Project: Save Me

Intro: http://www.ca.dsm.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=441452#Post441452

I'll use this to post some pics on the work I am doing. Do not comment on my pink worklight.

Uggh. Different Brakes and Rotor Size. Yay.



Yup. It was CV grease. What a chunk missing!


Culprit. What is this thing? All lines to it are cut. It got bent down and ripped the boot.



Here is the cancer that is the front rad support. Drivers side bad almost all the way to the bend, passenger seems to be in better shape.



And the cover for the tranny/engine mount:


Tomorrow:
Pulling rad and starting to remove the tranny.

Wow, you've got some work ahead of you.

So..... the previous owner went through the trouble of painting his calipers, but didn't bother putting the same brakes on both sides?!

That could be a new record for previous owner frack ups...

EVAP Evaporative Emission Control System

Haha, that's brutal! I imagine you have some brake steer?

Thanks Alex!




I did not feel any, granted, I was not driving her too hard.

Am I gonna have a problem trying to get a matching 2 piston caliper and larger rotor on there? Are the mounting bolts the same >.< Uggh..

Question. With the center member removed (nothing supporting front engine mount and once I take the tranny out, is there any reason I can't support the other side of the engine by placing a 2x10 across the shock towers and tow strap to support the engine? Not concerned about the 2x10 not supporting the weight, more worried about the the downward pressure on the bolts.

I want to be able to put the wheels back on and roll the car out of the garage if necessary.

You will probably have to buy both but other than that it's all the same mounting holes, just replace the rotors and pads on both sides though.

Thanks. Brakes will need to wait. They work as is.

My budget and time for this year is gonna get soaked up by the tranny/clutch, Front Support and Rust prevention of the entire car.

Seen quite a few people hang the motor from a 4x4 over the strut towers. There's also a device sold for this

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html


For now though, it's still supported by the end mounts and the rear roll stop though.

Thank you sir. To save a few, I have a nice never used 4x4 laying around.

Progress continues. It's slow. I keep pondering an AC delete. Summers are getting hotter, and I am getting older. I also get distracted by a small rust spot, so I wire wheel it and rust check it. Anyway...

Tranny drained.



Rad Removed. Spilled coolant from lower rad hose. I always forget the lower rad hose.



Here is that welded rebar I keep talking about. Only thing holding up that center member.





Engine bay getting empty. (room to clean!)


So tomorrow, I need to pick up a 32mm socket. Time to tackle the removal of axles.

Question of the day.
Once I am done with tranny removal and fix of clutch / flywheel / tranny. I will NOT be able to put the center member back up. From what I see, it's only function is for the front engine mount and protect the tranny. Will I be ok to drive to the body shop without center member put back?

I personally wouldn't risk it, out of all the mounts the front one is the one that does the most work. Unless you super granny drive it all the way, any load on that engine is going to make it twist like crazy. I would get it towed

Good progress so far



Careful with this; your axle nut is what holds your wheel bearings together. If you have your axles out of the hubs, even rolling the car in and out of the garage can cause the bearing to separate.


Driving to and from the body shop without a front roll stop would be doable, but as Bryan said, you need to drive like a grandma. It's one of only two mounts used to prevent the engine from twisting under torque, so be really easy on the gas pedal and shifter.

I leave my axles right in the hub and unbolt the lower control arms, I find it much faster and easier than dealing with stupid ball joints. Plenty of room to get the axles out of the tranny in this manner. Hell the last time I had my motor out I didn't even take the wheels off.

I agree, driving in granny mode would be ok.

Ah right. Once tranny is out, I could replace the CV axle and just suspend the tranny end using coat hanger. Then again, maybe I should just hurry and get it fixed.



This sounds easy. The lower ball joint nut came loose easy enough. The lower control arm one is being a b**ch.

Anxious to get in to see the clutch and flywheel.

On the brakes, without having looked at stock brake setups in a long time, my first thought is the single piston side is a fwd setup & the dual piston is the awd setup. Therefore getting a 2 piston caliper & rotors shouldn't be a problem.

Charles, if you want, I have a set of working 1G front 1-piston calipers with good rotors and pads that I would donate to the cause. You may need different front soft lines to run them (as 2Gs use a banjo, 1Gs directly thread in) but it's a pretty simple switch/adapter/etc.

Let me know if you want them and I can get you a quote on shipping from Richmond Hill or if someone wants to pick them up on a trip to Toronto (looking at you Mike Eng) then that works too.

PM me if you're interested.

Lol why me?

No road trips planned in the next few months.

But that can change overnight.

It used to seem like you were coming to Toronto all the time. You're also the only other person I know from the board from Ottawa although there are a bunch of Kingston/Quinte DSM'ers who aren't THAT far from Ottawa.

Much appreciated Salomon. I will let you know, but right now, these work. I would like to find the proper 2g. Larger rotors and 2 piston. If the wallet allows, I may look at some 4 piston setups. 500 hp is not far away.

So tonight was frustrating.. (doesn't help the weather just keeps getting hotter). And why can't people use Antiseize on every bolt under the car?!!! Would make life easier.

The bolts for the plate that connects under body to center member were a pain x 5. Too tough to do with regular socket. So I had to use breaker bar to remove completely. I then cut the rebar and removed the center member 1.5 hr.

On to Axle removal. I started on passenger side, trying to undo from the lower ball joint. &*@#$^ thing wouldn't separate. I tried undoing lower control arm from the back. There is no room to move a breaker bar. After 2 hours, I gave up. (I even removed the caliper to try and make room to pry)

I moved on to the driver side. This time, I removed the fork from LCA, then I went straight for the bolt at back of LCA. Luckily breaker bar cleared oil pan. Poof. Arm drops. Then i try to remove the carrier bearing. I want to beat the living &*@&*# out of the person who thought those bolt locations were a good idea. After a lot of fighting I remove the carrier bearing. Axle pops out! 1.5 hrs.



I go back to passenger side and stare at it for awhile. It's too late at night to start whacking away at it. I had been applying penetrating oil to it over the few hours in the garage.

This is the annoying LBJ.



Tomorrow I will try either:

#1: Thread the nut flush with top of bolt. Place tip of pry bar flat on top of the nut/bolt and baby sledge it.

#2. Concrete chisel placed in the nook between ball joint and fork to LCA joint. Baby sledge.

And remove the exhaust and transfer case.

Do you have an impact gun?

I can't remember the last time I removed my lower ball joints unless I was replacing them. They're just too much of a pain in the ass.

To avoid having to separate the ball joint, your options are:

1) Do as Jason mentioned, and pop both the lateral arm and compression arm off the subframe.

2) Remove the upper ball joint from the knuckle. I find that ball joint almost always comes out easy, and then you can fold the knuckle away from the car far enough to get the axle out. **Edit: FYI, the caliper will likely have to be removed from the knuckle to get enough space to pull the axle.

#1 is easier if you have an impact gun. #2 is easier if you do not.

Sounds like a frustrating evening. Couple beers, go back swinging tomorrow

Unfortunately... it's an electric impact. It's MASSIVE. The only bolts it has broken loose are the axle nuts. Those lca bolts and nuts.. it couldn't loosen them. Breaker bar was only way to get it started. (The bar was flexing pretty good on driver side lca 2 fork bolts)

I am cleaning all this up and anti-seizing everything!!

Ooo. Question of the day.

CV Axles. Do I:

#1. Send them to Frisby for rebuild?

#2. Get NAPA ones?

If it's one of those Mastercrap electric impacts, yeah you're pretty much screwed for the LCA bolts. I've got a Milwaukee electric impact that has yet to meet a bolt it can't break loose. Expensive as all hell and worth every penny

Anyway, back to more relevant stuff.. I would suggest popping the upper ball joint out. Loosen the nut but don't remove it all the way, then smack the SIDE of the knuckle where the ball joint bolts through. The knuckle should drop a bit (but stay held on by the nut), allowing you to remove it at your leisure

Yup. Mastercrap. (Hey.. their Maximum hand tools are good).. just not their power tools. It was given to me.

I will try your trick. Thanks Jeremy.

No problem!

I use a lot of their stuff too, no worries; most of it works just fine if this is just a hobby. The reason I know you're screwed with that gun is experience

And yeah.. they are seriously huge. Felt like some kinda gun out of Halo.

I have the Mastercrap gun, get yourself a wobble extension and you can get on pretty much any bolt. I also have an impact universal joint that helps in some places.

No need to unbolt any of the ball joints with my method.

Your method works great That is, if a gun can loosen it. universal joint w/ breaker bar makes me a little nervous, but will try an impact one.

I like the idea of not messing with the ball joints. I will go buy something tonight and let you guys know. If can't loosen, I will try Jeremy's upper ball joint trick.

Little trick with the impact is not to just keep it in reverse, alternate back and forth quickly between forward and reverse, quite often it'll loosen the corrosion just enough to break it free.

I guess it also depends which electric impact you have, I know CT has 2 sizes, the smaller one isn't very powerful.

Chuck, I usually just unbolt the upper control arms from the strut towers and pull them down, remove the strut fork bolt, unclip the brake line and bend the whole assembly outwards. That will allow you to slide the axle out of the hub.

No need to mess with the ball joints or lower control arm bolts.

It's not hard to change the cv boot yourself. Just make sure there is no play in the axle by rotating the joint back and forth.

I will examine that option. I just watched Eric the Car Guy ignoring his just let it fail idea.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-S-ofMoWsr0



That will be option #3. The lower control arm method was easy peasy. 2 bolts. Again, the room needed to break bolts loose is not there with the upper control arm.

Eventually though, I want to take the whole assembly out to clean and paint.



This one is the Halo sized digital one. But I just realized I hadn't changed the torque setting from when I put the wheels on. so I think it's set at 100flbs



And of course, now I look online for specs and find this recall >.<
http://healthycanadians.gc.ca/recall-alert-rappel-avis/hc-sc/2012/15958r-eng.php

Get one of these for popping ball joints out. It works beautifully every time.

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/powerfist-ball-joint-separator/A-p8004135e

Doesn't that kill the boot? The ball joint is in great shape.

No that tool won't, a pickle fork can kill the boot though. Although when I used mine it didn't.

You can get a new boot/dust cover if it does get ruined.

See here:

https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=18885&page=1

Ok. Another day from hell. I only expect it to get worse...

Tried the lower ball joint again. No go. Tighten it back up. I then loosen the upper ball join to near the end. I whack and whack... took forever.. but it finally dropped. It's not enough to get the axle out. I go to remove the nut completely to drop the knuckle.. the whole ball joint thread is spinning with it. I had to clamp it using vice-grips (on the solid part of sleeve, not threads) to remove the nut.



I got it off. Cleaned the nut and the ball joint thread. That lock nut goes on nice till it gets to the locking part. I am never going to get that on tight once I get the knuckle back up.

Annoyed.. I move on and try the LCA again. The impact with U-Joint can't do it. I get under the car with a combination wrench and a rubber mallet. I whack away fully expecting the wrench to give. after 5 minutes a creak. few more minutes.. I am getting some movement. Now take the impact to it.. voila. LCA drops!
One end out.



Now on to the inner cv. Nothing. I can't get it to budge. Big flat head, prybar, won't release. Knocked my elbow hard under the car >.< .... As the boot is torn anyway, I pull out the rest of the drive-shaft leaving the inner cup attached to tranny. Figure I'll tackle it another time. (Question: Can I pull tranny with that part still attached and remove after it's out?)

Off to start removing the exhaust. Lugnuts have been used to attached the O2 to Downpipe. Barely room for the socket on the driver side. I manage to get it off with impact. Sweet!

Passenger side bolt is being stubborn. I had to grind down a 1/2 17mm socket to get it in there. Impact won't move it. break out the breaker bar, loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten, I get about 1/4" undone and ...... SNAP. Expletives follow.



I removed the bolt for 1 hangar and then decided to call it quits. I am gonna yank off all the hangars and remove the entire exhaust. (clean and High temp paint black)

I sit there staring at the exhaust manifold thinking.. &^@%#&*^.. I have to get the O2 housing off now.. as I play with the turbo, three of the 4 Manifold to turbo bolts wiggle. I could loosen them with my hand. (part of my slow spool issue?!!).



Guess I will just pull the turbo and O2 housing out together. Of course, I don't have a 12mm 12 point socket for the arp bolts.

I am exhausted (pardon the pun)

Please let tomorrow be better.

Fun times lol. These things always seem to happen when the weather is nice and hot too.

Trans should pass with the cup in, maybe a little tighter but should go no issue.

Sounds like another rough night.

When you get a ball joint spinning with the nut as you're trying to pull it off (which almost always happens), use a clamp to push the knuckle back up. It tightens the ball joint to stop it from spinning without damaging anything. Sorry you resorted to vice grips, but luckily the UCA comes out very easily with the other stuff out of the way.

Not sure why you couldn't get the axle out with the upper ball joint detached. It's worked for me every time. Or were you trying to pull the axle out with the knuckle still attached to the upper ball joint?

I don't know the 2G suspension that well so I'll keep quiet on that topic but with regards to the turbo bolts backing out - get new OEM turbo bolts and new OEM turbo washers. They're super expensive (like $4-5/piece) and you need 2 for each bolt (so 8 total) but they work amazingly well. Never had a turbo bolt come loose with the OEM washers as they are concave/convex and you put them on in such a way that they essentially act like a heavy duty spring pushing out on the bolt and against the manifold, keeping everything snug and tight.

I thought ARP stuff was the cats meow. >.<



I will try that. I think everything is gonna come out for the passenger side. I never looked at how to remove the UCA. I thought you had to remove from inside fender (2 bolts)... but from pictures I see on MOOG.. looks like I can remove bolts from inside engine bay? I'll have to look.





That was with the the knuckle completely off. If I had 1/4 inch more room, it would have come out, but I had it folded as far out as it would go.

That's weird... sorry it didn't work for you.

The UCA bolts on with two bolts going into the engine bay. They're the big 17MM nuts, one at the front and one at the rear of the strut tower. Now that everything else is out of the way, they come out very easily.

When it comes to turbo bolts and parts, OEM is king. ARP turbo bolts are not nearly as good and you'll find a bunch of testimony to that effect online if you go looking for it.

Edit: I should add that I personally have had bad experiences with ARP turbo bolts. I also thought that 'ARP was king' but alas...in most cases Mitsubishi is still king for these cars

+1 to that.

+2 on OEM, the material the ARP bolts are made of don't deal well with the heat. They either loosen themselves, or destroy the threads on the way out, not usually any happy medium.

I've had OEM bolts loosen themselves, but only when not using the OEM washers. Never had a single turbo bolt back out with the OEM washers. I did have every single ARP turbo bolt strip or snap trying to take them out, though. Never again.

I don't personally have one (yet) but a Steck Axle Popper would make removing that axle a breeze.



http://www.amazon.com/Steck-Manufacturing-71410-Axle-Popper/dp/B004IQMR8U

Never had any issue getting mine out but nice find, purchased!

Will also be purchasing one of these! With the DSMs I don't usually have much trouble but I have had lots of trouble on other vehicles (looking at you, 2008 Hyundai Entourage).

You do a lot of looking at stuff

Prybar's or crow bar usually get's it done for me.

Alright.... RAWR!

Every bolt that could require over 350ftlbs of torque did >.<

Had this old husky 1/2" set and a pipe.. if I break that ratchet, I don't care. It took every single beating I put on it and broke everything free. SUPER QUALITY!





I got annoyed with mid exhaust hangers. I'll go buy new ones.



I will spare you all the details between then and this next picture. (Let it be noted, if you leave the cup in, remove the engine mount plate on top of the tranny for some extra clearance. I didn't.. Lots of twisting to get it out.



And now.. I need the audience to diagnose! P.S. The output shaft for the transfer case has in and out play. (1/16 inch?). The clutch is toast (1500 KM according to seller. Mhmmm.) Pressure Plate beat up outside. Seems ok inside. Flywheel looks like some hot spots. But no chunks embeded in the flywheel. Soooo.. NOW WHAT?!!!













[img]http://chucklavoie.com/_projects/dsm/20150730_193929.jpg[/img]

I'm confused.. that flywheel appears to have all three dowels in place.

So...where'd the other one come from?

Your guess is as good as mine. All dowels accounted for. Maybe last tech who changed clutch didnt clean out tranny and it was sitting there.

So, new clutch, pressure plate, fidanza lightened flywheel ... relase fork, pivot ball, jesus clip. Maybe a new slave. Anything else?

I would strongly recommend the ACT Streetlite over the Fidanza. If the old slave wasn't leaking no need to discard it; they're easy enough to change even with everything all bolted up.

Don't forget an OEM throwout bearing

What was the old clutch? Looks like a Fidanza 6 puck, if so I ran one of those as well, was a complete POS.

I would probably pass on the Fidanza aluminum flywheel, they can have driveability issues because of being too light. Get an ACT flywheel, stock is ~18, aluminum ~7-8 & ACT ~12, which is just about perfect.

Anyone worried about the little play in the output shaft? Will I need to get the flywheel stepped before install? There are soo many combinations or pp, flywheel and clutch my head is spinning. For the next few years, max 400whp. Maybe 1 track night with 2 or 3 passes. Other than that, just twisties and highway pulls.

I've always had luck with penetrating oil and a hammer for rubber exhaust hangers.

My output shaft has the same in and out play since 2 years ago when I did my TOB. Haven't seen any issues with it but I'm sure other guys here can clarify that better than me.

Also, the locating pins (dowels) on mine are hollow. I swear the picture you posted of the one you removed through the inspection plate looks solid... Anybody?

I thought it was the guide dowels for the Flywheel to pressure plate (they take all the shearing forces) Those are solid and the size of the dowel I found.

They're the ones from the crank to the flywheel.. I mistaken it for bell housing to block.

Ok. Chime in peeps.

Flywheel: ACT Streetlite
Clutch and PP?

Heard go with ACT2100 PP with SouthBend Clutch.
Aiming to go full ACT if everyone agrees.
Many people say ACT 2600 is not needed for anything under 500hp.

Do I go sprung 6 puck? Full sprung disc? Solid? (I really would like as little chatter as possible). This is street, not strip.

Anyone deal with ExtremePSI? Is there a canadian vendor on here that is reasonable with cost? 30% exchange rate hurts for US purchases.

Sorry, meant to mention that: that play is normal.

I would at least have the flywheel checked; the Streetlite I bought new was stepped properly though.

For a clutch, I can't say enough good things about Southbend. I've used a few different ACT combinations in the past; this year I'm on the Southbend Stage 3 Drag. Their pressure plates have a very light pedal but hold a ton of torque. You'd be fine on a Stage 2 Daily or Endurance for your power and usage goals. With the difference in price, I'd have to recommend the Daily

Edit: Beyond the flywheel, I would avoid ACT. Southbend clutch kit on an ACT flywheel with an OEM throwout bearing

RTM Racing is your friend.

I'm using the Fidanza flywheel. Replaceable plate seemed more appealing to me not having to deal with a machine shop..

And currently the bully "stage 4" sprung 6 puck. And after having read half the board went southbend over the past few years, I think I'll be trying it next.

All oem parts for fork, pivot ball, throwout bearing and retaining clip.

Except most of the time their replaceable plates aren't flat or stepped properly, and you have to machine them anyway. And the plates cost more than the machinist does...

With a good clutch there's no need for the flywheel to get warped to the point of needing machining on any sort of regular basis.

I loved my Southbend/act streetlite combo, very nice streetable combo. I put a good 40k miles on it and a well over a hundred passes down the track.

It's advised not to mix the SB disks and ACT pressure plates as with some revisions there are release issues and as of the last couple years, ACT PP's seem to like loosing fingers.

Extreme PSI is a very good company to deal with, I've spent a few grand with them with zero issues. But as you know the exchange is killer right now.

Ziggy at RTM will take care of you very well.

Southbend clutch here as well, years back ACT was the clutch brand of choice for DSMer's but I think a lot have since switched to Southbend. Have heard of ACT having quality control issues more often over the last few years as well.

I run the TZ/FE setup from Tim Zimmer (www.tmzperformance.com) & the SS pressure plate. Close to stock feel & engagement, run 32psi daily on a 35R, ~25K miles on it so far.

Even if the flywheel is new, measure the step height as even the ACT flywheels can be off from new (ask me how I know ). You'll want the step height at least .610, flat across the whole surface.

Ziggy. You just got an order. Exchange rate hurt >.< extra 160$!!!

Thanks everyone. Stay "tuned"

Now I need to find someone in Ottawa that will fab that rad support. The body shop close by is not getting back to me. >.<

2x3 for the win! lol.

Lucon metals off Merivale Road at slack road for material.. I could weld it in for you.. But I barely have the time.. Should maybe PM me your number.

Thanks Mike. I may do that. I will look at Lucon. But first, will keep fingers crossed that Mitsu still sells MB959301. Lower Headlight support. (not the whole thing).. probably as much as getting one fabbed. >.<

MB959301 should be around $195. IF it is still available..

And yes, exchange is killer right now, I have had to adjust my pricing a few times recently...

Thanks Ziggy There are a few in states (online) for 90$-$100, if I can't get here in Canada.

Alright.. so this has been bugging me a bit. There was a tiny amount of oil at the base of the crank seal. Now that I have the tranny out, how big of a pain is it to change that seal?

I don't see the seal as a part in ASA. >.> I could leave it as it really wasn't much. If I do change it, I kinda wish it was easy easy as this 1.9 VW one >.< https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tzn4OVPSWrU

The rear main seal is actually very easy to change. It sits in a housing that's bolted to the end of the block, so you can pull it off and then swap the seals out on your workbench.

You'll need the seal, as well as the housing gasket, and if you happen to bugger up the housing itself, Ziggy's got that too: Housing.

Frikin Fracken. Called Mitsu. Gave them my VIN.. no go. Told me I need VIN to order parts. I have to call dodge. And we all know how much that will cost.

Gonna drive down and get this sorted. I have all part numbers >.<

You can make up vins if you have the service manual, why not just give them your vin?

Your VIN has a 7 bolt engine; they won't show a rear main seal housing gasket for your 6 bolt.

If you ordered from RTM last night, then it hasn't shipped yet. Call Ziggy and tell him you need to add a couple small things to it and he will accommodate

Found a nice dealership (Kanata). They were amazed the Talon was still around and worked with parts#'s only. So for those that replacing clutch.. here is the status of Mitsu's inventory. Sad state of affairs. The most important top one too

N/A | MD719925 BEARING, CLUTCH RELEASE
$19.01 | MD719602 FULCRUM, CLUTCH RELEASE FORK
$3.06 | MD706185 CLIP CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING RETURN
N/A | MD737767 FORK, CLUTCH RELEASE
$22.32 |MD718077 BOOT, CLUTCH RELEASE FORK
$17.77 / bolt | MD132656 FLANGE, 10x80
N/A | MR187766 CONED DISK, 10.5
$6.82 |MD128901 GASKET,T/C EXHAUST GAS INLET HOLE
$5.93 | MD183243 REAR MAIN GASKET 6 BOLT
N/A | MD343564 REAR MAIN SEAL
$212.11 | MB959301 – PANEL, HEADLAMP SUPPORT, LWR

Turns out, RTM is quick. They just sent out. I missed my opportunity. I will order everything else from ExtremePSI.
This is getting expensive fast!

RTM is definitely quick. They also stock everything on that list except the lower headlamp support, at cheaper prices

No OEM release bearing either from RTM. But I agree. RTM for almost everything! Just don't want to pay for shipping for two different places.

OEM Throwout Bearing

Yeah, what's up? I just got an OEM TOB from RTM last weekend.

I suck at searching apparently I will order from you next time Ziggy!

I always tell people when ordering....if there is something you could not find, put it in the "notes" section of the order. We actually have a fair bit of stuff that we just don't have time to get into the store...and what we don't have, we can usually get.

Thanks Zigggy

So out of boredom now that I am waiting for parts. Tackling some spots of rust. nearly finished the passenger wheel well. (forgot to take before picture, but looked like drivers side)

Before:



After:



Screwdriver Scrape
Wire Wheel
Degrease
Rust Converter
Rust Check Spot Paint
Rubberized Asphalt Undercoating.

I'm gonna need stainless steel lines >.< And clean calipers and rotors.

Yay. Thanks RTM Racing and ExtremePSI!



I expected the clutch to have more material. Looks thin. But hey, thousands of DSM owners can't be wrong.

Now waiting for Mitsubishi. >.<

So I assembled the rear main seal into it's housing. Will mount it tomorrow.

I will bring flywheel in for step check. What should the range be? Sheet that came with clutch said max .03"

I spent some time cleaning the transmission housing and replaced the missing breather cap. I still need to degrease before tackling the wettish spots. But a dremel with mini wire wheel is doing great. I'm not going for perfect aluminum polish. Just cleaned up.



Managed to get the axle cup out of tranny. Realized the trick is a quick jerk, not slow pry. Gotta rebuild that axle too. I think I will do both as the other was spraying black goo also.

I believe the factory specs are .608"-.611" for the step height. I just get mine cut to .610"



Mini sledge is your friend

Well.. the flywheel ranged from .605 to .625. Completely uneven.

She is being machined as we speak!

That's why you check Good stuff

Which SouthBend clutch did you go with?

I have the Stage 2 daily and it has a very light pedal feel but grabs like all hell... It's a beautiful thing!

Stage 2 Daily Glad to hear!

I went to Ottawa Clutch (Bully Clutch) to get my flywheel done (0.6105) .. They were insistent that I use a Bully clutch next time.

Many moons ago, buddy tom used to run their clutch for their R&D. Nothing but nightmares. They said since then (2008) that things have vastly improved and I should go with stage 4.

Not sold. >.<

I currently have their "stage 4" 6 puck sprung clutch and I've been using it now 4 season without any issues. Other than my TOB separating from lack of lubrication (actually, that was my bad for going ape sh!t on engine degreaser from a leaking "t-fitting" from my coolant line at the throttle body. It made it's way into the bell housing and bye bye TOB). Easy fix though...loool

Good choice!

Of all the clutches I've been through this is by far my favorite, and a great price.

If you look at the clutch disk, you'll notice they use Exedy clutch diaphragm's which is a quality piece. Not sure if they use their own friction material or if that is from Exedy as well, but it's atleast a trustworthy brand.

Keep us posted on your progress, it's been a fun build to follow! I wish I had the patience to document mine, now I kind of regret it with all the hours I've put into it.

Little update:

Still waiting for those mitsu parts

In the meantime, I have tackled a few things.

#1. Shopping. I should have bought these ages ago. Clean hands rule.




#2. CV Boot. Cleaned out joint, greased and booted. Done!



#3. Inspect the lower rad support damage. It's bad.





I know there is a member on here in Beleville that can help me, but I need to break in clutch before that kind of highway run. Need something to tide me over for this year and get her done properly next year.

Little sketch...



Lucon Metal Trip. Result:





Test fitting, little cutting. Little drilling.



Apply some rust converter to outside of rotting lower support, spray a ridiculous amount of rust check oil protector inside support and liberally outside to sandwich between new metal sleeve and old lower support.



1/2 Stainless Bolts, Washers and Nuts (with red loctite) in the thicker part of the lower rad support. Much less rot there. This thing ain't going nowhere for awhile and give me something to mount front of cross member to.

Going to seal the ends with Sure Seal Automotive Black Sealant and give it more paint.

Tomorrow tackle airbag peeling cover, deal with rubber mounts for condenser, spend more time straightening fins and maybe some more spit polishing.

'Nother day.. 'nother dollar. I'm guesstimating $150 a day since I started. >.< Tools, Paints, Cleaners, Parts. Ugh.

So I fixed the curling airbag cover.
(TIP! No need to remove the damned glovebox. Just remove the stopper tabs on each side. Swings out of the way.)







Dirty Dirty Dash! >.<

Fitted the newly painted crossmember.



Wet sanded and polished the headlights. (left is after 30 mins 800,1600,plastic polish, right untouched)



I'm gonna keep going till I get most pits out then buy this: XPEL Headlight Protection

Friend of mine brought her steam cleaner and helped out.

Carpets have been steam cleaned, but looks like either bleach or some chemical was spilled on carpet behind drivers seat. Fibers started flying out and it was discolored towards white. Anyone here bought carpet from http://www.stockinteriors.com/. How good is it compared to stock?

She also helped steam clean the transmission case and another round of degreaser with a wire brush. it's coming along.

Cut off the rebar that was welded to cross member. Removed the bolts that normally attached to front lower rad support.

Painted crossmember rear bracket (for subframe), bracket for engine mount on tranny and battery support bracket.

There are MULTIPLE exhaust leaks >.> 1 I suspect head to manifold. There are two center lower bolts missing and 1 is a helicoil. Definately manifold to turbo. Black soot on the stainless oil feed line to turbo near it. and O2 to DP... broken bolt to deal with. (but only once engine is back to having 4 mounts)

Tomorrow, going to give the subframe a good coat of Armor Bed Coat (it's already been treated for rust).
Now I am thinking battery relocation. >.<

Unless Mitsu parts get here. Then I will just button this up and enjoy a ride out with the new clutch.

https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1ASUC_enCA545CA545&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=stockinteriors.com%20site%3Aca.dsm.org

That's a quick google search of everything on the board but as a summary everyone loves the place, order the samples so you can try it out than get what you want.

Thanks Bryan! Added: 1000AAQ V2

I'm getting impatient waiting on Mitsu. Now I have questions.

#1. I know that 7 bolts use RTV and 6 bolts is a gasket (for rear main seal housing). Any reason why I can't just use RTV on a 6 bolt? If I do wait for gasket, should I apply a thin amount of rtv along with gasket or gasket alone. (some old gasket won't come off the housing and engine block. fear some slight gap)

#2. I noticed the current pivot ball is already shimmed. Trying to find the measurement of a new pivot ball's diameter and see how much is worn and if I can continue to use the old one.

#3. If I do wait for new pivot ball, should I leave shim in?

Just realized I have to wait for the jesus clip & release fork boot anyway. >.<

You sure are waiting a long time for parts I keep in stock regularly.....

I know!!! Don't remind me. Btw. Your site is down

"Cannot Write Data to Temporary Directory"

Permissions or disk full.

I just got a call from another customer advising me. Webmaster has already looked at it, and hosting company is looking at it right now....

In the meantime, I can't access it either

Damn good thing I called Mitsu. Gasket is on back order.. until November 11th. ARHGHGHG...

All other parts are in though. Ziggy. You are a life saver.

Did that same thing to my airbag before I left. Got it all good and repaired using what ever that adhesive they use for windshields. It'll be on there for quite some time.

Wait for the correct parts before putting it back together. Brakes are designed to be as idiot proof as possible; if they just started making noise, you've got time. Besides, brakes aren't hard to do in a driveway

The rear main seal housing gasket is designed to go on dry. You should be able to remove any and all of the old gasket. You're taking gasket material off of a cast iron block; find something harder than the gasket but softer than iron. I find the Permatex gasket remover spray to work excellently along with scotch brite or a utility knife blade. If you're still worried, a VERY thin coating of RTV won't hurt.

Don't shim your new pivot ball.

Looks like some great progress, and good work with the airbag cover

Correction, don't shim it if you have a new fork to go with it. From my research on the matter it seems that it's the fork that wears out most with the ball wearing very little if much at all (relatively speaking). Therefore replacing the ball but not the fork (yes, I know it's stupid expensive) is not likely going to help much.

He mentioned earlier that he is replacing the ball and fork

Was looking for that before I said anything but must have missed mention of the fork.

I am only reusing flywheel bolts and pp bolts.

The full list of replaced items:

ACT STREETLITE FLYWHEEL (MACHINED)
SOUTHBEND STAGE 2 CLUTCH & PP
MD719925 BEARING, CLUTCH RELEASE
MD719602 FULCRUM, CLUTCH RELEASE FORK
MD706185 CLIP CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING RETURN
MD737767 FORK, CLUTCH RELEASE
MD718077 BOOT, CLUTCH RELEASE FORK
MD132656 FLANGE, BOLT 10x80
MR187766 CONED DISK, 10.5
MD128901 GASKET,T/C EXHAUST GAS INLET HOLE
MD183243 REAR MAIN GASKET 6 BOLT
MD343564 REAR MAIN SEAL

I'm most happy with my temporary front lower support.

Though I have decided, this is a long term car so I will try and hunt down the whole front assembly and get it done properly.

On a side note, was trying that [url=http://www.evapo-rust.com/]EvapoRust[/ulr] on some pieces. MINT but $$$$. Gonna go try the 5$ 4 litre apple cider vinegar instead.
Gasket should be in tomorrow, so I need to finish cleaning around the tranny area in engine bay and start de-rusting some bolts.

I never reuse flywheel bolts, but if you're going to, make sure there's plenty of red loctite on them.

I think your lower rad support solution was ideal without welding. For what it's worth, Ziggy keeps these in stock, though shipping one to Ottawa might be pricey.

I have read soo many posts.. many re-use as long as not damaged. There will be locktite

Heading to Oliphant, Ontario in two weeks, but little far out.
I need to recoup funds for a bit. Then, maybe take the Talon out for a long cruise to Niagara Falls.

I also may get the rad support tack welded for a little additional strength. But 1/2 Stainless will easily hold min 6000lbs. + the center member will be pulling it inwards. (Most of the good material is at the front)

I am confident with it as a stopgap.

I think your rad support fix will hold up just fine; I was merely mentioning it for when you go for a full repair.

I reused flywheel bolts on my first clutch change out of necessity; it was never an issue. But if I'm already ordering a bunch of stuff from RTM, $25 to avoid having to drop my tranny again is a pittance

Since your stuff is already ordered, I think you'll be fine with the old ones. And loctite

I've re-used the PP bolts many times, never any issues. The dowel pins take the most stress.

Anything that's part of a moving piece or something subjected to vibration gets loctite on mine.

For the record, new pivot ball has diameter or .501" The old one (it was shimmed) was around .485" (in case anyone wants to reuse a pivot ball :P)

Getting ready. Rear seal in tomorrow (today as it is 1am)

This looks worse under a flash. It's clean enough.



Front Subframe.


Front nearly ready to button up.


Hign pressure, High Temp, Synthetic Grease. And now I know why the call it the jesus clip. Once on, you pray it holds. Not much holding it and makes me uneasy. Moves nicely though. I will clean up excess grease on the spline tomorrow.


Majority of Gasket is off. Again.. looks worse with flash >.< I am fearful of crap falling into the oil pan with huge those gaps.


Centermember Bed Armored.


Tomorrow.. it begins...

And there it is.. the hate relationship with the car.

Rear Seal. Done!
Flywheel - 98ft/lbs w/ locktite. Cleaned. Done
Clutch and PP (Cleaned) w/ alignment tool. Done.
Pressure Plate. 15ft/lbs with drop of locktite. Done.

Awesome.. making good time... install tranny.

5 hours later.. I HATE THIS CAR!1111

Tranny is still on the floor. My nice new shiney red pp scratched Subframe paint job mangled. The tranny WILL NOT fit back between the PP and subframe. I managed once.. I was 1 inch away from getting tranny on, board on jack split and tranny slipped off >.< (not onto the floor).

I am contemplating an engine hoist purchase. Fk this. But I don;t think it will help. No matter if I slide engine forward or leave it hanging back, the subframe does not allow tranny to slide in nicely. I have pictures. I am too sore, angry and tired to post.

It's almost as if you have to rotate the tranny 90 degrees to get the bellhousing over the pressure plate, then rotate into position.

It takes a little finagling but it'll go. Make sure you have the rear roll stop and top mount remove from the tranny, makes it 10X easier.

Try it with a twin disk if you want a fun time

Try moving the engine back/forwards. I find that the engine likes to move around from the spot it sat in once the trans is out and its only being held in by that one last mount.


Twin disc, eh? Try an automatic... I still have nightmares.

Update: Gave it another shot at 1am. It's in!!!

Oh and in my travels.. I found.. oil under the cam angle sensor. >.>

Persistence pays off!

Sounds about right, with the age of these cars, every piece of rubber is due to be changed. Time for a new o-ring.

There have been times where I too have spent hours upon hours wrestling with my transmission trying to get it back in. I even have this spiffy transmission jack adapter from princess auto...



But then I developed a special Trans Installâ„¢ tool which makes it sooooo much easier. Since developing this tool, transmission installs are a breeze.




I now offer these Trans Installâ„¢ tools at a low price of $999.99. Send me a PM if interested.

Scott, that's genius! Unless you're willing to share the dimensions, I'm gonna make one of those when I get back. I'm usually stuck installing the trans on my own (with the phone within reach should something go wrong) and I'm left using my feet to wiggle the engine while lifting the trans up (5 speed).

BAahhaha.. Here you go. I want 10% of profits.



Thanks for that You guys keep your engine level? or flywheel side down a bit?

I kinda screwed up. When I put the rear main seal cover on, I forgot to put in the bottom two bolts (accessible with transmisson on). There is a thin film of black on the gasket which are torqued down, and grey on the lower oil pan half (which are the bolts I forgot to put). Hoping that seal will hold with after the fact adding those bolts. If the tranny hadn't been that hard to put in, I would rip it out as guess what, the gasket from mitsu came in day after I receive one from ziggy. >.<

I used a normal jack, removed the rubber inside and put a 3/4" piece of plywood with bolt and washer through it and the jack head. Worked nicely. But.. I am really interested in this.

Depends on my mood. I'll either hand bomb it with it just about level, or I'll aim the flywheel down a bit (careful to not squish the crank pulley!) then put the trans in from underneath, lean on the fender and lift the trans, using my feet to push the jack under the trans. I'm not really efficient, but with the fender cover, I find it to be the safest bet. Tried using the engine hoist and it took as long, if not longer than my usual method.

Scott nailed it, I use the same tool as him

I use to struggle with the awd tranny as well, the damn subframe was always in the way. Then figured out that the motor like to roll & lean back with all the mounts off & the front jacked up. Found a block, wedged it in & with two people have installed a number of trannies since, literally 2 min job from jacking it up to bolting it on, ever since.

So I bolted up the passenger engine mount. I then went to install the rear mount and the whole thing is sitting back. Tranny is touching subframe. I can't budge the whole thing.how is this possible? Grrrr.

Never mind. Engine rotates. Just jack up front mount.. I think. Testing

Things went well.

Added missing oil pan bolts
Passenger Engine Mount. Done
Rear Engine Mount. Done
Axles. Done
Passenger Side Suspension. Done.

It was slow cause I kept misplacing tools >.< Should be wrapped up tomorrow night. Then on to dealing with broken O2 housing bolt.

Anyone know why the hell a mechanic would do this to the rad? (I know they couldn't put a fan.. but.. blocking air flow?!!

Is your tstat working?
I had overcooling issues and there were a lot of people on the internets that suggested doing that, supposedly its a common option for truck drivers.

My guess is to make the single fan more effective. since the shroud covers the whole radiator, having an open hole would allow the single fan to suck air from the back of the radiator (through the open hole) instead of through the radiator itself.

Obviously the best solution is to put both fans on.

I forgot to measure my Trans Installâ„¢ tool. Will try to remember tonight. It really does make things as easy as Darren said.

I actually did this exact mod myself last month. It's not blocking airflow; as Scott mentioned, it's allowing the single rad fan to pull air across the entire rad. Contrary to popular belief, even at speed, air is reluctant to go through your rad unless your fan is running. Rad fans pull air away from the rad creating a low-pressure zone; this is what encourages the air in front of your rad to come through the fins. Done properly, that shroud would actually improve airflow.

Doing it properly would involve sealing it up around the edges though.

Thank you gentleman. Good explanation. I want AC though. Was thinking pusher fan on condenser side seeing o2 housing too close.

Not sure which fan that is but check to see if you can change the polarity of it at the pigtail. I know the mishimoto fans do and I installed them on the front of the rad for more clearance.

While a proper shroud should work as described above, I'm not sure how functional that "shroud" (ie house soffit) actually would be.

On the other hand, I have not specifically tested myself but once you get up to a certain speed, the air forced through the rad because of the airflow against the rad, should be greater then what the fan/fans can pull through. At this point, that shroud should be blocking airflow. This is why fans are really only needed at low speeds/stop & go traffic.

Air will always take the path of least resistance, so if the path to the rad is not sealed from the front of the car, to the rad, the airflow will much rather go around, vs through the rad.

This is actually a common misconception. If you have sealed ducting in front of the rad, then what you said would be true. However, at speed, it is still more difficult for air to go through the rad than around it. Without sealed ducting FORCING the air through the rad, it will still predominantly go around. However, at speed, there is sufficient airflow moving across the front and around the rad to pull heat away; airflow which is not present at low speeds/stop & go traffic, giving the results that have falsely been attributed to air moving through the rad.

I have done quite a bit of testing with this over the summer. The results have been quite staggering.

Curious as to what you have done for testing?

What's the misconception, I did specifically say that airflow will always take the path of least resistance & in order for it to benefit from the incoming airflow, the rad must be sealed?

I haven't done anything scientific, but when at highway speeds turning the fans on/off via link made no difference that's loggable with the stock ecu. So that would seem to tell me the cooling from incoming airflow is greater then what the fans are able to achieve (whether its through the rad or across the surface). I do run aftermarket fans, but they are about as big of fans (ie move the most airflow for their size & do the best as static pressure increases) as I could fit. The AC fans is ~1300cfm & the main fan ~1800cfm, which probably aren't too far off from stock.

I will add to DSM BIBLE.



It cools well I think. I have never tried to take her out in 35 degree weather in stop and go traffic mind you. I don't enjoy taking turbo cars out in 35 degree weather. >.<

The misconception is that at speed, your rad fans are no longer the key factor in pulling air through the rad. This is not true. The phenomena that you witness when clicking your fans off was explained in my last post; there IS sufficient cooling from oncoming air, but NOT because it's rushing through the rad. A proper shroud will not cause a performance loss, even at speed.

If I had time to write up everything I had done, I would. Cliff notes are that there was an obvious and significant improvement in airflow through my I/C and rad after I added the shroud. Most of this testing was done between 100km/h and 160km/h (on a track, of course!).

Well. She's not seeing the road this weekend.

That broken bolt is seized tight in the O2 Housing. I managed to remove the O2 housing not breaking any bolts to turbo.

Heated the crap out of it and used penetrating oil. Nothing. Won't budge. I could try and get a nut welded on, but I think It would just snap flush.

Not sure I wanna pay a company to remove it. which would cost a good chunk of a new one. Question is.. if I do get a new O2 housing.. which one? (Might need new wideband O2 as well as it is seized in there good also.)

Options:

Out of Stock Megan Racing Tubular O2 Housing (Recirculated): DSM

Tubular O2 Housing (Recirculated): DSM

or pay 60$ more for stock one.

I also will need to order gaskets. I measured the downpipe. The opening is 2.75". The O2 down is 2.5"

The Turbo to O2 gasket fell out in two pieces.

She's mostly back together. I jumped in drivers seat and fearing the tranny falling out.. I pressed the clutch in.

Mother of God!!! The pedal pressure is effortless. You guys sure this holds power? Lol

I had the same reaction the first time I tried my Southbend

I was asking how your tstat is because if it is failsafe than your car will actually over cool, and should take a fair bit long to get up to operating temperatures.

Don't waste your time on a Megan o2 housing, buy an Evo 3 o2 and just re-weld your downpipe flange to work with the slight different angle.

The Megan I had cracked in 3 places and the flange warped all to hell. The Evo 3 is already much larger than the 2g and can be ported out quite a bit more.

That would require me getting it to a shop to do. I'm not at that level yet.

I am going to do my best to get that stud out. But if I do get it out, this begs the question for gasket (O2 to DP).. The O2 outlet is 2.25" the Exhaust DP opening is 2.75". Which gasket do I get? 2.5 or 3? I would assume 3" but thought I would ask.

And seeing I am replacing Ex Mani to Turbo, Turbo to O2 and O2 to DP gaskets, might as well replace the Head to Ex Mani gasket? Do I really want to tackle that on top of all the problems so far? Thinking of waiting till next year. >.> It will be my only leak for now.

Now I wait until Monday to try and get the bolt removed. >.>

This is also where I get confused. I have a 6 bolt.

Which means when I shop for parts, I am shopping in 1G if it is engine or exhaust (up to DP) correct? Anything run by a belt is 2G?

Sorry. Never had to deal with a 1Gina2G

Why not just buy a used O2 housing if yours is stuck (if you can't manage to take it out)? I have one if need be. Pretty sure someone in Ottawa closer to you may have one too.

Its out!!! Grinded flat sides on bolt opposite each other. Vice grips put on using clamps to assist with locking vice grips. 2foot pipe for leverage.

Money saved!!!

Well done!

As far as having a 6 bolt in a 2G, you can still search for parts in the 2G section of RTM. They accommodate that combination in their listings.

Otherwise, you'll have to use your discretion; there are a few ways to do the swap. If you have not already read Magnus' 1G in a 2G article, I recommend it. It includes a breakdown of the parts used in different versions of the swap, among other useful information.

7" in length.

That ruler is old school.
Where's the user manual? How do I operate this thing?
Does it come with a warranty? A guarantee?







RTM order in.

OEM O2 Housing Gasket: DSM/EVO1-3
RTM-405-2.5 RTM Stainless Steel 2-Bolt Exhaust Gaskets
OEM Exhaust Manifold Gasket: DSM/EVO1-3 4 layer
OEM CAS O-Ring: DSM/EVO1-3
OEM O2-Housing to Downpipe Stud: DSM/EVO
OEM Exhaust Manifold Stud Kit: DSM 6-bolt
MIT03-MB059359 OEM Exhaust Nuts

Well. It's done. She's back together. I go to start it. No starter action. Fuel pump, lights, everything good. Just nothing for starter. Curse. Swear. Look at it. I eventually cave and remove the starter. I test the solenoid and slowly the pinion moves. I keep trying it, it slowly improves. Throw the starter back in. Success!! Car started. Idle a little erratic but it started and remained idling.

I was so excited to take her around the block, I get two corners in and hear a rubbing sound from drivers tire. Oh yeah.. tighten lugs >.<

So I run home, get the wrench and tighten them up. All good (minus stalling when coming to a stop). Clutch is so light it's hard to get a feel for the full engagement range. Also, with the front rad support all buttoned up, lots more vibration from the engine (balance shaft belt eliminated).

So I have put the bumper back on and tomorrow just replace the exhaust hangers I cut.

Thanks to everyone on here for the help. Now.. boost leak test and tune! I had to sacrifice my red vibrant coupler for my boost leak tester. Damn 3" Turbo Inlet and 3" Plumbing boot being 3.5" due pipe thicknesses.

My TPSV is 0.39 at 0% TPS >.> supposed to be 0.63? Could be related to stalling? Anyway.. a few shots.





1000 in this shot was actually -1.2. I had just changed it to more gradual change from 1000 to 1500. (untested)

Congrats! Glad to see she is back on the road

I went for a short lived victory ride. 45 mins she reminded me why I love DSMs. She was stalling at lights if I let RPM drop too quickly for awhile.. but now just come to stop in gear and push clutch in when it hits 1200rpm.

Anyway... got home.. look under car, MT90 puddle. Sorry freshly tarred driveway It sprayed underneath car. There is no MT90 above the CV boot. I looks like underneath it, it's shiny wet.

Not sure if it's due to CV not in all the way or dmged seal.
Praying not coming out of anything else.

Back off comes the passenger side suspension and axle. *@&#(*HDQ!

Aiii! Don't use the sliders, use the tables, it's much more accurate.

For the TPS, (first make sure that the TPS adjustment is disabled in link) manually spin the TPS until it reads 0.63v. You might also have to play with the stop screw if it's not set right.

For the axle seal, be very, very careful. My brother found out the hard way how fragile those axle seals are when installing them.

Fixed. Axle was 1/4 inch out. This time I heard a distinct click.

Went out again.. 10 degrees here in Ottawa..

I lasted 67 KM before mashing the throttle on a back road. Guess the MBC knob got turned. hit 28PSI. Dear mother of god it felt good. (and no CEL knock either)

I then dialed her back down to 20PSI for safety. After about 30 mins.. I found more MT90. This time, leaking down the front (but not enough to drip on the ground). There is also a trace amount on top of the tranny. It looks like it blew out the shift linkage boots. I'll have to take a closer look. But it ran great. Thanks again to all. I'm in love again.

So the sliders affect the table? I need to read up a bit more. I have not adjusted the tune that came with the car.



I can't get at the bottom bolt >.< no wrench, no screwdriver will reach into there.



Luckily.. I don't need to replace

The bottom bolt for the TPS is a ***** to get to, but if I recall right, you gotta remove the PCV, then you have access to it.

And the tables and the sliders affect the tune. The tables are just more accurate. Use them last though. Go back to a stock SD table and dial in the injectors first, under the Fuel tab.

This is a good read on SD
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-tune-a-1g-v3-sd-ecmlink-with-no-maf.395564/

I took an old 8mm wrench to my bench grinder to get on those TPS bolts.. You just need to crack them enough to be able to rotate the sensor until you reach the value of 0.63 volts like stephan mentioned.

Your throttle cable may need adjusting as well.

As mentioned, a serious pain. On my old setup, my technique was to use a Phillips bit with a 1/4" wrench (most bits are a 1/4" hex). Use a flatblade screwdriver against the end of the bit to hold it in the bolt head, turn it with the wrench. They're not all that tight. Might not work with your setup though.

My new IM sits the TB far enough out I can just put a screwdriver on it. I was so happy when I found that out

Glad to hear she's up and running!

Amazing work Charles! Awesome what you did in a short time...

Now that she's drivable I think a full car picture is due??

Hear, hear!

Clutch line damper is wet in front. It seems to be concentrated below shifter linkage. Maybe spraying out?

Suspect under here:


I cleaned it up, when for another short drive and only small amount collectingbelow ledges below the spot marked above.

Thanks guys. Photo to come. Will take one tonight.

Found it. As I suspected. (Neat little trick, get bottle of spray powder gold bond. Paint thick coat near area you suspect. Go for short drive). In my case, I went for longer one >.>



Jack M: "You can change the seal without removing or tearing the trans down. You have to remove the shift shaft arm on top which is held in place by a pin. The pin only comes out one way and is pressed in very tight. You need to use a serious air hammer and pop the pin out. Then you can slide the arm off and the seal is right there and slips right off.

Again, you need a serious air hammer to get it off, or there is no hope of removing the pin. The pin comes out on the front side, so you need to have the air hammer pointing toward the front side of the car and the pin will pop out toward the radiator. If you go the wrong way, you will force the pin in tighter and then you're really screwed."

Seems daunting.

Sorry for no photos, been busy with daughter past 2 weeks.

Passed on by Garret who found this on dsm site:

"Pull the rubber cover thing up under the linkage. From there you will be able to see the top of the seal. Using a thin flathead screwdriver or the like pry it up as high as you can. Clean it up real good and glob a bunch of red rtv on and around the seal. Push the seal back down, push the boot down and let it dry for a few hours. Problem solved. "

This is my option 1.

Nice work, it's beautiful!!

Planning on any dyno/quarter mile runs?

Looks damn good!

Thanks. All I did was clutch. lol.

Black lies in pictures. This thing is riddled with fine scratches >.>

The leaking tranny seal is probably my fault.. I overfilled.
Brought it back down to normal levels and added RTV just inside the lip of the boot. Slowed leak to a crawl.



Not yet. I just got it and still want to enjoy it. lol. It's developed a slight hesitation around 6000rpm (@ 25PSI) in second and power falls off at 6500rpm @ 23PSI.

ECMLINK reports 313hp at 6000 then drops to 200 by 7000. You can feel it fall on it's face. Also blew a little oil out the dipstick. ( blame that damn gas filter contraption on the VC to pre turbo inlet.

My boost leak tester popped apart at 17psi. scared the crap out of me. I hate the sound of popping balloons. Imagine PVC. >.<

I have two boost leaks. (fixed other 3)
1: The MBC (bad)
2: With MBC closed off... TB shaft seal (minor). Bleeds from 17PSI to 0 in about 30 seconds.

I have a slight thumping (not driveshaft.. I can feel it more in the pedals)..

And I need to be tuned. >.> I predict end of next season it will see a pass.

This was before the BLT @ 23PSI.
log.2015.08.30-01.elg



I don't even have basics checked yet like baseline timing. TPS volts are low with no throttle .39. Whole bunch of little things. Anyway.. setup is:

3" exhaust turbo back. No cat
PTE SCM61 Turbo
780cc injectors
Daschworks 340lph FP
Turbosmart BOV
Front Mount 28x 10
Aluminum Rad
6 bolt.
Arp studs.
BS elimination
ECMLink v3 lite
AEM Uego Wideband O2
AEM O2 gauge
Eibach pro lowering springs
Tokico Blue
Southbend Stage 2 Clutch w/ ACT Streelite flywheel.

She's looking good man!

Most of the guys on here run ECMlink; they are a wealth of information. Have you done spark plugs since you got it? (Sorry if it was mentioned)

Thank you! Wouldn't be possible without you guys.

New issue last night. Yay.

12.0 volts at speed. 11.6 at idle. Hello dying alternator. The Chuck curse is back.

Also, I am getting very annoyed with low speed/rpm driving. There is 0 slack in the pedal. Lightest pedal reading is 5%. and I had to press very slowly to get that. I get this jerky action when light on and off at slow speeds/rpm (between 900 and 2500 rpm)

So to update my list

- Saturn Alt upgrade and add ducting to cool.
- New EVC or MBC.
- Ensure baseline values (Timing, TPSV, etc) are good.
- Tune
- Fix sagging drivers door. Lots of movement at the bottom hinge. Rubbing fender.
- Change oil filter (slight leak around seal. I used a 2G fram oil filter when I should have used a 1G OEM)
- Strange feeling in the steering wheel (like an out of balance tire). Was fine before I took everything apart.
- Fix blown rear speaker. (stereo is off 95% of the time as I listen for stuff breaking. lol)
- Relocate the battery to trunk
- Build custom harness to clean up wiring.
- Change rear diff gear oil to heavyweight shockproof.
- Change front brakes to match
- Change interior carpet
- Change stereo. (current one flashes so brightly it's very distracting)
- Remove rear wiper assembly and nozzle.
- Change drivers window (badly scratched)
- Find out why hot air through vents is the only option no matter the settings.
- Continue rust treatment undercarriage
- Build custom fiberglass overlay for mid section of rear tail (hide the talon part)
- Build custom fiberglass sub enclosure off to the side
- FP Exhaust manifold + EGT probe and gauge
- Header wrap downpipe
- Good buff / polish of clear coat.

Dying or standard for the mitsu?

You can adjust the slack on the throttle cable by loosening off the 2 bolts on the back of the intake manifold and sliding that plate left and right. Personally, I like mine snug, but not too tight. If there is absolutely no slack, as the car heats up, the throttle will actually open a bit causing an idle surge. (Don't ask me why, I haven't been able to figure it out... you'd think the cable would stretch when it's hot, not condense.... Then again, it might be something in the pulley assembly for the cruise control.)

She was singing happily at 13.1 - 13.6 since I got her. Just last night I noticed 11.6-12.0 while cruising. (Ty ECM link for your brilliant Boost Voltmeter option reminding me to check)

Will take a look. I don't want much slack, but the second the gas pedal moves. I'm at >= 5% throttle. Not sure adding a tiny amount of slack will help but worth a shot. Thx for tip.

Another question for you DSM'ers. I want to go with the Self exciting Saturn Alt as shown here: http://www.motorcityreman.com/91scse1.html

Do any Canadian Vendors sell this setup? 1 Wire install would be great. I know RTM has the alternator.. but not the SE regulator or do I just order the Alternator and Pigtail and suck up doing a little more wiring.

So a little update...

I fixed the door sag. Removed fender. Loosened all door hinge bolts jacked up the door using 2ft long piece of wood wrapped in towel and placed on jack. Raised it about 1" above where it should be. Tightened all bolts. Once weight of door came back down. I have a level door. Yay. Success!

I then got a little A.D.D. and started a project I should have saved for later. Custom sub enclosure. (I wanted a small break from mechanical).

Tape Job.


Fiberglassing. Things went a little wrong towards the back of the car. There will be a bit of work to clean up inside of enclosure.


Outside of car after curing. Basic shape made.


Back view.


Anyway.. while that was curing.. I took another stab at the TPS bottom bolt. There is NO way I can get any tool in there. a tiny 8mm socket is too long. Hits the fuel rail. I even tried just the little drill screwdriver tips you get in kits.. It's too long on it's own. Less than 3/4" clearance between fuel raid and the bolt.

I may try and sacrifice an 8mm socket and cut it short or it looks like I will have to remove fuel rail or TB

That looks wicked, I want to do a sub install in my slow car so I can enjoy some sweet tunes!

That sub install looks great, I'm going to be pulling the subs out of the car I'm working on, too much weight, haha.

Like I say, I ground down an old 8mm wrench for clearance at that tps. If you don't have one, I don't mind giving you mine because I no longer have a stock TB.

Thanks. My problem was I was trying to rush it. I used too big pieces of cloth. I am going to spend a lot of time fixing that mistake.

Thank Mike. The clearance between bolt and TPS is ok. The socket is thin enough. It's length. Pardon the cheesy imagery.



nothing can squeeze in there.. even if I get the socket on it.. it will be butted up right against the fuel rail.



The TPS almost sits right against the rail.

Just remove the three bolts from the fuel rail and move it out of the way enough to get to the bolt. I dont even unhook the fuel lines or anything, can usually sneak it out that way.

I ve never seen that regulator used in any install Ive ever seen or helped with. I only run the L wire on my SOHC low amp saturn alternator and its worked fine for me for 3 years now. Mind you I dont run a huge amp with subs. With large a large amp, you may wanna run the F wire.

If I move the fuel rail, do I need to replace the o-rings on the injectors as recommended by some vfaqs?

This would be nice.




Thanks. Car has (2 preamps?I'm guessing, still haven't examined them down by the passenger footwell) and 2 amps (350W and 700W). I'm tempted to nuke the 700W one for the 4 main speakers.

If you dont pull the injectors out of the fuel rail then you wouldnt need to. Worst case they may come out of the lower seal at the head, but ive never had an issue getting them back in and seated without leaks.

Now if all the seals are super dry and brittle, I would take this opportunity to replace them anyways.

Hey, when your doing the fiberglass, do you brush the resin on and then lay the fiberglass mat on top, then more resin? Or do you soak the fiberglass mat first then lay it on?

I just used fiberglass for the first time and while it came out decent, it made quite a mess lol I don't think i used the right technique...

I tried both. It's definitely messy either way.

I started by painting the painters tape with resin, apply mat, then paint on top. The brush was making a mess of the mat. (The key is dabbing.. but when trying to apply resin vertically, it's almost impossible)

After awhile, I was laying the fiberglass flat on the board, pouring a thick line across it, brush it while flat, then picked up and moved to where I wanted it. This was great until the gloves started to disintegrate and the resin stared to get tacky. (It preferred sticking to the gloves rather than tape).

At one point.. I gave up on the brush was was just scooping it with glove onto the mat. (hence the messy backside) lol.

It's a crap job really. Worst fiberglass experience ever. but now that the basic shape is there, I'm hoping to have a little more success tonight adding some more strength. I added a little fiberglass bondo inside for rigidity while out of the car. That caused a whole bunch of extra work due to loose strands in the original fiberglass job.

When they say 1 gallon of resin, that is not enough for the size of this thing >.< I used 1 full 8sqft mat for that basic shape. and they want me to make it 5 layers? This is gonna get expensive quick.

100$ in resin and 100$ in Mat. >.>

Sounds like we ran into the same issues... I went through 5 neoprene gloves on about 2 cu ft of fiberglass laid, everything was sticking to me. Not to mention pissing off the wife fiberglassing the good scissors closed... oops!

You can use other material for speaker enclosures rather than the fiberglass mat. Go to Wal-Mart and grab some 100% fleece, stretch that over the frame you created and apply the fiberglass resin to it. It'll work just as well and won't cost near as much.

The resin is killing me 20$ / litre. Next time I buy in bulk.
Fleece is already bought. Only using it for the top and front. And you are supposed to fiberglass OVER the fleece after.

Tonight went well. Cut into smaller strips. Bought huge pack of dollar store paintbrushes and plastic 12oz cups. One glove for painting hand and the other bare hand to hold cup and grab pieces. I never touched the resin with either hand this time. Just dab with brush, and once saturated, lightly brush and push on mat with brush only.

Good news on the TPS front. I unplugged all the wires around the tps, ground down box wrench.. and managed to get it loose! .63volts! Finally.

So I idled in the driveway for 10 mins.. got my short and long fuel trims to 0. (global fuel and injector deadtime).

Went for a cruise. OMG. Great throttle action now. Smooth. I like driving her again!

Logged the cruises. (2 street, 1 3K RPM highway and 1 3.4K RPM Highway) Set the CEL Knock to 1 degree instead this time.

I only saw bad knock once (3.4K RPM cruise) and was under partial throttle (30%) LoadFactor (1.05) i was speeding back up after slowing for pulled over vehicle. Log shows 8 degrees (AF's of 16.6 at 3100RPM) for a brief moment, ( and many 0.4 - 0.7 degree knocks ) but that was it. never saw it again. I wanted to adjust SD VE adjust (CombinedFT) to see suggestions.. and I get the error: Can Not Find log item for MAP sensor.

Took a look in ECU Inputs, PIn assignment (PC side) does not contain MAP sensor. O.o Sensor ECMLink is set to is Omnipower 4 Bar. Thoughts?

Little update.

I reverted to the tune that came with the car due to knock in 5th low throttle with engine load (in vaccuum). Still getting it (no more than 1 degree and intermittent).

I have been reading removed BS may be culprit or lifters. There is no knock anywhere else. Full boost (24psi) is awesome.

So I took a break from mechanical and continued the sub enclosure process. Shhh.. Only you guys (and the old ladies at the fabric store) know about the snowmen!! Cheap fleece in summer











It's been a challenge. Cleaning up corners/edges will be a pain. The large flat surface in front left is still moving a lot. It's gonna need quite a few layers of fiberglass to stiffen up.

So while I was waiting to buy more resin due to holiday, I went out the night before for a cruise. The power steering pump got really noisy after awhile (normally was just near stopped and first little turn). Anyway.. looks like the bottom tube may have cracked at the bottom of reservoir. (If anyone has a spare laying around for sale, let me know).



Not sure if that is repairable.

Under ALS/Knock, tell it to only listen to the knock sensor past 3500 rpm and 35% throttle. That will eliminate it seeing your phantom knock.

I've got a couple power steering reservoirs kicking around. PM me.

Likewise, think I have one all powdercoated sitting on my shelf.

I made one for my 2G a couple years back. It looks like you used the stringy Fiber glass stuff......I'd recommend adding some very thick layers of fiber glass matting. It's super thick and can absorb a lot of resin, which is what you want for overall rigidity.
In the back, I believe I did 4 THICK coats of glass with a frack ton of resin. Hopefully you took your time and made sure that there were absolutely no air pockets between layers and gave it ample time to dry.
To eliminate air pockets while using the fiber glass matting, I cut the matting into various size squares/rectangles and put them down one at a time using smaller batches of risen (it'll harden too fast and you don't want to rush this)
After that layer dries fully (I gave it 24 hours for each one), get out a little air sander and make everything smooth. Rid of all the little whispy ends from cutting the matting. Once it's all smooth, scuff it up a bit and start all over.

To get the fleece on the front, it looks like you did something similar. I stretched it over and glued it on using 3M spray adhesive. Worked like a charm. At this point, it was all resin. again, another THICK 4 coats on the front, allowing for proper drying time and coating it over the back, blending into the base/backplate.

It cost me about $200 in materials to make and weighs about 15lbs before the sub is installed. ROCK SOLID though! I'd recommend some weather stripping along all edges and corners to ensure it doesn't rattle or vibrate against the plastic trim.

It's looking good though. When she's all stiff, it'll sound amazing too. I get a super deep solid hit, and mine is a dual VC 10" infinity.

http://www.ca.dsm.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=405885#Post405885

The mat was too expensive (21$ for same sqft coverage). But you are right, it would be a little thicker. The back is 3 layers + a little fiberglass Bondo in between. (the amount of curves given back there, it is ridiculously stiff).

The front is fleece (I learned from this build to not to buy too thick of fleece! But.. it absorbed a crapload of resin and is thick in itself. There are 3 layers in the front, but where the large flat area is on the left, I have added total of 6 layers there due to flex. Will probably add another 2 layers tonight even though it's pretty tough there now.

What I do is place the sub in the box and then slowly turn up music until I hear rattling. Then go back and check the box where is is flexing / rattling. The only place was that large flat space. everything else was good so far. And it was loud enough for neighbors to hear inside their home next door.

There are air pockets. (I filled those with folder fiberglass then poured resin in them.

There are tons of strands on the inside.
I will also be stuffing fiberglass insulation inside that corner to help dissipate the pressure. I should have started over when I farked up the molded piece. But I just keep testing and fixing till it works.

Thanks for the weatherstripping idea. I will be screwing this unit into the plastic liners also to keep it from no sitting perfectly flush (top tends to want to pop out 1/2 inch).

Photo Update

Final Fiberglass


Bondoed


Glazed and Primed. There will be more fiberglass work on the box to fix top and corners, but for now... I'm leaving it. Custom cut trunk floor board. I think it will be fiberglassed as well >.>


Temporary Carpet.

Small update.

I have a new problem. I was out driving and had to brake hard. The clutch pedal engages the clutch but the pedal doesn't quite come all the way up until I let off the brakes. There is a slight hesitation it kinda pops up (about 1 inch from top). Ideas? Clutch disengages and engages ok.

On the other front.

Checked old plugs (BPR7ES). They seemed ok. They were gapped at 0.32. I changed plugs to BR7ES gapped at 0.24. NGK Wires. Car seems to like it.

Changed to WIX filter and Rotella T 15-40w oil. Car also seems to like it. (less ticking and good pressure).

I watered down coolant (30/70) and added water wetter. First night out, I was getting highest temps I have ever seen (223). Next day I checked and the coolant from overflow was missing. Guess there was an air pocket. I added some water to the overflow. She now runs 180-193 instead of 203-216. Car likes it.

I tried to fix my rattling windows. I think I made it worse. Car hate it.

I wanted some more gauges, and I hate where the dash pod is for WB and Boost. Have to take eyes too far off road to see them. So I started a new project.

Custom Pod







Dash 5 Pod ANALOG: WB,BOOST,OILP,OILTMP,WTRTMP
Dash Cluster 2 Pod DIGITAL: VOLTS, DIGITALCLOCK.
All Pro Sport Performance Series. (Amber/ White)

And finally.. I Zeroed out the sliders and started tuning all over again. Finally have something decent. Almost 0 knock. I have been doing some reading and people say that you should see up 3 counts during the pull for maxhp. I guess that is if you don't mind replacing the engine often?

chuck_sd_tune_25.5_psi.elg

First thing is to check fluid level and then leaks. Interesting idea about gauges, I personally like to keep interior near stock as possible and use less gauges but do more logging in link. But the work u do is definitely creative

I agree. I am building this and if I hate it, it's up for sale. Custom 5 Gauge pod. I don't think I will mind this as it follows the contour of the dash. Trying to make it blend as much as I can. I think I may also add a power switch so they all go dark when I want to not be a race car.

Coolant was one I really wanted. Knowing that at 206F, 1 degree timing gets pulled, I like to keep an eye on it.

I'm old and having to look over the steering wheel to see the gauges is driving me crazy. 2nd picture shows how much the WB is hidden. Boost gauge is even worse. (That will go when I get the EVC)

Thanks for the creative comment

Some people have money to burn, or don't know it isn't 2001, we don't tune by knock anymore.

Checked fluid level. Ok.
No Leaks.
Bled System.

I was under the dash checking out wiring, and tried to push on the pedal. Measuring at the tip of the pedal, there is 1/2" to 3/4" play before it even starts pushing the rod. (hole for pin must be slotted from use) Then another 1.25 inches before the rod starts to feel resistance.

I am at the end of the adjustment rod.

Guess a new pedal assembly is in order >.< The master still looks new (supposedly was replaced last year)

Or would it be possible to weld up the hole, then re-drill the hole for the pin?

You can ignore. The rod was not at the end. (It was there back before I replaced the clutch) The nut to keep it from loosening was loose and worked it's way back. Re-adjusted and now the clutch fully engages about 2" from top of pedal position.

I was inspecting the bushing (still in good shape) when I noticed.

Drove uncles 2013 GTI couple nights ago and about the same pedal position for engagement. Takes some getting used to, but .. night and day. Little jabs to shift.

Glad you got that sorted out. The 2Gs don't tend to have clutch pedal assembly wear problems - that's mostly limited to the 1G and boy is it ever fun to get that sucker out (and by that I mean you're gonna want to sell your car about 20 minutes in).

Thanks Feels good to drive her again. I went chasing the moon tonight. Eclipse happened too high in the sky to make it work. So normal moon it is.

Well. To wrap up the season. I hit the track. Sad numbers. Fastest was 14.0 @ 102 (26psi) Something is up with that Mile an Hour. 14.0 I can live with (too much traction on launch and the car would bite,slip bite and bog causing 2.4 60 ft)

But the MPH which I thought would be between 110 and 120 nowhere close. Time to park her and start diagnosing next season. (fuel overrun,boost leaks, exhaust leaks and bad tune?) Can only get better from here right?

Fastest with 16g (old 2g), was 13.7 @ 99 (18psi, 1.8 60 ft)

Been a pleasure kids. Thanks for all the help to get her into the game at least

The track can be a heart breaker at times, putting the butt dyno in it's place.

2.4 60' is high enough to really hurt the top end though. Lots of variables at play, the launch, sh!t points, speed of shifts, possible clutch slip?, launch rpm? Hopefully you logged the passes so you can find where things are going wrong.

They were running pro and semi pro all day. That track was sticky as hell. I always try and line up off to the side.



I can't dump this clutch like I did the ACT and small turbo.

First run (logged) was against a WRX. I wasn't going to launch, but heard him bouncing off rev limiter and I decided.. wth. The sound of the launch was heart breaking (rear end made a noise I didn't like) but everything survived the run. WRX passenger was laughing until 1/8th mile I blew past him. >.<

Turned up boost, 2nd pass had solid Knock CEL come on starting in third.. I let off. Dropped boost 1psi and did third run. Logged.

1st Pass (ECMLink)

3rd Pass (ECMLink)



G35 in our group was the one to go home on flatbed. Broken half shaft.

So she is in hibernation mode now.



If compression turns out to be ok....

2016 official plans: (this should keep me busy and burn through a few thousand bucks)

$50 - New PCV vavle + check valve
??? - New Valve Cover with 3 large 1/2 inch bungs (know anyone that can do this well?)
$50 - Oil Catch Can
$130 - Install COP
$200 - Fluids
$80 - Add Grounds

$160 - Upgrade from EMCLINK Lite to Full.
??? - Buy Spare Turbo (Evo 16g?)
$350 - Rebuild Turbo (SCM61) by Cherry Turbos (maybe change hotside for quicker spool?)
FREE + Inspect ECU
$700 - New Calipers (Front), Rotors (Slotted Zinc plated) and pads all the way around (Outlander?)
$50 - Fix parking brake. (worn shoes)
$20 - Fix leak between O2 and downpipe. Replace missing exhaust hangers.

$35 - Fuel filter (stock)
??? - AN lines
$110 - AEM Fuel rail
$400 - FuelLab AFPR + Guage (Kit from RTM)
$400 - 1200cc injectors

$150 - Meth kit (just missing nozzles and hoses)

$400 - Battery Relocation
$200 - Saturn Alternator
FREE - Yank AC (seeing I can't fit a secondary fan, pointless)
FREE - Inspect and Rewire Stereo install (remove the additional pre-amps and speaker driver.
$200 - New HID kit $200 from https://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-systems/morimoto-elite-hid-system-9006.html#.VlacMHarSUk)

$200 - Undercarriage Rust fixes.
??? - Fix Hole in Strut tower drivers side. (I need a road trip. Who here is good at it? :P)

$600 - Repair Front Headlight Rad Support
And if there is time: Fuse box Relocation. /shudder

Thanks again to all those who helped this year. It was all greatly appreciated.

I am jealous of you winter driving your DSMs. My old ones were a blast in the winter.

Looks like a fun list.

Jason Drew has a tig and does powder coating, so he can do your valve cover up for you.

Why COP? The factory ignition system is incredibly robust; your goals are not even close to a stress for factory coils and NGK wires.

More for looks and price was right.

And now I have spare ignition system. parts will eventually be hard to find.
Same with PTU. I bought a second one for 15$. Spares!

Chuck "DSM parts hoarder" Lavoie

Won't need PCV valve and check valve with a proper catch can setup.
Mike brightside or Jason Drew will be able to help you with the valve cover and can both make it pretty after. Also what's your plan with the valve cover? why three?
I would raise the price of the COP a fair bit because you should have a booster in there, as mentioned many times stock system is good for 500hp+ so you are just throwing money away for anything less than that.
I would go with the 16g for quicker spool.
Ziggy has AN pump to rail kit so you can see what the cost is like.

Jack's PCV



You are correct. Forgot about the booster. I will leave it for last.




I had a turbonetics small 16g. It is a very snappy turbo. I need to find something that will replace the SCM61 during downtime without much radical change to plumbing (oil).

Ziggy will be by go to guy for new parts.

Thanks for that Charles, very interesting read on PCV.
I currently only have one side of that equation with only vacuum when punching it, I would love if I could find a similar setup like that but going the AN route, I think for that I would probably throw check valves in each of the lines and have a -10 or -12 into the intake plenum. I would prefer that route cause not a big fan of all the lines he has running in those pictures.

Any of the FP green/red/black would be a good replacement and they are sale right now, plumbed exactly like any MHI turbo and are robust.

I had an old SCM5031 and the FP spools faster and have more top end, personally I wouldn't bother with rebuilding it unless the price was very decent, I know some rebuilders won't even touch those turbos as they are very common for thrust bearing failure.

I run two -6an lines from the VC to my can and a -8an from the can to the intake pipe, can collects quite a lot of crud, oil never smells gassy or given me any issues.

Another +1 for Jason Drew's work. I got a valve cover from him and it's beautiful, with two -8an fittings up top and powder coated.

Also, is going with that aem fuel rail for asthetics only? Because the stock rail is plenty, and the Magnus one flows the most.

There's a few members on this board that have such a hoard of dsm parts, it would make your head spin

I think I have something like 5-6 coil packs in my basement.. After I sold a few!

Pretty much everything my buddy used on his 4g swapped Civic came from my hoard and it didn't even make a dent. Other than a new head gasket, I don't think he bought anything new.

I keep trying to give him parts just make room for me parts lol, it's a viscous cycle.

I agree that the 3 line one is messy. I would run 2 back toward firewall with catch can + PCV should do.

FP turbo is nice, wonder if the family would question a turbo under the xmas tree from Santa. The exchange rate will kill.

I have full boost (26psi) between 4900 and 5100 RPM which is decent for a huge turbo

I am trying to make it pretty under the hood. So some stuff is aesthetics. Many of my wishlist is only based on someone selling stuff in classified at low price. (part outs)

I may not make all of it.. but it's a target. Again, assuming good compression.

Jason, I will have work for you next year should you want it.

No pcv valve on mine, it's pointless unless it's plumbed to the intake manifold or somewhere that sees boost pressure.

Well with the current sale at $799, even with the exchange, it's less than what I paid for my red.

I see 30 psi by 4300-4500 on my red, which I think is great on a 65lbs/min turbo.

I'm always open to jobs.

I know that's what you meant

No I meant boost. It's a one way valve and in the stock configuration, it needs to close when the IM sees boost, otherwise it's going to go into your crankcase. With a catch can setup that only gets its vacuum source pre-turbo, it never sees boost pressure, so the pcv valve does nothing but create a hindrance to flow in the line.

Oh my bad I thought you just meant if you were running one line not both, I got you now.

So I can place catch can on firewall and move the PCV connection to the catch can (with a line leading to pre turbo instead?) (just put rubber cap over intake nipple for PCV)

No check valve would be needed as would never see PSI. Just -HG at all times.

Pretty much.

I would make sure it's a good rubber cap and RTV it on there. I blew one off and blew a hole through one before I drove a slightly too large bolt in the hole, that never came out.

Finally: Compression Results (6 bolt)

155 - 145 - 155 - 160

85% of 160: 136
Standard 161
Service 120

Tis' the season to spend money. I have been waiting for double digit weather as the garage has no heater.

2016 work plan has shifted a bit. Here is this month's work plan.

April Order:

- New shifter cable clips (lost one on way to storage)
- Shifter Base Bushing Kit + Short Throw Shifter Kit

- PCV Delete + Catch Can

- New fuel filter + FuelLab AFPR Kit + ProSport FP Gauge

- Meth Hose and Jets
- TB Shaft Seals

- Exhaust Gaskets (Head to DP) (remove all leaks)

- ECMLink V3 Full (Upgrade from Lite)

- Cold Air Intake

Like This Box but with ducting leading to intake box instead of missing headlight.


Or Externally


Because I plan to run venting to my front brakes later on, will most likely move air filter out as I need the vent from front bumper to lead to brakes.

- New K&N
- Timing Light

Followed by lots of tuning.

-------------------------------------------------------------

May-June Work:

- Oil Cooler Kit

- 0/1 Gauge Wire.
- YellowTop Battery
- Fuses, Breakers, Distribution Blocks

- Strut Tower Rust Repair. Jason D. You do this kind of repair?


And this is where it gets tricky with a bigger lump of cash to tackle 1 problem. I need to choose between:

#1. Making more power up top with Cams (272/272 or 280/280) w/ Beehive Springs and Revised Lifters
(I'm running out of steam at 6400rpm) (this may get better if I fix boost leak at TB shaft seals and Exhaust Leaks) I can't seem to flow more than 42-45Lbs before it starts to fall off a little.

or

#2. Get a big brake setup (Wilwood or Cobra. Leaning to Wilwood for ease of pad changes). Remember, I have a 1 piston brake and smaller rotor on the front passenger side.

-------------------------------------------------------------

I have 2 other major things I want to take care of, but I am putting off.

#1. Transmission Rebuild By Jack's. (Our dollar is too weak for this)

#2. Rad Support Front End. I really should get this done, but my fab piece is working well.

I am also concerned with Cylinder #3. It's the only one below 155. (By 10 psi)

That is all. Looking forward to start working on Bixley again.

Reza @ Dynotune! Local trans build!

Charles wicked progress!!

Doing a great job staying on track! Reza is the place to go!

Why not teach yourself to weld and fix the towers.

I have not read about this! Thanks for heads up.



Now that you mention it, some body shop would charge me 500$ to fix it. Could get a little welder and learn. Long as I don't set the car on fire! Suggestion on a welder to get? Newbie willing to learn.

I will definitely be buying a powder coating kit this year also.

I am very happy with my lincoln 140, I just ran out of flux core so going to grab some gas as all the guy's say it's the bees knees

Planning to do the same!! The new house came with an extra oven so going to toss that in the garage.
We should start a powder thread and share tips!

I can do it if you want make the 3 hour drive down from Ottawa, it would strictly be the metal work, not final touch up/paint.

If you do it with a mig, do it with gas, flux core is too hot for good results and you'll get lots of burn through, especially if you're new to it. Tig is the best way but pricey and hard to learn. The great thing though is your welds end up almost perfectly flush with the surrounding metal so there is very little filler and prep work to do.

If you never welded.. i wouldnt attempt to fix your towers as a first
project . But I did mine with a Power Fist Princess Auto 110v mig and flux core wire.

Getting anxious.... Thanks Abbas for getting that order sorted out! Something in here should help me out.




Planning next month's order!

Didn't want to upgrade your fuel filter and do AN lines? Some pretty sweet stuff in there, look forward to the install!!

I'm still on a stock filter with and lines to and from the tank, just -an from the filter to rail and rail to afpr. Even with a Walbro 400 it hasn't cause any issues.

All that will happen once the engine blows and I empty out the bay. That will be when everything gets O.C.D. treatment.

I like the black nylon braided lines more than stainless and larger lines aren't really needed till much higher HP (800ish?). They don't get me more HP right now.

The plan is the engine bay is getting blacked out with a few polished aluminum billet accent pieces.

Upgrade Path.
Hit 540WHP (Track ready) (30-35psi)
Wait for stock 6bolt bottom end to fold like cheap suit.
Build New Engine. Hit 600WHP. (Built 2.0 (10K Rpm) or 2.3?) (35-45PSI)
Wait for drivetrain to fold like cheap suit.
Build drivetrain
Move on to bling
Then maybe shoot for 750HP (Crank)

+1 on the Nylon, much nicer stuff to work with, I also find the braided with red/blue fittings so played out it's not funny.

On pump gas you should be ok to 600hp or so on stock lines, E-85 changes the game significantly.

I would go 2.1 destroker or 2.0 long rod. You'll be wrecking more drivetrain parts on a 2.3L. Almost all the fast guys are 2.0

My bets are you'll destroy the stock drivetain before the stock 6 bolt.

With a properly tuned stock 6 bolt bottom end you should be able to destroy a good chunk of the old stock drivetrain before the engine skips a beat.

No progress on the car yet. But I did pick this up while I was up north. Time to practice! $700 cash. 1 full tank and a half tank.

It ate into my budget for this year, but... it will be worth it. (and retains it's value well if ever I decide welding is not for me)

Spool gun and all, you got a nice deal!

Hit up a local machine shop or metal supply place and get lots of scraps, practice all kinda of joints and check out this site for lots of very good guides. http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/

Yeah that's a wicked deal!! Spool gun is the only thing I have left on my list of things I need.

Retains it's value!? You got a crazy steal, you could easily sell each of those tanks for 200 each! I am hoping to grab my tank this week and get to work soon. Right now nothing aluminum needs welding so no rush on the spool gun but if I start to find a few things that do then I will have to grab one.

Make sure you take some pictures and post up your progress!!

Is one tank c25 and the other pure argon?

FYI, don't expect to do any thin aluminum with a spool gun very well, it's more for materials a minimum 1/8" thick so unless you have stuff like that to do it's not something I would rush out and buy.

Thanks for that Jason, I guess I will have to reevaluate when it gets to the point that I need it.

They are both pure Argon. He only welded 1/8" aluminum. The welder was bought for 1 project (aluminum dock framing) and that was it. The two tanks was because refilling was over a 1 hour drive to get. He didn't want to run out mid project.

Thanks for the link J. Will check it out. I found this also:
http://www.gowelding.org/

Now I just need to wire the garage for 240v (downside of the 180. No 120 volt option)

Here is our new Official Welding Thread: http://www.ca.dsm.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=447755

Ah ok, well that's alright! Good call on the thread, I will post some stuff once I get started.

240v in the garage is well worth it and not that difficult to add, in all honesty a 120v welder is pretty limited so it's not really a downfall that it's only 240v.

If I were in your boat I would probably trade in both those tanks towards a single M(110cf) size of 75/25, it'll last you a lot longer and not much difference in the refill price.

by downside, I just meant I can't just jump into it. I need to do work before doing work and I still need to get a mask, gloves, 240v extension ($$$$) and scraps. Welding table?

Turns out the cart was meant for mastercraft welder. Doesn't fit the Lincoln well. Also only holds a 20cuft bottle.

I wanted to start working on the talon. Not home wiring

So here is a question regarding Meth. Should I use it with 91 octane? or with 94 still? 91 is easy to find everywhere. 94, not so much when you head north.

91 is fine, I am lazy so I have my car tuned on 91 so I didn't have to go searching for 94 everytime I needed to fill up. Then just add the meth. I would get a 91 tune down pat first though then add meth.

Let a welding table be your first welding project

I thought welding cart modifications was the first welding project?!!!

Ok. Table too.

Done!

Yeah once I get gas welding cart will be one of my projects I do.

I took her out last night and all was good in the world. (granted, I forgot how laggy it was)..

Today went out on my lunch (25degrees) and all was good but at stop lights or after a pull and slowing to stop, check engine would come on (overtemp. 223F) It would eventually get back but this year, shifting priority.

I MUST concentrate on cooling system. I just hope the pump isn't going.

I can throw 70/30 + WW into it a be ok.. but when temps drop on cold nights, engine start to run in the 150-160s at highway speeds (little too low)

P.S. The aggressive people are back. Tailgating. Taking off peeling from a light if I am next to them. Black Talons are worse than other color talons. My buddy Tom had borrowed my car (he had a green one).. A truck attempted twice to run him off the road. Never happened in his green one. >.<

Yeppp... Out in full force too.

What lane are you in when they are tailgating?

In Germany, that is how you tell the car in front of you to move over, although they rarely need to be told. Other than Mercedes drivers, who feel they own the road, they generally pull over on their own if they are in the left hand (passing) lane and see anyone in their rear view mirror.

And yes, let's set the record straight...the left lane is not the fast lane. The fast lane is a drive through lube thing at a Ford dealership. The left lane is the PASSING lane. If you are not passing anyone, get the F___ out of the left (passing) lane!

Yup, very true. The I see less of them seeing as I'm on the road at 3-4am and back on around 2pm.

It does get annoying (tailgaters), especially when you're in the right lane. That and way more people on their phones not paying attention, even though that's illegal now.

Phone thing really pisses me off now, at least when it was legal you could kind of watch the road now they have the phone hidden so they aren't paying attention at all.

I am generally tailgated from lights as I accelerate. Merging on to the QWE, a van was tailgating me before the apex. After the apex, he wasn't able to keep up.

Again this afternoon, I caught up to someone in the PASSING lane who was doing 105 for a good 2 kilometers (while he was "passing" people"). When he moved over for me, I gave it a shot past him and settled at 120. He pulled back out and tailgated me @ 120. (funny, 105 was his speed before I passed him)

The story about Tom. Two lane highway at a light. Tom in my car left lane. Truck in right lane. Light goes green tom bangs through gears up to 130 and then backs off to 120 and moves into right lane. He sees the truck coming up fast. Truck moves left lane and starts to pass him. The truck then pushes him onto the shoulder and almost into the ditch. Tom powers past him and gets back in front. Guy does it again! Tom once again avoids it and flies through all the gears to get mass distance on him. Truck is coming at mach 10. Tom jams the brakes and the truck locks them up cause someone out in left lane. Tom back on the gas to get away. Truck is coming again. Tom has had enough.. opens the sun roof and as soon as the truck seems like he is going to rear end tom, he throws his Full Bottle of pepsi out the sunroof and hits the guy in the grill. The truck let off after that.

One time Tom and I gave the talons a little rip down a backstretch. There was a van behind us. By the end of 4th, we let off. That van should not have caught up as fast as he did. he pulls up next to us. Some guy with wife in front seat and 3 kids in the back. He is yelling at us saying if he had a sports car he would have been faster. We reemed him out for doing over 180 in a minivan full of kids. There is a time and place to have fun! Not with your kids in the car!

I HATE when people do this. You were going slow and blocking the way for ages and now all of a sudden when you get passed you're a speed demon? The best is when you move right again they don't pass, they just kinda stay a bit behind you, as if you being 5 feet ahead is going to make make you the preferred target of any cops out there.

Even worse are the people who don't move under any circumstance but when you go to pass them (sometimes on the right, if need be and depending on the roadway) they speed up to block you.

As Ziggy said, the left lane is for passing and nothing but...

I need to build up an old Humvee and use it to knock cars out of the left lane

I always thought it would mske more sense to have everyone drive on the left lane. The right lane would be for any other manouvers... such as ovrrtaking and merging off and on the highway.
You wouldnt be able to overtake during merge sections... and merging vehicles would have alot more safe space to catch up to traffic.
Obviously this would only work for 4 lane highways.

That and have the 3rd lane on the left for 120+kms madatory on 6 lane highways.

This is why when I make a lane change, I don't signal until I am 3/4 of the way into the lane. I also won't signal a lane change if I am pulling in front of someone I had to pass on the right. I figure they are too stupid to do anything with the information that I am making a lane change anyways, and they don't DESERVE to be signalled.

+1 I do the exact same thing.

Little experiment I did for fun... In all seriousness, between the 5% tint all around and this a good 80-90% of tailgating stopped.

I would love to rock one of these on my windshield

LOL Lucian, is that the elantra?

Something like this?

https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16339&page=3

Would have loved to get the plate

R3V0 3V0M

Absolutely

Ok. So tonight I went to install the AFPR. Everything was going smoothly. I was happy! Until... I go to assemble the AFPR.




Now.. I triple checked to make sure I wasn't crazy.. but was I sent the wrong fitting for my rubber hose return line? The male to male is supposed to fit into the male to barb correct?! It's too small.

Can RTM or someone chime in to confirm I am not crazy and got wrong part?

Here what it should look like. You got the wrong fitting

Abbas sent you the wrong fitting, I told him to get on it and send you the correct one

I am on it. Very sorry about this. Get you the right one out asap.

Thank you both and wish I could make it to DynoTune day.

Today was proof that my work guestimates.. are never accurate.
1 AFPR hour job turned into 13 hours and a fenderless car.




Changed to proper width coupler for intake to turbo.

Installed AFPR w/ issues

After the AFPR install (talk about no room to work with), I attempted to fix my HID going out problem (it was the bulb. I swapped ballast sides and the same one went out. Being in the power steering side of things, off came bumper and fender.




I removed the light, put new bulb in (had spare 8K's laying around).. now it won't light up at all. (high beam works). Put old 5k flickery bulb in. Nothing.

12Volts to the input of Ballast. Didn't measure output (didn't know voltage).

I swore. Then shut everything down. Gonna ditch the HID and put in some Sylvania SilverStars 9006 for now

Does any DSM project ever respect a timeline? lol

Get yourself some PIAA bulbs, better than the SilverStars, little pricier but brighter and whiter.

Don't measure the output, it's quite high (50k volts IIRC) and can hurt you. Swap the ballasts around and see if the problem follows it, it can be a ballast issue too.



Never.

What Anthony said.....ever seen a voltmeter explode? Lol

I also ditched the hids for Sylvania.

Far too many issues. I literally own over 10 kits.

Some would only last a few days, others, months.

Electrical was the only course in highschool hit high 90s in. I knew the voltage was high and I knew I wasn't going to measure it.

Though I did open up the Ballast from the HID that was flickering / going out. Found a capacitor free floating inside. Removed it, Sealed back up. That ballast works great now. It was the non problematic ballast that just stopped working. >.<

I opted for Sylvania Silverstar Ultras to save a few bucks.




PIAA or LED when I look at replacing the housings.

Was going to steal the ballasts from the 300C when the car dies.

LED have the same issue as HID's in a halogen housing, they don't cast the light correctly and piss off all the oncoming drivers.

AFPR in. Everything buttoned up..

Take her out. Mash throttle. Pulls nice till about 12-15 PSI then nothing. Just holds 15psi and is forcing to accelerate. She is making tons of noise.

I will need to check for boost leaks again (I checked up to 10PSI. I am scared of my BLT :P). Though if it was boost leak, AFR would read Rich. Not Mass Lean. As I get closer to 15 PSI.. AFR numbers go up and then to ---.

I suspect I just need to retune now with proper base fuel pressure and she is so lean she can't make power. I dunno. Hopefully not faulty AFPR. >.>

I just want to put old FPR in and drive

Update: Boost leak tested up to 20 PSI. no leaks. (other than my tiny throttle body one)

And extra note. The low end when driving around is smoother since the AFPR.

Ok. It's that time. I had an hour tonight.. so I went out.

I first idled. Got my idl CombFT to between -3 and +3.
I then got my airflow between 0.23 and 0.26

I adjust the OpenLoopThreshMax Table to 1.1 across both top two lines and went for a drive never going more than half throttle.

Car is starting to feel great just cruising. Except for one issue.

When I get on the gas, AF's shoot through the roof. (18,8) the car hesitates and it will slowly correct and come back. It happens when I get on it quick.. or sometimes.. I tip in, hold at 20% throttle while I get going.. all of sudden, drop in power and AF's just climb.

I attached a short log. Any thoughts?
I cranked the tip in. It helped a bit up in the higher rpms shifts and getting back on.. but down low.. no diff. Weird how I held a certain pedal pos and AF just kept climbing even though TPSDelta is 0.



ECMLink Log

Base Tip Ins

0 7
1 23
2 46
3 59
4 67
5 74
6 86
7 97
8 117

Ignore it. Solved. Just talking to myself

Let us know how you fixed it so others will know too!! I assume you adjusted your tip in settings.

Honestly.. patience and not rushing it

I got frustrated too quick and cranked the TipIn. I suspect tipin was way too high. So it gave so much gas it was drowning everything and making the car lean out after trying to recoup.

So I had already done this:

CombinedFT (-5/+5) (Adjust Deadtime)
Airflow/Rev 0.25 (+/- 0.05) (Adjust SD Table)
OpenLoop Tune Non Wot.

I ignored driveability and kept going.
I reset Tip In and just continued with rinsing and repeating the following.

--LOOP--
Half Gear WOT pull @ 10psi
Adjust Global Fuel to either lower or increase WB closer to AFREstimate.
CombinedFT (Adjust Deadtime)
--END LOOP--

Once AFR (WB) and AFREstimate overlapped I stopped.

I went from
Global Fuel -39.7 to -25.0
Injector Deadtime 340ms to 280ms.

I still need tweaking in SD table but driveable. (Still a minor hiccup, but I can tune that out) I turned the boost up to 20 and almost exact same AFR. Sweet!I have noticed that I am running between 11.6 to 12.3 AFR into the higher boost. But there is no knock. I suspect my Wideband being installed in rear is causing a lean reading when in fact its rich or stoich). In my previous tuning sessions, I found 11.8 to 12.3 to be a sweet spot for no knock and mass power.

Side note. I brought the car to work today to store it as I need the garage to get winters off the daily's. It's raining. I never take her out wet.

I leave a light, get into 2nd and mash it. I thought my clutch was slipping until the back end started hanging out to the left. All wheel spin! (Crap tires and I am making more power than my old talon did). That was fun. No more rain for her.
She is so much more behaved during light to mid throttle. Loving it. Next few months, get TB leak and Exhaust Leaks fixed.

I ended up getting two side jobs that are paying ludicrous money. That is my priority right now. Day Job + Side job = 80-90 hour work weeks. but side jobs pay 3 times more than my well paid day job for same amount of time.

Ah ok, I am hoping the car won't need much tuning once I get on the road but I imagine that won't be the case so good to see what others are doing.

Does your est and actual over lap during idle? what size injectors you got there?

Now I am curious as to what this mystical side job is!?

They are close and cross each other. I am running (guessing here).. 780cc PTE Injectors. I didn't install. previous owner did and I don't bug him anymore with the car stuff.

This is suggested:
PTE / Delphi 780cc -38 Global 315 Deadtime
Modified GM Rochester 17113742 injector. Actual flow: 748cc
and this was very close to what I was running when I was overflowing regulator.

As for side job: over the past three years, I developed my own "framework" in php. It's pretty basic, but it works very well. It's the same framework I was build our DSM Bible site with.

I have 1 client who I do work for that pays ok and it's just wordpress stuff.

The other one is developing a fully customized web based financial reporting system. I am basically trying to automate a person's data gathering and reporting and display reports through a dashboard to all partners of a firm.

Ah ok, I think mine was similar with the old car, will need to take a look how this car is.

Wow that's wicked!! I was trying to get into the wordpress stuff as I figured I could do some side stuff as well. My first plan was to redo my father in laws website as it hasn't been touched in over 5 years and is looking very dated. I am just struggling to get really into it, partly because I am only hosting it locally and can't seem to get it so that my other computers can access it properly. I would have to come downstairs and seclude myself to work on it and I know my wife wouldn't agree with that so I don't make time to work on it, I may setup remote access and get to work like that but we shall see.
Also this was the theme I was using as he has a very good walkthrough.
https://tyler.com/

Bah. I just went out this afternoon, and Combined FT is farked again. -15 to -9. Was fine last night!

And for some reason, I increase deadtime to reduce the number.. the number goes down more -21 to -15. lol.

We need to start a Web Services thread.

Hm that's odd, on maf right? Do your maf readings look similar to yesterday?

I am SD. I am going to change my sig to something useful!

My new art pieces have come in. Brake Fluid Reservoir and Clutch Fluid Reservoir brackets. AWESOME.






On another side note... garage door scraped my pristine rear bumper. Long story. Hate myself.

Those are fancy!! Where are they from?

This does look very good

Some variations in CombinedFT is normal. I would only compare those after driving DSM for at least 20 -30 mins on the fully hot engine including at least on WOT. Also, i use my factory boost gauge for LTFT so i can always see how well things line up, very useful for me.

GSX Dude from Germany.

DSM Tuner Thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/ch...reservoir-bracket.503122/#post-153589558



"Talk to me Jesse. This ain't workin brother"
"It's your fuel man. It's got a nasty hole"

Since AFPR, I went from having an SD table up in the 75 to 99 range to now 50-80. My Global fuel went from -39 to -12 and fuel injectors deadtime went from +245ms, -30ms.

I have run the car at 12.6 to 13.2 AFR (WB reading) and 0 knock. Great power. (1 degree of knock starts at 13.8)
Idle CombinedFT is good.

I think I need to resolve the exhaust leaks because WB AFR reading is most likely wrong. Should I move the WB to the O2 housing for better results also?

Now that I have forced WB AFR for match AFREst, fuel is dumping out tail pipe on WOT.. and she doesn't feel as good.

In my throttle position, I have areas where the thing goes mass lean and stumbles (around 20% throttle).. annoying. When the car is not at operating temp, she stalls a lot coming to lights.

Cool thanks!

I think it's a preference thing, I personally just went with factory location.

Just adjust your AFR table so that you get it to the ratio you want. I think I agree with you though, something seems off.

This one I am not sure about, maybe an issue with ISC or a leak. you still running water lines to the throttle body?

Take your NB and toss it in the trash. Install WB in front O2 hole select simnb in link and never look back. Nb's are redundant sensors if you have a WB not even usefull to tell you you have an inefficient cat once you have link.

Yeah. I still have coolant lines running to TB.

I am still hitting that 6500rpm loss of power wall. I am going to blame the intake and just finally get a SMIM or cast Magnus one. And if I do that, I'll do their S90 billet 74mm.

Today I did a coolant change and changed the thermostat.
30% coolant + ww. 70% water
Let it warm up to op temp, it hit 186 and then dropped to 176. just kept repeating. No fans. Quite happy she is running cooler now.

I am going to have to source a second O2 housing and re-examine getting side exhaust with cut out.

Seeing I need to fix the o2 to dp leak. i'll see what I can do. thank you.

Definitely fix that exhaust leak before you trust a downstream WB. Your leak can pull Oxygen during its negative pulses.

Here's a fun fact.

I was rummaging through all the spare parts I got with my talon when I bought it. I know the engine was a donated from a 1G. Look at what I found.




I remember a photo of a silver 1g the seller sent me, so I searched for Gore on here. And found: Pseidon's 1990 Eagle Talon

Yup. Jeremy, I have your engine (and rad). Looks like car was parted out.

Charles, I am going to assume with that size of injectors that over running your intake manifold is not the issue you are dealing with. What's link say your lb/min are?

As for the water lines to the tb, I would run the car than pull the tb and see if you have any water on the isc.

For those operating temps you need to check to see what it is for 2g, I thought it was 180 so you will be flipping back and forth between closed loop and open loop. I know 1g is 190 but pretty sure I heard 2g is lower.

This is my test run @ 22psi. I am only using HP numbers to show the butt dyno loss of power feel.

I hit peak HP by 5600rpm
HP: 334 -- Airflow 35lbs -- 22psi

by 6800 rpm
HP: 275 -- Airflow 40lbs - 20psi.

My loss of 2 psi is interesting. I always shut my pulls down at 6800 as the car feels like she is really forcing to accelerate.

my 180 was with cap off and idle for 5 mins.
On the road I am more around 190-200.

Gonna stop trying to diagnose till all my leaks are fixed. Maybe cams (272 or 280) may be in order before the stock intake manifold.

The intake isn't your problem, and you're a long, long ways from needing that kind of throttle body. That's a lot of money that could be better spent elsewhere.

Start by fixing the problems you know about (exhaust leaks). Then get your tune figured out. Then see if you're still hitting the wall.

What's your timing doing during these pulls?

Exactly what my table says.
in range stated above going from 12 to 10.
Haven't tried seeing if I could advanced since I installed AFPR.

Top table is my table (not really modified since purchase).
Bottom table is the default ecmlink table.



I know I tried in the past and it did not like 11 or high near redline.

Maybe I should try and start over with all the tables.
Evo3 tables?

What do your logs say your timing is doing? The ECU will pull timing if it thinks there's an issue and you'll get the symptoms you're experiencing. I'm just trying to figure out if that's what's going on.

The fact that you're getting more airflow but have substantially less power suggests that your timing is getting pulled back.

Logs say

5600 -> 12.0
6800 -> 9.6

There is no timing being pulled. Just doing what the Timing table is set to.

Okay cool, cross that off the list. Probably a good idea like you said to fix the leaks then go back to trying to diagnose

Charles you should post up a log.

Agreed 100%. I'm flowing 58lbs/min through a 1g throttle body and Evo 2 IM.

I tried to move the timing up after 6000 (everything up to 12).
Knock Knock...



12 deg Timing @ 6k - LOG FILE

10 deg Timing @ 6800k Rich - LOG FILE


It really is only happy with 10 degrees up top.

And more shtuff. I went for a cruise to Norwood. My coolant change didn't fair so well. Great when weather is cold.. but daytime 25 degrees, she is in the 220 zone and climbs if I drop speed to 100 instead to 120. (seems as though when RPMs drop, cooling effect drops). Could also be speed not as much air passing in rad, but... bad water pump? Maybe I have a pocket of air. I had to crank the heater to get temps to stay @ 210. it's 20% coolant, 80% water + Water Wetter.

Frick n Frackn.

This morning burped the system. Same problem. 216+ (no heater on). I turned the rad fan on full in link and temp dropped to 210 on highway. I'll try fixes in steps.

#1. Improve Flow to Rad
- Air Dam / Shroud
- Create a small ramp to help air up and over the FMIC

#2. Heat Shields on Manifold and O2
- Bought Manifold Blanket
- Will custom fab O2 housing one.

If above fails..

#3. Find a way to get a second pusher fan in between condenser and rad. Or just in front of condenser and lose this sheet metal on the back of one side of the rad

[/quote]


If all else fails... Yank Condenser.
Was hoping eventually I could have AC. /sniff

#causeracecar

Yes, you need to get rid of that piece of metal on the driver side.... like we said when you first posted it up, a properly sealed shroud is a big help. That thing is a huge hindrance.

Dump that metal. There is very little air flow there even with those holes drilled in.

P.S racecars don't need AC 😆

Also most slim fans don't move nearly as much air as the oem rad fan.

i use SPAL fans instead OEM. Pull more/near CFMs than stock



rated for 1640 CFMs. Takes less space than OEM

I agree the slim fan doesn't move as much cfm.....but he is also having highway high temps...fans arent really the concern. Airflow across the rad is. Dump the metal and some proper ducting will probably fix it right up. You should also check the condition of your condenser from fins could be bent or saturated in oil impeding airflow aswell.

Also a new OEM rad cap might be a good idea.

Thanks for info. I thought there was some argument back in the day to LEAVE the thing because it helped the fan out. My mistake. I will remove.

Yes.. I would need a very slim fan. The clearance between the rad and waste-gate arm is 2.25" And obviously.. it can't sit right against it and clearance for heat shield. Let's say 1-3/4" fan (inc motor).

So I did manage to rebuild my throttle body today. not too painful. After some contemplating on cooling... I decided:

1. Let me take the battery out so I can change the fuel filter and run a couple more wires through firewall for gauges at a later date. Ah crap.. main stereo power wire slipped out of the connector. Good job previous owner.

2. #1 turns into: Oh yeah. Stereo Main amp for speakers has been cutting out (started acting up a couple days ago). Front speakers aren't working anymore, I should replace with better mid bass speakers (front and rear). I should also remove that 750w 4 channel amp and just use main deck. I don't like the way he ran wires one passenger and 1 driver for 4ga wire to trunk amps. I want to clean that up.

3. #2 turns into: Well, If i delete the 750w 4 channel amp, I have to rewire speakers back to stock head unit and delete extra power cable to trunk. I might as well relocate the battery cause I will be in that area removing wire anyway.

4. #3 turns into: Well if battery is in trunk, I can remove number 4 gauge power wire on driver side for sub amp.

5. #4 turns into: I have to remove center console to do all this, I might as well install short shifter kit. Right? Easier to move around with no front seats.. right?

6. #5 turns into: Might as well remove back seats too. Make life easier. What are they good for? Nothing. Let's make it a two seater and do a custom fiberglass deck for where the rear seats used to be.

7. #6 turns into: if I have all that out, I might as well replace the carpet.

8. #7 turns into: but before carpet, I really should deal with the sunroof sliding cover that is destroyed and will leave fluff everywhere when I try to remove it. Hey.. I think a nice black paisley silk would look goods to recover it. Maybe I should do the whole headliner thing.



You see how this is going right? Damn DSM avalanche!!!

What are you using for Coolant?

Would love to see how number 6 turns out, haha!

Also will add there is nothing wrong with slim fans BUT you will be spending a sh!t load of money to get one that will flow what the stock ones did. Pusher fans are a nice option too but it seems your issue is during speed so that peace of medal removed should help a lot.

Also no A/C is always good, haha. You could always go 3 core rad too, but I am not a fan of this option because you may be hiding an issue you could fix for less money.

Proper shrouding for the radiator works wonders. If it's shrouded and you have nothing blocking the airflow going through the radiator, you should have no problems unless there's something more serious causing the problem.

Like a head gasket lol

That has crossed my mind. But if temp outside is below 15.. she is well behaved. 186-196 highway. No white smoke. No coolant smell when I mash throttle. I don't lose coolant. Oil and Coolant look clean (coolant did seem to collect some rust from the block from winter storage)

I still have not done a leak down test. Only compression.

I am hoping you are using distilled water...

Yes sir.

My tablet holder came in! Priorities!

Try a Coolant pressure tester. Can be had for $50'ish plus an adapter (for dsm) from PA.

This topic is beat to death every year and there's a really good write up by Ryan lalibert (I think).. Too lazy to find the link... Alex?

Oh and I asked what you're using for Coolant. I run water wetter and distilled only.

Nice, so just use the front seat bolt? I thought about getting one of those but wasn't in the mood for spending 50+

DSM cooling system

Thank you!! Added to the bible.
DSM Bible - Cooling



Flexible Car Floor Seat Gooseneck Mount Holder for 7-10.1 inch Tablet PC



Look at my SIG!!! I like to lube my pump. So I like 20% coolant along with Water Wetter

So here is my childish drawring. I saw Andrew Brilliants idea of tilting the intercooler back a bit and adding this ramp fin across. I won't be able to tilt it back but adding the fin will cause the air at the top to not clip the top of FMIC and become too turbulent. As well will force all air below through the FMIC. I don;t see a way to efficiently scoop air from below FMIC to rad.



Going to buy some aluminum sheet and this



Once I duct, I should be ok

I will try and leave that sheet in place as I suspect during idle, fan will kick on and simply suck in hot air from engine and not from the front of the rad if I leave it open. Adding a second fan that also comes on would be the only way.

the sheet? you mean that perferated thing in behind the rad? Remove it, going get some foam from home depot and seal the shroud the the rad if you are really worried about that.

Also if you cut a whole in your hood right behind the rad all the hot air can get out easier. Jeremy did this and it looks good and made a big difference.

I would never use that cell stuff for pipes in that area.

Rated to 83c (170F). In that proximity to the Turbo/Manifold, wouldn't risk it.

That is why I need my CF hood. The two nostrils from the CF hood on my previous Talon.




Got photos of Jeremy's hole?

I am sure there is something rated for 250+

Seems jamie has a similar hole
http://www.ca.dsm.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=442397

I can't seem to get a better picture

You can get commercial fiberglass stuff.
https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/PIPE-INSULATION-FIBERGLASS-0-63-IN/_/R-WWG4LFH2
Temp. Range 0 to 850°F


It's one of my biggest peeves about forums. Images disappear over time due to user hosting.

So you are really into a thread with awesome photos and poof.. they start being all broken. All big forums should host the photos or at least keep a smaller res backups and add

Yes completely agreed, it's the worst when you find a walkthrough that had detailed picture but is now not helpful without.

Luckily these are DSM's, and just about anything you can imagine or want has been done and beaten to death on just about every forum. So if you can't find it on here, DSMtalk or Toonerz probably has something very similar.

How firm is the tablet holder? Doesn't flop around?

Not worried about the seat bolt part. Not worried about the neck to bracket bolt (I used blue loctite the thing)

The neck is ok and the clamp to tablet is nicely padded with grippy stuff. I positioned the tablet so leaning on the dash to avoid that jiggle. (I hope)

What will worry me is the ball grip on the back. Ball is metal and ring + fingers are plastic. Hand tight may not be enough. Haven't taken her out since last weekend. Stupid sidetracked projects so I haven't tested. I will report back if and when I do.

I want to do the ducting and flush rad again to keep my temps down before I take it out again.

Sorry, didn't notice the essay you typed up for your sig.

And I like your pic. Geometry isn't 100% and the wind isn't going fast enough

Oh and thanks Alex.

That man is like a memory locker. Good on you!

The FMIC covers just a little more than half the rad.



Luckily, the rad has folds on the ends that I can hook the sheet metal duct side panels into. (my cardboard demo)

Looking top down

I was going to order one but I'm too impatient and just made a mount last night lol.

Ugh. Full day in the garage. Ducting complete.

I put the throttle body back on (I rebuilt last weekend, but I ordered 90TB kit (14mm, 12mm seal). TB was a damn 91. So I reused a metal casing and jabbed a rubber oring in it). Fit nicely. Throttle shaft felt good sitting in it.

well.. today I found out.. doesn't hold worth beans. can't even pump 1PSI pressure into it. Leaking from TPS side (which is my makeshift seal).

FRAK!

RTM.. just take my money. Not gonna order just 1 seal.. nooooo.. I must buy min 200$ if going to ship anyway

lol that's good that they have kits now, back when I rebuilt mine i order from USA

So I got the parts (Big thank you to RTM for speedy delivery)
Got the shaft seal installed... and... @ 7 PSI.... pSSSSSssssSssss.

What the Flargenflugen! Injector seals are pissing out air. (TB sounds quiet. Maybe). Mind you, I am doing this boost leak test with a cold engine. Thoughts? Cold engine should seals be holding? Let me know. I want to get this car moving by the weekend.

Also, my overly expensive manifold blanket came in. Very nice. Very expensive, but very nice. Thick and padded, It's big, but it will work. I also noticed my manifold to turbo gasket has a crack on the turbo side. Left soot on top of the turbo. I believe the whole thing is ported, so not sure how well the stock manifold to turbo multi layer gasket will do there.

Oh yeah. And did I mention I failed to check on my tires since I pulled it out of storage? Front passenger tire inside is farked. Ugh. Appointment to get front end checked out. If all tight, 4 wheel alignment. She won't see much road time with a tire like that.

Cold engine should still be sealing for sure! If the injector seals were never replaced they could be rock solid, i would just double check they are soft

It should have been ported to match the gasket.

Hopefully it's nothing big and you can get it on the road soon!

It should seal at all times. Injector seals are pretty notorious for drying out and leaking.

Test everything with soapy water to be 100% sure, seals, couplers. Sometimes a leak is so big it doesn't even hiss.

I find a old contact lense solution bottle works great for the soapy water test. Doesn't foam when you squirt it. Finds many a microscopic leak. Put the water in first and then lots of soap. Roll it around gently a few times to mix it up and spirit away.

Lol! All seals and gaskets should seal cold and warm...it makes no nevermind what temp you are doing a blt at. But soapy water is a must...hissing is a false sign you could have not set your valves correctly and air is just flowing by them.

So I got all intake leaks dealt with. Yay.

I changed the fuel filter, dealt with a minor cross thread leak issue (minor issue, long time to fix it. And I just got lucky more than anything.) Amazing how much fuel 340lph pump can dump in 5 seconds.

Turn on pump again, mass leak at the last injector (top/rail). Remove it, put an old o-ring back on the injector. No more leaks.

Finally get the whole car back together. Run it for 10 mins with rad cap off and things look good. Idle is a little high. Notice the throttle wasn't snapping closed properly.

I got out later this evening to check things. Forgot to bolt in fender liner front passenger. That got chewed.

Then the idle started climbing. 1200, 2000, 3000. Pain to shift. Even more painful sitting at lights. I brought it home. Looked at the car in disgust and called it a night. I suspect I will need to give the throttle body spring one extra wind. I am positive I had done it properly.

At least my coolant and ducting seems to have helped, but I won't really know until I drive it in hot weather.

Ugh. I think I just put too much tension on the cruise cable.

Now I just need to wait for a wheel alignment. Thanks all for putting up with me!

Who needs cruise control!?

Good stuff though glad to hear you made some progress.

I do. It prevents me from getting speeding tickets on long highway cruises. I want to try and relocate it to just above the rear engine mount.

So I took it out this morning to store it at work. Now that there are no leaks and the TPS is set at 0.61 (she was happier there). There are no drive-ability issues. I can high rev it, let rpms fall and she nicely sits at 1K not dropping below.

Side note, the TPS was at 0.43 and she was falling to 200rpm before catching. Once I set to 0.61 solved the falling rpm.

I am getting the knock sensor picking up knock now at WOT around 5K rpm. 3 counts. I am starting to wonder if the injectors are causing it. They are ridiculously loud. At first I thought it may be my lifters, but I'm really not sure now.

Keeping fingers crossed about alignment and it just being suspension. Not frame.

Haha fair enough.

How much boost are you seeing? have you checked duty cycle?

Seeing 26PSI. And not waivering like before. Hits 26 and stays there by .2 PSI (till I saw knock).

I am seeing a lot more instances during cruise (33% throttle) stuff (always 0.3 to 0.7)..

I may loosen the fuel rail by a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I put it on kinda tight. I was trying to make sure the injectors seated

I also noticed a very loud single tick/knock sound when I pull up quickly on the throttle cable (sound coming from injector area) I recorded it on video, but it's not very clear.

I want to head up to 1200cc or 1600cc injectors anyway. Just waiting for a deal.

And I bought the same one, new tuning solution is complete!

I want cruise for the same reason as you but ended up getting rid of it.
I'd rather an electric set up but that would mean drive by wire.

I am looking at this:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/cruise-control-unit-relocation.378642/#post-152290716

or this

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/cruise-control-relocate-remove.417102/#post-152759745

Has anyone ever done drive by wire for talon?

No but as you come to know Anthony you will learn that there aren't many things that he does that have been done before!

Not that I know of.

I know DWB is available on the new Haltech Elite ECUs but you are on your own to find a sensor to fit your throttle body and swapping the gas pedal.
It's something for future thought but I'm a long ways away from needing an ECU like that (I need my sh!t to just run first lol).

It's a sickness.....

I don't think DBW is something I'd want. Every vehicle I've driven with it I kinda hate a little. There's always a slight delay in throttle response, I don't like the pedal feel, it's too consistent like you know you're not actually doing the work, feels wrong to me. Not being able to blip the throttle while working under the hood is real annoyance as well.

Maybe I'm just old

Yeah too me it's the being able to blip the throttle while under the hood.

If you have throttle delay it's probably in the programming, if everything is set perfectly you shouldn't notice a delay at all.

Every GM vehicle I've driven has a delay, from early 2000's to even my brothers new 2016 Silverado has it, it's minute, but it's there. My Volvo has it too. It will never be as direct as a cable.

My new civic has a slight but noticeable delay too, it's especially terrible when in Eco mode but that's to be expected.

Even with a "tuner box" thats supposed to remove the delay (or reduce delay), it still exists.

Those are all consumer level vehicles, I took the porche out and had no idea it was drive by wire.

Also I think a bigger concern with performance vehicles is the delay YOU cause by shifting, I am sure that is far larger than a tuned drive by wire.

I'm not worried about a time delay when racing the clock, from 2-step to the finish line my foot never lifts, I just don't like that delay when casually driving. I'll have to say GM's are particularly bad with it. It was much less noticeable on my friends 2015 Ram.

On a side note, the Tesla model S didn't seem to have a delay that I could feel lol.

As someone who does engine calibration for an OEM I can tell you that with drive-by-wire there are many, many more maps, parameters, emissions controls, etc. that come in to play for an ICE. For a purely electric vehicle there's not any of that so there's no reason there would or should be a delay. The only change I could see there being would be for different driving modes which would basically just change your torque multiplier to deliver more or less torque per degree of foot rotation.

Drive-by-wire allows for an extreme level of engine control and fine tuning that isn't present with cable throttle, including over things like emissions, which is why the car doesn't always respond right away. In today's day and age the driver doesn't always get what the driver wants if cars are to meet all the emissions, performance, and safety standards required of them. Delay with DBW is far more of an issue in AT-vehicles than vehicles with an MT or DCT just by nature of how the transmissions work. It's not necessarily that OEMs are trying to dull down pedal response, they're trying to make sure the vehicles have exceptional drivability which includes but is not limited to no clunks, bumps, surging, etc. and also smooth and quick response. With an AT - especially the newer ones with many gears - you almost always get shifts and so torque and other parameters need to be controlled to ensure smooth shifting and hardware longevity.

The other day I was watching how TB works in RX7 and was surprised how it was designed. Basically there are 3 plates and one opens first and second and third follows it later, it's all mechanical. Apparently it was designed to increase air velocity at low RPMs for more linear acceleration through out the RPM range.




Same trick can be used in Drive-by-wire TB but with single much larger plate, computer can limit throttle angle in reference to engine RPM to keep power more linear.

I wonder if you eliminated the ECU out of the equation and monitored speed and throttle position using an Arduino and having it make the adjustments based on throttle position (stepper motor to TB) and watch speed for cruise adjustements.



I digresss.

I do agree DBW isn't perfect. I have an annoying issue somewhere in the 10-15% range on my 300C. Occasionally she will act like I am at full throttle for about a half second. (only happens when I am taking off and I think mostly as I am making a corner). And it is a little slow to respond.

No point in going to DBW if you're not going to take advantage of it and do a lot of extra calibration that will make the car way more driveable (not something doable with the stock ECU or DSMLink). If you're going to keep it at basically a 1:1 ratio (50% pedal = 50% throttle) then just stick with cable throttle and call it a day. Especially in a manual trans vehicle.

K.I.S.S.

I'm not a huge DWB guy either, both my Ford and the wife's Jeep have it and it just feels odd. Hell blipping the throttle in my car feels funny.

However most manufacturers don't really care about performance. I know the system could be improved on.

Friken Fraken. Chuck Lavoie is feeling annoyed.

I went to my buddy's shop and checked out the car on the hoist. Things loog good. Tie rods may have a minute amount of play but almost negligible. Will change them before an alignment. All other parts look good up front. Nice and toight.

Driving home.. started getting a rubbing sound. We did nothing other than jack the front end up on the alignment machine. GRRRRR...

It's coming from under the shifter area. Definitely drive shaft related as any rolling of the car makes the rubbing sound (does not change with RPM or Clutch In/Out). I can feel it in the shifter. Video for your pleasure:



That's it! She is gone for the month. Don't want to see her. I'm only really annoyed because the 300C developed a thumping under braking so both cars have an issue.

Just to clarify, the speed of the driveshaft rotation affects sound duration. (nothing else affects it)

On way home, found deserted road. did 100 to 10 hard on brakes in the 300C, 4 times. The brake thumping is nearly gone now.

You've got a carrier bearing there.

Transfer case.

Maybe check for play in the bearing? Fluid in the tcase?

Thanks. I will check them out. Noticed no one carries the front carrier bearing. Out of stock everywhere.

Update: Nevermind. I see we can just use the rear one for the front.

Is anyone running the 2/3 aluminum shaft? I'm interested. Do I still need two bearings? or does that eliminate 1?

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/impor...950hp-3-5-aluminum-heavy-duty-driveshaft

It eliminates the first two sections.

Little update. Have been busy. Haven't done much to Bixley. Toying with getting Ali's tranny for her seeing I wrecked a seal on current one and third is getting notchy. But I like the dogbox idea.

The rad ducting now keeps the temps at 183 on the highway no matter what speed.

A bonus, I have seen a .4 to .6 volt increase from the alternator since removing that plate that blocked the second fan hole. 13.8 on the highway consistent (use to be 13.1 to 13.3) Guess more airflow around it is keeping it cooler and better regulator performance.

The rubbing noise went away after letting the car sit. It showed up for 2 mins during a drive, but went away again. I'll eventually check into it. No time yet!

So I decided to try and tackle the leaks (hot side).
Thanks to Garrett for coming over and helping out.
Got the manifold, turbo and dp seperated with 0 broken bolts.

By the time we stopped chatting about about cars and did some work dry fitting everything and placing all new gaskets, I couldn't find the anti-seize so called it a night.

This morning, I found it and go to install the OEM turbo bolts. Start tightening the 1st one (back left).. It's not binding as I put it in. I get it snug and set torque wrench to 20lb. I don;t even think I got 10 before it stripped the threads on the turbo housing. Ugh.

Same thing happened to the left front.

I kept going, the right side buttoned up just fine. WTH?

I took the old arp studs, tossed it into the front left and it bit and is holding. But that back one is toast. In the picture below it's just sitting in the hole.

Luckily the bottom is exposed enough I will try and buy a longer bolt from fastener place and put a nut underneath. Was so close to a perfect install!

The only other issues is the the head has 1 snapped stud and in another hole, the part helicoil fell out (both issues pre-existed my purchase of car) but the threads in the back were good enough to put the stud in. So only missing 1. >.>

At this point.. I will wait for the engine to blow before attempting to fix the head. I don't want to separate the head from block.

DSM SNOWBALL!

I found this: (which leads to more)


Then this:


Especially this: (yes. Near fuel pump)


Who needs clearly identifiable power wires!


Weight Savings:


Time to tackle some surface rust. things look good otherwise. Gotta grommet that one hole missing one.


MOAR weight savings:

WOW big work! Nice! What was that connector for?

im guessing factory amp under passenger seat, all my wires for mine were the same colour

It is the factory amp harness.

You should print yourself a copy of the body/chassis wiring diagram's found here; mitsubishilinks.com

Yes Sir. Factory Amp. Can't believe he just twisted and left unprotected. Actually. I can.. this car has had many surprises.

I want to remove that whole cable but it runs up into the dash and not sure I want to get that far and tear up some factory harness.

I hate the 50lb power leather seats. Would like to find something cozy in the 25-30lb range. No power needed

At this point, I think the battery relocation has to happen.

Soldering its a tough skill to master and tape is expensive

Crimp connectors is all I use

Marretts fo life!

Marrettes are super expensive.....unless you steal them from work.

Connectors are expensive.. even from China.

Solder and heatshrink. $0.01 / connection.

I only use marretts when I have to join a large gauge wire like when I miss calculated the main power wire that goes directly from the battery.

Wrap your professional union in some dollar store electrical tape and never look back!

BTW..there is a cure for the curse of the dsm "snowball", just buy a Subaru

Haha, this is enjoyable!

This shall not turn into a roast the Subaru guy.
This shall not turn into a roast the Subaru guy.
This shall not turn into a roast the Subaru guy.
This shall not turn into a roast the Subaru guy.
This shall not turn into a roast the Subaru guy.
This shall not turn into a roast the Subaru guy.
This shall not turn into a roast the Subaru guy.

- I hate the sound of flat 4.

- If I gave you only ARP head studs, what's the highest horsepower stock Subaru engine can handle before snapping a rod? 400HP? Highest recorded stock 6 bolt. 585whp and it never blew up.

- My buddies grandma owns a Subaru. Along with 2,000,000+ other people. Very unique

- Those new ones look just like a civic!!

- I don't want to be that Subaru guy that recommends everyone buy a Subaru. You know that guy I'm talking about right?

As you were gentlemen.

P.S. I would buy a Subaru as a daily but not my play car. Honestly though, how many WRX engines make it to 300K with no rebuilds or the engine sounding horrible.

Subaru's have Evo beat in the interior luxury department, but everything else I would go Evo first (if EVO owners didn't overprice their cars)

I bought an 8 year old TSI AWD for 11k. How much do Evo guys want for 8 year old car? Oh yeah, 20K+ Ridiculous.

My insurance is also 15$ a month.

Everything you just said is my Gospel!

Biggest +1 I'll ever give.

Bravo!

I love urabus's ...... when they are on Fire!

Yeah I am with Mike! Completely agree!

Pfff, ring lands will be gone long before 400hp.

I have a Subaru and it sounds like it's gonna blow up at 6k rpm with all of it's 165hp glory.

Also the stock 6 bolt record is 742whp

Half decent Evo 8's are going for $10-12k now in the states, so if you want to import it, tack on an extra 30%.

I shall add that to the FAQ! Is there a link I can state as the source?

Oops my bad, 749.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzR2fG-cDxQ

And what about my own favorite 2G 7bolt?

I don't think Corey Bowers ever dyno'ed his 2g but he went mid 9's on it, I want to say 9.79 and I think his car was around 2800lbs, that would put it at approximately 580hp.

Crickets from the Subaru Fans..

So stock 4G63 proven to make 374.5 HP / Litre.
Any other takers? lol.

And while on the topic...what about new aluminum beast in town the 4B11T ?

More updates.

Tablet Mount
Fist thing, as for the tablet mount that bolts to the seat bolt. Don't do it. Unless you NEVER put the passenger seat down to access the back. It prevents the seat from reaching full forward to engage the lock to return the seat to seating position. I had a ride home with the seat sliding forward and backward the whole way. UGH. I removed the mount.

Looking for
I am looking for a couple pieces. I may try mitsu to see if they still have them.

#1: Fuel Pump Metal Plate cover and the clips and screws. Mine starting rusting at the back I can only assume due to the split negative cable running across it.



#2: Clips for the HVAC control panel. I lost one side one.



#3: Floor Grommets

#4: Floor Secret Panel. Below drivers floor pan and allows access to the side channel in the belly of the vehicle. Mine is rusty. I may bring it into krown to get them to spray down that channel while I have it open.




I picked up a new stereo. One of those no CD types. Half Size. Weight SAVINGS!




Went to cash, they ringed it up at $129. Nuh uh. Go to customer service, the guy says ok, we are refunding 27 something. I said, what happened to the 10$ off wrong advertised price? BAM! 99$ stereo. Bluetooth, USB and sounds better than the previous system setup.




I truncated the harness that ran out to the stock amp location. Those are now tucked into short piece of loom and safe.




Cleaned up the back more. This is how the amp will be mounted once I create the fiberglass rear seat area cover.




Properly Run cables INSIDE the tracks provided by the manufacturer.




Gauge Holders (PVC Pipe and Velcro). Still need to wire them.




General overview of the cleaning job. Oh yeah. And megan short shifter installed. 50%. I could install it both ways, but one way brought the shifter way too close to the stereo. I assume that was backwards so I flipped it.



Curious as to why they put so many rubber grommets in the floor.

If you can't get the fuel pump cover I can coat it, done a few others.

I might have some of those HVAC clips, have a few of those plates kicking around.

Nice job on the wiring!

Agreed nice progress!!

I should have an extra fuel pump cover somewhere; if not you can have the one off my car. I need to make a new one to clear the -AN lines anyway....

I doubt either are rust free but it'd just be surface rust. A bit of paint and she'd be golden.

Thanks all. I started her up today. She warmed up without stalling. I changed the oil afterward. Not a fan of these tiny mitsu filters. WIX are big compared to them.

I didn't notice that the old oil filter gasket stayed stuck on the housing. Put on new filter, Fill oil, start her up, rev to 2K and PSSSSSSsssSSSSss... Turn off car. Amazing how much of a mess oil under pressure can make.

Ready for a test drive tonight.

Its how much the filter not how big they are. OEM filters are the best.....period.

Size doesn't matter applies true here.

----------------------------------------------------------

Still having the running hot issue at idle or low speed in 30C+. Sits at about 216-223 degrees with fan running. (tried opening hood for a couple minutes, no change)

When it's 21-22 out idle temps more around 213.

Anything above 80kph keeps it at 180-183 no matter how hot it is out.

I could help it out by running heat in cabin, but that is insane in 30C. Maybe time to do the water pump and timing belt and get some spal fans. I still can't bring myself to remove the AC condenser. Would love to get AC working in it, but that is a pipe dream I think.

Pressure test your coolant lines? Sounds like air in the system

Thanks Mike. Will do. Also, I don't remember a jiggle pin in my thermostat. And I read position matters.

I did another tune last night. Car is running great minus one thing. Tip In. The deceleration is so bad when it goes lean, causes your head to move forward for that split second. Not smooth.

I have played with increasing tip in. Makes it worse.
Tried stock. better but still bad enough to accelerating annoying. 0 across the board, almost as bad. Nothing I do seems to solve the tip in! (WB hits 17 to ---) for that split second.

I'm going to boost leak test again as my BoostEst and Map are about 5psi off after 6000rpm. But from what I read, lot of variables affect BoostEst so not a real deal breaker if off.

Actually it causes really bad bucking in low rpm. Higher rpm not so apparent.

If I remember correctly, if I force open loop mode, drives great!

Fuel Pressure was off. Set FP and from scratch new tune. Global Fuel and Deadtime with some smoothing of the SD table values has greatly improved things. Went from -10 Global fuel and -25ms deadtime to -25% fuel and 160ms deadtime.

Needs tweaking at WOT, but I am in the ballpark with 0 Knock.

I think this is as good as things get till cams.
Need to deal with tie rods and some rattle / rough vibration on decel (in gear) between 2400 and 2200.

That is all. No new progress otherwise. Itching for meth, but I think cams first. (Kelford 272's)

If you are just running a crappy slim fan than it definitely could be that especially because of the fact that once your moving fast enough it's not an issue anymore.

Here is the whine I was talking about on Facebook.



Camera doesn't pick it up well over the exhaust. But it's almost as loud as the exhaust in person.

To catch everybody up on why I parked the car in storage for now:

"There is a worrisome whine coming from the engine bay. Sounds like a roots supercharger. I am hoping it's not the timing belt but not taking any chances.

Also tie rods need to be done along with 4 wheel alignment. And the tires are shot.

And finally something in the driveline doesn't sound right. (Suspect tranny or diff). I'll have to drain fluids and check.

Its temporary storage. Just don't have the time to dedicate to it right now and am playing it safe. I'll post a video of it on dsm board."

Gonna be a hot september so gonna save what is left of the tires for October/November

What timing belt are you using? Did you recheck the tension? Does a pin still go into the tensioner?

Haven't had a chance to look at it. New lady friend. The woman is always priority and the talon approves (1st woman in the dsm, it blew it's dipstick in retaliation. 2nd woman to get a ride in it.. It blew it's PTU and only let me drive with 2 cylinders)... This one.. car is well behaved. Keeper!

Will find time in October. Thanks for insight on where to start looking.

I'm going to pull the alternator and power steering pump belts and see if it goes away. If not, I will look at timing belt stuff. Could be water pump? Oil Pump? It's not quite power steering pump noise, but similar. Just higher pitched

So I fixed the loud exhaust noise. Two bolts on manifold to turbo were loose and stripped. Used different thread bolts (10.9) to get it settled down for now.

Cutting out power to Sub. Fixed.

Added Manifold Blanket. Amazing heat difference in the bay.

The whomp whomp noise is still there in the front though. Lugs are tight.

So ripping on the highway about to dive into a corner, there is a loud bang bang bang along the underside of the car. Look back, couldn't tell and was committed to the corner so I didn't stop to find out what it was. It was big (size of my fist?) Drove very carefully for a few KM. No negative side effects. Oil Pressure Ok. Boosts Ok. Fuel is ok. Coolant Ok. Steering, clutch and driveline seem ok. I still need to get underneath to look. Maybe she is just shedding weight for me.

And this morning.. counting my lucky stars. This little chevy cobalt was on my ass as I am getting on to an on ramp. Get it in third, slowly start to accelerate (this car still on my ass).. I mash it. Hit 7K just after the apex and went to shift into 4th. 9000rpm! As if it let me go into 2nd?!!! Ugh. Luckily I was back on the clutch fast enough. No damage. But scary as hell. First time ever missing that shift. >.<

More updates.

Two exhaust manifold bolts came loose again. Destroyed the gasket. Shredded it.So much so that the ring was sitting in the turbo hotside (fished it out) Also burnt new turbo blanket on the underside.

I got new bolts and nuts and grinded the nuts to sit nearly flush under the hot side flange. Had spare gasket luckily.

Hit 270,000 KM last night pulling into driveway. Things were good till this morning. Timing belt making more noise now. Found a couple strands of fiber under the timing cover and the belt has some shiny spots on it. Time to replace. Stay tuned for the timing belt change photos.

I didn't want to do belt until I got cams, lifters, cam gears, bigger injectors (E85?), but that will run too much and blow this years budget.

But I really want cams. I am maxed for power on what I have.
28 PSI ok. 29PSI knock.
Max timing 12 degrees near redline under WOT. > 12 = knock

What your injector duty cycle?

Currently 79-82% @ 27 PSI.

Running 11.6 AFR (10.9 to 11.1 didn't change knock at all when I tried to go higher with boost or timing). That still stems from the WB being so far back I really want to move it up, but not until I get new Turbo and O2 housing.

Are you using the oem turbo bolts and washers? The washers are the key to staying tight.

The hot side housing is stripped. I needed longer bolts so I can put a nut on and am using 10.9 bolts from Ottawa Fastener and Supply. I just tried the bolts themselves last time as it bit into the messed up threads. Didn't hold. Now using nuts that are ground to hug the curve on the hot side housing.

Using the Mitsu washers on all of them. This setup is holding fine for now. Still undecided on Holset vs FP Red vs Rebuild PT6162 (Flows roughly 64lbs. I'm only hitting 43).

Hard to beat the price on an old school red currently, I'm flowing a little over 60lbs/min at 35 psi, rated up to 65.

You using FP Manifold? Or Stock?
You running 35psi on 94? Or meth injection also?

an old Slowboy manifold with the WG port on it.

35 with 94 + meth.

Don't rebuild a pt6152. The thrust washers are a poor design. precision should have never made large journal bearing turbos.

Jay pushes more from that red then most will attemp, and there are few reds making that kinda flow. 35psi is a lot for stock internals.

A hx35 On the other hand will make about 60lbs/min around 30psi. And last longer then your car. A hx40 Will touch 70lbs/m Both turbos are still being found for under 500 bucks. But do require some extra installation expenses.

My PT is still solid. No shaft play. Been on there for over 35000 KM? Fed from Oil Housing with Earls Filter. Hit 0 PSI at 2500rpm and 25 PSI by 4900rpm

I think I will go with the FP Red and FP Manifold. I don't feel like getting crazy with fitment issues. I do love the idea of Holset (cheap and people getting great results).

I have reduced my end goal to be near 600 WHP.
I'm already bored with 360-400.

Side note: My south bend clutch is doing well, but it has become grabby. Very little clutch travel from not engaged to fully engaged. Hard to slip it. Makes launching a big turbo a little harder. Have only attempted 5 launches since I got it. Bogged every single one. >.< (not using launch control)

So little update 2 months later. I went to store the car and the timing belt noise was horrendous. Quickly put it back in the garage. I just got around to doing it now.

So far it has gone well. Cursing at the amount of room they gave us to work, but overall, not bad. Broke the timing belt cover 1G single cover in a 2G) but it will repair easily.

Looks like the tensioner was failing. Belt had a lot of slack and it was rubbing right below the oil sprocket. I have a full replacement kit going in.

I did buy Fidenza adjustable cam gears and I was hoping the cam gear lock (plastic wedge you stick in between would be enough to hold while I crack 1 nut loose and replace, but no such luck. I don't want to push it. I didn't want to remove the valve cover till I did lifters and cams. If anyone has a tip on how to remove Cam Gears without removing cover, let me know! Photos to come.

Those cam gear bolts are torqued quite high. Youll want a wrench on the cam.
I find it only takes about 2 minutes to remove the VC....

I've got them off with the plastic wedge and an impact but that's after they'd been removed once. If they're still tight from the factory, I doubt it. I broke a crescent wrench trying to hold a cam back before while removing them, was scared as sh!t it was going to snap the cam but luckily they were just stock anyway.

Why don't you just wait and do the sprockets and cams and lifters at the same time.

Its 10 little bolts and 4 plug wires. Man up it takes 5 mins to do it right.

Lol Stephen. It's because I never got the gasket kit for the valve cover and it leaks a little as it is. Didn't want to disturb anything.

I was going to wait, but I managed to get the bolts off

The back one scared me having to use two box wrenches to get leverage.

Everything is almost back together. I am getting conflicting In/Pound tension setting for the tension pulley on the belt.

Some say 24. Jafro says 26.4 Service Tech manual says 31. Seeing my Torque wrench only goes as low as 30 inch pounds. I did 30. I have to still put the hydraulic tensioner on, test and reassemble everything.

I've never once used a torque wrench on the pulley, just good ol loctite and a feel for when it's decently tight.

I'm with Jay on that one.

I found a neat trick for proper tension. Pulling on the happy face pulley tool, soon as the pin in the auto tensioner gets a little loose, back off ever so slightly and tighten tensioner pulley bolt to 27 ft/lbs. The pin should be snug to pull out.

The auto tensioner with pin in is at 0.15 inch. Which is in the area they wanted 0.15 to 0.18 for operation.

So.. a wrap up. I thought I would be done by Thursday night. 3 days later.... It's done. But the whirring still is apparent.

Painted bolt heads to make things prettier (yay OCD)


Added new Cam Gears


Lined up!



Painted other parts


I start the car... Sounds about right. (Next year new lifters!) This is without accessory belts on.



The next video doesn't do it justice, but there is a loud whine once I hook up accessories. Note: I tried alternator only.. little bit extra whine but nothing major. But power steering pump also, adds a lot. Watch above then immediately watch this one.


So that is still an issue.

Also, during the warm up, I noticed.. battery voltage 12.0 - 12.1 FK!

Dead Alternator? I hadn't logged in over a month nor before I started tearing it apart.

Only other thing I can think is I painted the adjustment arm to the alternator and that was a source of ground to the block. All connectors look fine.

If you are worried about the alt ground. Simply do a voltage drop test on it.

My adjustment arm is powder coated and hasn't caused any issue. It should be getting plenty of ground through the pivot bolt.

Oem alt?

Sandras auto would hover between 11.6 and 12.0 volts.. But other then pulsing headlights during power draws... It ran fine.

Untill I swapped in the manual ecu with link. It would stall when she came to a stop. All I did was swap in a used Saturn alt and it runs better then ever.

Voltage Drop Test

+ = 0.08
- = 0.06



Not sure. previous owner went through 3 of them in a year. I ran for two years with no issues (made heat shielding for it)

I am looking at the Saturn Alternator. I still have my AC compressor though and not interested in doing that this season (relocation). Did you put it in stock location? Did you have to grind some housing away? Anything else other than that? Thanks!

Gonna order a Reman Pump and Saturn Alt if Jay says it's easy for stock location. I really would like to run the single wire install version.. but.. will do the pigtail if needed.


MotorCity Reman + 1 Wire Regulator (Self Exciting)

99$ American for the Alt, 29$ for the self exciting regulator. This way I just run the Positive wires and nothing else. (Sounds easy)

*****ATTENTION MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE OWNERS*****
If you are purchasing this alternator to fit your Mitsubishi Eclipse, you will need to add the special SE 1 wire Voltage Regulator, available below to your order.

Yes I had to grind the block and the alt casing. It wasn't difficult.. If you take your time and follow the right ups.

Both my DSMs run 1 wire off the pigtail. And the main battery wire. Runs fine for me.

Darn it RTM... out of stock! /sniff

Does it matter ACDelco Remy Bosch? (looking 96 Saturn SC2 alternators)

I need the harness from RTM though.....

I might just go to Ascot Alternators in Ottawa and get this one rebuilt. I have a shield for it anyway. Should last me a year or two.

Buy the one with the best warranty. They are all rebuilt in the South American plant so it really doesn't matter.

I bought all mine from my local pick in pull. I get the pigtail aswell.

I was just using the sc2 twin cam coupe.. But I've ran 2 sl1 alts and they work fine.

I did have a rebuilt oem given to me new.. It lasted 2months

Alternator:

I just want to get the car to storage. At this point a rebuild will do me fine until next year when I can look at it.

Power Steering Pump
I have been reading that aftermarket power steering pumps have been known to not fit (fittings). I don't see the little pin on top that the wire goes to in the photos either.

Auto Parts Express wanted $273 for it (and the only one is in BC).. 60$ core charge... not sold. Posted in the Wanted to Buy

Have at it:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-rebuild-and-modify-a-power-steering-pump.345914/

Should be noted that the link above is for a 1g power steering pump. The 2g is slightly different. I am actually rebuilding mine right now and was using that as a basis, but supplemented it with the FSM.

I didn't have time to learn. Just bought PS Pump and Alternator from Mr. Magnoli. Drop in. Put into storage and now I have a spare pump to crack open and modify at my leisure...

Thanks all for the info. I was just afraid it was a bad bearing / gear in the pump. I just see seal kits. Won't know till I open it.

The pump is quite simple to work on, most likely just one of the bearings shot.

So the parts I got from Mark are in the car. I started it up and let it warm up... No noise at all! Sweeet! PS pump is quiet again!

Go for a little test drive. Voltage spikes of 18v above idle. Lights go super bright, ABS light comes on, Belt squeels (during the spike)... I limped home praying the ECU would hold out. Car was not happy. I knew the alternator was untested and I only paid 20$ for it so was worth a shot.

So now... snow is flying on Monday. Car won't get to storage till I get that alternator changes. I was tempted to drive to RTM and pick up an alternator to get it on this weekend. Bah!

Maybe some nice warm days in the following week? Hope?

How far so you have to go..

We had 1 car just swap out batteries over and over toget to shoot out in Ohio... 8 plus hours... I believe it went thru 3 batteries.

Also.. My local wreckers charges 15 bucks for a Saturn battery.. But you have to remove it... And it's a pain cause it's on the back of the block.

Have bigger problems now.Something is blown after the spikes.

I put the new (95 DSM) alternator in. She started up but took some coaxing. Idled like crap. It finally stalled out about 2 mins into warm up. During that though.. good news is.. the alternator I got today is putting out a solid 14.2 volts (looks like an original DSM alt)

Anyway.. I can't keep it running without giving it gas (and she stumbles while doing it). Before I rip the ECU out to send to ECMTuning for a checkup, is there anything else I should check?

I tried replacing the PTU with a spare I had. No change. She doesn't want to stay running. Any tips on things to check would be greatly appreciated.

Check what the coolant temp says in ecmlink, that will tell you if the sensor ground is blown. If it reads something normal, it's not the problem, if it says something stupidly cold, there's the issue.

While shut off ok? With key to on, I checked. 63F. O2 is cycling.
Nothing else seems off.

Blown ISC maybe?

She's fighting me! I figure the ISC is ok. It would not cause stumbling at any rpm.

I did the wire tuck under the fuel rail which made it so I couldn't undo the Coil Plug. Removed Fuel rail and undid tuck.

Checked Primary coil.

Standard: 0.5 - 0.99 ohm.
Value 1.3 ohms
Was like this last year though.. so not overly worried.

Secondary Coil. 0 Ohms. I can't get a reading on either side. Will order another stock coil.

I put everything back for now and had fuel leaking out one injector and then again after re-assembling, lower seal wasn't holding pressure. Now good. Just waiting for battery to recover (only have slow charger)

Sadly, I didn't mark the wires to coil, so I went to put back together and can't remember the order. because of 1G in a 2G... Use Non 95 CAS checked in ECMLINK

Coil
-------
O-O O-O
-------
3 2 1 4

SO I have the car running back to it's crappy idling self (at least it starts and barely runs if I hold the gas.

I checked the ECU. It's clean and shiny. No signs of burnt anything.

I tried a spare PTU I had, car runs the same.

I don't suspect it's injectors. All plugs are wet when I pull them. (when I had the Plug Wires in wrong)

I have ordered a Secondary Coil Pack. (Be in next Monday)
I have also found a CAS locally.

Next steps for me are:

- Post a log of startup and assisted idle for 30 seconds.

- Pull one plug wire at a time put in a spare spark plug, ground to valve cover and see if it sparks. Do it for each cylinder.

- Pull off the CAS and check it. (It's leaking a little oil anyway, so I can do seal replacement same time. Afraid it's hard wired in though. Will see.

- Check Base Timing (Which I have been putting off since I bought the car)

Once I get the car running... no more used parts for Bixley. She only gets brand new. Lesson learned.

My Question for you guys is:

Can I pull the Injector plugs off and turn it over? (prevent flooding the cylinders)

What's your boost gauge reading during this whole thing?
Have you tried playing with the CAS a little, I know there are a few guys on here that adjust there CAS just by listening to the car idle.

(sorry if I missed anything as I didn't read everything)

Hey Bryan. Coles notes:

Got a used alternator. It spiked (18V) occasionally to very frequently soon as I was on my street. Car was NOT happy. Stumbling when she got in the garage. (She was running like a top just before spikes). Put in another used ALT. this one is good (so far).. but car is still very unhappy.



I will take notes of Boost Gauge. Pretty sure link was reporting normal Vac.

All your fuses are good? 18v spikes my have blown a fuse.

Also I would double check your valve timing seeing as the last thing you did was a Tbelt and cam gears. Then of course check your base ignition timing.

Thank you sir!! Yeah checking mechanical timing is a quick easy thing to check!

You're on V3/SD right? Have you verified your tune/settings didn't get wiped with the weird voltage issues? V3 is supposed to keep the tune during power loss but I have seen several times where it reset to stock.

Something is going on for sure, can you post your idle log? or email it to miles556@hotmail.com

TALON IS FIXED!!! THANK YOU ALL!!!

I went to take a video of the engine at idle.. and it was squeaking and clicking like a mofo. I go and look .....

Timing was the issue! But not overall timing. Adjustable cam gear on the intake side. The bolts loosened and it went all the way forward.

I hope like hell that isn't enough to cause valve damage, but I re-centered the markings.. Idles like a champ!!!!!

I will make sure to put locktite on those next season. Now.. pray for a break in the weather to get her into storage.

Thank you again to ALL!

Told ya.. Should have held off on the cam gears..

I also have Fidanza cam gears and they came loose on me as well. I replaced the (cheap) fasteners with longer bolts and self-locking nuts. Unfortunately the Fidanza design requires thin nuts, or else they will hit the timing cover. So I cut round windows in the timing cover to allow for the fasteners.

Did you try loctite? Or that was WITH loctite?