are the pictures of how she looks now.

Looks good, brother!

I was just in that car with Ryan doing pulls. What a difference with new fuel lines and pump. At 14psi I was very impressed. The car is defiantly old but does the job well and has a lot of potential. Bryan continue doing your build and make sure to get winter beater to keep her warm and dry during build season. Yah, I am looking to replace my DD Gst with Suzuki XL7

Thanks Alex! Winter is too fun to store her in the garage!

Alright yall, now for the big update update that I have kept very secret.
When I bought the car the headliner was in terrible condition, it was falling down and the dude had put push pins into it just to hold it up, at first I thought, ya cool it looks like a pillow but over the past year it has been a pain. Here is what she looked like just under 5 hours ago after removing all the push pins.


So last week I went shopping to pick out the material I wanted to use for my headliner, felt or fleece was what I heard was the best to use so that's what I searched for. Went through everything trying to find a colour that I liked, eventually ended up with black, then started asking myself whether I should go with a cool design. Spoke with the sales person that worked there and after a bit found out she had a sick fabric stashed in the back (the ones that were on the floor were not to my liking). As soon as she brought it out I knew that was what I wanted to do. So Terry and I went to work today to put it all together. As you can probably tell from all my babbling I was pretty pumped about doing this and am extremely happy with the result, so without further ado.


Just as a side note, visor will be done soon and I will post pictures soon with them finished.

Absolutely one of a kind, turned out great but that picture still doesn't do justice.

Looks great Bryan! My buddies would stare at that forever considering they are dc/marvel fanatics. I'll be doing mine soon, so might ask for some pointers

one of a kind, thats for sure......

That totally rocks, Bryan!!

That looks awesome. I'm definitely stealing your idea (different picture of course )

This ties into what Bryan and I were talking about earlier, I encourage anyone who is interested in changing up their tired old carpet to visit www.stockinteriors.com . fit and carpet quality along with price cannot be rivaled, they offer tones of colors and a bunch of different options like sound deadening and to keep or delete the plastic floor pads. enjoy

Whoa sick man! Is it glowing?

Thanks for all the kind words guys!! I do agree with Terry though, you will all need to see it in person.

Hahaha, Michael it is not, I had the work light on to light it up.

Thanks for the link Terry, stuff looks like some good quality!

awesome, can't wait to see it in person

Holy cow, what a coincidence! I've got a pair or pajamas with that exact same pattern! What are the odds!

Haha Paul, might just do the same with the left over material

Alright so Terry, Alex and my self finished up last night, and here are the results.



Terry and I both feel we have learned a lot from this experience and that the results have turned out so well that we will offer this as a service. You provide us with what ever material you want as your headliner and we will redo the headliner and visors for you. As soon as we decide on pricing we will create a post in the advertising section.

Excellent work and good idea!

Thanks Ziggy!

bloody cool that will make a lot of kids love cars for sure!!
You did an amazing job at lining up the visors the attention to detail is unreal

Great idea to offer it as a service.

Payment in cigarettes and booze right?

Hahaha, one business at a time. I do neither so I would have to start another business selling them!!

Thanks Jason! Yeah I took a good amount of time, and was very anal while doing the visors last night.

only in Brampton. Hahaha

You don't drink? You're missing out...on lots of problems! Haha

Hahaha, I have been Buddhist for a long time. In first year I started drinking again, got ridiculously retarded making the next few days terrible. Since then I have an occasional drink.

That is awesome! haha!!
Excellent job lining up the sunvisor fabric!

Looks amazing. May get you guys to do this for me.

What size fabric does one need to do this?

Thanks!! I got 2 meters, but if you are just doing a plain colour with no pattern that I have to match you could do with 1.5 meters.

I'd be getting a patterned fabric. What material did you end up going with? It's damn hard to find patterns I want in fleece or felt.

What width is the fabric?

I appreciate the positive comments. On a related note it took me a bunch of smokes to endure the 4 or so to do the headliner and another 4 to finishing the visors so I might be willing to work for cigarettes

I am not sure what the width is, all the fabric rolls at fabric land are the same width and are all doubled, so that after they cut it you can open it up. If you can't find that measurement than add a 2 feet to the width of your headliner width, using the tabs as your guide(they are the widest points) or use the top of your door as your guide. Sorry almost forgot, fleece or felt is the way to go, fleece is what mine is.

As most of you probably saw, I took the tow truck home on saturday. Anyways finally cracked her open today cause purolator was supposed to come, still haven't showed up, so I could replace my crank pulley. Thing is I didn't realize how bad it was till I saw the following.



I have since cleaned out the area and am awaiting the the parts I need. I will probably replace the lower timing cover at a later date, but because this was unexpected It won't be done anytime soon. Plus the crank pulley will be covering everything that is exposed.

What an ugly reminder that some parts just were not made to last.

Nice that the more important stuff stayed together!
I'd do the cover before driving in any sort of gunk.

Yeah will probably redo the cover before winter comes.

So I replaced my bumper support, my hands are pretty rough looking now but she is all back together. Also Terry blacked out my center section, I think it looks pretty good!

Looks awesome! I like that night shade on the center piece Terry did for you. I am planning on shading my tail lights with 3 coats plus 2 of clear coats.

Nice!

Do i spy a xfer case on the left??

BTW, if you need a hand let me know... being unemployed sucks and leaves me lots of time.

BTW, any other damage with the CP separating?

looks like a trouble light

LOL yeah it is a trouble light, which I keep dropping which keeps destroying the bulbs.

Yeah for sure, it's been a long time!

No just the lower timing cover getting chewed and the belt getting shredded.

Trouble lights are for chumps. I use a head lamp

Have been considering one of those florescent lights you clip on under the hood though. Any thoughts?

Not sure what you mean, show pics!

I do think a head lamp is a great idea, I need to get one!

i use; old school trouble light when it's needed, a LED 3AA battery powered magnetic/hook light that works great for inside the car, flourecsent Tlight in place of the incandescent bulb which heats up QUITE a bit, and sometimes i singe a few knuckle hairs..i burn easy, so LED ad FLO are the way to go haha

yeah I am switching to florescent for the trouble light, i like to burn myself too. It's not the pain for me though, it's the shock, and I get super frustrated after the first few times (might be why i go through bulbs so fast :P).

http://toolmonger.com/2009/04/02/under-hood-work-light/
spoken about here



Clipped on to the hood.

HM, i wonder where to find one. I don't like the cigarette lighter part but everything else sounds wonderful!

NAPA! the cigarrette adaptor just charges it. they run without an A/C source for hours. I have 1 myself. They also double for a Lightsabre you just have to make the noise or have an App for it.

Well if that isn't a key selling point then I don't know what is!

But yes, they look wonderful! Does your head get in the way often?

I don't use the grab bar much. But when you lay it across where you want to see it works awesome. I really don't like stuff touching my paint(if you ask anyone who has seen my 1gb they could tell you) I think i paid about $100 for it but was a couple years ago.

Even with those giant rubber pads on it?

I am kinda anal about my Talon. I am sure it probably might not scratch it. But I chose not to use it.

I guess your head could get in the way but it throws alot of light.

Yeah lightsabre!! I need to make a trip to princess in the next little while, hopefully I can find one there.

Hey Kids, so I haven't been doing anything much lately that was really worth while posting here. Today after throwing on my winters terry and I put in my 1000s. The car seemed to like them and ran well. The only issue I was having was starting the car from warm, car would run like a bag of sh!t, and the throttle response was complete garbage and pushing gas would also cause the car to stall as well.

Did you figure out the issue?

No idea, as soon as the car warms up full she is fine. I did a log and then the sd vd adjust and put the car to sleep for tonight.

Weird. Well good luck with that Bryan I really miss my talon lol

Haha, well hopefully next year you will actually have an awd dsm and that way you can have the full experience!!

Yup that's the plan

So I am now gathering everything I need to do the welding of my body panels. I was originally planning to have someone else handle, but instead of doing what I have usually done I decided I would do it the first time. Alex was kind enough to lend me his welder, thanks again Alex, and just need to grab some more bed liner and sheet metal. Here is me practicing on some scrap metal I found in the garage, don't worry it was from a 1990 cruise control box. Just pay attention to the bottom right weld and the t-weld of the piece at the top, let me know what you think!!

nice welds.. what are you using for a welder? And remember if theres any rust hiding in the metal your trying to weld.... it will find it.

I was gonna give you a link but can't find it. I am using a mig/flux core welder from CT. What do you mean by that!?

just make sure you clean the spots your gonna weld.. no paint.. or bondo. and remove all the rust you can see. and dont weld close to a area that was rusty. give yourself lots af clean solid metal to weld to. Rust sparks and explodes when welded. And dosnt weld very well.

Ok good to know, my plan is to clean the metal and then cut a square in the car then weld in the new piece.

So I have decided to take a new direction with the car.
I now realize that the talon will never be a great road course car so I have decided to go the rally route.
I am already in the process of picking up some Hella Lights
I will also start looking for a Rally Spec coilover setup, I have heard good things about hotbits and am leaning towards them.
Shortly after I will probably ditch my 18s for some 16s.
After that we shall see where we go.

As for the welding progress I will be cutting out the patch next week and welding in the new one. Just need a few more things and I will be good to go.

Me likee! That's what I want to do to a 1g later in the future. I'll keep checking this if that's the route you go.

Well that sounds fun!

I have been talking to Richard Fender and he has been helping me with idea and what his setup is like.

So last night I was planning to drop the battery down onto the subframe. I removed the charcoal canister and all that other junk down there and came to find that the battery is too big, so it's back on it's tray for now until I either a)get a smaller batter or b) move it to the trunk. Not sure which option I will choose.

Thanks Reza for the picture and tips for getting this done.

Go with the Odyssey and avoid the extra work routing new wire through the cabin.

Ok the one thing I am worried about with a small battery is that my car sits a lot. Is this going to be an issue?

The Odyssey is alegend among batteries, every now and then throw it on a trickle charger when you know its going to sit and never worry about it

Is this the one I should be looking at?
https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=17750&cat=1915&page=1

Ok how long do you think the car can sit without needing a charge. The car is usually doesn't sit for more than a week.

Yup that or the PC680 if your looking for more weight savings. I dont kno whow power hungry our cars are on start up. If I was buying and had any concerns about battery life I woul dgo with the larger unit for that added level of comfort.
I have been tempted to add the pc680 for winter time but my car did well with the Hatch mounted system this year even with only 4 gauge run front to back

Ok good to know, I will weigh the costs and the work, looks like the Odyssey is the winner right now.

That's another question I needed to ask.
For the 1g hatch struts what are yours like (or any other 1g guys). Mine since day one I have to push the hatch up and then when they are fully open they will hold the hatch open.

I've got a piece of wood to hold my hatch up, as do most 1G owners. Although new hatch struts are ~$35 if I recall correctly.


Also, how were you planning on mounting the battery to the subframe?

LOL, I am just trying to figure out if the struts are supposed help me lift it or just hold it up.

J hook and tapping that piece of the car that bulges out a little inside the engine bay.

Maybe in the FSM it specifies CCA for the OE battery and you can determine which Odyssey is the right one for you.

With my car, I replaced my hatch struts last summer (RTM) and as soon as you get about 3-4 inches up from the latch, it goes up on it's own and stays up. There isn't any "locking" position that I'm aware of in a 2g.

RTM's were I think $20-$40 for the pair. No brainer! lol

Yeah I definitely need new ones, these ones suck and were bad yesterday.
I would assume temperature shouldn't have that much of an effect on them.

Actually, in the winter time I used the hatch area to store parts and such and the car was parked in my (non-heated) garage. I could DEFINITELY tell they struggled to open the hatch when it was below ZERO.

Yup. They're gas-charged struts; they can put out more pressure when they're warm.

Oh interesting that's good to know.

When a strut is new it will open the hatch up all the way. As it ages it loses some gas charge and you'll need to lift. My experience is that you get 2 years of a full gas charge, then you have to lift for another 2 years before you need the wooden prop.

Don't be a redneck Salomon, get those struts replaced!!

I'd rather spend the money on making the car perform better in meaningful ways.

Student Budget!

In the winter time I have to lift my hatch open, it will slowly open but I dont have a day to waste waiting for it

Yeah mine won't even do that I have to force mine half way and then I can finally relax as it will slowly do the second half for me.
I am creating a list for Ziggy for when he get's back!

Bryan, as long as the struts hold the hatch up you're still good. But I always have a new set ready for when they are needed so getting some now is a a good idea.

Just don't buy the Monroe brand if you come across them. You'll need to grind off the lower mounting bracket of your current struts to reuse with the Monroe's. Every other brand I've tried came with new brackets.

It's a ridiculous struggle to get it the first half, I will just grab new ones this order and keep these as spares.
Noted on the Monroe's, that a pain!

Because I love my tunes and know I should be wearing hearing protection I have combined the two.
Below is all the parts I needed (Thanks to Alex for the headphones)
I removed the speakers from Alex's headphones and pulled the wires off.
I had some headphone wire left over from some sony's I ripped apart to add a mic to, so used that for my wires.
Used the ear muffs I picked up from princess (they are not that great because they have a hole so they can pivot 360, which ends up letting some sound in.
Tools:
-Soldering Iron
-Hot Glue gun
-Lighter
-Stripper (not the woman kind, or the man kind for that matter)
-Drill the same size as the wire going into the muffs

Wow I need to try it out! With my stupid 5 gallon air compressor (the motor never stops pumping while I do sandblasting) those may come handy

You can have the other headphones back if you want. I only used these ones.

nah its okay. Too many other things on my plate to do

Bring by some ear muffs and I will do it for you.
And some headphone wire too.

Bryan, have you done the welding work yet? Want to see some pics.

Everytime I go to do it something has come up. My plan is to do it tomorrow, I am pretty sure my day is free, I will take pics before and during and after if I can.

What helmet did you grab? I just grabbed the CTC special 2 week ago haven't used it yet.

I ended up grabbing the black one from princess when it was on sale.
My original plan was to grab the blue and white one from CTC but got tired of waiting.

Yeah I got the blue and white one. $79.

Yeah that one is really nice, how do you like it?

Don't know yet, nothing to weld.

Hahaha, I haven't welded anything useful.
Just been goofing around with spare metal I have in the garage.

Sorry boys, I was trimming up the piece and finished my oil change and then got a call and never got back to it.

I may finish on Sunday, if not then Monday for sure.

Alright kids, finally did it.
I am too tired right now to give a long write up so here are pictures through progression of the night.
The last picture is after a coat of rust converter and two coats of bed liner.

Also I can confirm what Mr. Stacey said, rust definitely explodes when you try to weld it.

Hmmm... I like your style. I may have to borrow your services at some point in the future.

That's not the only service you can borrow

*ahem, cough.
(not on the board bryan.....)

Haha, just let me know when I can help!

My rear rocker panels are in desperate need of some lovin. You give me a time, I'll bring the beers and the bucks!

Ok cool sounds good, I need to figure out my jack situation first. I need to do my rockers too but currently the car doesn't get that high off the ground, making it a pain!

Make it cider and you got a deal!

All buttoned back up thank to some assistance from Mr Sikora

Well done! Looks great. =)

Well done! Looks great. =)

Any time. Thanks for the book.

wow, awesome! I need to see it close!!!

Thanks guys!!

Amazing Bryan!

The black is POR15?

Thanks Mike! After hearing what Terry has/had to go through to use POR15 I don't have the patience for it.
I used CTC rust converter, then two coats of CTC Bed Liner.

Just picked this bitch up so now I should be able to actually get under my car when I jack it up.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoTools/LiftingEquipment/PRDOVR~0091054P/Cric+de+garage+Michelin,+3+1%2B2+tonnes.jsp?locale=en

I've been eyeballing the low profile one for a while. Driving up on 2x4s to fit a jack under there gets old really fast....

I was thinking about building a ramp out of 2x6s but I would probably just end up always parking my car on them cause I wouldn't want to have to move them.
The cost for this one is good, should definitely be low enough to get under the car, and it only lifts 2 inches lower than the low profile one.

Tested it out last night! I am loving it. The thing fits perfectly under the bumper and right under the jack point and it lifts the car well over my waist height!!

Very nice!

So lots of big work this past week.
I finally got my catch can that I was itching for and with that I ordered a smaller batter so enough chat, here are the pictures.

Thats SO much cleaner then before. nice work

+1 great work man. Definitely something to show next time we meet

Dipped the rims today with Terry, will take another picture after I put them on.

wow looks realy good!

So I painted my rims and just finished putting them on after I lubed up the slider.

Looks like a proper rally car

Haha, yeah she is getting there!

yoi have skirts right? if not I have some.

Are you sticking with the skirtless look?

Haha, should this be the first question.
Yes I have skirts, I will probably not put them on.
They aren't on right now because I have some work to do down there but I like the look so probably keep it that way.

What size wheels are those bryan?

225 45 18

I didnt realize I posted that first post.... I know I thought it in my head.. didnt think it made it to the screen! I work to much.

That's the first time I've ever seen a wheel with an aspect ratio

18*7 I'm assuming? Maybe 7.5? What offset?

haha my bad, need to work on knowing the difference between wheel and tire.

I will have to check the width, I actually think they are 18*8.
No idea what the offset is, I have been trying to figure that out for a while now.

So just did measurements and they are 18*9 with 38.1 offset

You're running a 225 on a 9" wide rim? Seems like it would be stretched...I run 225's comfortably on a 7.5" rim.

Also, I've only ever seen offsets in integer values, except for custom wheels. Perhaps +38? Are there no markings on the rim anywhere? Almost all rims (real or 'fake') typically have stampings/markings dictating some of the specs. Usually on the barrel and/or on the face that mounts to the hub.

I never checked before I put them back on.

My tires are definitely stretched, but not ridiculously.

Yeah most likely +38, I did the calculations on my own.
I think I actually do recall markings on the face, but will need to check. If I can't actually find them on the barrel than it will probably take me a while to check the face.

Where are you measuring? Cause mine are 8s but if you dont measure in the right spot.. they will measure as a 9 inch rim.

Tires look stretched on those rim. The curb bumper of those tires looks even with the rim and your sidewall should always be atleast even with the rim.

yeah the curb bumper is about a quarter inch out from the rim, but the rest of the tire angles inwards.
I just put those tires on last year, when it comes time to change them again I will probably be looking at new rims and tires.


Jay, how is that possible?

My 215/40 17s dont over hang my rim at all. not even close. and I have a 8 inch rim. Says 17x8 on the rim. When I measure the out side edge of the rim.. it measures 9 inches.. but the tire bead is only 8.

now I got you, yeah no way for me to measure the tire bead, at least not now.
I will have to take a few more looks on the rim and see if I can find the measurement.

Mind taking a picture of you tire?

Tomorrow but I should have some pics on my post somewhere.

There's going to be a stamp in the casting of the hub on the inside of the rim. Or, you will see the stamp's on the spokes.

That will verify your size.

What's the stock size of a 1g awd dsm rim and tire?

My guess, 16x7 5x114 +38 205/50/16 ??? Do I win a cookie?

Nope. 205 55 16. 16x6.5. 5x114.3.

Aww well then..


The rim and tire calculator indicates a difference of 0.2" inches in height.

So the speedo will register a little tardy. But only by 1 or 2 km/h.

Bryan, are you still on your OE shocks?

KYB AGX are on there, I think the springs are upgraded but I still look like I am at stock height.
I am now trying to bring down my cost on my suspension upgrade but everything I have seen is progressive, which is not helpful when it comes to rally.

Do we know what the stock offset is?

This is what the numbers will look like.. These are my old rims

These are the side walls on the 7 inch rims..215/50

This is my 215/40 on a 17x8 rim.

with an 8" wide rim on a 2g, you can run a 245mm wide tire and have 2mm clearance at the fender and 7mm clearance at the knuckle using a +40mm offset. Optimum size for lateral performance.

I don't know specs for a 1g but that's the info on a 2g.

Jay, my tire looks a lot like you second one there.
I will see if I can find the stamping.

Mike, that sounds like it would be doable for a 1g as well, I will have to double check but I am pretty sure I have the space.

Sorry I got that backwards. On a 2g it's a 2mm at the knuckle and 7mm at the fender.

Based on this chart;



Unfortunately, for 1g, no one has come up with these specs. Only found these threads;

- http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/fre.../286685-will-these-wheels-tires-fit.html

- http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...s-size-questions-merged-fit-fitment.html

Nice reference, I will check what clearance I have with my tires and see how close the measurement are to what you have there.

So the thing that might make it difficult to compare is my car is at stock ride height, so I will have a lot more space than most of you.

Am I just suppose to use a straight edge down from the fender to measure the clearance?

It's all about clearance, not soo much the appearance.

So the measurements are based on the inner lip of the rear quarter panel. Not the outter.

Ever heard of "fender rolling"?

Fender rolling would not do a thing for me.. If my fenders hit my tires.. I might better get flares. Bryan.. I think you may have the same problem. But its cool Ive seen cool 1 and 2 gens with flares.

If you're rocking flares. Best to get a VERY aggressive offset to fill in the gaps. But I'd be concerned of wearing your wheel bearings too quickly by doing such a mod.

Yeah no plans for me to do any fender rolling.

My tires fit fine, I am just curious as to why the last owner decided on this configuration instead of something that fits more proper.

So Jeremy Gilbert was kind enough to help me acquire some lower control arms, I spent about 2 hours wrestling out the one that is in there now, it's still not out, and have the next one ready.
The end link was toast so that will be getting replace, it looks like someone already messed up one side as I couldn't get the wrench on it.
Here is some picture and how she is sitting right now.
I will take picture of the two arms together when I get this one out.

Also big thanks to Alex for convincing me to get propane. Big thanks to Terry for grabbing me the one in that last picture, I definitely got some use out of it today.

great job so far, it sounds like this is the 'hate' part of the 'love and hate'.

It's funny looking at it you would think that but I never got that frustrated which is good!
I did remove some skin, though I probably didn't need it

Anytime I'm working on suspension, or having to remove a bolt/nut that may result in my hand hitting something hard...I WEAR GLOVES!! like, "mechanic worx" gloves I think they're called.

Definitely saved my skin a few times!

Actually my major skin loss was on my bicep, hand slipped and bicep went straight into the caliper.
I will definitely be wearing gloves and long shirt when I finish tomorrow.
It was really hot so I was only in my boxers

Good luck hammering that ball join off. Hopefully she runs steady with fresh parts

Thanks again Alex!

Thank you again Alex for the 5lb Club, came off real easy today after applied some heat. Here is some pictures of the one coming off and the one going on. Also thanks again to Jeremy for getting me the control arms for a good price!
Unfortunately it seems that Purolator is sleeping and my package never left Niagara, so hopefully they get there ass in gear and I can get my car back on the road tomorrow.

great work Bryan!

Not a problem bud! I'm glad we finally got you a good set.

She's coming along very nicely!

Thanks, yeah I will be putting everything back together today as soon as work is done.
I can put the end link when it gets here, no point it waiting for it to show up.

All lower control arms are finished with the new end link on there.

I decided I wanted to put stock suspension back on so I was planning to do all four corners today but it seems I don't have a 16mm socket in any of my sets. So I only got a chance to get the front done.

I also decided I wanted to clean up my headlight plugs, I had destroyed them to fit them over h4 bulbs, one I only broke out the one that I needed and the other I totally destroyed leaving only the connections wrapped in electrical tape. Here is what I ended up with.

Shrink wraps ...nice
I have socket you need

And by plugs I meant sockets

So I went to do my rear struts yesterday and when attempting to do the passenger side I realized that it was a 16mm, which I learned today is not the correct side. Today I started with the driver side which came off no problems, 17mm socket took off the bottom bolts real easy.

Now for the passenger side, this fracking retard put a 16mm nut with double the thread spacing in that hole, I have no idea how you could frack this up but as you can probable tell this is a hate moment. I have no idea how you can't tell when you are crossing threading a bolt or how you can't visually tell the difference between the two threads.
Any ways both rear struts are on and the passenger side was replaced with the correct bolt.

The deeper you dig into your project the more stupid, butchered sh*t you find from the previous owners.

Good on ya!

That solder/shrink tube work is lookin mighty professional.

I had a good teacher

Pretty good work man. And fyi 16mm is pretty much 5/8's just incase you run into anymore shadetree repairs on your car. Probably that bolt was SAE instead of metric. Did the head have any markings like 8.8 or just some funny lines on it?

Funny enough, the only thing I could find was my flare nut wrench that was 5/8, the thing was so tight that I just ended up using the vise grips with lots of heat though.
Not sure if it had 8.8 or anything like that, what does that mean?

The numbers or symbols indicate the grade of the bolt. The higher the grade, the higher the strength of the bolt.

Metric bolts use numbers, SAE bolts use lines/symbols.

Here are some examples:

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/steel-bolts-sae-grades-d_1426.html

Oh ok, I have only seen whole numbers that's why I was confused by the 8.8
Thanks for the charts, good to know for the future, I always stick to metric.

After looking at the chart it was definite SAE, I remember the symbols.

Pretty sure 8.8 is a metric grade, and pretty much the standard grade for industrial bolts. 10.9 are higher strength bolts.

Its coming along well Bryan. It will never cease to amaze you what some idiots will do to get through a repair on their cars. Makes you wonder but it is what it is. Once you do it right things all come together better and the end results are worth it for sure!

Its coming along well Bryan. It will never cease to amaze you what some idiots will do to get through a repair on their cars. Makes you wonder but it is what it is. Once you do it right things all come together better and the end results are worth it for sure!

Haha that's for sure and that's definitely the moto I have been sticking with.

The only thing I haven't really spent the time or money to do well is the body work, but I think it's looking ok, and I am happy with the look that the car has.

So I know I haven't updated this in a long time and it's mainly because I have been spending time tuning and just enjoying the car.
When we went on our cruise I had learned that pieces of my car that I had "fixed" ie cleaned runs and tin taped, were now falling off. I have spent the summer trying to figure out how to go about fixing it and after listening to a lot of opinions I decided I would pick up a mig welder so I can conquer my rocker pannels properly. I did a few test passes and now understand why people kept telling me to spend the money and get a known company.



Also thanks to all of those that had given me advice on this!

Sweet!

Sweet unit. Same one i have. Open up the side case and clothes pin a rag to the wire right before it goes into the gun shelthing. It will keep the wire clean and moving freely.

Congrats Bryan, can wait to see what you get out of it

Thanks boys! Good to know Stephen, will make sure I grab a clothes pin next time I am at the rents.

You will also want to con Terry into running you a dedicated 20 amp receptical in your garage if you are goingto use it on anything thick or you will be running to your panel to your everytime you strike an arc.

Terry was already kind enough to wire up my garage so I have enough plugs, this will mostly be for body panel stuff so I should be ok with the 15amp.

Bryan and I foresaw a welder/compressor in his future so we ran a dedicated 15amp/GFCI circuit. Bryan...if the welder trips the breaker even once (as it might) we can easily upgrade you to a 12 or 10 AWG line good enough for what ever you can throw at it.

Let me know how it goes.

Thats good planning. It should be ok on a 15amp for just body metal.

Ok cool!! Thanks again Terry will keep you updated!

Yeah that's what I figure, so we shall see.

Nice acquisition Bryan!

I'd also eventually like to shop for one..maybe next season though.

If you hone your skills, you can give me pointers

haha, would love too.

going to go through the flux core roll then start looking at bottle prices and where I can refill.

Oh it's gas too?

EVEN BETTER!

Umm, can I ask how much you paid for it? Did you "redflag" it? lol

Haha, well I stayed on top of redflag but actually found it in the flyer.
It was $499 before tax $556 after. I did a bunch of searches online and everyone was saying $500 for this welder is great!
Also found one on kijiji for $550 and figured would rather drive down the street than drive to Mississauga and deal with some rando.
I told myself if it went on sale for $500 that I would pick it up, and I did

Oh also it comes with the regulator which is huge savings cause they go for $100 plus

You will like it much better once you run gas. Flux core is ok, But gas is way more gooder.

Haha, that's what I have heard, plus it will be nice to be able to run a bead when doing body panels.

Gas will work FAR better on body panels, flux core burns to hot for thin material.

This is the 140 or 180?

it's the 140, I decided if I wanted to get a 220v machine that I would be looking at a tig welder.

yeah that would be nice, body panels is a slow process with flux.

Ya, I'm looking into a Longevity Tig 200SX in the near future, lots of nice things said about it.

That thing looks nice!

Well kids I got started today!!
Jeremy was kind enough to drop by with my Jerky and take a look at the progress.
He also never commented on the fact that I was wearing uggs (girlfriend through them out, so they were perfect for keeping my feet warm and not caring what happens to them)
Any ways here are the pictures, first two is after removing all the tin tape, second two is after cutting out the rust.

Youza! well you definitely have some work ahead of ya Glad to see things progressing though, I'll need to borrow a page from your book and get my ass in gear for mine!

Wow! Good luck man.

Thanks guys.
Yeah Gui, just got my motivation back today. Going to finish then then do the coolant system then the brakes.

I all ready have the patch done, so tomorrow I will spend some time cleaning the pain off that area and then welding it in.
I have no idea what I am going to do with all the rust sh!t inside there, probably end up just blowing it all out and then spray a sh!t load of rust converter in there.

Now thats dedication!

Progress for today. I totally forgot to take care of all the sh!t underneath so I guess I will just leave it.
Will be painting it tomorrow. Frustrating part was while I was massaging the metal in at a part some holes start flaking off further down the rocker panel

So you welded in a rusty piece of metal?

Yeah it's just surface rust, it was sitting in the garage for a little too long. It will be all cleaned off before it gets painted.

So it turns out I haven't been using enough RTV, this is what my family mechanic did when he installed my thermostat (back when I didn't do stuff on my car).
Also he is no longer a family mechanic.
On top of that he also installed the wrong thermostat, a 180* even though I recall telling him to install a 190*.

Almost forgot to add pics of the finished work. I am not trying to make the car pretty which is why I: 1)Lap welded the panel on 2)Didn't complete the grinding totally.



And a picture of our little reindeer

Nice work Bryan...slowly but surely

I wish my dog would let me put reindeer antlers on her she'd chew them up in a few seconds flat lol

LOL he was trying at first and then we distracted him and he forgot about them.
They didn't stay on for very long though.

Not bad man. Id rock that. turned out better than mine. Mine need re done.

Well done, looks a million times better than before!

Good job Bryan. Invest in some por15

Great progress

Maybe we can plasti dip the entire car this spring?

Thanks Guys!!

Haha well that's not hard to do.

Unless por15 is more cost effective than the cans of bedliner I have been using, I won't be considering it.
Plus if I actually do decide to paint the car eventually, the por15 would be a much bigger bitch to remove.

We shall see about dipping, right now I am thinking not, but maybe by spring my decision will change.
It would be another thing I could add to the list of "Things the Talon has taught me"

Mike what were you welding? any pictures?

Good work bro! Nice to see metal added, rather than flaking off to a dust on our fine Ontario roads.

Welding skills are progressing nicely I see!

BUT you really should wash your car lol

Where do you buy por15?

Thanks you sir! There was a huge pile of sh!t after I was done.

LOL, maybe it will actually get a wash this winter, but only the parts with the salt on it

Stacey, so far they have been getting it directly from the guys that make it.

Fine?

I feel bad about all the stuff my DSM's have left on the road. Engine mount bolt, engine mount chunks, bolts that fell and got lost, etc..

Sandra left her gas cap somewhere on the road today!

Only thing I've left is the 10mm socket I lost years ago in the subframe. Could still be there. Afterall, I found a bunch of goodies when I first took my car apart.

LOL I take it you haven't driven in Quebec lately?? Steer clear of their bridges hahaha

Oh and btw Bryan, your pup looks cute! Well taken care of too..I just read an article about a Pomeranian breeder in Ottawa who starved 4 pups in her basement. She's been charged!

Your DSM can haul those 7 ton pieces no?

Thanks man, we just realized that the recommended food on the bag is causing us to under feed him cause he hasn't gained a pound in a week. We are upping his food now and hopefully he can get bigger.

Ottawa doesn't seem to be doing to well lately with it's dog stories.
Did you heard about the black lab that got attacked by it's owner, beat with a rake and tossed in the dumpster. She is fine now but wasn't in good condition at all.

Throw some 1ga side skirts on there

I actually have some in the garage but there is a good chance that they will stay there, I have welded over a lot of the holes needed to mount them

Alright so a quick update.
As most have you have seen I have been struggling with my tuning. I am rebuilding a spare throttle body and then going to swap that in and try again tuning my car again after it's been replaced.
Will post up pictures soon of it apart as it is right now and some pictures after it's back together.
Thanks to Terry for the spare throttle bodies, thanks Gui for the sandblaster and thanks snowboarder on tuners for the full throttle rebuild kit.

Alright so I will be finishing up tonight.
I am going to grab some red loctite for the throttle plate screws, any other tips?
Quick question though, I have two types of BISS screws, one is plastic like and one is metal, does it matter?
Also here is before and after cleanup.

Looks good Bryan. Any plans to coat it with paint or powder?
Defiantly a good idea to use loctite and proper screwdriver so you don't strip them during the procedure. They need to be tight

Haha, you missed the comment, it's Gui's blaster
No I won't be coating it, will be leaving it as is, unless I find something nice and easy while looking for loctite.

used to be mine glad its still being used

Hehe, like you Alex, if I'm not using it, I'm more than happy to lend it to someone who will. Thanks a bunch again for it , makes scale car modelling/tuning a breeze for paint!

Brian, it looks nice! In terms of finish, why not just get an aluminum polish, just make it nice and shiny. Paint flakes, shine lasts.

Just make sure you flush the crap out of it before you reinstall it. Just in case there is any blast media left in it.

Well I already blew it with air a lot, I will do some extra flushing before I put it together.
Not sure I will be doing that tonight as I just got home, I have the loctite though so I am ready to go with everything.

Gui I thought about doing the polishing thing but after trying it I gave up, there are too many nooks and crannies that are a bitch to get to.
I will be soda blasting the next one so we will see how different that turns out.

I know you're not coating it, but I would actually suggest baking it in an oven for about an hour, media gets stuck in the oil/crud that's inside. Baking it burns off the oil and then when you blow it out, any remaining media simply blows away. Just don't use the oven in your house

LOL, I would have used the oven in my house
What do you suggest, is it the fumes I need to worry about? Maybe I can sneak the toaster oven into the garage for a little bit.

You could also just soak it in a carb cleaner solution. The oven idea is good also. But i dont think fiav would enjoy that

You'd be surprised how much smoke will come out of one of these.

I usually pop the freeze plug out of the fiav and close it, so it's not an issue for coating. I guess in Bryan's case with him winter driving the car, brake cleaner would be an easier option.

Not to mention the toaster oven would not really be suitable for food after, unless you like the taste of oil

LOL brake cleaner it is!! Haha

Any thoughts on the plastic biss screw vs the metal one?

I wouldn't see any issue with it, it's not going to see severe temperatures or pressure. Just make sure the threads are good and clean so they don't get galled up

ok cool! thanks guys!

If you are going to buy brake cleaner, are better off buying Intake cleaner it is alot better on crud then brake clean. If you already have brake cleaner you can just use that.

Ok cool, next time I am at canadian tire I will pick up intake cleaner, I have one can of brake cleaner left so figure I should use that.

I love using carb cleaner, if thats the same thing.

Yes carb and intake cleaner are the same. Unless you mean the bucket of carb cleaner that you soak it in. Thats alot more caustic. There are also top engine cleaners like GM kleans, that help clean up carbon on the pistons.

Since were talking cleaners... I was working on my intake manifold. and got shavings all in the runners and plennum. I tried brake cleaner but the shavings were stuck in the black sut and sh!t in the manifold. So i grabbed a spray can of paint stripper from Canadian Tire. Bought it to remove the coating from my valve cover. Worked perfctly.. Sprayed it into the intake manifold and used the rest of the can. Cleaned it up pretty good. Ate right thru the gunk!

When I got shavings stuck in gunk in my intake manifold I used my go to product.... Por-15 marine clean... This stuff is the strongest cleaner I have ever used next to gasoline or airplain strength paint stripper. Not to mention it's biodegradable. It can be diluted up to 10x and costs fack all. I have a feeling you guys knew that I'd say that

If you want some serious cleaner, get some B17, it makes aircraft stripper seem like baby formula, it will strip ANYTHING right down to bare metal in minutes. It's the only thing that works well to remove powder coating. Really amazing stuff but you need to take a lot of care when using it. This is what happens if it gets on your skin

Jesus...now why would you want to use "B17" as a cleaner??

sh!t man that looks painful!

Glad you like it. It can make things a bit dusty but it does the job well. Make sure you protect yourself with quality mask



Terry got me hooked on this product. It worked great for me I used it for just about everything in the garage or home.

It's designed as a stripper for powder but I guess if you just wanted your metal parts to be 100% clean of any contaminants, then there you go lol. You actually have to limit the amount of time you leave aluminum in it as it will actually eat it as well.

Well the rebuild is finished.
One note before I post completed pictures, the FIAV/ISC housing has a little screw inside that you can only see once taken apart(I thought I had a picture), this screw seems to be a bitch and gets stuff stuck inside very easily, if you are going to blast I suggest keeping the screw in there.
Anyways here are the picture all back together, just going to pick up some gasket and then throw her on.

Good job Bryan. Just make sure to test the adjustment of the opening/closing of the throttle well before putting it on the car, if it slams shut hard and jams closed while on the car, it's not so fun

Thanks Jason! Yeah I tested it a few times, it was getting stuck before but it's good now.
The one on the car sticks like a bitch if it's been sitting so I am excited to replace, plus I don't have to worry about this one getting filthy because the EGR is now blocked.

Glad to see those parts went to good use.

making good progress Bryan. Another thing to consider is adjustment of TPS. Since you are running link the adjustment should be much easier.

Yes they did for sure, thanks again Terry!!

Thanks Alex, yeah I use the auto adjust after manually doing it first.

Well here are some pictures of her installed. Will be heading out tomorrow to see how the tune is.
The ISC was reading 38 Ohms on all coils, so I assume that means it's toasted? FSM says 28-33, some internets say 20-50 is an issue.
Looks a little funny next to the filthy intake manifold, but I am very happy.
Also what's with the allen head bolts (they were in the rebuild kit)? Is there a purpose?
I had picture from higher but they all turned out shaky.

I'm not sure about the ohms, but I just am able to tell its toast when the ISC value in dsmlink changes to a min/max value but the idle stays the same. Then I take it out and watch the motor while I turn the key to the ON position. No movement=ISC flying to garbage bin.

How do you tighten that throttle body elbow bolt on the bottom there? I can just get my fingers in there, tighten it as much as I can, then leave that one.

It's a stud, I can get the box end of the wrench on it so I do that.

You guys should get these if you don't already have them..



Nice work Bryan!

Have them, those won't fit in there.

Thanks Mike!

They dont fit in most tight spaces....heads are too fat.

The studs on my spare mani came easy peezy. The stock one not so much.

Bryan did you put in new studs?

The bottom ones were fine so I left them, the stud at the top right is new and I used one of the bolts that came with the VRSF kit on the top left.

Anti seize on both so I hopefully don't have to deal with that again.

I use a 1/4" drive 12mm socket on a wobble 6" extension.

Interesting, those wobble things look neat, never seen them before.
1/4" is definitely the key though, can't get the 3/8 in there.

I modified my wrench specifically for that bolt haha

You won't get socket on a 1g with a VRSF Elbow. Well maybe with the mani to head brace.

You've never seen a wobble?????? I think my mind just

They're in almost every somewhat large socket set nowadays and they're pretty common in general, or so I thought?

They are wonderful!

Yeah I ditched the brace when I put the FMIC in.

Haha Sal, haven't bought a huge set, I have a pretty basic set and then I just grab what I need.

When I swapped to the NT 1g TB I no longer had to worry about stuff like that, I highly recommend doing the swap. I even have a line on a NT TB and NT intake manifold for you 6bolt guys if anyone is interested.

What's the difference in a NT manifold?

Im no expert on 6bolts but I'm told it flows more.

and it has a flange so you no longer need an elbow.
I think that's only the case for 2g to 1g, both 1g TBs have the same opening from what I am reading, 60mm

My bad you said manifold, no idea.

It's no issue with the punishment racing tb elbow, lots of room.

I think that way makes more sense, it's seems like it would be much smooth for airflow.

Jason that seems like a nice thing for 1gs, I just checked and the 1g elbow looks the same as the VRSF one. Never mind that seems to be just the one that Ziggy has and some other sites.
Seems to be hit and miss from what I am seeing.

Oh Jason you got tons of room. Not so much with the VRSF.....

So not much luck with the car today, she idles a pinch high for my liking and it seems I am back to the crazy low deadtime I was at before to get the STFT all together.
I will be going for a cruise tomorrow so we will see what the LTFTlo and hi look like after that.
Here is an idle log I just took.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/f526o5gtjsdwdq7/log.2014.03.11-06.elg

Did you BLT it after the install?

No, going to go and grab everything I need to make one. I seem to have misplaced my old one.

Well Service Ontario just lit a fire under my ass to get my car tuned, I have an etest this year before I can get my registration.

Easy peez. Do you have a cat?

I do have a cat! I am worried that because the car is idling at 13:1 that I won't be passing.

Tuning for emission is simple.


Did you boost leak test her then?

I built the tester but won't have a chance till monday

Ok start there. Pm me i can help you out with the tune.

Thank you sir! Will do!

Also run some seafoam stuff. Carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber will hinder the results. Clean oil, maybe even a little thicker than the usual, no boost leaks, adjust the tune. Simple stuff. As long as your cat is working, you'll pass.

Just make sure all the seafoam is out of the system before running the test, or it will cause you to fail. If you just use it to clean the intake, then it will clear out quickly.

I wouldn't add any to your fuel tank if you're running an etest soon.

I think I may do the sea-foam in the intake and in the oil, just worried a little about leaks and such and them getting worse if I run them in the oil.

Id just etest it and see what it does first. As long as your cat is good... It should be fine.

Doesn't it cost money to retest?

Yes. As of april 1st it $30 for the first test. The retest used to be $17.50. I am not sure if the are lowering that price aswell.

Get you idle tune in check first. And your blt that bitch.

A good cat will fix most emission issues that would be a concern on an idle test. My old 1g past with flying colors with 60psi in one cyclinder. And my dads old jimmy just pasted with so much oil leaking thru the valve seals that he could not see thru his back window when he started up. I dont think the slightly rich idle will fail.. The cat will even it out. But either way.. The retest is the same price.

Oh.. It was cheaper?? I know its not free.. But ive never failed a test.

It's generally best to add it to the oil close to when you need an oil change (try to get around 100km of driving, but I wouldn't leave it in more than a couple weeks). Stick with that method, and it'll clean out oil galleys but won't make your leaks worse.

what are you trying to achieve with the seafoam? Pitting it in the oil isnt gonna help the etest.

Put meth in the tank like a L and 87 octane and a new cat you'll pass

Unless you have cams. In which case, good luck.

Cams haven't gone on yet so I am ok there, Yeah I am hoping I won't have to put anything fancy in the tank to get it to pass but we shall see.

Seafoam question was just in generally and something I had been looking at.

If you wan to clean out the oil gallys.. You can pay a garage to flush the block.. Or buy something that you run in the oil... But drain the oil right away. The only time i would suggest to use seafoam... Is drop a few teaspoons into the spark plug holes enough to seep into the rings. Let it sit over night and then crank it over a few times without the plugs... Then start it up and let it smoke for a half hour. I use Marvel mystery oil myself. If you really clean you rings and valves...and keep em clean. Run water injection. It will steam everything.

BLT came out good, only leak I have is off the jpipe where it's supposed to seal to the turbo, but it's been like that since I got it from Ziggy.

Alright so it seems the car is proving to be a bitch to tune, I have reset everything that I had set before I replaced the throttle body and now I am struggling to tune it.
If you are feeling generous take a look at the link below and let me know what you think.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/714nan6i509j6fx/log.2014.03.20-04.elg

I'm certainly no tuning expert, and I don't tune with DSMLink at all, but I know that if I found a boost leak anywhere, it would be fixed before I start tuning.

I would fix the seal between your turbo and j-pipe before continuing.

Try this. I:

-Lowered your deadtime settings

-Increased the TPS that anti-lag kicks in, so you can launch it with just 2 stepping if you dont need the anti lag

-Changed your boost gauge to show knock instead of boost

You should:

-Be sure there are no boost leaks, post throttle body at very least

-Run your fans while doing the emissions test as a engine that is either too hot/cold won't do as well

-Be sure to calibrate your TPS settings if you haven't yet, and manually adjust your tps to use the software as little as possible.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/zzp95nbypa37d7w/settings.2014.03.20-01-%20Bryan.ecm

I will try Jeremy but this will be my third attempt, the bolt that is leaking seems to leak up through the the hole in the jpipe for that bolt.

Thanks Stephan, I think I may be going to get my injectors tested. Stephen was kind enough to offer up his help and these injectors have been a bitch since day 1.

If you are on speed density, any pre throttle body leaks really shouldn't be affecting your idle. WOT performance, yes, but not idle.

Ok, sounds good. Testing and cleaning them is always good. Post up another log once that's all done with if you want.

Sorry, I thought you were still on a MAF for some reason.

But you'll probably want to fix it at some point anyway..are you sure the flanges are flat?

Mine weren't. I had to flat sand every flange on my VRSF kit.

That's probably the answer right there, I will see if I can borrow a belt sander to get this stupid thing flat.

Will do Stephan, thanks!

Huge thanks to Andre for coming by today and dropping off 4 working 450s.
I was informed at 430 tonight that I would be driving so if it wasn't for him I would have been in trouble.
Hopefully this will make the tuning easier and I can finally get her going.

Let us how she behaves with 450s

Hey Bryan, can you give us more info on that?

Haha, well it won't be happening until I have the space, so another 2 years or so, but it's really up in the air.
I have no idea if I want to go with something older like a 240 or even older like a datsun or a camaro, or brand new like the frs.
We will see where my interests lie when I get there.

The car so far is doing alright, the 450s has been great so far, I need to work on my SDAirflowPerRev but haven't taken the time cause of this sh!t weather.

Wasn't VRSF supposed to fix this? I thought it was one reason to buy the kit from them.

My old SSAC kit was horrible, I had my machinist buddy fly cut the flanges flat.

Thankfully my VRSF has no flanges anymore.

Does a BLT show anything?

Yeah it shows a ton of air pissing out of the hole where one of the bolts is, it definitely makes sense though I smothered the bolt in rtv and it still leaks like crazy.

Finely motivated myself to work on replacing my rear brakes but didn't get started till late so only got the one side done. Also got to spend some time with my cousin and teach him some stuff, also learn that my uncle is a princess and won't let him touch the car. It was pretty easy to get stuff off, probably the hardest part was removing the clips and then the grinding I had to do to modify the bottom clip mount.



Also trying to figure out what I should do with the old rear brakes, I will pay them forward to anyone that needs them as cores if they like, just let me know.

Before:

After:

Now if I can get these ebrake cables out everything will be great.

Get some brakeclean or thinners and clean that gooo off the rotors. It will cause hot spots on the pads and rotors the first time you hit the brakes.

I was using brake cleaner and trying to get that sh!t off and it got thinner but never really came off.

Use brake cleaner and a non-metal brush (ie like a coarse cleaning brush, 3M/scouring pad, etc.). Also, use chlorinated brake cleaner...the non-chlorinated stuff is useless.

Regular Ctc brake cleaner and a clean rag is all it should take. Done it a million times.

Ok will try again soon, thanks guys!

Your rotors/calipers looks familiar. Did i pick those up from Jeremmy G last year? Overall looks good to me. Replacing those rubber brake lines without damaging fittings can be a pita.

vice grips was my tool of choice, pretty sure the fitting were 9mm which I don't own.
Haha yep those are the ones!

The fittings are 10mm. Maybe they rotted down 9mm. Vise grips are very useful though.

Maybe I will run some new line soon and replace those fittings, they were pretty rough looking.

If you have to use vise grips instead of a line wrench.. Id replace the lines


My vice grips sit at the bottom of my tool box. And rarely come out... TheY are EEEEEVVVIIIIIIILLLLLLL!

Yeah that will happen, just not a huge priority for me right now.

I can't wait to install my new calipers and new rotors and new stainless lines to my new hard lines and new fittings. Should be a dream

Looks good Bryan. Gonna upgrade the fronts too?

Yeah have a pair of two pots and stainless lines for those too!

What calipers you running?

You'll see

So I grabbed some nicer wiper arms, my are pretty rusty and have been bent.
These ones came off the donor and are in much better condition, only complaint is they were painted with a brush, so I am blasting and then painting them black. Here is one done and one not.


I gave the same treatment to the bar that hold the bottom of the seatbelt to the car as it was totally rusted, but I don't have any pictures, will take a picture of how it is now in a bit.

I have done that seatbar 3 times. Probably should of got it powder coated. Seem that the belt just rubs the paint off. And although mine doesnt see winter she still rusts. Maybe I will try some POR 15 on it.

I blasted it and then painted with rust converter then with bed liner. Bed liner holds up against the wire wheel so I can't imagine the seatbelt will be much of an issue.

So after spending the last few weeks being very frustrated with my a pillar cover after most of the clips broke I decided to relocate my gauges to the center console, now my a pillar cover sits nice and flush and I can still see my gauges well enough.
Thanks to Gui for coming and helping and hanging out while I did everything, and thanks for the free TB
Flash makes it look really filthy in there.

If above statement is true than you need to clean your interior & cabin

Looks okay but few things to note:
- wires are visible through vents. Can you tuck it down and hide them in dark cable wrap?
- A/F left & Boost right gauges-> gaps are too noticeable. Can you re-align so they appear flushed?

Other than great progress so far keep it coming

Looks good ----^

Yeah I agree the wires are a bitch but I think I can figure something out.
Haha yeah she needs a clean, been doing a lot of cutting and stuff so plenty of dust in the garage lately.
What do you mean by gaps? you mean how much the stick out?

best is to show it on the pic. You can see the inner area is exposed through gaps.
Can you adjust them further out?


I would also turn boost gauge counter clock-wise a bit so the text lines up between gauges.
Again, its just me. I can't justify unless its perfect like factory

I can't fix those gaps, but I think I will take a sharpie and colour that foam black, because it's that baige colour, agreed going to line them up too.

Alex, the vent thingy comes like that, with the gauges not completely to the side and a small vent on either side of the gauges.

Just did a quick google search and found this.




^ Don't do it! This will make irreversible appearance damage
Clearly your vent bezel is incomplete, possibly broken, or defective.
You would need to find a proper replacement

Where did you guys got it from?

Not broken or defective, just a different style, it may be irreversible but it will look a lot better.
LOL do you really think I am going to buy a replacement, you know me better than that.
It was a nice present from Gui, here it is.

I see it now...thanks for clearing that up.

Bryan, do you still push fan air through the upper vent?
I am assuming ducting had to be removed to accommodate for gauges and wiring.
If that is the case do you guys block the air channel to prevent hot/cold air from being spread/trapped inside the dash?

I never have, I don't have AC and in the winter it's always on defog or defog and feet.
No ducting was removed actually, just the vent that guides it.
I haven't blocked it, I am going to move the wires like you said so that air can still easily pass through there if I really want it to.

.

Looks good man!

I'd say, if you want to get rid of the wires in there, you could use felt or very small black mesh (probably the best of the two). Cut it the same as the bezel and slap it behind. Air will still go through, but you won't see anything (or at least less than presently).

Personally, I'd use those two side slits as warning LED lights (warning for boost/O2 or even a shift light if need be). Would take some work, but it would look like it's suppose to be there, be functional and look great overall with the gauges.

PS don't keep the TB....or Batman will hunt you down!

Haha I know, just busting his balls!
That's very fancy!

No hunting required, I know exactly where this 'joker' lives

I have a vent pod similar to that I am going to run as well! I really like them

Yeah I think it's going to take a little getting used to but I am already enjoying the cleaner look.

I cannot see the pic!

try right click and open image in new tab

I keep trying to click it with my left thumb..... still cant open it.

here



^^^ corrected

Still no go..... just a blue question mark. Even tried my right thumb.

now it should work...

Haha, that's weird wonder why there was so much difficulty

Nice little upgrade. The blades on the N/T seemed much stronger than mine and it seems they are cause they do a much better job at cleaning the wind shield.

You use washer fluid on that car???

haha, not very often
It took me 3 years to go through one bottle of washer fluid.

Well here is a small change I made, I liked the way it looked on terry's car so I decided to try this one out.
It's a fake HKS one from ebay, fitment, is tight and not perfect but it looks good once on. I also had to do some trimming so that it would get on.
Overall I would suggest avoiding them though, not sure if those are the ones that Jamie Loo is selling but mine looked identical.
Picture didn't look that blurry before.

My latest upgrade.
The single pot pistons I had on there where warping when they got too hot and the pads look like they weren't changed when the calipers got replaced for the safety when I got the car.
Happy with the performance so far, may give some high end pads and rotors a go next time I have to replace them.

Fresh brakes look good!

Alright so I spend today and yesterday slowly working through engine mounts.
I had picked up FWD mounts hoping that they would just go in and quickly learned that was not the case.

So far I have done the timing side, which is different so the mount that was on the car had to be swapped.
The front roll stop is the most obvious of the ones that are not interchangeable.
I heard the tranny side is different but it looks similar to me.

Why are you installing fwd mounts? You know they make awd mounts..... Install the correct fittings parts, they tend to work better.

I picked up FWD mounts for a good price, pulling the inserts then putting them in AWD mounts.

So as some of you know I have had a bitch of a time trying to tune my car.
After watching rob on youtube mention that he thinks his issues are caused by an exhaust leak I decided I would take a look at that too.
In the past I was always lazy and when I first got the car I was too scared, but this time I removed everything that got in the way of me tightening the manifold bolts so that I could do a proper job.

Here you can see the burn marks from the exhaust leaks.

And here is everything installed, thanks again Alex for the manifold! (yes I know I took forever to put it on)

Good job and no worries it took me over year to install Reza's 6 puck disk.

Looking at the last pic...did you reuse that busted manifold gasket ?

I did not, the one I pulled was an ebay one and the one that went in was a felpro one.

Alright so it only is a little better today, I have a spare lower TB section so I have done the free FIAV delete and will install that shortly.

Alright she is installed, will let you know how my idle tuning goes tomorrow.

Hopefully that fixed it....crank up boost to 20

Haha that's what I am hoping for just want to make sure that I take it step by step this time. Make sure I have idle tune down before starting anything else.

Idle is boring, WOT is where the fun is

Haha I know and I am hoping to at least get close to what I want before the end of the week

It's enjoyable to go through your car and fix all the stupid sh!t you did when you didn't know anything.
My plan today was just to swap out the ecu, but as I was pulling it out sparks flew!
So I took a peak inside and it seems I just wrapped the wires and taped them up but now all the tape came off.


Also did this a few days ago, I am really happy with the way it just tucks in, haven't had a chance to drive it yet so the sounds will be different too as I have always recirc until now.

So the car started up and it's idling better than it ever has.
Thanks to Stephan for telling me to double check the isc even though it was brand new, it seems my fiav was leaking and now that it has been replaced the car idles wonderful and during cold starts too!!
Will finally be able to idle tune it and get the injectors dialed in proper!

Good progress!

I don't think I could count on both hands new parts that I've picked up for various cars that were DOA, quality control seems to be a thing of the past.

Well Stephan and I seem to think it was my fault, when I pulled the TB there was a bit of water on the inner gasket. So I am guessing that the water got into the isc and toasted it.

So after a long chat with Terry I realize that I need to get a list together for this car and start setting priorities.
The next on my list is probably going to be doing the cooling.
I want to switch out to slim fans and throw in the mishimoto rad that I have. Then I have the ebrake cables that I can't seem to get out. The rocker panels that I want to patch up. And last but not least the Roof I want to redo in black.

If the weather gets nice I will probably take another shot at the ebrake cables, if this attempt fails than I will more than likely be taking it to a shop.
I am going to order the rad hose kit now and when that gets in I will drain all the coolant, and put the new hoses and rad in.
I spent a good chunk of the day yesterday cleaning my garage and am hopefully going to get some of the stuff in my garage out so I have some more space.
As long as the rockers get done before the winter I don't really care too much.

Any plan on putting that nice fluidampr of yours on your to do list

LOL, that's a quick and easy thing to do. Most of the stuff I have on my list are the longer things. Coolant hoses probably being the least time consuming of all of them.

Bryan, get a custom brasket made to support your rad resirvoir.
If i were you i would also do a nice engine bay wash so it feels cleaner to work on it we'll keep an eye on your progress. Good luck

Thanks, Alex.
I am really struggling as to where I should put it, I think I need one that is shorter so I can get it in the stock location.
That will be a big project cause my plan will be clean it and then find any oil leaks. I have a lot of sweat going on all over the engine bay and after some work it's gotten better but there are still places where I have this issue.

So I was spending the last little while trying to find a wiring issue on my car. I am still searching for the cause but I got distracted because while searching last tuesday I heard a pop from under my seat, then when I pushed on the seat it was creaking like crazy. So I removed the seats, the rear bolts came out great but the fronts came out like this.



Needless to say I was pissed, so I made up a plate and put a bolt through it, welded the bolt to the place and then tossed it in on ones side, once the one side was done than I went on and did the other side.
I had picked up bondoglass because I am planning to fix up my roof, so I decided to use it cause I wanted to make sure the floor was flush with here it was before and I lap welded the pieces in so I needed to add a little bit.

After sanding it down and painting it it now looks like this and the seats are back in. While I made the glass I decided to plug my antenna hole too, and will post pics of that later.

You welded the bolt to the plate and bondoglass it over the rusted area on the floor?

Welded the bolt to a place and the welded the plate into the hole I cut out, all rust was removed.
Because the plate was recessed under where the floor used to be so I used the bondo to make it even.

Thanks for clearing that up Bryan.
Whats next on your to-do list?

Lol. Danger to manifold. Then the floor pan pops off.. Thanks F&F for making DSMs look stupid.

Anyway, nice job Bryan!

It's gratifying being proactive about rust isn't it? It's like the value of the car increases.

Keep it up!

I wouldn't exactly call Bryan 'proactive about rust'...at least judging by the rest of the car

When your seats come out of the car and that's the outcome, it's safe to say it's time for a new shell man

Where did you find clean strong metal to weld to when it started like this?


I would take the car to one of the members on the board who understand welding more then the rest of us to fix this properly, this isn't exactly a spot you just want to 'wing' a repair... Don't want it to turn into a death trap during an accident.

Terry it doesn't take a genius to find good metal, I cut back further than you can see right now to find some though.

Thanks Mike! But unfortunately I have to agree with Sal, lately it's been just doing stuff when issues come up, but I am going to pick up a piece of sheet metal this week and get on the rockers before the winters.

Lucian, I am there. If it wasn't for the fact I was bleeding money with all the down payments we have had to make for the wedding I would have probably grab something. I am tempted to grab that Perry kids car that came on here looking for help. It has all the sh!t done that I need to get done so it would work perfectly.

Even if that work you did isn't right, it's certainly better than what it looked like before. Sometimes starting small leads to finishing big. I was wrong in the past to call you crazy for not using the fugitive as a shell, when I never even saw it. So I apologize for that. It's not like me to create animosity or express negativity and I encourage you to do what you can with what you've got. At the end of the day, it's all about gaining experience and knowledge.

Keep it up Bryan!

Yeah that's true but I abused the sh!t out of it before I put the seat back on so I think it will be good.
No worries, the only difference between my car and the fugitive is that mine was undercoated, the rest of the car was probably a bit better but not enough for it to be worth it.
100% agree with you Mike, which is exactly why this car has lasted as long as it has.
If it was about having a perfect car it would have been gone long ago!

Thanks man!

So I didn't want to head out into the snow until I fully fixed the rockers on the car. That will probably happen through out the winter now but I did fix the one piece I really needed to before taking it out into the snow.
Here is after poking out all the rust.

After some trimming

Little more trimming and the first panel in

After the second panel and some paint

Looking good!

Did you do anything to the rust in behind? Or do you care?

My OCD would have kicked in and there would be nothing left rust wise and countless hours spent haha.

Definitely looks better than before.

Maybe wire brush in behind? Looks like more grinding than brushing though.

Good stuff Bryan! Your welding skills are coming along nicely.

I wouldn't say I don't care but as I removed as much as I could, but it definitely wasn't rust free in there. I ended up spraying a sh!t load of rust converter in there before I closed it up though. I know the car isn't going to last me forever so I don't mind if it isn't perfect.

Yeah if it wasn't for the flappy sanding disc on my angle grinder I don't think I would have patience to do any of this. Definitely glad I grabbed a dremel though makes cutting much nicer.

Thanks Mike, I really enjoy welding, body panels are just a bitch sometimes because of how thin they are. I figured the front quarter would be the same thickness but the body panels are at least a few gauges thinner.

Love how you keep this thing going. 1ga love!

Haha thanks Roman, plan to keep her going for at least another year or two, then start hunting for something clean.

Who are you and what have you done with Bryan?!?!

Haha, you expected me to keep this one forever!?

It's the same Bryan we know! It all started with 300+whp, rally car, ..., ..., and now

Haha, well who knows what the future brings!! 300 will happen soon enough. Rally is a fairly expensive hobby so that's on hold for a least a while.

I think if I had to have a goal for the car right now it would be continue to beat it up and enjoy it. The stock suspension was probably one of my best choices so far.

Rally would be a god choice if you plan on trying rallying. Break it...send it to the scrap, keep the engine/tranny and start with a better shell.

I will have to at least go to a tall pines event and get in the pits, I don't think I have a full understanding of what would be needed, even though Derek has given plenty of insight, but I still would want to run through the breakdown of cost.

So I decided I would paint my roof cause I want the car to be black, from at least the sills up like factory.
I got some good high build primer and picked up tremclad.
http://www.rustoleum.ca/CBGProduct.asp?pid=7
The one linked above is the one I used, overall I would say avoid this pain as much as you can, if you get it right it looks really good but it's a huge bitch to get it right and overall I would say it's worth it. Most paint cans these days have nice nozzles that have a nice straight spray pattern but this just does a circle like your basic can. I picked up some fancy paint match from CT and that's what I will be doing the sides with.

I will post up some pictures later as everything is still taped off right now so want to get a pick with it all back together.
It's not perfect but I am definitely much more happy with it this way than the way it was before.

Definitely interested to see how it turned out!

Spray pattern can definitely have some significant effects on the paint quality. For the most part, I recommend that people NOT use spray bombs on their exterior. Spray bombs typically have no hardener in them whatsoever; you may find that paint gets taken off by the elements quite easily. That being said, I have heard that Tremclad holds its own better than most.

I had to paint a few spots on the undercarriage this winter after scraping off the surface rust. I decided to grab some paint through Eastwood that actually has a canister of hardener in the middle of the can. Pop the canister open, and you've got 48 hours of proper 2K paint with hardener. The spray patterns available with those cans were amazing; it's going to be hard to go back to the cheap stuff I get through work!

Spray pattern definitely makes a huge difference!! I was really happy with the primer going on, so I will try to stick with that type of nozzle.
At this point I would agree with you, spray bomb is not really the way, I was too frustrated doing that roof, I will update when I do the side but yeah the consistency was not there and I couldn't even pull off the nozzle to switch.
This car is pretty far gone so just testing stuff so I know what to do going forward.


That's some wicked looking stuff!!

Tremclad is probably one of the worst paints you can use on a car as it never really hardens so if you ever want to sand it, good luck. Enamel is also very UV unstable and breaks down in the sun faster than most paints.

A cheap acrylic or urethane in a gravity feed gun will turn out far better and last longer.

Will have to check what the rest of the stuff in the garage is. I was not aware that paint type made much of a difference especially because this stuff said it was for painting rust so I figured it would work well with any metal.

The fade issue won't be as terrible with black but it will loose it's shine in less than a year.

Here's a little read on how you can get ok results with Tremclad, however it will still fade.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/can-you-spray-tremclad-71202.html

Thanks Jason!!

Alright here are pics, if my car was as nice as most of the guys on this board I would probably be really pissed, but for me it works and it's better than the sh!t that was there before.





Will button her back up tonight probably.
Also should add that I think if I did a nice wet sand now it would be where I want it gloss wise.

.

Well this is the end of this thread.

I went to take the talon out on the weekend and both the power steering and the brake fluid is leaking. From what I can see it looks like the brake booster is what is leaking for the brakes, which would explain the weird behaviors I was having when braking sometimes. When I went under the car to find the power steering leak I found a completely rotted line, it could be replaced but I imagine that I would be braking bolts to remove the lower cross member to get to all that stuff. While I was down there I also saw how rotted out the bottom has continued to get even though I have tried to stop all that.
I know I have been saying for the longest time that this day would come but it's much harder to believe now that it's actually here. I will now actively be evaluating what my options are and will keep you guys update on what I get. When I do get something I will start a whole new thread.

Are you going to look at another 1g?

The front subframe and all the stuff attached to it should actually come off quite easily. Of everything on my car, it went the smoothest and with the least fight despite never having been touched since the car was built. My car isn't quite as old or rusty ad yours but it has a lot of mileage and saw some winters prior to my owning it.

I also have a full, excellent condition power rack (lines included) that I have no need for anymore (manual rack conversion in process) that I would let go for very little.

Sad to see this happen but we (collectively) have the parts and the knowhow to fix it if that's what you want.

True story! +1 ^^^^^

I do have that 1gb parts car if you need my help.

If I was going to do it I would be pulling everything out so I can do it proper and looking at all the rust I don't feel it's worth continuing with this shell. It is also rotted in the interior as you saw from my seat coming loose and I no longer think it's worth my time.

I have two options I am currently looking at. I have a shell and then I have a shell with block and some stuff in it. I am going to weigh the cost of building the block myself and look what's needed and decide which approach to take. And yes both are 1ga
Appreciate the help, will definitely call on you guys for help and parts when I need it!

It finally happened.

^ I am confident this is the right direction to take. With all the exciting changes taking place around GTA: i would consider an EVO X if i was in your shoes. Fresh new platform that needs very little to get going at first.

Yeah I know this has been a long time coming, just didn't expect it would be this soon.

I dabbled with the idea of trying something new in the coupe rwd class but decided I am not done with DSMs yet and still feel like I want to stick with them.

Also if I was going evo it would be an 8/9

So you have 2 or 3 1ga's?

Currently have 2 to choose from, mostly leaning towards the one cause all I will need is a head and turbo and all piping so shouldn't take me too long to get it on the road.

Can you share more info on those two?
Incomplete info makes DSMer's very anxious

Haha, alright well turns out they are the same car so looks like just one
It's Gus's car, trying to decide how much of it I would like to take.

and all said "amen to Mitsu gods" in unison

I'm in the same boat, find the evo X quite big for what it is. Just can't fathom the price difference between an old Evo8/9 compared to an X though. Don't get me wrong Evo X are quick and comfy, just doesn't have that tiny feeling when inside, feels big. I'm actually looking at quick tiny cars now. Kind of like Marty in MCM. Sometimes small, fast, agile is more practical.

There's a couple shells here and there you could pick up, orrrrr go crazy and buy whatever car and slap the 4g63 in it

You mean Moog? I like Marty's style more, super gramps is wicked!

Haha no going crazy here, time is short enough so if I can grab something that only needs a few things to get running that would make me happy.

Sorry to hear Bryan...if you need a hand with anything lemme know hope your back in a dsm sooner rather than later

No, Marty - Blue turd/Small Nissan etc. His super gramps is probably one of his first big ones.

Ah ok I got you, thought you were refering to the mini.


Thanks manny will let you know for sure!!

Haha just saw this now! Some how I missed it.

Well I got started a bit today started taking things off.
Looking forward to the warm weather we will be having so I can finish up. Glad this will be the last winter with an uninsulated garage.

You can take it all out in shot . Just need to unbolt transfer case, axles, engine wiring, crank pulley, AC compressor, radiator, and finally engine mounts and pull it all in our shot. You can even keep turbo and intake manifold in place.

I gotta pull it all off because it needs to go to the next engine, but that's sounds like it would be good.

^ You'll need a decent leveler in order to pull it like Alex there. Also, an extra set of hands/eyes will help a lot.

You're most likely to get caught up on the rear tranny mount (remove it from the transmission) and/or the pax side tranny mount with the studs. At least, those are the spots that always piss me off. Remove the front engine mount x-member as well.

14 dsms that I have possessed.., I removed the motors out of 12 of em (2 of them several times)
with no leveler. Not that I wouldnt use one.. just never had one.

Ironicly the most loyal reiable DSM Ive owned.. has never had its original 92 motor plucked!

Can be done, hell we did it at the shootout without even a cherry picker, but it's a hell of a lot easier with the proper tools. Got my leveler on Amazon for like $35.

Well got a good amount of work done this weekend.
Did some work in the interior and in the engine bay, most of the stuff inside the car has been cleaned out, probably need another morning to finish that up.
Also did some work in the engine bay, getting the engine ready to be pulled.
After Saturday:



After Sunday:


Engine is pretty much ready to pull, just need to get under and drop the tcase and disconnect a few more water lines, oh and remove the turbo just need to unbold the exhaust and it will be ready to come out.

You can pull it just fine with the turbo on it, just unbolt the downpipe.

turbo needs to come off anyways as that will be staying with me

Well I had to step it up a little this week as the engine needs to be ready to pull for this weekend so I did some work last night.
Only thing left is drop the tcase and alt just to make things easy.

Had the pleasure of meeting and working with Chuck Roach this morning, we started at 7 and finished around 930ish.
Everything went pretty smoothly.
Some of my paint got scratched so I am pretty pissed off about that but what can you do

Out she comes!

Aren't you getting rid of that shell after? Hence paint not being a big issue?

Yeah that was the joke. Internet is hard for sarcasm.

Ah gotcha!

Well made some progress this past weekend. Got everything out from underneath that needed to come off ala exhaust and fuel lines. This is the first time since having the car that I have had it on stands. I also pulled the front brakes and will be off on friday and pull the rear brakes. Jay will be here on saturday with the new girl and going to get everything ready so I can get it good to go!
I will post picture when I get home as it seems I can't from here.

Dont just pic it but film it....let Jay txt you 10 min before your house. Meet him outside with the rolling camera. Jay likes beer, have a cold one ready for him. Canadian is recommended

Post the pics/video for DSMers here.

Facebook now has live stream abilities

Haha ok will give that a go. Yeah I always have beer ready for Jay!

Lal

Althought i haven't been following this post....Bryan congrats on the new whip. And thank god you finally ditched that scrap pile.. no offence

I may be relieving Brian from his beloved Blue...



I will definatly get a video of the huge fork lift as it pierces her doors.. shatters her windows... and drops her into the pile of scrap metal!!!
Oh sorry Brian..... to soon?

Haha Stephen, thanks!! Looking forward to something a little cleaner

Jay really, you can't get my name right!?! Actually no that would be fantastic way to finish this thread!

This is how she is sitting right now after some work today.

so we are almost done here, jay came and picked up the old girl and took her away. here are the last few days before she went away.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...NE0Dk0gCCo/s854-Ic42/20160402_181900.mp4

After Jay left I had a good cry and now ready to get started on the new gal!!

the video link does not work for me. Congrats on scrapping the blue and keeping yourself and people around you safe!

That's weird not working for me either. It's the same one that I have on my facebook though.

You need to put the other pic...for stance-nation

haha it's in the tastefully modded section

I thought you were taking the hatch?

I ran out of time.. its not gone, I can stiill grab it.

ah ok