Project O.C.D.

Ive posted pics in the "post your car pic page" thread since aquiring this car a little over a year ago showing progress of my tear down and rebuild in all aspects of the car.

Im not gonna repost all the pics Ive already shown you, but you can see them all in chronological order in a few places

here

http://www.brightsidecoatings.com/blog/?page_id=87

and here

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...55.665572171&type=1&l=33d98048c4

Add me to facebook or follow me on Instagram, I'll add you and follow as well (robstar666)

Here are some pics of the latest developments of my money pit

Beautiful but I still liked your 1G better I followed you on instagram tho!

My 1g was a hack compared to the attention to detail you will never even see that I have put into this build. Its been a long haul but when its done, it will not only look good, but it should be able to handle some pretty intense punishment The final phase will be finalizing the eclipse conversion. Paint and hole filling I can smell the finish line. Its close.

I'm just biased to 1g's haha. I've been watching since your tear down and I'm thoroughly impressed at what your doing It will be all worth It when you get that big smile on your face during the first test drive

Rob beautiful work, definitely liking the sexy shoe setup!! I am looking at doing some gold calipers too, wish mine could be brembo though

*crank
*sputter....sputter.....sputter.....
BANG!
Fire
Extinguish fire with tears

But really, I'm sure that won't happen. lol

Still want to see this in person on stands or on rubber.

Finally started one of these! Follow our blog to watch Rob and I complete for who is most OCD on there projects.

Nice! Will the paint on the Fuel assembly stop it from rusting/corroding?

Mike, you've been OCD on you project for years, it'll never be done!!!

Rob, car is looking great.

It's powder, and I'm sure it will last at least another 10 years with no corrosion

This is the only car that comes to my mind if I ever bought a car magazine featuring a 2g DSM. Well, this car and Ron Korolak's.

Amazing work Rob

Awesome job on this thing from the pics we have!! I can only imagine the time and sweat in this

Ever seen John Freund's 2g?

It's been really nice to see someone put the time and dedication into it that you do Rob. There are far, far more hack job dsm's out there sadly but there are a few of us who have the passion and resources to do it right the first time.

Hopefully you bring get out to the shootout with this, I want to see it in person.

I haven't seen that car in person, but I followed the build thread on Tuners. What a car.

Just because Rob's a huge picture whore, doesn't mean he's got the only clean DSM around

I'll see the success in these these projects ONLY after I see them run...... properly

Seriously, I could get to work with a media blaster, powder coating gun and a camera , but honestly I got more faith in Rob than Mike D

can never have to many clean and fast 2G's!!!

Fair enough Reza

Engine bay the day I first tore into it.

Should of cept the talon bumpers....IMO

Are you gonna remove the talon Trim on the doors?

I dont want a talon, other wise i would have kept them.

Full conversion meaning, YES, removing trim from doors, filling hatch holes and gsx high rise wing.

Too bad Ryan...er I mean Rob! LOL

Sorry man, I love 1G talons, but nothing in my eyes is sexier or more desirable than a 2GB Eclipse. Its been (in a sad way) a dream car of mine for a while.

Guess there are more mods than just me who can see your terrible ability to write the English language. LOL!

Rob did you maintain factory crash beam at the rear? Are you going to change the airbag to a Mitsubishi logo'd bag?

You guy's are gonna give Jay a complex. Looks really good Rob. Even though I am a 1gb lover.

Looks pretty much the same as it does now. Can't see why it's taken you so long







Kidding, of course, but gotta say once again - what a beauty! Just waiting to actually see/hear her run one of these days!

I did use the crash beam had to make some brackets to hold the bumper in place on the top and under side so it sits at the right height and is not floppy at bottom

I Also have a complete black 99 gsx interior, from dash, door skins, seats, and belts, and of course the air bag ( and I even have rare black leather 99 spyder visors )

Is that the only thing which makes them rare? couldn't you just grab some black leather at a fabric store and put it on?

I could have, but I didnt,

Lol you guys.

Are the spyders visors the same dimensions as the hard tops? Typivally, soft tops, have smaller visors, smaller windshields too I think.

I absolutely love the attention to detail on your car Rob.
I seriously want to do the same with mine but right now I just want to drive the damn thing instead of spending more money.

The hardest part about owning a DSM is defining cut-off points of modifications for a season. Last year I faltered and ended up with too long of a list I didn't get back into her until June.

This year, I should be earmarked for early April!

POLL:

Yes OR No......





MIGHT I ADD, this mod would be purely functional, even though I think it would look good as well, pointing DIRECTLY at the upper rad hose.

Purpose??

In case you want to see what it looks like installed on a 2gb:









It's on the wrong side, but at least it'll give you an idea. I actually thought of doing that very thing to direct the air into my intake box, but I'm very weary in cutting bits of my car up. It does look good though and will work in directing air where you want it.

I like it.

PS, thanks G.

NP, the guy in the pic used rivets to bolt it down in case you were wondering. Figured it would help since his exterior is almost the same as yours.

Edit: Oh and notice why I used my body kit for that specific reason

(yeah I know it's a kit, but it works incredibly great for what I need it to do).

Im not so worried about intake temps but rather heat soak. I carved out the floor under the air filter a little bigger, and Im going to use your valuable tutoring on making a box info for the containment of the intake. IMO, its enough.

Your kit does a nice clean job of covering the rad air flow issue i think

So keeping coolant temps down on track days are on my mind with the build coming to an end. I have to finish these ideas now while the car is down and I have the space to experiment and execute.

EDIT, he could have at least used black rivets....ya?

Duct work will be you best friend for track days in that case. Making sure all the air from the bumper inlet goes through the radiator and not anywhere else. This may help but the latter will be more effective down the road.

lol there's the good ol' O.C.D kicking in yeah sure black would look better

But isn't this a duct? Pointing directly at the hottest spot in the rad? Lol

Magnificent work Rob. A true talented DSM artist and enthusiast. Now how come my damn Spyder didn't have leather sun visors lol

Nooooooo. Don't do it. It throws the whole front end off!!

Edit: There has to be another way!

Anyone good with photoshop?

Yep, I am.

I'm with Deep though, although it may be functional... it will for sure make your front bumper look "off" I vote for you to find an alternative, lol.

How about a shot at mixing the two pics I tossed up a few posts ago?

Sure, give me a few minutes. The perspective will be a little off though between the two pictures... I can see it already.

Hang on

I'm personally not a fan.... Deep said it correctly. Throws off the look of the front end. I'm sure you can duct the air to provide maximum efficiency wrt cooling.
Why cool your upper rad pipe?! I'm sure your flawless cooling system with new equipment will be up to the challenge.

Agree with the "don't do it!"ers.

Sorry, just think it'll look weird.

Super quick job

Its hard to tell how big this thing actually would be, so I guessed.

Close enough, I still like it.

I think it takes away from your gorgeous front emblem...

Just sayin....

I'm a fan of symmetry. If you do it, use two of them. But I gotta say, it's clean without it!

Okay no, do not use two. Please. I'll pay you.

Like giving your car a damn mustache...

HAHHA nice!

Just one looks off. If there was another next to it, I think it would look better and obviously have more ram air function.

These things always remind me of the one's that CTC sells. They go right on the middle of your hood to make it look like a shaker, and it's completely non functional. RICE!!!!!!!!!!!

But seeing as it's real carbon, and there's A LOT more carbon on the car. It can be pulled off.

BUT GO 2 or 0.

Ironically I watched Goldmember today!

I meant ducting the existing ducts properly (it's not done right stock unless you still have the radiator duct which most FMIC guys don't bother with because it won't fit). In essence, getting all the parts to match up perfectly (usually using insulating foam) so that no air can bypass the radiator. Although it's a good idea, the duct you want to add is more for air intake and turbos facing the front. Don't think it'll make too much of a noticeable difference for the radiator temp.

That's why I thought you were routing it to the intake.



And yet you bought one of the only cars with a non-symmetric hood hehe In a way the intake should equalize the non-symmetry of the hood bump by making it different on each side. There's an art term for it but I forget what it is

I honestly have to go to the bathroom before watching that mole scene. Just way too good, bahaha

I have CF ducts on my EVO, they are functional and look effing slick.

My vote is still the same Rob. If it's functional and looks good, do it. I'll stick with my original comment too; Your build is a one off build, this is another way to differentiate your car from the rest.

If you go through with it. Go with black rivets, they make it look that much better.

I should have prefaced all of the above by stating how much of a sucker I am for carbon fiber....

Haha Jay, very true. Any one that has seen your car knows you speak the truth.

I am leaning more towards what Gui is saying though. Work with what you got, although the vent looks alright, I am not sure how functional it would actually be.

How can any of you not know its functionality? It points at the bloody radiator!!! Geesh

PS, its NOT A VENT!

I realize what it does, I just don't think it will work.
Your pointing at something that is not designed to dissipate heat.

A radiator? really Bryan? LOL what are you smokin this morning

LOL, I thought you said you were point it at the hose, not the fins

well, come on now, its pointing at the rad, DIRECTLY where the upper hose dumps hot water. Thought that was a given.

Are you going to do any ducting?

It IS a duct, pointing right at the rad. Why would I need more?

I just ask cause the guys that have issues with cooling who are still running A/C use ducting to improve cooling.
Thinking something like this:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/att...7&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1283289974

The thread is pretty interesting.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/road-course-autocross/210879-getting-ready-2006-race-season-4.html

Found a double one

Nice Bryan

I find that more appealing.

2 or 0.

Nope, two looks stupid. One is nicer.

Loool 2 is more functional. 1 looks retarded

When you're done installing the 1 on the front bumper. You should stick the other one on your back bumper and route your exhaust through it. That should be good for at least another 10 hp on hot track days that'll help the symmetry.

I dont like it. I dont think it would improve air flow thru the rad.. any more then properly ducking the lower part of the bumper to feed the whole rad.

If all the air goes thru the ic..Those vents will actuall allow air to escape instead of forcing it thru the rad.

I was thinking a paice of sheet metal laying on the top of the IC .. curving up to the top of the rad.. and then acouple peices on the sides.

To me adding that vent for looks is like adding a spoiler.

Like this? I think your better off with Aluminum to keep things light:

That's a really good point Jay.

I'm sure Mr.OCD will report his wind tunnel results.

Sorry jay but that's just not making sense to me, at all

The ic blocks cold air flow to rad, and at high speeds your trying to say air will escape thru a duct that's being forced air thru it?

Really? Lol

Its not supposed to FORCE air into the rad, but rather allow MORE COLD AIR PAST the IC, which delivers HOT AIR to the radiator, and BLOCKS some flow as well.

You all realize theres rad fans pulling air thru the rad as well right?

You also realize my issue isnt getting enough air to the rad, but rather trying to get more cold air to the rad to help prevent heat soak, which is common when your IC is delivering baking hot air to the rad.

Geesh, how is it sofaking hard to see how this HELPS?

Screw all of u. I'm doing it, it's gonna work, and I like it.

Rob's right, that's what those ducts are for. It's the same principle as having a vented hood or a cowl. You are allowing either more cold air in or hot air out.

Rob, I think the question you were asking was not geared towards the benefits of the duct, but rather is it aesthetically pleasing and will it compliment your car or not.

Amirite??

Indeed.

Wow this thread blew up!

Thanks for the pic with two of them Bryan, now I can be certain that putting 2 on just looks like you gave your car one of those gay little mustaches.

I can't believe the functionality was ever in question. It's a hole. In front of the radiator. Come on people.

I still personally think they look off, but I know my opinion is biased by all the dickless morons in Guelph in the RSX or G35 daddy bought them with 29" rims and one of these things stuck on the front.

Rob, any plans to use some sheet metal to pull cold air from under the IC?

What would be cool to know is the before and after affects of installing it by watching your water temps using link.

But regardless, it will help. I'm not saying it's not going to.

I just think it's going to end up looking like this;

not at all if this works. Thats the point, to avoid turning my inner front bumber into a maze of fiber glass, sheet metal and junk.



Thats because your stupid

Lool



You asked for it!

Cool, keep us updated.

Ive seen the results.. We had a guy cut holes where you plan and drove around logging his results.. Then he fabbed in some duct work.. forcing all the air from the Ic thru only his rad..And it ran alot cooler!

he decided that the turbulance from the air going behind the IC affected the ability of both the rad and the IC. The diferant air pressures from differant entry points did not get along. The duct way allowed for more of a constant stream of air and was more effecient. He also said that the only orfice in the front of your car should be just 1 orfice for cooling and everthing else just caused drag.

I think your idea with the nostrols would work but you would have to do separate ducts for them. and dont bring outside air in behind the IC.. Keep it ducted directly to the Ic.

This guy who ran 11s in a 388hp saturn also said that with out a hole in the hood .. your IC wasnt working efficeiantly enough. Andthat was a bigger facter then frontal ducting.

Sorry bout the spelling .

Actually, you did pretty good bro!

A while back, Steve R. Posted a picture of how the chin spoiler affected positive air flow to the rad and that the air pressure created from it would escape through ducts at the top of the bumper rendering it a useless mod.

Drag is a possibility.

But at the end of the day, it is Rob's car to do whatever he wants. I still say 2 - 0. Although it reminds me of a Pontiac Grand Am lol.

I just think that with a little duct work .. he would get the same amount of cooling effect if not better and not have to put those holes in the front of a perfect car.

If yer really doing it for the extra rad air.. then try fabbing a evo bumper on there! I mean you already defaced the talon that it was.lol

So explain to me HOW a duct from one of the OTHER openings in the front of the bumper to behind my IC is ANY DIFFERENT!!! Your so full of contradiction it hurts my brain.

PROVE IT

Air from under the bumper is what we're talking about.

That works, but wow will it ever suck getting it all off :S

Pretty sure he's talking about all the air turbulence so there isn't a steady flow of air across everything.

Makes sense if true. You can push 6 120mm fans in your computer tower every which way from the bottom up and at the top, some pushing from the front and exiting out the back, but if there's too much turbulence, hot air is just being recycled within the case.

Best flow through is sometimes just a simple single fan at the top-rear of the case to pull cold air from the bottom-front of the case.

So let me get this straight, you are all convinced my car will be cooler with hot air passing thru the IC, to cool my rad, rather than a second opening with a duct pointing strait at the rad where the upper rad hose is........sure

Must be Monday.

Your car will for sure run cooler with the vent, but will it be "cooler"?

lol

I think it would work in a perfect world, but with all the turbulence and air being pushed every which way at high velocity it may not, especially if air from below is passing through between the IC and rad.

But if it is, then you don't even need the additional "cooling".
Right?

I almost did that mod rob! but Im starting to think I want to come up with something else a little cleaner. The duct almost goes the wrong direction, the air needs to be curved around back towards the middle

Im pretty sure your full of sh!t like Jay LOL!!

The air coming in from under the IC would be no differant. I woulsnt do that either. Jamie has aready lowered his engine temps by blocking off the air from under the IC. That I thought was comon aerodynamics. Air will move faster thru your rad if its forced.. and your bumper alows enough air thru its mouth that you can duct it into the rad. It may be hot.. but it wont be even close to being as hot as your rad.. so it will still be effective. differance is there will be more forced air volume from one area.. rather then forcing air thru you IC and then adding air pressure from another source. Making turbulance and killing efficiency.

Im not an engineer I cannot give you technicle numbers and variables...Ive give you experience. I could be wrong. But I seen it work. And I seen it work well And people do it all the time.

Jay's last post I didn't understand, but I get his latest post.

Makes sense.

Really.

I didn't sleep too well last night, but I think I'm right.

I did take a dump a few mins ago, so I'm running on empty right now.

I see 2 problems with this.

1: He cut holes, but did not create any form of volute/velocity to the rad. If you notice how those ducts are designed, they create velocity by narrowing in size.

2: This isn't a Saturn. You don't need to cut holes in your hood to maintain efficiency of your intercooler, come on now. All that does is allow radiant heat to escape from the engine bay.

Rob, I say do it. My setup has a 3.5" FMIC AND half my rad is blocked by my oil cooler, and I still maintain under 190 on the hottest day of the year, and I have no ducting. What I would do however is duct from those holes directly to the rad so you can separate the air pressures. You will already have a low pressure between your rad and your FMIC and those ducts are designed to create a high pressure zone just on the other side behind them. You may have turbulence issues. It's not like a fan creating a low pressure zone behind the rad and sucking the air in.

To be fair though, something I would consider is trying them out on a test bumper, just to be sure it's going to be worth cutting your current bumper up. You've put a lot of work into that car, and if you can find a cheap test bumper to do a comparison, you might benefit in the end. If it shows that it doesn't work as well as you'd hoped it would, you can always put your factory bumper back on.

Jay does have a point in the post above, if your intercooler was over 190 deg. F, you would have more issues than just ducting. The chances of heat soaking an intercooler of that size are minimal. You would have to be pushing upwards of 50psi and be doing it ALL THE TIME.

Your FMIC should be matched to your turbo size to work efficiently. Surface area comes into play here. I know you have got some serious brains between those ears Rob, and are almost inhumanly talented, however if you are pushing your intercooler beyond it's limits and are worried about extremely hot air going onto your rad, you would have to rethink your FMIC setup IMO.

So with that being said, all I would have to do is attach a separate shroud to the duct directly to the rad and problem with turbulence solved?



Dude Im bugging you

Yes.. technically .... Yay spell check!

Ive seen it done that way.. but you need the nostrils obviously. I don't believe the design of the nostrils will improve anything tho. Just allow air to enter that area and build pressure and be forced thru the rad... with out interrupting the IC air.

Then the IC air can build a continuous flow thru the IC and rad and easily escape thru the vented hood.

Oh wait no vented hood.. then the air will build heated pressure under the hood. Not drastic but hood vents would help a lot! How many production cars with stock fmic have solid hood? (besides Subies.. But real subie owners upgrade to fmics)

Saturns run hotter then DSMs when you throw a turbo on them.. Cause there not designed for it, so people who turbocharge saturns have to be creative.

Wow! The thread that wouldn't die. It's certainly entertaining.

Hmmmmm.... Well, ideally you want one inlet and one outlet to force air to travel through the area, which in this case is the engine bay.

Take an aircraft engine for example. An air cooled, piston engine.


I got distracted and forgot where I was going with this though....

As long as everything is ducted properly, you'll be golden.

I'm a partial fan. Are you doing it black or CF?

Rob that thing looks sick. I want one now. DO IT!!!

I also like the race car look though.

I know

Wow, there's a lot of hot air blowing around in this thread. Pun intended.

CF = <3

There's nothing better than functional CF!

I think that the front bumper looks great with the carbin fiber opening!
You wont benefit HUGE from it, but it will definitely allow some additional cool air to the radiator. There is no denying that.
As far as ducting goes, Without doing some serious ductwork I dont think its really worth it. There are other things that you can do to bring temps down easily.
Ill get around to posting some pictures of my setup, but Ive actually incorporated a boost triggered water sprayer into my setup with windshield washer nozzles located at a key hotspot in my radiator and another that sprays a good fan of mist over my whole intercooler when triggered. Water is free and the setup is really simple.

On a hot day, it really brings the temps down. Imagine the effect of adding water mist to all that warm summer air blowing into the bumper. I know its not ideal to get certain components wet, but I wasnt worried, Nothing was wet beyond the radiator. The heat eats it all up.

This is just one method of many to get the temps down though. Not many people do this, but I had good success with the system. I used an old GM washer reservoir and the pump that came mounted to it. Worked like a charm.

I think a good mod for you (if you havent done it already) is get rid of the hood gasket at the top of the hood along the windshield. This also brought my engine bay temps down.

Ducting is really cool! And it works really well when designed properly. I always see people ducting this and ducting that, but you also have to give air a route of escape to encourage airflow at speed. There is a reason people modify their rad support and tilt their rad and run a large duct from the backside of the rad and out a large hood vent. This is the best setup for getting air through the intercooler and radiator efficiently.
I think pulling that hood gasket would be a good start.


***********************************************************
As far as the intake pipe goes, I would recommend redesigning it like mine (if you have the room on your 2g)
-My intake pipe is a 4inch pipe that goes right where yours is located, but it then goes down into the bumper cavity, where bumper air is forced into the upside down 9x6 K&N filter.

I had my car on the dyno with a filter right on the compressor cover at one point. While the car was on the dyno, we swapped the filter for my custom cold air intake and the car made an additional 30awhp on a mustang dyno WITHOUT altering the tune!!!
Think about the gains I would see off the dyno and at highway speed !

The ONLY ducting Im doing is .....

-whatever the size of my IC is, will be sealed to the same size on the rad

-front carbon duct sealed to decent portion on rad

-my filter is getting a box.....Fed from the hole cut bigger that feeds from the inner fender. ......good e-fuckin-nough

Im not about to redisign my intake, its sealed and its not my concern.

end this sh!t already. Im doing it.

Stay tuned ........

Would love to see some progress pictures as you do this, something that is on my list of things to do as well and I could use some inspiration.

Hey Rob,
I'm going to be going in for tuning soon and can give you the temperature results from there, but for all the current driving I've done, the highest temperature I've seen was a 203*F spike for a split second. Maintains perfect at 200*F in all conditions (driving, idling..). I have a Fluidline rad, gates hoses, one FAL fan, one smaller Mishimoto fan, a Stant 14077 thermostat, turbo blanket, exhaust manifold blanket and the O2 housing and down pipe are wrapped. Also, I also have that A/C condenser and the inter cooler on front.

Do it. The duct will be sweet

Ever though of using that duct for brake cooling?

Your running two rads!? Stephan do you have pictures of your setup?

No hes not.........and this is my build thread



Not even for a second.



Its in motion

LOL, I figured he was listing what was on the car. Continue Rob, give us some progress pictures!

Just listing in case you were worried about engine temps/under hood temps.

I thought you said Fluiding rad then Mishimoto rad. That's why I asked.

No worries. Although I was tempted to photoshop a bunch of rads into the engine bay.

Cant wait to see more of Rob's car. It looks absolutely amazing!

rob, regarding your rad stuff. These are the facts, you can't argue with them:) :

-The highest pressure area is the bottom of the bumper (this is why wings are put there, lips etc)
-The lowest pressure area is the middle of your hood
-Pressure drops as you go from the bottom of your bumper to the top of your hood
-Your engine bay is a pressure somewhere in between

THis is my opinion, you can argue with it!:
-Best place to get air from is towards the bottom of your bumper (or under it)
-Easiest way to do this is use the air that is already coming in by making sure all air coming through your IC HAS to go through the radiator(DUCTING/SEALING between the IC and rad, it has been shown to be very effective, just deal with it, suck it up and do it).
-If you want more, put the inlets towards the bottom of your bumper (if you have a 2ga use the sides of the smilely to route extra air through your IC).
-There is no point trying to get more air to go through the rad unless you give it somewhere to go (i.e. a hood vent in the low pressure area)
-I believe that the air behind the IC will be lower pressure then the air coming in (has to be) so the pressure between the IC and rad will be in the middle somewhere, if you cut holes in the bumper near the top it is a crap shoot as to whether the incoming air is higher pressure then what is already behind the IC, if it isn't higher it is lower and air would actually leak out! Especially true if you don't have a hood vent.

Why would this matter if my IC is sealed/ducted to the rad?

So you're saying you duct your IC to the bottom half of your radiator (and seal to the rad) and have the holes in your bumper to feed the top? That sounds like it would work, but I would still take air from as low as possible on the bumper.

Edit: oh and the hood vent is still a good idea to help increase overall airflow.

And I think that the lower part of the bumper will take in enough air for the whole rad.. if ducted correctly. The 2 .. or 1 little hole you want in the upper section might not allow enough air into the entire upper area.


Plus if you have fans on the front of your rad like me.. It wont work way.

Why not put your oil cooler up there and feed it directly?

Or out on the driver side vent for that matter. Can't recall if you out something else there or not.

Would it make sense to use a stock intercooler air duct on the oil cooler? If it would be possible to mount it on the drivers side?

Honestly, I have no idea what that even looks like. An oil cooler would be much smaller but you could probably make it work, would make a nice clean install.

I still believe that you are better off bringing coolant temps down rather then skipping right to an oil cooler.

Brad, I don't understand why you believe its better to indirectly cool the oil through the coolant rather than directly using a oil cooler.

The only downside I can think of is the extended time required to heat up the oil to operating temp and this can be alleviated by a thermostat if its concern at all.

All of this from a hole in the bumper.

Can you just imagine what it would be like for HQ at ANY manufacturer loool

NOt trying to hijack here...Sorry

I'm not saying its not OK, I'm saying order of importance. If your coolant temps are high and your oil is low you are probably worse off overall. If you get the coolant temp low your oil temp is automatically low, and it also cools your engine bay, transmission...on modern(ish) cars the coolant is intended to do the cooling. Your oil NEEDS to be in that 180-200 range, which is where your coolant temps should be anyway.

Plus the second the oil goes into the engine it is going to end up at the same temp as your coolant (after things are warm), the amount of coolant passages in the engine far outmatches the amount of oil passages.

The only real advantage I could see is that you are squirting cooler oil on your pistons, but then a lot of guys say to remove the squirters anyway!

Just look at the tiny size of an oil cooler, for the amount of effort you really are just not taking out much heat.

Oh and trust me, engineering meetings get like this. We carry high horses in our back pocket just incase.

But this is about a duct and I think the premise is logical. The fact that more air is being "rammed" so to speak, into the radiator.

What the hell did I miss while I was feeding my horse?

Actually if you think about it this is kinda like the RAM AIR induction Trans Am WS6.

Eagle Talon TSI AWD WS6


Edit: Actually no it's not at all I'm an idiot. lol

I think Rob has enoughh info and opinions.

Well.one more..lol

Mike you have a point.. sorta. The ram air in the trans am was obvioisly for raming air into the breather on top of the antique pishrod engine.


Evos have sorta the same ram air. they call it something else. the little area. in the grill . But you could sorta fab up a smooth duct taking air from your nostril and forcing it around the rad and into a solid air box for your intake!

You guys done?

Totally my bad for the side track Rob.

Sounds fair, I blame Brad as well.

Stupid car. I spend a weekend a month on it. Not nearly enough to get ahead of schedule. It seems like nothing is getting done. (even though it is ......slowly) I spent most of the weekend wiring. I hate wiring. Car still looks the same as it did two months ago

I wont lie. It most likely wont see the road this year folks. The little things and loose ends are killing me. Its very difficult to focus on one thing when I get my one weekend a month, and lose motivation when I realize the vast list of little things, that all take significant time to accomplish.

But here are some shiny pictures. I look at them and ponder what it will be like to drive it.

It's only May Rob - plenty of time left! I'm so jealous of your car. Trade? lol

Looks pretty clean to me.

Ghislain

Yeah I agree with these guys, looking good. Really like the spark plug cover!

Am I the only person who likes wiring?!

Don't lose motivation Rob. Wait until you see my car this weekend, you're light years ahead of me. Haha

Wiring is easy compared to the detail you have already put into this car.

Didn't I tell you I'd give you a hand with the wiring and tucking?! Hahaha. I think you've managed just fine on your own thus far. Looks amazing man. Can't wait to see it in person.

Mother of god. 1 thing at a time! Look at that sexy thang.

Someone go help him!

I don't know what he'll do if it doesn't see the road this year.

Nah its all under the dash and stuff. Sucks workin on your back under there for hours. I get so retarded too, like forgetting shrink tube after soldering and having to redo it, or continuously cutting the wire clean thru with the side cutters, making the wires shorter and shorter, etc.....Its like I get any excuse after a while to stop wiring, getting tunnel vision as I walk around the car and find other things to work on. Every time I go to one area, I see another part that needs attention, then I work on it for a bit, and then notice another area of the car that needs attention, and so on and so on.....Im not only OCD, but apparently, ADD as well lol

I would of just pulled the damn dash. Lol. Much easier to work on out of the car

Don't give the man any ideas. I'l be dead before that thing gets started at this rate!

Oh man that's the worst!

I'm like that too, that's why my move this past weekend was horrible, and I'm unpacking very slowly.

Just force yourself to finish what you started, but start with the smaller things that take less time first, so it actually feels like progress.

Looks to me like you need help with wiring or you're going to go nuts and sell the car.

I moved into my apt 3 years ago and still haven't unpacked everything. Hahaha

^^^ Bah hahaha!

Oh man, that's precious.

Check the boxes, it's fun finding sh!t you forgot you had. It's almost like buying new stuff hahaha

yea dash wiring would suck with the dash in the car! I wasnt guna pull all my wires out, but chassis restoration project looks to want a bare chassis more and more. You should see all the comments people give me. They all think i am destroying it! haha.

Im removing all unwanted wires and connections, making sure it all works, relabeling it all again, and pulling it all out. But looks like you are currently light years ahead of me rob lol. Dont let them crazy things getcha down.

Get that bucket closer & you'll finish it this year. Wiring isn't my most favourite job in the world but I'm pretty damn good at it. I can wire while your keep your OCD/ADD at bay doing other jobs

Remember, were driving to the SO this year in our buckets....

Signs of a HORDER

Rob - Don't cut that hole in your bumper LOL

Looking good. But it's a crying shame letting it collect dust. If all you need is time and patience, maybe a lending hand is worth while having to get things done sooner. So that way you can start to learn how to drive again

Im not going to the shoot out. I have better things to do with my very little time off than hang out with gear heads Its just not in the cards this year.

Speaking of the S/O..finally got a chance to watch that DVD and that chick with jugs (dsm chick) is fuckin HOT! yaa....She better be there

Thumbs up for that. According to the video and Tuners, she's bringing her GST converted to AWD this year.

She's a member on my forum, it won't be AWD this year.

I did the interview for that video. /J did some shots of her car. She had a great set of.... (.)(.) Headlights.

too bright for our eyes....headlights

Ive seen better looking trannys that hung out by my old hood at Jarvis and Wellesly.

yah but they dont drive DSM or talking about AWD swap

Since when does any guy want their girl to be into the same sh!t they are??

"worlds are colliding!"

Good point Rob! Now that I think about it, deafiantly not me

I do! It's great when your significant other can have similar interests.

But yeah, J is nice lookin', like the ink.

Oh and yeah Jarvis/Wellesley trannys have coolant hoses stickin' out between their legs, no thanks.

Het, at least she's a DSM'r.

Would be a costly relationship but I like a girl who knows her sh!t. She can talk shop with me any time

This thread should be titled "Project OCD and ADD"

So this installed nicely, test fit done so now its going wrinkle black.




And Im a copy cat. I know, but if I cant get these to fit right, Im selling them. So far, its NOT an easy install. The floor of a 2G dsm is messed up making the brackets and seat height a hell of a task.

If sparco's and corbeau's can be made to fit, surely you of all members here can make it work

I also plan to mount my catch can in the same spot. Does yours have the 4" long bracket hanging off the bottom? I may need to trim it and reposition it so it sits lower to make room for the k&n filters.

They definitely fit nicely in there!

Mike, I ordered that catch can with full intentions of not using the mounting tabs provided. I cut the top one off, and modified the existing tab at bottom to bolt up to a stud coming out of the engine mount location. It works nice, just need to sort out my hose end situation. I got a straight fitting for the intake but looks like I need a 45 degree to help with the flow line of the hose. I also need 90 degree fittings off the can instead of 45 like I got for it.

As per the seats, its doable, but if I had any clue as to how HARD it is to make them work, I wouldn't have picked this pair of seats up. sorry for the bad news. If I make them work, I'll share my R&D with you. But as of right now, like I text ed you, the inner feet need some serious engineering.

Can you not grind off the rivot that holds the base to the sliding mount brackets and weld in or bolt the 2g mounts?

you can actualy still buy the oem brackets.

When i made a set of seat brackets up about 5years back for my 1g. i used flat stock right up against the carpet and that gave me the ability to have the strength required , bring the bolt position where i needed and didn't increase the high of the seat much, under 1/2" height. All that was left was to make riser plates to the level out the seat.

What you guys DONT REALIZE, is a 2g seat is made to compensat the 1.5 inch difference in height between the inner side of the seat and the outer. The floor of a 2g DSM is majorly fucked up. The OEM dsm seats sit at an angle when you pull the out and sit them on the floor.

The RSX seats ARE EVEN. This and the fact that the center line of the DSM seats in relation to the steering wheel is not what the RSX seat gives me.

In short, you can all give your advice and bla bla bla, but until you try to install one, you wont know what the fu*k im talking about and you can bla bla bla your advice all day .

1g seats are the same.

Use wider stock and you could shift the seat left and right as long as it doesn't hit the door or the center console but still have somewhere to bolt to? ! used 2in wide flat bar.

Machine and weld on blocks that would level the seat taking the height difference from the oem seat?

Ok mr engineer who hasn't seen what Im actually doing

wow these seats don't sound worth it at all.

The saying "if it were easy, everyone would do it" applies to your entire car. The seats are no different.

All Im trying to say is that everyone who comments on how I should approach this tweek should try and install one instead of give advice without knowing what they are even up against.

This mod, I may just pass on. Im sorry to admit, these seats just very well not fit to my liking.

Oh, they're comfy. Like sexy comfy....

Maybe they are, but they cant possibly be better then a pair of Bride, Recaro or Sparco....can they?

They ARE VERY VERY nice seats to sit in. Soft, ridgid, visually appealing. I haven't sat in brides before though. Maybe I'll get to sit in yours one day?

I will warn you Rob, Terry's seats were chosen to fit him. My shoulders seem to be to big to sit comfortably in his seats. I will say that if it wasn't for my shoulders the seats are wonderful, they hold the rest of my body wonderful and they were comfortable minus the shoulders.

True, if you are a large guy my particular Bride seats wont fit you, there are better fitting Bride seats out there but they prob will not fit in a 2g DSM very well. mine sit about 2 inches lower then OEM but since they hold you WAY better then stock they are also a good amount deeper, the rear of my seat almost touches my back seats which eliminate any rear leg room (who cares right).

I tried 3 different Bride seats and 2 Recaros before I settled on mine, My seats are by far the best seats I've ever sat in...next to my new reclining theater couch of course

Rob...one day we will finally meet and you will get your chance.

Wedge Engineering might be able to make you some brackets Rob.

I'd love these seats if they sit lower then stock.

They definately do not sit you lower, but actually higher. If I can't get them to sit on center, and lower than I currently have them mounted, they go.

Problem is, to get them on center I need to shift them to the inside, which is where the floor raises, so that would raise the seat more.

Kinda sucks. I love how they feel and look.

Rob. One heck of a build. Gotta love all the opinions about the air vent on the bumper. Can't wait to see the ride. Keep at it

I'm kinda relying on you to figure this out. Recent opinions of my car have sited a requirement for grippier seats.

After owning a set of these seats for a short period of time and being unable to make em fit into a 1G with its relativly flat floor I think your challenge is a big one and I would love to see it work out for you! I know that I wanted them in my car simply after sitting in them they are an amazing seat!

ah man jason you're harshing my mellow.

I take it a 2g doesn't have a flat floor like a 1g does. My suggestion was to seperate the slider from the mount brackets there are only 4 rivets that hold them together then use the brackets from your 2g on the RSX seats. Not sure if that would work. I was gonna get you some measurements today, But no one brought me a RSX to work on.

Stephen

A slider, is a slider, is a slider

The issue isn't the slider. The issue is the position of the sliders from side to side, AND the fact that a dsm seat sits one slider higher than the other. If I put a dsm slider on an rsx seat, the height difference between the inner and outer rail doesn't change. The dsm seat itself did that.

Further more, the pitch between rails on the two seats differes, and also the position relitive to the wheel and center of seat is way off. Compensating center line and height is what's not possible.

People who made this seat work either didn't care they were too high, or off center to the wheel

That's discouraging.

I'd like to also mention mr eng called me picky via text message

Am I the only one who thinks this mod has no room for compromise?

I think there is some misunderstanding. I am talking about the mount brackets, which the slider rivets into they are 2 pieces the bottom of the slider mounts to the bracket via rivets on both seats RSX and DSM. On an RSX the the seat base mount to the sliders via 4 stud and nuts onthe side of the seats. From what I can see on my 1g is that the floor is flat very flat. I have no clue what a 2g floor looks like.

Same sh!t, different pile

nope..

Is there anyone who has successfully done this mod with good results or is every completed install just a hack job just so you can say 'I've got RSX seats in my DSM'?

Rob is just blowing smoke. It's all a rouse to ween you folks away from attempting to copy us cool cats

You're still a picky bastard!

Your inablity to answer the question is amazing. Sliders and brackets are very different. Sorry for trying to help.

Stephen, I know what sliders are, I know what brackets are, and I know Ive spent a solid ten hours working on a fix, with a set of DSM rails and brackets at hand, and a set of RSX seats with the brackets cut off the rails.

I know brackets are riveted to rails, and I know rails are riveted to seat frames.

I know these seats like my balls afer this weekend.

Now what exactly do you want me to answer you?

Ok, I think this last attempt will answer your question.

It doesnt matter whether we talk about rails or brackets (or feet as Ive been calling them)

The difference is in the SEATS. DSM seats postion the rails AND brackets at TWO different heights.

So it doesnt matter what combination of bracket and rail I use, The way it all mounts to the seats is what matters.

RSX = both level

DSM = one higher than other.

ALSO to note.

Center line of center of seat and center line of center of rails is different.

Big obstacles to achieve desired HEIGHT, AND center to wheel position.

Kapeesh?

Id also like to say again, whover is using these in their DSM right now, must be happy with siting higher than oem, AND / OR sitting off center to steering wheel, which of neither, I am content to live with.

This is your Drivers Seat! It must be perfect.

I agree with the perfect statement.

Although, Steve has a ton of experiance working with RSX's given his lengthy background as a tech working in an Acura dealership.

So, with that out on the table..surely his skill's and know how will prove useful somewhere in this project. Whether it be the physical aspect of the installation, or the wiring involved in getting the heater elements to work.

I'm not saying "tisk" on you for shooting down his help. It's probably best at this point to post up a picture of the bottom of both seats side by side to properly compare them ONLINE.

Then idea's and what not can be shared.

I'm still struggling with the fact that after market seats are in A LOT of 2g DSM's already and have not heard or seen anyone complain about the seats positioning.

I also aim for this project to be nothing short of PERFECT. It's a big investment and if done well, will be one of the most rewarding mods one could make.

Keep at it Rob. Don't stop now that you've come so far.

I will try to get a pic of the bottom of both seats in the near future. I won't promise how soon that will be. I've been dealing with a lot of my own sh!t lately too. Projects like these don't just happen over night.

Im not shooting down his help, I dont see how him having a sh!t load of RSX experience has anything to do with this install. Really?

If I owned an RSX, and needed to know how to change a clutch, sure, hes got me for experience.

I dont see anyone else here chiming in with this particular install experience.

I also dont recall ASKING for anyones help on this project, Im confident my conclusion will be accurate based on my OWN findings and R&D. But Thanks anyways

Maybe Im just dumb and I spent 10 hours this weekend high as a kite and tripped out all over my seat instal

Or maybe, I know Ive come to a real obstacle based on my own need for a perfect fitting seat, and no matter what anyone says, I know Ive been on my knees and played with a tape measure for too long to know Im not at least insane in my conclusion

The latest acquisition, Thank you Jessy.

ah, you bastard, there was a line-up for that sucker. You going to add a spoiler? I like the clean look but functionally I like the spoiler.

I have this too, gonna see how it looks.

sun of a b!

Looks great...really want to see what it looks like with that wing installed!

At least you'll never have to worry about the clear fading or cracking sitting in the garage Hahaha...

Slowly but surely all the best parts end up in Rob's DSM

Not to start a war.. but I highly doubt that spoiler adds any function. Other then spredding the weight to the back of the car.

^ well.... If someone has a hacked up spare kicking around, I'd like to see the side profile of it. There is a curve so it may actually produce some downforce. (or up force for that matter )
No way to tell without the thing cut in half, of unless someone has a wind tunnel.

I have 3 wind tunnels & smoke, but none are large enough to put a car spoiler in

My vote is for spoiler less as well. Maybe its because I've had the large 2g spoiler on my car for the 10 years I've owned it, but the more I look at it, the more I think about not running it....

Well id run the spoiler.. just cause its CF. But I like the cool facter.

WINGLESS! recoup some of the cost for the hatch by selling the wing.

ya...I'm bias twords deleting spoilers

Ya. rob .. go wingless and give me the spoiler!

IMO, these cars came from the factory with them. It complete's the look of the Eclipse and ya...run it!!

Also, with all of the other CF parts on the car, it will match! And be EXTRAODINARILY UNIQUE!

True, but our cars also came with the T-25...you still rockin yours?

It will look sweet either way.

Performance and appearance are two separate things bro

I'm personally partial to the OEM look. Other than wheels and tint. The way the 2gb's came out of the box was dead sexy..again, this is all my opinion.

granted I have a fart can for muffler, it's performance is what I value more than it's appearance.

So Mike you have stock springs too? Monster truckin' it like Mitsu intended?

Personally I like the 2Gb wing. Since it's the OEM look it will never really go out of style. Like Supra-style spoilers on a Supra Not sure how all this bare CF would look on the back of a red car though. I might paint the hatch and the top of the spoiler, but leave the underside of the spoiler bare CF for a little peekaboo effect.

Either way, awesome car is awesome.

I really like how Gofer from tuners has his CF wing painted red on top.

cool idea someone I knew had was to paint his carbon fiber hood white to match his car.. but mask out 700hp so it would show thru the white.

Agreed! Rob do that!

Wingless looks silly on a 2g. The trunk area is way too flat and makes the car look awkward

That does look like pure sex..... PERIOD!

[/quote]
That does look like pure sex..... PERIOD! [/quote]

Sex and Period don't belong in the same sentence

eeww

Poor rob and his hijack thread. I think you'll find you'll want all the downforce you can muster for the cars intended purpose. But you can always try it without and add spoiler later, can't go other way around.

Funny you post that picture.

Just last night, hanging out with Johnny, I told him I wanted to paint the entire car red. Hood, hatch, top and spoiler, and leave a little strip of carbon on the hood by the windsheild, and leave the underside of the spoiler carbon.

True story!

Here's you little carbon strip by the hood

http://special-carbonfiber.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=77

Ah its to bad they dont sell one for the Talon!! Eclipses get all the love .

Kiddin

That would look good under a red hood. But i dont think it would good under a CF hood. And If I was that hardcore for weigjt reduction to spend that much money.. Id just get rid of it and leave it off. I never had one on my old 1g.

Sex and Period don't belong in the same sentence [/quote]

I was waiting for someone to bring that up. Hahaha

I also like how the rear of the spoiler is black/carbon. But still, SO MANY POSSIBILITIES!!

That things cool but thats not what Im talking about

I wanted to masc off a strip of the top section of the hood, about 2" or so from the edge, and paint the whole hood red except for a strip.

Along with that carbon under the spoiler, it would look pretty awesome with a carbon strip around the bottom of the car as well. Just a thought.

That would have to be like a carbon fiber sticker though. Im sure he just wants to show off the actual carbon fiber so when you look you go oh damn!! Thats carbon fiber!! Slickkkkk

Carbonfiber..Enjoy the weight savings...not the Rice...paint it all.

Common.... It's Rob. He would lay the CF himself

I love the look of carbon fiber especially half painted and when u can see it through the paint is sick too. Forget what its called

one of the coolest VW that is down this way has a two tone paint job and the carbon fiber hood has an area that he left a decal on while painting the car and then pealed it off for the clear its the CustomObsessions logo very small maybe an inch and a half tall lettering that shows in carbon so you know its there yet with out the rice factor that carbon on a vw adds
As for the debate on the wing my vote is yes and that paint on top and carbon underside would be killer! Really cool on a panda

A red panda?

It's a good solution to fading clear coat. But I wouldn't do it until it needed it.

Leaving something in the carbon fiber looks sweet forsure. This is what Evolution did on the doors of the spyder. And they semi painted the hood and front bumper. That spoiler will look dirty semi painted

There's a guy on BC DSM who has a blue gsx. He painted his carbon hood to match the car, and left this "strip" I keep talking about. It looks really clean, tasteful, and I think it would really work on my car if i did the whole thing red

For the life of me I can't dig up pics of it to show what I'm talking about

Forsure would look sick with that strip ur talking of, with nice dark tint on the windshield. Whistle whistlllle

Rob, maybe I can Photoshop a quick picture to give you a visual idea? It would just need to be the right angle (probably top-down) to get it right.

On a side note. Anyone want to help me go get it next weekend? Having a real hard time finding something that will 100% fit the thing and not cost me a left nut in gas

And mike, hold off on the photo shop thing, I want to draw something up in paint to guide u

I would be down if I wasn't opposite direction lol

I think I know what you mean. But yeah do something up in Paint and I'll mock it up in PS if you'd like.

I'm heading to belleville in two weeks.

MTL is only 2hrs from me but when I was talking with the seller, he had me google map an address that 3.5 hrs away from me if I wanted it for the price we discussed.

SOOO...with that being said, If there's a way you can get that hatch to me in Ottawa, it will most definitely fit in the MDX on an angle and ofcourse wrapping it with blankets and such to preserve it..I could potentially bring it to you in 2 weeks. BUT!!!! no gaurantee it'll make it to YOU!!

How does that help me get it here again? some one from the gta would be more convenient

I'd obviously go the extra 1 or 1.5 hrs in to meet you silly!

I'm pretty close to him, I can store it safely

I could hold it and meet up with you if it gets dropped off in the GTA... And finally pickup/pay for my buddies intake pipe.

I already pictured that in my head too. By the cowl, there's a flat spot that is a perfect place to play peek a boo with the cf.

Its paid for, if you could, Id appreciate it.

I'll come get it when I have a proper ride, and time!! Brightside is in the middle of a move right now.....im stressing !

Back on topic, How about carbon hood, black top, carbon hatch and red spoiler with masked bottom?

Ew... not a fan!

It looks good, but you'd have to some how replicate or do something similar to the hood.

Isn't Rob painting the hood but leaving a small part of the hood that's in front of the cowl in carbon fiber?

Johnny, I love you man, but you gotta stop giving me advice on aesthetics bro

It's just the fact that everything seems "disconnected" like that. Nothing flows properly anymore...

I'm a huge fan of your car Rob, but this will kill it to me. Keep the hatch red!

Lol. You ask so I give an opinion . no idea what I would do..... Maybe leave the edges of the hood untainted? About 1/2" on each side? Frack. I don't know what I'm talking about. I'm exhausted.....

This idea was the one I wanted to do to keep the entire top half black. A carbon spoiler on a carbon hatch just wont work.

I like my carbon spoiler

I like my carbon hatch

I like my carbon hood

All together its all too much.

To keep the carbon hood carbon, and carbon hatch carbon, the top needs to stay black too

This leaves me with this idea of the red topped carbon spoiler on the hatch

Otherwise, your right

Entirely red car, with a strip of carbon on the hood, and the underside of the spoiler in carbon........and possibly some thing else left carbon on the hatch.....like mitsu and gsx lettering in the OEM locations

Plenty of simple lines you could create to flow with the body from the front to the rear. I really like the idea of the spoiler painted on top, but by it self, it might look like it was just pooped out and left there...

Id take you up on your evo trade offer in a second. Careful what you wish for

Lol, that's a discussion for another day... outside of your build thread .

Still miss driving my 2g, even after owning the Evo for a couple months. It's that damn DSM bug.

Someone needs to find a cure, quick

I thought the newer Evos would work. But apperantly not!

Haha, I know, this is terrible news. Were all screwed.

Back on topic, spoiler idea looks sick

Lol

The hatch is now in possession by a dsmer I trust and look to for inspiration. Thanks for taking care of it while I get my sh!t together Jason I'll make it up to you proper some day

Tomorrow morning in the "Post Pictures of Your Cars Thread":

Jason Drew posts pictures of his car with new carbon hatch.

Fat Tony would have to make a visit to stansted

Frontline catch can finished.

clean

Just catching up on this thread.

Rob, regarding the carbon hatch; 1. sweet acquisition 2. What about painting the hatch red and slapping on the carbon wing? I'd still use your "painted hood with a carbon strip on it" idea, that way the car is aesthetically balanced.

Regarding the RSX seats.. I never had RSX seats in my DSM, but I did have Sparco seats with sparco rails and sliders, and the result was a misaligned seat relative to the steering wheel. If I remember correctly, it put me off about 2-3 inches off center. It doesn't sound like much but it was noticeable, and very annoying. Keep with the theme of this build and OCD the sh*t out of those seats until its perfect!

Also, how much is Jason Drew charging for storage? There's a girl in QC that has a carbon hood and hatch for an EVO that I WANT! Haha

Wait, I was supposed to charge for storage?

Its been since mothers day since I seen the car.

Today was seat day. Determined to get one properly installed.

History:

1- RSX seat WILL sit to the side 3" from center and too HIGH with any sort of after market bracket

2- DSM floor not flat,

So I decided to change the floor. I drilled out all the spot welds for the rear re-bar. Then I bashed it out.







Then I bashed this area down as close to the floor as possible, and bashed it in towards the center console as good as I could without tearing the sheet metal.



No I can use the DSM brackets, which I cut off the oem rails, and bolt them to new locations on the floor which will better center the seat, and give me a close to OEM height.



The brackets actually sit BEHIND the OEM floor studs by about 3" now and more than an inch and a half lower.



I bolted the DSM brackets to the RSX rails like this







Floor ready for drilling after I mark my spots to drill

Its in!!









I used the OEM floor stud to fasten my floor mat nice and sturdy



The end result is the seat is like OEM height wise now, and an inch or less off center (best I could do without sacrificing height, which is more important)

Catch can in, and new location for over flow bottle.

Nice work on the seat situation!

Is the seat mounting fairly rigid even though it's only attached to the floor sheet metal now instead of a bent rail?

Yes, I used some massive washers on the bottom side of the car. Its pretty tight

That's some strong determination!

Nice job!

I'm always a fan of some hammer-based creativity

Exactly what I did when I got those AWD subframe bolts out. Lmfao

Lookin great man.

There is still only about an inch and a half clearance between my head and the roof. My hair is sometimes ..... Ugh ..... Tall, (lol!) and I feel it on the headliner.

This is my first 2g, and haven't driven it yet. Not sure what OEM height is to be honest. How close are you 2g guys heads to the headliner?

I'm now thinking these cockpits are SMALL!

They are fairly small. If I sit back in my seat and sit fairly straight up (which I generally do), my hair brushes the headliner in it's longer periods. And I'm only 5'9"...

Ya im 5,11 m head brushes the roof.. in both 1g and 2 g.

I'm 6'1" and but short legged/long torsoed, I find I put the seat a little closer and lean the seat back more and I don't brush my head.



I think we all have one of those pics

Lol @ Jason and Johnny !

Ok, so im pretty much as low as I can go. I can't imagine how annoying it would be to be using a bracket and the OEM mounting locations. I think I'm satisfied with my install

I would like to see a better pic of the whole seat in the car.

Rusted axle spline? Been there! lol

5'11" and I don't really have an issue, but I sit with the seat low in the back and high in the front.

Ya.. I dont comlplain about banging my head in the 2g near asmuch as in the 1g.

I'm glad to see that YOU did this of all the people here. NOW, I get to copy you

All in due time though.

Got lots going on too.

Ya mee too. Just think of the weght savings from the removed steel.

As per your request

PS. thanks for the link today Jay, I think I will definitely make up a brace for the underside of the car after our little text session today.

Cheers.

Good work! They definitely turned out nice!

^x2 looks great, Rob!

If you think it's tight fit roomwise now...try it with a helmet on! You're gonna have fun then. Just ask Jamie (Valcamp). Pretty sure his head/neck are like this into the slightly higher area where the sunroof is, with a helmet on --> /

Exactly why I wanted to get it as low as possible

Yeah, not much room in the 2Gs. Pretty sure 1Gs had more headroom.

I'm 5'8" and my head brushes if I sit upright, so seat is back a bit.

I'm thankful I've got the spyder WITH brides...tons of head room

Great ingenuity Rob

Isn't the piece your remove structural? Or is that only the front piece?

I'd love for my seats to be lower.

I'm going to replace what I removed by adding braces I'm the underside of the car.

The part i removed doesn't do sh!t except fasten the seats to the car.

I wouldn't say it's structural as it is mounted laterally and spot welded in place. It's a bracket really. Even though it's layered and stamped sheet metal. Not structural imo. But I could be wrong.

Although, in terms of the seat shifting in a collision, for safety reasons..It may be wise to attach a plate via long bolts or welded under neath the body of the car where the seat mounts.

But I think Rob figured that out already.

Edit: waiting for one of you guys to say "safety? says the guy with no air bags and abs"..

Sorry but I LOL'd when I hear safety on certain mods! Some guys remove they're front bumper frame/impact bar so that they're FMIC's fit but no concerns with that ! Hehe...
Rob is one of the few I know who is anal about making sure it's done right so the safety part is probably just as "safe" as regular seats!
Cheers

Just for you Eng!

"safety? says the guy with no air bags and abs".

Rob I'm lovin the usage of the overflow, I have mine on the other side and bolted to the engine splash plastic, it tucks away like stock right under the frame rail and pokes its neck out just enough to be accessible.

I had mocked it up there, but I had already tidied up my engine harness along that metal rail, and I also want to seal my air filter to that area, so it fits nice on the other side.

Love the long neck, made for an easy install.

Thanks again Terry, big thanks

What are air bags and ABS?

I know the front one is structural if I remember right, however it spans the full length of the car.

I might actually do this with my OEM seat. I'd love another inch or 2 of head room especially with my Wink mirror.

Not trying to go off-topic, but, you actually have one of those MONSTERS? Do you take it in the house with you and hang it on your closet door as a full-body mirror when you get home?

Head room is IMPORTANT!

Room for head is also very important

I do. I never have to check my blind spots (I do always shoulder check).

Since I was driving as a teen, I always put my side mirrors facing away from the car as much as possible. When doing so, there is no blind spot. Your rear view is for looking behind you. Why people set up their side mirrors to see behind them as well is beyond me. My side mirrors show me whats beside me, and nothing else

With that being said, Im curious about these mirrors you speak of. Its a side view or a rear view?

My mirrors are set the same. I driven a full size van or a van with a divider across the back for work for years; you've got to have the mirrors adjusted right to see what's going on.

That said, I like the Wink mirror.



Plus it allows me to show off my inner ricer.


However due to my height and the seats height I need to recline the seat more to use it. I'm going to see what I can do with moving the seat though.

Holy sh!t its like a billboard!

mmhmmm. Unlimited headroom@!

LOL!

I was an over the shoulder type a guy.. Then I got a van with no back windows and had to do alot of backing up into peoples driveways. My dad told me to get used to the side mirrors. I did and Ill never go back.

HAHAHA, I've seen Tony's "wink" mirror in person and I was thrown off. I'm sure it takes time to get used to it.

It's like having Fly vision while driving. Hahaha

Good choice on stickers!

Rob, I had to creep your thread for a pic of the "hammer time" you had.