92 awd talon build

I was packing up all my go faster goodies ready to move house(with a garage woop), and thought it would be a good time to start a build thread.

I bought a fellow ca.dsm memeber/good friend's awd off him with a blown up engine with the intention of swapping my dd fwd motor in, then I found a motor for cheap and bought that he thought it was a 94 turns out its a 92 6 bolt whoop. So simple engine swap time right hmmmmm no, the car is a good half hour away and having a 1 year old I never got time to spend on it.

soooo I bought a part here and a part there next thing I know I have all the parts minus a chip for my ecu and a data logger. Whoops how did that happen.

The house we live in sucks big time so new house on the horizon with a garage.

heres some pics of the parts and hopefully my motivation to stop drinking beer and playing fifa on my downtime and drink beer and play with my dsm.

Moved in to the new house and moved all my car stuff in, including the car I havent seen in months.
also got a nice new tool box.








[img]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h13/boysettingfires/20130707_211258_zps10749e1e.jpg[/img]

I know this isn't the most exciting build but I only get about a hour a day to myself due to the ball and chain and my awesome daughter, who would be extra awesome if she went bed earlier.
anyways I need to build a work space before I can build the beast.

The secert it is to get up long before them and have your time then. My daughtets still fight to go to sleep everynight.

Hmmm, serious problem..... beer fridge isnt big enough...

Missed that... thought it was just a shelf he had stuff on. Good call kyle.

Kirk take a look at the shelves I built in my build thread.
I used to have the plastic shelves like that and couldn't be happier that they are gone.

I get up for work at 4:30 as it is lol (damn you toronto traffic making me start at 6).

I agree the fridge needs work but it was free and its cold lol.

as for the shelves they will do this house is a part of a 2 year plan, as in we should be buying our own place then.

Hopefully the tear down can begin at the weekend.

Got you, good stuff! Good you have a plan, I always say "Fail to plan and you can plan to fail!"

The shelving/bench Bryan is talking about will take you a Saturday to build (maybe not even but depends on wood working skills), Bryans garage is small but he has a bunch of work space and storage thanks to careful planning, your garage will be ready for any project...PLUS the material isn't expensive, in fact the most expensive part will be the wood you 'top' your work bench with. If you need assistance I can guide you through it.

Lets see more!!

I have the old kitchen cabinates to use for a work bench, I mainly need storage, my build pretty much consists of a motor swap and bolting on the goodies. Body will be done elsewhere.
I am on the look out for a cheap engine hoist if anybody spies one let me know.

Fixed that for you

I get home an hour before anyone else does.. so i get some time then.. and friday nights are reserved for ME TIME. nothing but me , my garage, a case-o-beer, and some Dee Snyders Hoise of Hair on the radio.

I gave up on the beer fridge in the garage. I dont drink enough to be worh running a fridge juat for beer. So I have parts in my fridge now. Its storage.. and its air tight to no moister gets in. I even have a poster of a girl on my fridge.. She signed it at last years import fest.. Told her it was going on my fridge. She wrote.. " hope I look ood on your fridge".

Pics of said poster?

Well my wife is stay at home for now lol the kid is only 21 months, but we are going to give each other a designated day each which will help for the downtime and may even ease the urge to kill each other.

That's a good idea Kirk, I will keep that in mind for when kid time comes for me

you need ME TIME ... its very important... but mor important... is HER TIME.

http://www.ca.dsm.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=407147#Post407147

her as in wife or child? The wife get any time she chooses not that she takes advantage of it nearly enough.

anyway I cut some wood for a work surface on the cuboards, I post pics later its only 3/4 inch but again this is all free materials and will work for what I need.

Happy wife... Happy life...
Those who biuld the shower together..... shower together!

Pretty catchy

Enough wife talk we all know how bitches be *checks to see if wife saw me typing*

Just more pics of man cave nothing exciting happening yet.

Maybe it's just me, but I get a little bit excited when I see a man cave being brought to life

Its in our dna lol.
any ideas on what I can use to protect the floor from oil spills etc, I was thinking of a tarp and maybe some kijiji carpet. I dont want to alter anything so floor sealant is out of the question.

I normally just throw cardboard down, it does a pretty good job at acting as a filter. The oils themselves can be cleaned off with strong cleaners once you're done with your build; if you manage to stop all the dirt and old carbon that's in the oil from soaking into the floor you should be good.

Absolute best protection: Paint the floor.

Today was engine stand, move the couch, beer fridge and start the engine clean up day.

I live in a man cave. Snappy fish tank, beer fridge in the living room, massive tv and computer side by side, car parts all over the place, video game systems lined up, oh, then I work on my car at the airport. Lol

My moms b/f has a man cave that would rival most garages.... Triple bay garage, 3 cars deep, no supports. Soon to house a lift and already has a 10ton hoist on the ceiling. Heated, cooled, stereo and big screen. All the tools you could ever need (grinder/wire wheel, drill press, sander, table top saw, bike lift, engine hoist, etc. the garage is bigger then his house. oh, and there's a beer fridge.
Currently housing a boat, 2.5 Harley's, and a big ass lazy boy recliner.

Can I move in there?

Ill have to snap my buddies garage its huge you could probably fit 6-7 cars easy, he did have a entertainment room with bathroom upstairs but her now rents that out lol. He and his dad have a nice collection of old cars, inc a ford 30 w8th a chevy motor, 57 merc, charger of some year and a z28. Thats only half of it, we also have a slow project going on, a ford woody with a thunderbird turbo motor.

Where is this house located?
It sounds like one of the houses that were on sale not to long ago and I went to check it out.

East end it wont be this house he will never sell it lol

Made room today because hopefully the can will be in it by Saturday, as I was moving my ride on mower I thought hmmmm I have a spare bucket seat and steering wheel.


why because race mower!!!!

No progress today just filled it with more junk from the old house, scary how cluttered its getting already.
now for beers and dan browns new book.

Need to put a snail on the lawn mower! Work space is looking great

I have some cans of plastidip laying around might paint the mower hood matt black or satin green for shitz and gigglez

Got a few things done today, the landlord moved his trailer from tge front of the garage door so the car can be moved in tomorrow, before that I layed some tarp down for spills etc,thought I had more but it will do for now.
got a palm pilot for logging too.
also found out the local cash converters is closing and have everything on sale then a further 30% off so I went and grabbed a shop vac, pressure washer, jack stands, a mitre saw, circular sa and a 120v snap on impact gun for 160 bucks cant go wrong with that!!!!

Just played with plastidip last night for the first time

I messed up my beater using it how did it go for you?

Well the car is in the garage and I mocked up the splitter since the bumper was off already?
what do you think.

The fogs are going

OMFG! How did I miss this?! Amazing! bahahaha!

Cut the grass with it last night it was unbelievably comfy.

Before I jack it up I decided to take off the hub nuts, the drivers one came off easy but the passenger side is been a bitch, I'm just going to keep wd40ing it and hitting it with the impact its is reverse thread right??

Started the tear down. Sponsored by tiger and grolsch.

Facebook picccccc

No...it's not reverse threaded...the only thing reverse-threaded on these cars is the compressor wheel nut on the turbo.

Got some more goodies for the garage some bargains for sure the hoist with leveler and chains maybe used 3 times $200 and it can be operated with air too.
and the low level jack is on sale at crappy tire for $100.

Money well spent imo.

hmmmm maybe I mifht grab that jack.. 100 bucks at Canadian Tire you say?

Yeah I really don't think you can go wrong.

Leveler FTW!!!

Made a list to keep track of the build.

Wouldn't it have been easier to use chalk?

Couldn't find any lol

operation vroom not boom commenced today removinh as much as I can ready for the pull, im happy with the progress considering im only getting a hour here and there on it.
still need to get a hayness manual though.

If you really want paper than go for the Haynes, if you can deal with digital I would recommend the FSM

and it is free!!!!!

Why digital? Pick up a pretty much brand new set of FSMs for the car for $20-$30 (off eBay...I can link if you'd like). I did...WELL worth it and anyone who tells you otherwise doesn't know what they're talking about.

Fsm? Link?

Sal, I would love to see a link. The best price Gui and I could find was 100ish.

TADA
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/fre.../344490-download-1g-service-manuals.html

http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odk...mp;_nkw=talon&_sacat=0&_from=R40

This guy is well known by people in the automotive world...his stuff is priced great and the quality is top-notch.

He seems to be out of 1992 manuals at the moment but has most of the others.

I paid $15 with FREE shipping (within the States - I got it sent to a holding depot) for a set of manuals in mint condition. Didn't look like they had ever even been opened - all the pages were perfect and white.

Just search "1992 talon manual" or "1992 talon service manual" or "1992 talon shop manual". Shipping will cost more than the books in most cases, so if you're making a trip to the border, get it sent to a holding depot.

Nice find! The one we found had all three manuals, not that the body one is a huge issue but if I am buying the books I would want the whole collection

There are two manuals specific to these cars - the "Engine, Chassis & Body" manual and the "Electrical" manual. That's it, that's all.

You can also kind of consider the 1.8/2.4L manual part of it too, but who cares about that one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-Chrysl...ture&hash=item3375be76a8&vxp=mtr

How about the Technical Information one, I have a copy of that for the 1990, I haven't read it but I figured it may be useful.

There's nothing I've needed that hasn't been in those 2 manuals. The only thing the manuals don't have that I wish they did is parts numbers for most things, since I can never get ASA/CAPS to work for me.

Ok good to know, so no need to worry there.
Hm, that's weird, what operating system are you on?

It's just because he only runs 64-bit operating systems. CAPS no likey.

Oh, I haven't tried yet. I will try this week I am on 7 64

If you manage to get it to work, you will be the first, as far as I know.

Yup.

I use Windows 7 64-bit and no amount of clicking around with the compatibility modes will seem to get it to work.

Install VMware, install XP virtual machine=caps works no prob

Too much work for one program that I don't really ever need to use.

Maybe so, but it works if someone needs it.

I'm using XP Pro and CAPS works perfectly for me.

Are you guys a bunch of MAC guys complaining again...?

XP Pro was predominantly distributed as 32 bit, I believe.

Edit: I think this has been discussed in other threads; we should really stop cluttering this build thread...

Tried my hoist out today to get the new engine on the stand, but I had the wrong size threaded rod, should be on it tomorrow though.

Got the other hub nut off, jacked it up and moved it so could access the door bolt holding the other fender on, so both fenders are off and the front is sitting on jack stands.
the only picture I deemed worthy of sharing was the fuel.

Ok so struts off and axles are free whats the best way to pop them out of the tranny and is it that simple or do I need to prop something inside to stop anything fron miss aligning?

Prybar between the tranny and axle should pop right out.

Just be careful to not mangle your axle seal on the tranny. Unless you're already replacing those. I found it easiest to use a 16-18 inch bar with angled flat head. Granted that's a pretty standard bar. Under the car is also easiest.

PS. I like your taste in "fuel"

Looks like I need to rig up a ventilation system for the garage/basement, the smell is seeping up into the house.

Wife complains about the house smelling of the garage.
man gets big ass ventalation fan.
wife complains about noise of fan.
man contemplates hiring a hitman.
I CANT WIN!!!!!! LOL.

I have a problem, please see this link.

http://www.ca.dsm.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=409169&#Post409169

I would have replaced the door and insulate the garage

Windows 7 64bit, ASA is working fine. Unfortunately the one I have doesn't have evo x in it.

I would suggest just build a separate building then the noise wont bother her what so ever

She has left me alone about the smell for a few days, I reckon the sawzall to the nose threat did it.
Sooooo the new engine is no closer to been on the stand due to me ordering m8 threaded rod to use in the tranny mounting holes instead of m10.

but I did get the transfer case off can you guess where it landed from the pic?

I also got the passenger side axle out using good old British ingenuity I.e a rope and a big bar plus my brawn.



today was sponsored and fueled by.



Hopefully the pooched motor will be out this weekend, which turned out to be a 6 bolt too, (worth anything for a rebuild??)

If the block isn't destroyed and the crank is good (block in particular) you can definitely make a few bucks selling it.

Sweet although if the block is good ill just get another head and keep it spare.

That looks like it might have sucked a little..... or a lot. Most likely a lot.....
Glad you got it out though!

Yeah it came out easier than I thought, do I need that ball bearing in the shaft now or is it no big deal?
Also im getting ready to pull the motor at the weekend and here is whats done so far let me know if I have missed any thing.

Driveshafts, transfer case, exhaust, power steering lines, a/c lines, throttle cable, plugs, sensors, hoses, rad and I think thats it.

does the abs and battery tray need to come out, it looks tight.

If you're lifting the engine and tranny out as one through the top then you'll want that battery tray gone. Can't speak on the ABS module as I have no idea where they are/what they look like in a 1G because mine never had it and I don't think I've ever seen a 1G with it.


Make sure all sensors/etc. are disconnected. Knock sensor is one most people forget about - make sure you do it!

I may take the abs out to be safe ill bypass it any way, anyone got a non abs prop valve they dont need.

Today was very productive.
I got some kyb adjustables for my ground control coilover sleeves.
I got my replacement engine on the stand.
I also managed to get the engine out

Can I just go ahead and jet wash the engine bay, everything that will get wet will dry right??????

Just wrap up the harness in plastic and cover any holes to interior...should be fine otherwise.

You sure can. Maybe try and stay away body plugs so you dont soak you interior. Then if you have a blow gun you can blow out the connectors.

Cheers guys there is a tonne of oil and cv grease all over it. But no rust at least.

Man in his natural habitat.



All the pullys and tensioners look to be in good condition, but I have a brand new water pump so I really should install it but I have never done a timing belt before and im a bit nervous tbh.







what is this and does it just unscrew

A timing belt job is only bad if you screw it up The trick is to make sure all the little arrows are lined up properly and that's it! (and making sure your balance shafts are orientated properly if you still have them) The VFAQ is very straight forward. Go for it!

Ooooooo! You have a gooey knock sensor! I've never actually seen one do it, but I hear about it all the time. That will need to be replaced and yes, it does just unscrew from the block.

Kirk, timing is really easy. Don't sike yourself out. Just line up everything before you take the belt off, that way when you go to put it back on it's easy!

Johnny, looking at this pictures he does indeed still have the balance shafts. I've never done a t-belt job with the balance shafts in and I'd be willing to bet many of the people on here haven't either. Haha...not that it makes it much harder, just more work/time consuming.

Kirk, it's pretty straightforward to do a timing job, especially with the engine out of the car.

And as Johnny mentioned, that's a gooey (i.e. no good) knock sensor). Just spray it with some penetrating oil and pull 'er out. Be very careful not to overtighten the new one when you put it in, but at the same time make sure it's tight enough that it won't come loose and cause you tons of headaches.

Cool there is one on the old motor ill swap them out, is the balance shaft delete worth it?

Best way to them is out of the car. Can't get much easier.Give her go. Also make sure your hydro tensioner isnt leaking around its seal if it is toss it and get a new one no sense risking it.

Well, you're cutting down on rotational mass which robs you of power. BUT, it does make for a nice smooth idle. Totally up to you. If you do plan on doing it, get the full kit. No cutting corners!
https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=18388&cat=0&page=1

I wont have time for that the wife is going away for the weekend so I am going to throw as much time as I can at the car. Should get some real progress done.

Also I have a 90 oil filter housing, is it worth picking up a stock oil cooler?

I think that can only be answered by your operationg temperatures.
If you run hot than it will keep the car cooler, if your car is already cool than your car might over cool.

Actually, the 90 housing has a thermostat built in to open a bypass around the cooler when the oil temps are too low, so that doesn't really end up being an issue.

It's generally a good idea for these cars to have some kind of oil cooling, since the oil is having to cool the turbo.

Kirk remember to get a new balance shaft belt if you plan on keeping them, the BS belt spins MUCH faster then the timing belt, losing that stupid little belt could (and often does) take the timing belt with it when it lets go.

Good to know Jeremy!

Id go with the cooler... the water cooling way is a known fail for dsms... they leak coolant into the oil.

Id get rid of the balance shaft BELT... My 1g was making a horrible noise for a week. and I couldnt figure it out till I removed the belt cover and found my balance shaft belt was shredded and trying to feed itself into the timing belt sprokets. I removed the belt.. but left the shafts and it drives fine. vibrates more then my Envoy.... but not enough to bother my wife.

When you swap knock sensors... take some rtv or window weld and fill the back where the screw is. this helps eliminate phantom knock from th the rest of the engine bay.

Since you have the motor out... remove and clean the oil pan. Then give it a fresh rtv seal.

Cheers guys, I im at the junk yard today so ill nopefully get sll my non abs stuff and the cooler.

Do not run your car with out a balance shaft belt if you still have balance shafts installed!

Just google what can happen, theres also a bunch of threads on tuners about removing them completely or just replacing the belt but NEVER just do it halfway and run no belt with them installed.

This is how ForcePower does it.
Was looking at one built by them right after I bought my car, guy informed me they just remove the belt and it's been fine.

So I bit the bullet on a few things.
A/C gone.
ABS gone.
bought a balance shaft belt replaced that and the waterpump.
did the timing and got it spot on with my 3rd try.
I also bought a double flaring tool for the brakes.
and some more fuel.
all in all a very good day.

You drink some wierd sh!t.....

I only have 1 rule, ill only drink it if its wet.

That rule sound like it could get you in trouble.. But good work on the Tbelt nice and easy out of the car arent they?

Hurting today too much fuel last night now im running lean.
Hosed the bay down, and im starting to put the turbo and accessories on will hopefully have some good progress pics tonight.

All went well today minus the tranny the motor is good to drop in, which would happen in the morning if the brake flaring tools accessory hadn't have broken, so a trip to partsource in the morning to exchange the tool and mKe a few lines I should have it dropped in tomorrow.

All I could ever find was lots of people saying it would vibrate way too much... well it it dosent vibrate much.... for a dsm.. My 2g with an eliminator kit vibrates more. I read somewhere that the constant vibrations will prematurly wear out bearings.... well so does driving your car hard! And with a dsm... it seems that if you havent replaced your engine or rebiult it... you will. The shafts are to keep the engine in sink so It will last longer.. but They never thought people would be running 7000+rpms with huge turbos on them. And I would never trust that cheesy rubber balance belt on an engine putting out twice as much power and a abuse then it was intended for. Especially since my 1g is all stock and it thru its balance shaft belt and nearly killed my motor.

Don't cut the balance shaft belt

Its a bunch of reading but it might just change your mind on how 'unimportant' running a balance shaft belt is. Other then premature bearing wear there are a nice little list of possible issues that lead to engine failure (and often do). If your going to do a MOD just repair or remove it properly...don't half ass stuff then ask later 'How come my DSM died??' lol

Your call...no pressure

Im no saying dont install a eliminator kit... But I have read many people have been driving for years with just a lack of belt. My 1g is going on year 2 of no belt and its a dialy driver... 2 people have learned how to drive in it.. and Its seen alot af abuse.

But I have seen the stubbie removed from a couple engines... and I didnt like what I saw. The lack of oil pump shaft. lead to bad oil pump bearing races.Which would have made a mess.

Its really one of the legendary DSM aruments.. there will always be just as many people say its fine as people who say dont do it.

What a weekend after a few snags its in, im covered head to toe in grease, I ache like hell but it was worth it, did my first timing belt, my first set of brakelines, had a few beers, watch the new fast and furious and the new initial D series. Best weekend in a long time
Turn key next weekend ..... we will see.



Big shout out to mans best friend (lucy) for keeping me company.

Agreed

excellent progress kirk, I forgot to but you should take a video of her starting for the first time.

Nice work Kirk, very good progress!

That Tiger beer is good stuff!=gold medal beer!

Looking good and good progress over the two days. Don't forget to video tape your first crank

Looks good. Lots of progress.

Tiger is amazing beer.

Awesome job man!

Question, off-topic, when covered in oil/grease like that, what the hell do you use to shower!?

Straight soap never cuts it, and it's not like you're going to bathe yourself in that orange clean stuff...do you?

Dawn dish soap on the arms and hands in a sink. Bar soap in the shower. Maybe a good scrub with the luffa you know..the fluffy ball your wife uses to scrub your ass and her face.

I have industial lime soap.

Put sugar in your dish soap. gives it a granular feeling like that orange stuff.

I have a tub of orange in the truck that goes to the wreckera with me.. other then that... its dish soap in the laundry tub before Im even aloud in the house.

I broke a nipple of sorts on the power steering pump any ideas what does there is a wire coming off it of sorts.

^^
It detects steering load and bumps the idle up when you turn your steering wheel. You could experience low idle or stalling when cornering slowly.

I didnt hook that up on my 2g when I moved the pump to the back of the block.. Didnt seem to effect anything.

On a Saturn it adjust the timing to account for the extra load. People used to wire it into an output signal and control timing in certan situations. Like knock.. I never got into that tho.

Ill run without then swap it out once its been running for a while.

You're going to run without it after reading this?

Especially in Hamilton, you'll get rear ended trying to make a turn!

Ill deal with it till im confident about retiring the daily then steal the one off that.

You will probably never notice it not there. Other then very tight parking lot turns at very low speeds.

I ran without it for a long time and since connecting it have not noticed a difference.

Thou shalt not admit on a mens car forum, that he doth dabble in the "tuning" of thine Saturn automobile, lest he tender his man badge!

I know it sounds gay... but Saturns weigh about 2400lbs.. have twin cams.. and full indpendant susupension. Hook a used t3 turbo to that and some cheap fuel control.. and you will easily run 13s. Add a bit of money and we had stock looking saturns blowing doors off of Camaros and Zo6S

Hand it over dude.....ette..

Jay is clearly going to the Pontiac/Saturn Shootout this weekend.

Jay, let us know how it is

Anyone see that Saturn on Youtube waxing Supras?
Sleepers are awesome!

Last night I plumbed and plugged most of it in, just hope I havent missed anything lol, also deleting any vac lines I dont need, the egr is deleted, the carbon canaster. In fact am I right in saying the only vac nipples are on the throttle body so all I need is one for....
Bov
mbc
boostgauge.

should be picking up a exhaust tomorrow too.

Yup, there are only on the TB, the IM and for most people, one on the compressor housing or J-Pipe, but this is positive pressure only - NO vacuum; to be used for MBC/WG.

You'll need a vacuum/boost source for a MAP sensor and (Adjustable) Fuel Regulator too.

Where is it on the IM?

There is the big nipple on the back for the brake booster and there is is another large vertical nipple sitting in the 'pit' of the intake manifold that the PCV usually goes to. Then there are two more (I believe) tiny nipples sticking of the plenum pointing to the front of the car.

Whatever you do, use the stock brake booster nipple for the brake booster. You can rearrange all the other hoses/nipples as you like but the brake booster NEEDS to go to that large one on the back. I've tried it in other locations and it is scary going from full throttle/boost to brakes and having to wait a second for the booster to see full vacuum...so, run that one stock.

ALSO, the P port on the TB sees both vacuum and boost (the others do not). It is perfect for a boost gauge or MAP sensor, but does not provide enough flow for a BOV/etc.

Perfect thanks next question, I just picked up a 2.5 exhaust if I use it with my 3inch downpipe and cat will I be ok with my mods?

@ Kirk, 3 inch DP with a 2.5 inch cat back will be plenty, unless you plan on making more then 400hp.

I personally would have no issue with the other way around.

But going from 2.5 to 3 inche doesn't sound like a good idea to me.

3 inch exhaust was definitely my favorite mod thus far, if I were you I would wait till you can do the whole thing 3 inch.

His restriction will be the cat, the 2.5 will do just fine flowing after the cat.

Hm, I was told my exhaust was a 2.5 inch before I replaced it, I figured you would want to do the whole thing to notice a difference.

You would. And I agree a full 3 inch is very a noticeable improvement. But I guess it depends on what he is planning for a cat.

The cat is 3inch too so I figure it will do fine I will probably build a 3inch once its been on the road for a while.

Just run it and have a good time!

swap it WHEN you start having serious back pressure issues.

Hoping to get some enthusiasm back tonight, and actually look inside the car, apparently there are some parts in the trunk I didnt know about, I opened the drivers door popped the hood and went to work lol.

Got a smidgin of enthusiasm today and went down and bolted more boltable bolts and tightened some dooodahs.
came across the clutch bolt totally bent.



So I need a new one of those.

Also tore out the 3 solonoids in this pic what were they for and do I still need them.

Oh enthusiasm...you never know where its gonna take you lol.

Hopefully to a running car by the end of summer at least.

You had 3 solenoids? Usually it is 2 solenoids and a big connector. One is your canister purge solenoid and the other is fuel pressure control. I think but i may be wrong fp solenoid is used to increase fuel pressure during hot starts. The purge you only need if you are keeping your canister.

yeah that's right stephen. maybe one is an abs thing, mine only had 2 aswell

No wouldnt be abs. Could be egr but it would have to be a cali car.

I think your right i think its 2 and a connector.

Oh ok, I was trying to think of things that didn't come on my car that others might have.

Changed the cv boot on the drivers side axle and installed both sides, cant find the bolts for the drivers side bracket tho so getting it on its wheels will have to wait.

https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=18747&cat=1879&page=1

If this is what you're referring to.

You can just use high-grade bolts if you want, but make sure to get the spacer or compensate for it somehow.

Yes.... you never ever want lay on your back to drill those Fing bolts out. Next time i am pulling the engine.

This is what I did...but I only had one broken bolt, so I waited 2 years before I pulled it

Thats the one ill pop over to parts source after work.

Do not buy non-oem bolts for this bracket. They are non-standard length (41.5mm) and have a special shoulder, as well as a pointed tip.

M10x1.25 thread, 41.5mm length, 14mm head size, grade 7, 26-33 ft-lbs torque spec.

All sorted and bolted up as well as the suspension and mounted the radiator and only just noticed I have 2 piston calipers too
Should be picking up a full leather interior on sunday too.

Stripped my interior and got access to my fuel pump to find something quite strange I found speaker wire doubled up(I assume to double the gauge) and its ran into a connector behind tge dash, is it possible that they did this as a alternative to the normal fuel pump rewire????

If they did that's pretty weird.
The whole point in the rewire is to use large gauge and have it directly pulling from the battery, with a relay in there to control it.

Yeah its kinda weird ill take pics tonight.

I bet there is a blown fuseable link or burnt wire in the circut and thats how the last person got the fuel pump to run. Not a good choice tho... no fuse or relay.

What pin is it wired to in the ecu?

Its wired in to the relay with the metal shield its hard to get a good pic.

The mpi relay. then ya its prolly taking power from that. You could try cutting the wire and see if the pump still runs.

If you cant start the car.. Id leave the wire there and try it when the car runs.

That and check continuity between the fuel pump and the fuse box and ecu.

All the fuel pump needs is live and ground right, im thinking of running a fused wire from the battery to a kill switch then to the pump. Will use a relay operated by the ignition though.
That way all this hack wiring will be bypassed

Walbro now fitted

Planned my intercooler routing today hoping the intercooler is big enough cause its nice and shiney and my evo one is beat up.

One quick question, has anyone had couplers blown off using t clamps on non beaded pipes?

I have a 1 pipe end that does not have a bead and it never blows off, even if I spike to 25psi. just make sure shes tight! but to avoid giving you bad advice I suggest you get the pipe bead welded or buy the tool to crimp your own bead.

Made more progress today all the intercooler piping is done and the bracket for the I/c is welded to the rebar.
and I hooked up all my fuel lines and afpr.

Ok so everything is ready for me to start it up, going to get a good camera to video it lol, will probably do it next sunday.

on another note I need public opinion are pillar pods rice? There is one in my car and im debating whether or not to use it, im edging towards rice myself.

They are only rice if they are redundant. Ie a boostgauge on a honda.

I think it would be good it was a single pod but its got 3 and I only need one gauge, ill keep it up for sale.

Friday is the start day fingers crossed.

Pillar pods can be rice but I'm more worried about the 'Heat' factor. I'f you constantly watch your gages then perhaps the pillar is a good idea, if you like the clean look and don't want/need to constantly monitor your gages (cuz you log everything in link anyways) then the instrument cluster pod is the best choice IMO.

I like my pillar gauges for boost and wideband. Cause the stock boost gauge sucks and I like to be able to see what those things are doing.. I dont always have a laptop logging and Id go nuts not knowing how much boost or vacuum im making.. And if the car isnt running smooth.. The wideband usually gives me an idea why. As far as the third gauge.. I dont know what i would put there. If I ever wanted to run meth.. aybe a pressure gauge to tell me the line pressure after the meth pump????? or an aftemarket knock gauge? Maybe id find a round 2inch clock to use up the third space!

Eather way... Alot of cars are comig out with them as stock gauges. there definatly not rice.. And if someone says it looks rice.. Telk them its your car fuk em! lets race!

Would be nice but we don't have that option. For us it's the middle vent, the thermostat dials or radio

Jay, water temp is a good third one.

Oil pressure, since we're already on the subject of stock gauges that suck


If it's functional (ACTUALLY functional, not "but the carbon fibre fuel door saves weight!" bullshit), it's not rice. You need gauges to monitor your car if you're modifying it.

Ill have to think on that.
So I hooked everything up and turned the key to just before before ignition and the fuel pump runs constantly and I noisy as hell is this normal?

Sounds like it is wired different then stock. Did you install the insulator around the pump?

It does have some suspect wiring it should prime for a few seconds then stop right.
And no to the insulation at the moment.

No they dont prime like every other car. Pump is only active during crank and run.

Would it hurt to have it running like this just to fire it up and fault find the problem once I know I get fuel to the motor?

Through link mine is setup just like yours Kirk.

I don't think it's a huge issue, one of the reasons they made it like that was for fire reasons, at least that's what I was told.

Right on ill leave it for now until the rewire.

Been a while since she was on all fours.

SHE LIVES!!!!!!!!!!

frack yeah! Congrats buddy!

Cheers exhaust next

Great feeling ain't it. well done.

I did however forget the oil feed line for the turbo oops

Umm.... yeah that one's important

And rust proofed the passenger side of the engine bay without my approval.
exhaust was welded up tonight, 3 inch down pipe and cat then 2.5 to the muffler.

I made the mistake of not bleeding the brakes while my engine was out and no the prop valve is leaking so I have to take it out and see why.
horrible job.

Did you flare the lines yourself? May be a bad flare. May just not be tight enough.

Reflared it and it still leaked.

Do you have a pic of your flare and where it is leaking?

Its when I push the brake pedal it squirts back towards the pipe through the fitting(which I changed when I reflared).

which fitting are you using?

Reusing the old ones non of the others have leaked.

Ok just checking
I reused as well, but I had bought the ones ziggy had and wasn't satisfied with how they went on.

Im wondering if there is a crack in the thread wall or something

Doubt it. Get some pics of your flare and the prop valve.

Will do gonna have a hell of a time getting it off

Must have been a bad flare I used a stock line and it didnt leak, went to cut it to length and broke the 3/16 adapter.

That's typical. I always keep a spare 3/16.

Decided to replace all my lines with premade, brakes aren't something im willing to gamble with.

Brakes still holding up progress

what's wrong now?

Look in the help me section, brakes wont bleed.

Amongst all the annoyance I bought some goodies a omp steer8ng wheel to take over from my classic momo I've had for a few years. Also a apparent short shifter we will have to see on that one. Also grabbed a master cylinder just incase.

And we are back on track bled the cylinder, bled the brakes pedal is stiff as you would like. May change once I start the car but I live in hope.
also fitted the exhaust it was very snug and a portion of it is touching the car should I be worried??????.

Which part of the car, maybe a picture would help

The tunnel just before the axle

there's a heatshield there usually, is yours still there?

I would suggest wrapping that part of your exhaust

The exhaust shield is gone, isnt there some heat wrap you can buy at home depot?

yeah there may be, pretty sure canadian tire has it too DEI is the company you are looking for

Where the exhaust crosses the driveshaft at the rear makes me feel uneasy. It is fairly close indeed.

Ok so I spoke too soon we have a clutch problem. It doesnt engage enough and wont pick a gear im thinking the push ros needs adjusting

Probably a good start.... where does your release fork sit?

Don't know this is my first time dealing with this kind of thing

You just need to look at it. Does it sit to the passanger side, drivers side or centre.

I stuck my hand down there and I can move it left and right about 5mm and its really slack. Going to rebleed the whole lot inc the master and see how that goes.

So with the clutch and idle issue the car has turned into a winter project, I was hoping to drive it through some snow this year but no point rushing, I want it right not shite.

Bought some more goodies, clear headlights and corners, fender flares and some 15inch cragar steelies off a jeep

I am curious to see the flares!

As soon as they arrive I'll mock them up

Finally got my ass in gear and put some lights up today.




And here are the clear lights

Wheels arrived and im very happy with them. Although my buddy wants to trade for his ,what would you do?

Keep the black ones, they flow with the styling of the car much better then the 5 stars. just my $.02

Are those wheels steel? How heavy are they?

They are steel,not really that heavy tho, my fds are way lighter but they are only about 14lb I think.

Motivation kicked in, that and finally installing lights in my garage.
Axles are out and im ready to pull the tranny.
the slave has been rebuilt and a new master cylinder has been fitted.
A good night so far

Pulled the tranny and apart from the tob clip been broken nothing seems wrong. I do have 2 differant t.o.b's though and am not sure which to use.
I have added a washer to the new pivot ball just to be safe.

Installed my other throttlebody and moved away from the engine bay.
Cleaned up my struts that will be used for thw coilovers I will have to paint them I'll be be using metalcast paint so im limited with colours.



then I decided to check out the hacked up wiring under the dash. Wish I haven't lol.

ooh looks like a fancy security system

Its all ripped out now thank god.

These arrived today.
I also got tyres for the wheels

What car are they for and do you mind telling how much you paid for them

I bought them off kijiji for 125. They are off a late 80s corolla if im been completely honest I wish they were a tad bigger. But they will work

That's good, all the ones I have seen were 200+

That's why I risked it lol.
The tranny is back in the car now so I should be able to try it out tomorrow

Ok so the clutch dissengages, how it goes once its moving I guess I will have to find out another day

Installed the ground controls and agx's and am very disappointed with how low the go(or dont go as it were).
So I will be "modifying" the perches so they will sit lower but still be adjustable so I can raise if needed.
No pics of late due to breaking my phone

Old wheel gap



New wheel gap

Get some whole car pictures in asap, great job on dumping the bitch!

I very nearly ditched the wide 15s and flares for my fds then realised how dull that would make me.

So are you rolling the fenders too?

If I go ahead I will roll and pull them but my fds look pretty good too.

I know the steelies are heavy... But i like the look of them better. theres a white 2g on dsmtuners facebook that runs white steelies.

I so agree!

Plus they have bigger tyre which will totally compensate for the stiff springs and lack of strut travel...... Right.....

The jeep rims are the right choice.

Yeah agreed, I like the jeep rims.
I guess you enjoy the stiff ride more than I do cause we went the opposite way with our suspension choices

Yeah haha I can live with it for a while. Just want to build something "cool" before I move on to newer platform.

Installed my wide band and decided to fix more of the hacked wiring wish me luck.

Got some progress done on the wiring, I plan on making a housing now under the stereo to hold my boost gauge, wideband (same size as a turbo timer) and the in cabin boost controller I just bought. I want to have it so only the nob is showing.

Had to stop working santa's north pole train is coming!!!!!!

Santa wasn't on it but the music was good. Fish and chips then back to the car.

Made this today after the family fun, not bad for out in the cold (heated garage means nothing when you cant make noise in it)for my wideband, turbo timer, boost gauge and boost controller

Did some more work to the fascia and mocked up the front bumper and lip.

That lip matches up nicely with the front bumper!

I like the old school look of the gauge holder.

Thanks I have plastidipped it black

Pretty happy with this

Omp wheel and nrg quick release hub installed.

My newest purchase.

Make sure you take before and after with lots of profiles I want to see how it turns out.
What did that run you?

Will do its was 150 used

That's good, doesn't look very used

LOL after trying to find one locally it looks like you can rent it out.

Yeah he used it once.
I was thinking of renting it out as it goes.

Fitted my new boost gauge and had my first go at pulling my rear fenders.

before


After

What size tires are those?

195/55r15 why do you ask,

Because you rolled the fenders, I figured you were putting on wider tires, but they are just offsetted differently.
Are you going to run some wide tires? you could probably fit 245 or bigger in there now.

The wheels are only 7 inch wide. Like you say its the offset thats crazy.

Sitting on bumpstops gonna need fender flares there is too much gap

your tires on the wrong side

Theres a nice 2g on dsmtuners facebook. All white with white steelies sticking out like that. Looks sharp! flares would be the icing on the cake .. I think.

Just gotta find the right flares. I need some 240sx ones to try.

The datsun 240 flares are the ones you are looking for.

I have found some non ebay ones for 200 shipped or 300 for carbon fibre ones shipped. What to do??????

They are pretty dinky, carbon fiber isn't going to make much of a difference.

Yes but carbon fibre is sexy...fact and it would contrast nicely with a carbon fibre hood

Have you gotten a hood yet? They are not the easiest thing to find.

Nope came to my senses and ordering fibreglass ones.

Gonna need bigger flares than what I ordered. I bought some 15x9 wheels. Im not sure what they are but they look like holeshot pros bit they are a 1 piece.
They look like these.

How much do they weigh?

Not alot at all very light.

Ok so I have 3 pairs of flares ordered, 2.25,2.5 and 3inch. Just have to decide which wheels to run, I would prefer to run the american racing wheels as dailys and the unknown super offset lippys for shows and what not.

I finished my remote start alarm today but havent had chance to try it and ran the wires for the fuel pump upgrade.

The rims you have are Jeep gamblers that are 15x8 I believe.

Which rims the black are 15x7 the others are 15x9

I googled it and your right thanks

These are getting shipped to me tomorrow bc racing coilovers, the diy approach with the agxs wasnt going to cut it.
In saying that I will have to mod these slightly to fit as they are for a evo8-9

The rears are pretty easy to do as long as you have a welder.
I am curious to see how your front bolts are, the Evo 10 bolts are pretty large and mess up the camber.
You will need some spacers in there too.

I was wondering if I could heat and shape them???? If not I heard you can use the stock strut brackets for spacers.

I would go with spacers, heating shocks is a terrible idea.

I would remove the shock cartridge first but I will probably just use spacers.

Tried in vain to get my alarm working but gave up lol.
So I rewired my fuel pump and installed my interior.

Coilovers have been shipped with replacement shock canister in the works.
3 pairs of fender flares have been shipped.
Alarm suddenly decided to start working after I bought a new one(kept recipt no biggy)
And I think I have figured out my maft settings.

All in all things are looking good

1 of 3 packages came today.

Its really starting to take shape now I cut up my old struts to use the strut mount and welded it in the evo strut, im not super confident in my welds so I may go back and drill and tap a bolt in there just so I can be %100 im sure its fine but better to aire on the side of caution.

I also go my tyres mounted and bolted those up and attached the fender flares I'm really happy the way these turned out, I have to play with the fronts a bit though the way they sit just doesn't flow with the rears but I need to install the front coilovers before I can play with camber.

Opinions welcome.....











[img]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h13/boysettingfires/20140112_151045_zps57c95b16.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h13/boysettingfires/20140112_151032_zps42c53339.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h13/boysettingfires/20140112_151019_zps8d755340.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h13/boysettingfires/20140112_151012_zps55c7a46b.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h13/boysettingfires/20140112_150505_zps4c64871e.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h13/boysettingfires/20140112_124327_zps4b6c5c68.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h13/boysettingfires/20140112_123425_zps1163a7ad.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h13/boysettingfires/20140112_121621_zpsd5cdce6e.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h13/boysettingfires/20140112_121611_zps58854182.jpg[/img]

I see your vision for your project and I like where your going with it.

Good work on the shocks I figured that the bottom mount would just rest inside the u joint, but I am guessing that's not the way it works.
In the stock evo suspension that was the way it went.
Did you pick up those other camber plates?

In the back of my mind I was thinking what if I want to return them to stock but it may get redone that way.
Glad you all like the way its going.

I like it.!

It's looking pretty mean.

What are your thoughts on colours?
I will probably get it dipped I was either thinking flat black with gloss accents.
Or panda white with black hood,flares,roof and spoiler.

Go with the Panda theme, if it sucks then "murder" it out.

panda looks pretty good, I goofed around with photoshop when I was planning on dipping my car.
When I did mine though I did it like the sushi delivery car and liked it, flares was the one thing I was missing to complete the look.

Pics??

I didn't think I had them but you are in luck, I found them!
Just a warning I am not an expert photoshopper and my cars paint is really uneven making my job even more difficult.

hey that's my old Spyder

Bryan, your DSM looks better in black...so bad ass

Yeah I think that was my favorite out of all of them, haha yeah I figured you would comment when you saw it!

Was gonna say I recognize that 2g. Lol

So one front coilover installed, 2 new holes drilled and walla it fits.
The ups man turned up with my new shock canister. So I can rebuild the other front tomorrow.

Should have angled your camber plates so you can do Camber & Caster adjustments I do like how it is coming along though

So replacing the front Shock canister is turning out to be a big job the mount wouldn't unscrew so I had the cut out the old canister, and the collar are seized up too sigh......
I have the mount soaking in petrol as we speak hoping to shift some of the rust and corrosion because I could only get the new one screwed in halfway.

Ok so both fronts are on, replacing tje front blown shock cartridge was a f#@king nightmare alot of cutting, swearing and knuckle grazing.
But its done now and the car is back on 4 wheels, the fronts are a little higher than they were with the old set up but I will lower the flare to accommodate that and if I feel like going even lower ill shorten the bump stop and it has another inch to go.
I also found out my wheels are not jeep gamblers but a deep dish version made by american eagle.

Hope fully the last update untill its on the road.

Well as my luck would go the site I was working on finished and I got the "call the office" which means i'm sat at home till work picks up or I get accepted to go out west.
Sighhhhhhhhhh.

I have since landed a job in Alberta which means I will be away 2 out of every 3 weeks, god knows when this is ever getting on the road. Anybody want to buy it lol.

Oh come on! I'm lucky if I get time once every three weeks to turn a wrench.. you can't sell her now she's just beginning to take shape!

Congrats on the job though

Theres a guy on here sometimes that works in Albrta... I think his name is Sven.. Lol


He owns a DSM here in kingston and only sees it 2 weeks of the year.!

Wow lol well the 1st week I have off I will be driving it.

So its all buttoned up and ready to just need to add some camber to stop some rubbing get it registered tomorrow and I will be driving

big fan of the fender flairs, they really do work with your 1g, hope to see you at some meets this year.

Holy frack she only bloody drives!!!!! And thanks to Stephan Tanchak doesn't stall either. A shout out to everyone who helped on the boards or text support, I really appreciate it a rebuilt throttle body and a new ics and I reckon She will be ready to fail her first etest

Should pass the emissions test as long as its got a working cat. Remember, my 1G nearly passed the first time with a super, super old cat, an exhaust with many large holes burned through, boost leaks and the worst idle surge.

Was my pleasure to help! Will idle mint once those few problems are solved.

Car looks great in person, and will be awesome once it gets painted. Could also use some wider rims to accommodate for super wide tires. Would look hella mean!

Lol I cant justify wider rims silly offset will have to do lol. If it fails the etest there is always the drugstore alcohol trick. Worked for my beater.

Went to a local car/rice meet last night and the car got some positive comments. Wtf is that, nice car bro etc etc. My favorite being (thinking I cant hear him) its a bit beat up he must drift it lol.

hehe nice car "bro"

I did giggle a bit lol.

Since I cant get it on the road on these days off I figured I can at least buy parts and this is the first part.

Where you working in AB Kirk?
I'm up in Mildred Lake now.

I have a feeling I'm going to feel your pain about not getting my car done on my days off.

Surmount 2 buddy, the week off is great but the time at work stops all the fun lol.

LOL, I can't complain yet, been doing orientation and training.

EDIT: Didn't realize all my certs where pretty much useless here because they are OSSA.

Ok house is bought now there are no more excuses, the stupid ecs or whatever is going to be replaced on my next days off as well as a new knock sensor and some seals to rebuild my throttle body. Once they are in its etest time.
Here she is in her new home.

Congrats on the house man.
Get the car finished now

You still at Surmont 2? I've been up here for a month now.

Yeah still here. The l.o.a is keeping me here lol.

So embarrassing moment my knock sensor wasn't plugged in, I swapped it anyway because it was in bad shape non of the silicone looking stuff was present so not a bad thing. Going to change the seals on my spare throttle body tomorrow and get that put on.

Changed out the seals in my spare throttlebody and am in the process of swapping it out. The spare one seems to stick shut a little bit when it springs shut anything to Worry about???

There's a little stopper screw to adjust so that it doesn't stick. Be sure to readjust the TPS after doing that.

You don't use your idle switch to keep the butterfly open.... make sure the throttle bore is clean and not binding. then set the idle switch and tps and Biss.

Also make sure the throttle plate is installed the correct way. The edges aren't squared; they slightly taper. If it's upside-down, the taper goes the opposite way. When it snaps shut, it digs in a bit and makes it hard to open.

It was because the idle switch wasn't installed .
I marked everything before I took it apart so we will see how it goes tomorrow.

Your idle switch should make no difference.... well at least mine doesn't. just did mine last week.

I actually had the shaft in backward the first time and the plate upside down and it stuck. reviewwd my my pictures of disassembly and found my flaw

I know I have said this before but now I have hit my limit, the idle issue is still there and now I have developed 3 new oil leaks just from moving it from one house to another. And the baby is due in october its shitty but I think its time to put a halt on project cars and find something drivable. I know the issues are minimal but I have to move on its a shame too because I finally collected all the parts I have bought lol.
The for sale thread will be up soon.
Sad day indeed.

P.osted for sale
Been on kijiji for 1 hour and had 3 kijiji spammers allready

lol that's kijiji for ya.

PS: I can buy it, but I'm in Nigeria at the moment. I will send you a cheque from the National bank of Nigeria and all you have to do is send it overseas to get the confirmation code. I will even throw in a 1000$ for having kept it for me. I have a wealthy king as a father lol

Haha those are the best ones.

Would it be worth while me posting a wanted add for Services? I would be more than happy to pay for someone the fix the leaks and get it ready for a etest.
And I have one more temp sticker left so I could drop it off.
Thoughts???

yeah I would do that, better option

I have posted in the "help me" section and the "wanted" section so lets see if it brings results.

On off on off on off, spured on by the fact that if I cant find the problems then somebody has graciously offered to take the car and fix my problems for me its semi back on, so I got the car on jack stands took the exhaust off and put it in the garage cleaned all the oilly areas,left it for a hour and found a leak in the oil geed pipe , stuck a better jubilee clip on, hopefully fixed, then found out my oil pressure sensor is loose, I think it was hit when my alt belt broke because its been bent, tightened that up and hopefully fixed, then tightened up the transfer drain by a good quarter turn. I will put my other exhaust back on it and hopefully I will have eliminated some leaks.
Fingers crossed.

She has a safety and etest whoop whoop.
She still has a few issues of which I will touch on in another post, but she is staying.
Huge thanks to lucian for all the help inc lending me a control a as mine snapped on its test drive the day before its test :S

Congrats - that's amazing news! I saw the pic on Lucian's IG - happy to see another badass 1G on the road

Good news man! I wish I could have stuck around longer last night and met you/your car. Glad to hear all went well

Replaced all my throttlebody gaskets and pcv valve and my wot afr numbers are way better my idle is still suspect but other than that she runs great

Spoke too soon anything close to 15psi and it runs rich.
Could it be the stock boost controller?
If I can get hold of a compressor im gonna check for leaks tonight.

Might actually be a good time to pull the plug on this DSM.

Not a prayer its on the road now its staying there.

How rich? I have to agree with Reza. It seems as though you forgot the basic in in your race to mod your car. Can you put it back to stock and make it run properly? Basic mechanical issues can not be tuned out. Get your basics done first. Then worry about 15psi of boost.

Dont get me wrong im not trying to throw a tonne of boost at it, I only have the stock boost controller on it.
Its too far gone to go back to stock. And it really isn't a complex build.

So lets see hamilton roads bend/snap these control arms.

I also found a leak in the vac hose that goes to the bov

So the idle is better and the idle afr's are great but I'm still running rich at wot so she's going away for winter and I will be getting dsm link and s/d.
No more guessing with semsors etc.

Well I opted for ostrich/jackal instead of link but the result will be the same.

Ok so talon ver2.0 has started with a removal of the turbo timer for a boost controller and my old bov which I found too big for a new to me old school hks unit.

Got rid of some rust and gave roof a quick rattle can job to get her through winter.
Also everything came for the ostrich piggy back. After looking at the hacking required and the quality of the pigtails i have decided to buy the harness.

Looks good Kirk, what ever you do do it good ... not many of us (DSMers) left in this world

Well the roof in all honesty is a rough job, once she is running like a dream then she will be allowed a good body.

Coming along glad you are taking care of the roof.

Well it will be halted for a while my wife is having contractions as we speak

and you are calmly checking out the DSM forum??

Of course lol, only small contractions, we are in the hospital now haha, there isn't much i can do while we are just waiting.

Got a free hour today and put everything together ready to drive on a tweeked base tune.

Brain fart moment, load the ostrich up with a tune, fire the car up and it dies on its arse....... frack it......beer open. .....watch some football(soccer)
Realized i had put the plug wires back thinking the cylinders are 1.2.3.4 instead of 4.3.2.1.
Oo well I'll play again tomorrow lol

Are you sure your ecu works?

neither of those are the right order, it's 4,1,2,3.

I mean as your looking at the cylinders.
And I have no idea if the ecu works I see no reason why it wouldnt.

Oh haha, yeah that's right. 4321camgears

Changed them round still didn't fire up, but I'm off back to work tomorrow so I will check it out then.

I have been thru 2 ecus now. And gonna end up just socketing my ecu.

It ran before the ecu swap? what map sensor are you using?

It ran before but rich at wot, i have a omnipower 4 bar map sensor. This is what its doing.

Unplug your isc and try it and see if it does anything diferant.

Im out the door for 8 am tomorrow and wont be back for 2 weeks, but stephan is doing my tuning, so if it doesn't run i will just trailer it to him so he can set it up and put a tune on it. The car ran with maft so im confident its a tuning issue.

Update
Its at stephans getting tuned after finding problems with a leaky biss screw and having to buy another fuel pressure regulator as my aeromotive one was leaking.

Went tuning

Got lots of phantom knock which we believe its because i have a leaky injector seal.

I have a good set of fenders for the spring and will need a new hood but i got sick of rusty/bad looking front end so i gave it a quick cheap spray bomb.

Spray bomb turned out really good

So Jackal i up and running?? Awsome! Im still tryng to get a working Eprom ecu!

It works right now, but it's not done because of the injector seal. Telltale was the wet intake runner and puddle at the back of the intake manifold.

I don't personally recommend Jackal though as it's very limited to what you can do. For a simple build, sure, but that's it.

What makes you believe that it's phantom knock? If the cylinder is leaning out, and not getting the required fuel due to a leaky seal its most likely real. I've never seen an injector seal cause phantom knock...

Ask stephan lol i am simply repeating what he told me, something about a crazy amount of knock at low revs.

It was creating a big boost leak. Whenever I've had a big boost leak, I get knock that doesn't make sense.

So its seeing too much fuel then? I've also never experienced 'rich knock'. My car will make clean, knock free pulls with 9.x:1 ARFs.

Simple things like this is why I gave up trying to tune other people's cars. A car needs to be mechanically sound before it can be tuned. That includes boost leak test, new properly gapped+correct heat range spark plugs for the boost you plan to run along with fresh wires, car must be mechanically on time along with base timing set to 5*. Proper octane fuel for the desired boost. Base fuel pressure set, fuel system up to par with desired boost. Working cooling system. Also proper, working sensors (Wideband, map) so your not blind tuning. And again, the car must be mechanically sound, everything nice and tight, so there's no rattle's/noises that can trigger the knock sensor. In my eyes, if any of those things aren't addressed its a waste of time to start tuning.

Not rich knock, the afr's were tried as rich as around 11.5 on spool up and 4-5psi it would still jump straight to 32* knock.

There were a couple boost leaks that I had to fix, and I definitely hear you on that. However, I really enjoy tuning when everything checks out mechanically. When I had the fuel rail off I noticed that they weren't the correct seals, so Kirk ordered them. I figured that they would have an effect, but thought we could give it a shot to see what happens.

Other than that there really isn't anything else that it could be except base timing.

As rich as 11.5? You should be richer than that. 11.5 when the boost is coming on is way too lean, especially if you're just starting a tune. Does he have meth? If not you shouldn't be going for 11.5 at any point in the tune even if running 94 gas. If you only went as rich as 11.5 then I'd be willing to bet the knock is real, even if the amount may or may not be accurate.

Hope your not tuning your car yourself lol. Just kidding, but not really

During spool up you can go much leaner like 13.5:1 and still be safe as long as it richens up approaching full boost.

I wasn't referring to the low end spool up, I was referring to approaching full boost as you mentioned, which on small turbo (like a 14b/16g) is nearly one and the same.

My main point was that if you're just starting a tune you should be building things up and not just diving into the deep end. What you can or can't do with a tune in the end is a moot point if you can't even get a base tune down.

As for tuning myself - I'd be willing to bet I can tune as well as anyone on these boards.

I like to tune for a lean spool and lean up top too. Heck, my Hx40 spooled insanely lean with much more timing and boost levels on straight 94 (meth doesn't kick in till about 18PSI) and, there's no knock.

What ever... It can fully tune your timing and fuel tables.. And give you controllable threshholds and few inputs and out puts.... Everything anyone really needs.. Upgrade to warewolf. And its par with linkv3 but with true SD.

So warewolf runs a MAF IAT and MAP. Because that is the only way to even close to true Speed Density....although even the Engineers who invented SD can't actually make true SD.

It uses the same SD as any other full stand alone. AeM, megasquirt, haltech.

None of which are TRUE SD. Even the Manufacturers have added a MAF to their sd systems just to get alittle closer to TRUE sd. True SD needs to measure Air mass, air temp and pressure all at the same time and everywhere in the air steam. True sd is like Santa really being able to deliever gifts to all the kids in the world on one night.

Pretty sure Warewolf and link all calculate sd the same way.

Link is still converted signals for the most part.. Reprogramed stock ecu function... Dsmap changes the way the stock ecu works. Its more plug(dial in) and play. Link still needs a ton of calibrations. Either way is fine for most dsmers. There isnt really anything one can do better then the other as far as limits go. Once you get going.

All ecm are converted signals. Maybe dsmap and link and aem and haltech are pretty equal. But NONE have TRUE SD because it doesnt phucking exist.

HKS VPC is true SD in a box! lol quit arguing, it's just another method using the same principals.

No its not. It might be in a box but it isnt true SD. True sd is is buried right beside the Holy Grail, The Easter Bunny and The Tooth Fairy.

Ok.. Ok... Its technicly not "true SD" jeeze.. Thats the term the designer uses to compare to the other stand alones and piggy backs. Alot of ems companys use the term "true SD". From what I can understand, dsmap uses the actuall signal from a map sensor based on the voltage, where link takes the map sensor reading and converts it to something the stock ecu can understand. Somthing like that. Im not gonn argue, the arguement is as old as Dsmlink is. Lol.

You cant argue the arguement. Tuning software is tuning software all can achieve the same goal. To manipulate a signal to whatever you choose it to be. Dsmap is no better then link and link is no better the dsmap. Neither have TRUE SD no one does.

Whar other people are use to and find more user friendly isn't what makes any better then the other.

Daewooooo!

I agree. Tuning is tuning...The reason I push dsmap is cause they dont market it as much as ecmlink. And alot of people put it down not knowing what it is cabable of. Someone has to premote them.. The only reason I prefer dsmap over Link, is cost. Altho, I myself found link alittle more challenging to get dialed in.

No you bashed link because it isnt true sd. And neither is dsmap. When you find true sd let me know I can sell it to the masses and we can be rich. Till then dont promote dsmap as true sd. Cause it aint.

Double post

Sooo back to the build I had some time on it yesterday and did a ghetto alignment with some cement blocks, string and a tape measure the fronts were out by a lot.
Then installed a 3 point solenoid which i am currently figuring out.

So glad i chose a hks bov that sound is addicting heres a clip.

Glad you like the BOV!

I love it way better than the ebay sqv i used to have