Winter Build 2017

So what is everyone working on this Winter 2017?
Please include your goals/list of projects you plan to complete.

Here is my list:
- Engine transmission and transfer case rebuild
- Install OIL Cooler with EVO 3 OFH (done)
- EVO 3 intake manifold (done)
- New fuel filter
- Shrouding for FMIC
- Reseal oilpan to stop small oil leak. (done)
- Install oil pressure gauge
- New clutch: SouthBend Endurance Stage 3 Kevlar disk or ACT 2600.
- Aluminum and adjustable upper control arms (front)
- Replace front subframe (done)
- Replace power steering rack and replace PS lines. (done)
- Install hella horns
- Install front OEM fogs, make them fit with FMIC
- Figure out why front rotors squeaking (changing pads didnt solve the issue)

Side projects:
- rebuild rotary engine for rx8.

-weld vband on to other side of cat and end of downpipe in car
-do the same for test pipe
-find tps plug and wire in
-change drive shaft (tcase has been drained already so might as well throw in my fresh ujoint one as the ones in there are cracked)
-fill all fluid
-prime engine
-do snow drifting (unfortunately I doubt it will be ready in time for that but we shall see)

Side project:
-build built in wardrobe in the bedroom.
-demo the bathroom and closet
-create large master bathroom

Win Lottomax. And do donuts.

I have a lot of things on my mind, not 100% sure what will pan out yet.

- Remove welded center diff, install 4 spider - this is 100% happening.
- Finish active cooling for transmission, just need to decide on a pump and cooler.
- Convert FP Red to twin scroll and build tubular manifold
- Remove Thermal R&D catback, replace with aluminum tubing and "oem" muffler
- Pick up a set of slicks
- Build a tubular rear subframe
- Design/build a new/better catch can.

Same plan as Stephen, except eat donuts

Bryan if you want I'll pick you up we can use mine

Vacation in Cuba at least once.

Been sitting on the fence for a while about selling my 1G and moving on. It has sat for a long time. Winter brings on the thinking.....I've had the car for over 3 years and I've put maybe 4k on it.

Lol Brian. You are 2500km past me in the last 4 years. But dont sell it!

2g....
New control arms and bushings
Solid mount the shifter
Make steel seat brackets
Rebiuld rear diff
Upgrade turbo
Stress out my brain deciding weather to paint it.
Install rm sway bars if current buyer suddenly disapears..muhahaha

1g....
Upgrade turbo/manofold
Biuld link activated blue wire mod for transmission
Add meth and speed density

Mr Drew, would love to see your jig that you use for building your tubular subframe, I assume most of this stuff is for weight loss. Also what are your thoughts on the welded diff, mine has one and a few people said toss it, other say keep it. Oh and where you getting yours?

Gui!! Yes Please!!! today is my last day till Jan so you just let me know when is good!

Brian, don't sell!! That thing is beautiful!!

My Winter project is on it's way! Car at Reza's with new rebuilt engine on the Lancer, going turbo also so that's plenty of spending for me!

Cheers

My 2017 new years resolution is to loose weight...on my car lol.

Yes the subframe should shave a good 25lbs or more off the car. I've studied the various subframes out there and it shouldn't be too complicated and I have a spare stock subframe to make a jig from as well so it's not like I have to pull the car apart to take this on.

The exhaust should save another 10lbs or so. Anyone want a Thermal R&D?

I initially got the welded center diff on my Jack's build over the 4-spider as I was tapped out on funds with the build. The intention was always to replace it at a later date.

Welded center diffs are great in two aspects; 1) grip off the line, 2) strength.

On the other hard, despite what anyone says, turning sucks, always. It's easier on the transmission but plays havoc on everything else, my rear axle supply is dwindling and I'm down one rear diff. Of the axles I've broke, there is noticeable wear in the CV cups from the constant binding that happens because of it.

I'm buying the hardened cross shaft from Tim Zimmer(TMZ) and a local friend of mine has a cnc mill to do the machine work on the housing.

-Get my crank walked 6bolt 2.4L fixed and back into the car.
-Run 40psi
-Win 11.50 Bracket at Shootout

Stare at my car intently while hoping the dsm fairies get it done in time.

^

Just finishing up Operation Rot-Begone; should be bringing it home from my friend's house today, weather depending.

This winter it'll see a timing belt job, fixing a long list of minor annoyances, and a once-over to find anything else that needs attention

It was my daily most of the summer so I didn't get the chance to break anything major

Lets make 2017 the year of running dsms!!!

New set of shoes fresh off:
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/SNrxC8lBnIQ/maxresdefault.jpg

Hoping some of the speed comes with them.

Also thinking of trying a Dyna Arc2. Should allow me to run a larger gap for better street manners and still not misfire under high boost.

Im hoping this will be the final winter of my build. What I have left:

Replace my rotting hood.
Fix my tps problem.
Take my exhaust manifold off and get ceramic coated.
Finish wiring my audio/video stuff.
Put my interior back together.
Tune ( or possibly out source this ).

And if time and money allows I would like to get a paint job and I would love some new seats.

Winter plans are:

- paint the engine bay back to factory white
-assemble and install the now in a million piece motor
-rebuild the small 16g
-rebuild the power steering rack and pump
-new rear e brake shoes and hardware
-new exhaust manifold

Looking forward to an enjoyable 2017 season with all the limping ponies back on the road (myself included)

Waiting for recreational marijuana legalization in Canada

Remember how we did few years ago on CT parking lot? i was in rx8


I think in most cases people lives were ruined by Winning the Lottery. I personally never even tried.


Magnus Motorsports i believe did that. I remember seeing tubular rear subframe on shootout pics from 2015sh. Subscribed!

Enjoy it Ziggy, i been there once and really like the weather...and all inclusive free alcoholic drinks


I heard they have awesome deals on timbits at Tim Hortons




Many that did ...end up regretting it and looking for their old DSM again. We build/perfect them during winter so we can enjoy them during summer. Very good balance in my view Keep it and fix it.



^Whos rebuilding it for you? stock rebuild, evo, or DSM LSD?


Will it be baby boost? stock aluminum block without sleeves ?


I thought 6bolts never walked


It does not work that way January 2nd you start! I wanna see this again



I am sure you can do timing belt with your eyes closed


We should do group paint job deal with Deep Man!


^ Same here. Keep up the progress

They do, they have them listed for sale. I just want to make all the things lol

Haha yep!!

And agreed on the Terry thing, it's been too long since I seen you and that car!

Terry's car is Red now....

And Alex....if winning the lottomax ruins my life so be it I will take that chance 😆

Hey Alex,
Yes it'll be baby boost 10-12 psi but at this point I'll be happy with that! Been 9 years without it! lol...
Once my life is in order and I'm able to have a "toy car", then I'll compete with the big boys.

BTW, you're DSM really looks good.

Cheers

Ya... There's been some minor changes

"minor"

My car is getting some "minor" changes as well

Sweet, everyone seems to have some good plans for the winter! I really hope to see a few more members back in their rides for spring '17, it feels like years since I've seen some of you last!!

I wish I could say I'm joining the AWD SPY army, but finding a suitable donor has been a bitch.

For this winter tho, I plan on just getting everything to work properly.
I've got:
Master clutch cylinder to rebuild or replace.
Putting new calipers on the front
Both window regulators
Passenger roof motor
My front seats have rips in them, so I think I wanna get them reupholstered
Set up and install speed density
Need 2 hankook tires
Install hid
3G steering wheel
Also need to wrap some interior pieces. (Precious owner had custom painted interior)

If all that gets done, I'll be a happy man!

Alex.

Gonna try to rebiuld my self. Its a dsm lsd that was whining a bit. I have Brightsides shim kit. Was hoping to get together with the quinte group and some beers and give it a try.

Its just a spare rear diff. So aif I mess it up. I wont be with out.

Did the awd donor car from my buddy Alex not pan out?

Shimming the rear diff is best done by someone who has been doing it for some time. Special tools and a "feel" for it is a must to complete it properly.

I had my evo clutch lsd installed by a professional for much less then I originally thought.

I know it can be done with the tools I have access to. And I know people who have done it. If I dont try it.. I wouldnt feel satisfied.

Sounds like jay has a case of the "Jason Drews"

Pay others to finish welding together a perfect chassis and get the last of my suspension components together

Alex, details on aluminum upper control arms???

Pics or it isnt happening




Walnut blasted, primed. Replaced strut towers and rad support with north carolina rust free panels.
Next up it goes on the rotissery. Firewall subframe mount repair, rear toe arm mount repair, rocker repair and misc underside repairs.

Wow, Impressive! That's a lot of work.

Yes we are! I am planning to attend shootout 2017 next year.
Hopping to meet and drink with all of you





Thank you! She ain't pretty now. Waiting for Reza's (2nd) trans




Got them off Mike Degli Angeli hands. I believe they were used by legendary Rob C DSM.

Haha!! I remember when I was chasing down those front control arms. Rob just beat me to the punch.
That's exactly where they're from. Glad to see everyone is having a good time.
Winter 2018 - Brembo install on the Spyder. I'll be making a new trunk floor for it this summer. The OEM one can't take any weight. Aside from that, I'm not sure what else need to be done... Oh! A few paint touch ups, the front bumper as well as a hood replacement.
I suppose I could continue to fight against those small leaks in the roof rails.

Finish the engine bay / install motor on the spyder.
New top
New Tires
Reupholster seats
and more im sure...

Currently sits looking like this:

And you know...finally get the x-brace behind the rear seats re-welded

Edit: fucked up this post. Lol

Well if you really want them just send me an offer via PM


Brembos are really nice, can't wait till i see pic your of car with them installed. Regarding weight, in oem setup the spare tire keeps the floor leveled and flat. Without it it will just sag down of course. I just got bunch of light foam panels in mine. Does the job for now.
Regarding paint, i think all DSMs with factory paint needs that by now. Imagine if we would could do a group deal with Deep Man's shop


Congrats, looks really good. Who did seats reupholstery for you? Also, how much does it cost?


^ Fix it...let's see what you got

You pretty much nailed it Alex.

Fix it.

My only goal this season is to get back on the road.

Finish my FMIC and I piping.

SMIM.

A bit of wiring to go.

Should be good this season!

Just been busy with my union welding program.. That's right, I'm back renewing my CWB and guess what??

I'm the new instructor!

Wow cool dude! My uncle and I are both looking at getting a tig welder, so we were talking about that on the weekend.

little late to this one but.... i started working with jeff yost this year and hes been whoring parts out and ive been buying stuff off of him almost every pay lol

2g

FP Green with a polished compressor cover. needs a rebuild but i'll get that done soon enough...
all new 3" turbo back exhaust
custom o2 housing for tial wastegate
F.I.C. 1050cc injectors
walbro 255 pump
aeromotive FPR
misc gauges wideband new boost gauge and oil pressure
new wheels to replace my enkeis
finally install my vrsf fmic tial bov 3'gm maf and translator


1g

clean up the outside of it. good compound and buff to bring back the white
stereo
fix idle surge problem
put my enkies on this car
get rid of the eibach prolines and replace with coils (destroying my back 1 bump at a time lol)
possibly cold air and exhaust not much you can do on the N/A's

Devon.. The only thing you can do with NA... Is Nitrous!

3'gm maf and translator + F.I.C. 1050cc injectors = not much fun tuning.
Your spending a bunch of money why are you not going link? or some other tuning option

Yeah skip the MAF-T. We're not in 2006 anymore. You'll be perfectly fine and have the thing run much better on the stock MAF, it will support an FP Green. Do link regardless, and you can always go to SD if you want.

Well, looks like I'm cutting into my frame rail to get at the rear subframe bolt that busted through its cage and is now spinning causing me grief. The other 3 came off fine.

Dropping my rear subframe - sandblasting and powedercoating everything + rebuilding/replacing all the rear suspension bits (shocks/struts excluded) as well as doing the rear (active) toe delete.

Emptying and dropping my gas tank and repairing the sending unit studs and cleaning up any surface rust.

Fixing any broken bolts in the rear (not many yet, but there will be as I work my way through the back plastics as it's mostly untouched since new).

Replacing ebrake cables.

Nice work Sal, did you get the slugs or are you doing the toe delete another way?

How are you fixing the stud, welding?

Let me know how the ebrake goes, that sh!t was a bitch (i never got it out)

Can you not use am oxy torch and blow it out?

Haven't decided what I'm doing for the toe delete yet. Don't really want to pay the Jay Racing price (which is ridiculously expensive) but I don't have access to a machine shop anymore to turn my own. May go the old school washer solution but not sure yet.

As for the gas tank studs, I will likely use the 'RTM Repair kit' but may fab up something else.

Ebrake...hoping it's not too bad, especially with the whole rear end, driveshaft, and exhaust out of the way. The cables aren't seized or anything and the calipers work fine, but the 'nub' on the end of the right ebrake cable broke off so there's nothing holding the cable into the caliper anymore so I'm just gonna replace it all.

As for the rear subframe bolt/stud, I will cut open the frame rail and likely weld a square 'washer' on the new bolt/stud so that it cannot spin in the frame rail. No oxy-acetylene torch is blasting anything away near/on my frame rail if I can avoid it - plus I don't have one in Michigan anyhow (where the car is on jack stands right now).

Yeah I hear that, if you can get the measurements I am sure we can make it happen.

Let me know how that repair goes!

I couldn't get my cable out of the car itself, there is recess in the body that holds the cable in place.

I will do what I have to to get the ebrake cables out/in. Most of the interior is out of the way already (all the seats/seat backs) and more will be coming out soon so they're coming out one way or another.

Yeah with out the arm rest there you might be able to easily punch it out.

im only running the 3" maf and translator because i got it so cheap and i dont want to spend a shitload on link+speed density is it really that much of a pain, i do have the black box ecu with mine being a 99. and i was told thats tune-able ?

Devon.. I have tried 3 times to get a maft to work right... 2 of them are sitting in my basement collecting dust. Just get link... Or find someone to show you how to tune the black box.

Link gets my vote. With a green and 1050's you really want better control then a 3" and translator.

Fixed Sandras brokem stud

Nice work!

You really aren't supposed to use the raft for anything bigger than 650s
It's not a total loss though, you can use the maf directly with link.

Not even. You can sell the MAF-T for like $100 if anybody even buys them anymore and put the $100 towards other mods. Or use that $100 towards SD, which new will cost you about that and is far superior.

If you don't want SD, stick with the stock 2G MAF. You will not overrun it with your average 50 trim setup. If not, go with the Evo 8/9 MAF which is basically a direct replacement on the 2G. You'll suck the honeycombs out of it before "overrunning" it, and you certainly will not do either on an FP Green.

Regardless, ditch the MAF-T for the sake of your DSM.

No one really buys them anymore, it took a long ass time to sell mine. SD really isn't too hard to tune just time consuming and as Lucian said it's not that expensive.

Link is where you should be spending your money, it's a worth while investment.

DSMers, i finally finished my winter build. Yesterday i took her for a test drive (3rd time) and she's finally passed it this time. No leaks and no squeaks.

Here is what actually was completed over last 4-5 months:

- Engine transmission and transfer case rebuild (Thank you Reza) (done)
- Install OIL Cooler with EVO 3 OFH (done)
- Install aftermarket PS cooler (done)
- EVO 3 intake manifold and EGR delete (done)
- New OEM fuel filter (done)
- Shrouding for FMIC (done)
- Reseal oilpan to stop small oil leak. (done)
- New clutch: SouthBend Endurance Stage 3 Kevlar disk (done) (Act 2100 with 6 puck sprung bye bye)
- APC front upper control arms (done) Front Camber is zero degrees now (Thanks Mike and Rob C)
- Replace front subframe with new OEM (done)
- Replace power steering rack and replace PS lines. (done)
- brand new OEM PS pump (done)
- Install hella horns (done)







Looking forward to DSM/EVO SHOOTOUT this summer

Looking great! So where did you install the horns? I was looking at this the other day, but still deciding on a clean location to put them.

The hella horn kit came with two horns. I installed one on each side (passanger/driver). Drive side was the easiest but for passanger side i had share few brackets with my oil cooler installation (my oil cooler is on passenger side).

Much easier to see that explain. Here are few pics:
Driver
Passanger:





Each horn is pointed towards the bumper opening so sound is not trapped inside.
Let me know how are you end-up doing it.

Gorgeous car and great work Alex.

I have a 2Ga Talon front bumper but I'd love to see some detail in how you shrouded your FMIC.

Ben

Always beautiful to see the upgrades on your car, tastefully done as always

Ben,
Thanks for your comments.
Shrouding is basically modifed version of OEM 2Gb Eclipse shroud(all models). I trimmed it just enough to cover FMIC and i kept sides a little longer to fill in gaps on sides of FMIC. I finished the job with aluminum tape to ensure air can't escape except via condenser and radiator. I still use OEM plastic reinforcement bar and it clears over shrouding just fine. See the pics:

Thanks Gui, i always get pumped with joy after reading comments like yours

Did you only shroud the top?

On mine.. The rad sapport acts as the lower shroud.

Yes sir, didn't need to do the bottom because 8AN oil cooler hose runs below FMIC. Other small areas were filled with soft pipe heating foam.

Nice! Actually almost identical to what I did minus the foil tape. Good idea. I'll definitely be adding that to seal it off. I did the same on the sides, left it a little long and slit the corners to allow it to open up around the edges of the FMIC. Not a very tight seal though so I'll be adding the foil to give the air only one way to go, across the rad.

Nice work Alex, looks beautiful!!

You have been far more productive then I have, here is my list now.
-weld vband on to other side of cat and end of downpipe in car
-do the same for test pipe
-find tps plug and wire in (found 2, first guy bailed on me, waiting for the 2nd guy to send)
-change drive shaft (tcase has been drained already so might as well throw in my fresh ujoint one as the ones in there are cracked)
-fill all fluid
-prime engine
-do snow drifting (unfortunately I doubt it will be ready in time for that but we shall see)

I should probably start on this sometime soon.

Sandras 1g is running smooth! And a ton of fun in the snow!

Got this sweet thing for $50! She'll be going in once the nicer weather gets here!

I like it, i heard you guys had good weather last weekend.

I got my engine & transmission back in the hole last night with the help of Mr. Gallo and a few other friends

stock 4b11T rebuild ?

49k stock longblock.

Yes it sure was nice weather! She finally got a wash! lol...

I've decided to put a big turbo on my car again. Not sure why lol but I'm pretty excited. Haven't driven it in a few years now. It's nice to finally have a hoist....




I've been pretty busy with a few other projects.......

Like this Ls swapped 1972 C10



As well as this 2000 Trans am. I am hell bent on doing wheelies in the next couple years so this beast will be powered by a turbocharged 5.3....

Fuuuun!!

Love the C10 man. There's something about that generation I've always liked, and that one's really cool.

I think most people judge how fast the car is based on how big the turbo is. No one believe's my DSM is fast with tiny FP 68HTA under the hood.

DSM looks good btw.

But I run an HX40 at 12 psi bro, sh!t's fast!

GT35R @ 6psi on my D16 Honda.

Come at me....

What turbo you gonna run Chris? Car looks good!

Got two things off my list so far;

• L19 Head Studs
• Kiggly HLA
  

Gotta start working on it soon.

Picked these up and already cleaned one now just need to clean the other one! Man they are sweet!

You were making all this power without L19s? Were you on stock OEM bolts?



sweet deal. Is there a lot of work to make them fit into 2g?

Regular ARPs. Finally popped a $28 felpro gasket last fall at 37 psi

They are going into my Lancer GTS Turbo! haha...

I just realized something ! I ve had doubters through this long journey resto modding my car and for good reason! Rob C gave up? Mike deli gave up on Rob Cs car? Now Anthony hiscock is moving on and parting out. Laliberte made it, then gave up. Am I the last surviving grand 2g undertaking from the ground up on club dsm Canada?! Except maybe greg walkim with the rob/Mike 2g? And Ruben with his 2nd or 3rd attempt?

Still with my chassis over 10 years later. Project 5+ years deep. Keep rooting for me 😊 this year is our year!

a sort of cheers to 2017






shell is nearing rust free status. Should be done in spring.

I'm at 9 years on my heap

I finally put water in the radiator in my hooptie. Still more to go, but it's getting there. Waiting for a new oil cooler/intercooler so I can start it.

Well this is what i discovered yesterday upon beginning to prep the bay for por15 and a body color refresh

http://i.imgur.com/Feud79z.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/YQwCdeF.jpg

Plans are to clean up the rot as much as possible and weld in new sheet metal after tacking the stud to match the passenger side stud shown in the other picture

Wish i had the time and funds available to go thru what mike lane is and i am still very close to just doing a complete strip and restore

5 years in!

Now i question the integrity of the body on my dsm...a whiles back i had attempted to jack up the car from the frame rails and i could hear crumpling...same with the pinch welds which im sure isnt of much cause for concern but i am at the point of questioning whether my body is in a repair worthy state? Feel free to mention tests and or pictures i can post to help determine this

^ Don't use frame rails, you will bend them upwards. They are not designed to hold all the weight especially with the engine and trans still in the bay.
Integrity is fine, weld the rotted stud in place and enjoy your ride this summer.

Manny I bought a whole lower firewall from North Carolina and had it shipped to detroit. My body guy sand blasted it and removed and replaced that whole lower panel from the car but it's an easy fix if you don't want to take it that far. Had it all epoxy primed and stitch welded while it was opened up too. I ll show those pics later

I'm borderline insane this job has gotten expensive. I stripped it. Paid for walnut blasting primer and metal fab. I truely love this thing you guys don't need to know what I paid so far. Leaving it to my friends the pros and that's 60 an hr shop rate. I'm going to have a few improvements and alterations made after I do a minimal mockup reassembly and then I ll final assemble after paint.

Nice Mike i considered giving miller a shout because i remember you getting a lot of body panels from them.

It is a serious option i am considering IF the motor ever gets dropped again

just shy of 20k for me lol and still not running

No complaints about their generosity with panel cutting ! Sent more than I needed every time. Me and the metal guys have been greatful

Do we include the car or just the build and parts 😆

car, build and parts

I think I was there before I tore it apart . Might do that again or more by the time it's back together

Wasn't there a post on here YEARS ago where someone was able to purchase or have built, new 2g bodys?

Haha what would it matter Mike they have issues that leave room for improvement anyways ☺

Adding some new technology to my 2g with a Syvecs ECU. Ran into problems with my aem v1 so was time for an upgrade.

Why Syvecs/what are you doing for a harness/connectors etc.? As far as I can see they don't make a plug-n'-play setup for our cars or even anything Mitsubishi.

I went with a syvecs under Magnus recommendation. I didn't want to stick with an old ecu platform and got this one at a good price in comparison to a haltech or newer aem. There is a syvecs for the evos. They will have to alter it slightly to run on my 7 bolt setup.

Just spent way too much money over breakfast on the last brand new and OE evo 3 5th set, and some of the last of the first gear set with intermediate shaft. Both discontinued gearsets have been shot peened already. From TMZ/Tim zimmer in wisconsin

Just sharing excitement over some stronger taller trannies on a sunday

Still aquiring rare and important bits !! Going to see the chassis again in a few hours too

I just ordered my 4 spider cross shaft from Tim, I'll try to document my conversion.

Thanks Jason!! Look forward to reading it!

Finally i'm making some progress on this.
Removed 13B REW Rotary 1.3 engine from RX8. Short summary, i bought this RX8 with blown motor for very reasonable price. It's been in my garage for almost 10 months now. Hopping to get good daily driver out of it.

Here are latest pics:



^ I had to remove front bumper and reinforcement bar to gain enough clearance to pull the engine. These motors are mounted behind front wheels so my one ton engine hoist couldn't reach it far enough.












Special mount bracket is required to bolt this motor to standard engine stand.

I fixed that for you.

Cool, good work Alex.

I agree with Lucian though!

NEVER Rotary FTW haha
i want to drive something unique ...no more pistons
how come no one suggesting turboing this little bugger

Electric!

turbo FTW

Apparently 4340 chromoly tool steel costs just about the same as gold but it will make for hell of a 4 spider center.

Nice looking piece, but the material choice is probably overkill for the application. Big advantage of Chromoly is strength to weight ratio, but I don't think a gram or two in this piece is going to make a difference. 4140 is a lot more common, I asssume cheaper, and would probably be a good choice of material for this piece.

I don't know the reasoning for the choice of material, it's Beyond Redline Performance who actually makes it and to Tim Zimmer's knowledge, none have ever broken or galled up.

Now would making it out of 4140 significantly change the price? I'm assuming like most parts, a good part of the price is the overhead and r&d cost attached to the part, not the material itself.

You must have a whole lot of money burning a whole in your pocket if you want to take one of the most fuel inefficient vehicles around and make it even more inefficient in a place that has super expensive, crappy gas.

But hey, should be fun! Revving a car engine out to 10k on the regular is always enjoyable. The extra torque from a turbo will be wonderful.

You read my mind. Oil and gas like a 2 stroke, and you'll be pulling it out and rebuilding it every 30k miles lol

I was just responding to your comment that Chromoly must be priced like gold. I am sure there is a ton of R&D and considerable machining involved, and the piece would not be cheap regardless, but I think chromoly is most commonly used in tube form, like for chassis or roll cages. If I were making these today, I would probably try 4140 and possibly nitride the surface after machining. Are the oil passages circular grooves or a spiral groove?

^ Not that much far off from 4B11T



Well said
Gas prices these days are not as bad as they used to be so fuel efficency is not my major concern at this point. Rx8 is sitting at 16mpg city 22mpg hwy which is similar to EVO X.

The turbo kit for these cars is damn expensive.
The best kit is made by Esmeril Racing. On stock engine
it made 414 WHP



The kit cost is 5895.00 and another 1500 for Haltech ECU with preloaded map.
Considering i paid 3k for whole car, this kit is definitely pricy

I am going to repeat this one because you live in California! This is where most of the guys are selling stuff for the best prices so you will be able to get everything you need!
I have spent the last year and a bit on the diy electric car forums and for what you would pay for just that turbo kit you could have a pretty good range electric conversion with all the torque you could want!!

i believe 4140 is considered chromoly?

According to Google it is.

Pretty much ready to pull the engine and trans for this years maintenance and upgrades.

The way the paint reflects the light in that first shot looks amazing!

Come again?

Didn't you blew your 4B11T with cobb tune at 49k ?

I believe it was closer to 225K(give or take). I suspect an engine failure could occur on Cobb tune with no respect to its Km's, 50kms to 500000kms wouldn't matter much from what I've heard.
*disclaimer I have zero personal experience with the Cobb tuner*

That being said I also have no experience with rotary engines or how reliable/well they hold up to higher than factory HP.

LA smog must be getting to you man I blew the original engine with over 230k (close, Charles). The donor that took it's place in the engine bay, has 49k. The original engine even with the high mileage ran extremely well and healthy up to that second. Personally, I am extremely excited to take that cobb AP off and kick it off the nearest cliff once the car is running. I should have removed it as soon as I got the car.

My DSM smog test is due this October lol...it will be fun with all my recent mods including EVO 3 IM.
My miss understanding on the mileage of your 4B11T, it appears you are re-using 49k motor instead of rebuilding your own with 230k, is this correct?

Regarding rotary engine reliability, they say if you look after one it will last long time. Generally it's not reliable compared to piston engine.

I will attempt to rebuild it myself and see how it goes.
I have to admit, there is huge fun factor when working on these things. Can't wait to see what those rotors look like inside the housings. This motor overheated and blew the coolant seal. Lots and lots of white smoke when i tried starting it.

Do it Alex...If it's of interest then go for it... People called me crazy for boosting my Lancer... Well leaving WRX's and some Evo's in their tracks is priceless... Looking forward to finished product.

^ I still wanna go for a ride in that thing. Swing by Milton one day, I need to see it

^ Ya for sure dude.

When you realize you've taken on too much at once and haven't even began the engine swap yet.

2 things you are lacking in that pic....

Beer bottles...

And plastic containers... Yogurt ones work really well for organizing bolts.

Ha, I stopped drinking to fund for race car parts!

Good idea on the yogurt containers.

Or Jafro's favorite, ice cub trays

Cardboard was a nice touch when I picked up my car, Gus had stuck all the bolts into cardboard and then wrote what it was for.


Alex, this just came up on my recommendations, should help!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lnoF80ezReo

Yep I like this type of videos. I am starting with 2 rotors to keep things simple for now. As far as rebuilding/assembling rotary engine goes, looks like sealing rotors (all sides) will be the most difficult part, everything else seems to be doable so far.

Ready to drop in the L19's

Very nice! Torquing to 90 lbs?

ARP recommends 100ft-lbs on the L19's

You mean to say you have been beating those poor little stock head bolts all these years.... have you ever had any head gasket issues?

I was running regular ARP's.

The only issue I had was last fall when my AFPR failed and I pushed a little coolant.

Side note: Finished my Kiggly pickup mod

ARP recommends 100ft-lbs on the L19's[/quote]

Weak, crank em down to 120

Just pull off the outer metal skin eh for better oil flow ?

This is about not sucking up air on hard launches, not about flow.

just going to leave these here...in case someone interested

Got part of my aluminum exhaust fabbed up and I had to test it out as a straight pipe before putting the muffler on.

Nice Jason, Vband? I got so fed up with messing up my aluminum TB elbow I would be worried about messing this up.

Yup, v-band everywhere

How much weight are you saving?

The full exhaust before was 49.5lbs, I'm keeping the downpipe, mind you shortened and the total of the aluminum I bought was 8 lbs.

I'll have a total soon.

Coming together slowly. It runs, I was just waiting for some parts I got last night. Have to install a few more things, and get injectors and its good to go.

Nice, what are you using for tuning now?

Right now it's still on the Cobb, as it's still on stands in the shop. The most it's done is idle and a couple small free revs, mostly to burp the cooling system. It will be going to a straight Ecuflash tune with all the new goodies.

Lucian, we need to meet up! My Mini evo might give you a run for your money... haha

Cool! Sure you are pretty excited to get it back on the road!

You think so eh We do need to meet up soon though!



Yes I am! Definitely beats driving around in a Mazda (although it does make for a good daily)

DSMers i have sad news to report!
Things didn't work out well between my 2g DSM and & South Bend Kevlar disk
The disk got glazed (somehow unexpectedly) and now it slips everytime boost gauge reads over 10psi. It could be many factors involved & i agree that i may have abused kevlar disk. However, comparing SB Kevlar to how i abused my ACT 6 puck sprung disk, without a doubt 6 puck never failed when it came to AWD launch and ripping strong off the line!

I'm saving this topic for our discussion during DSMmer meet at:

Saturday December 9th 8:00 PM

Darn. . I am one of few ACT followers that can't be bothered with SB..

And I won't be there to stand up for them!

You need to use the stage 3 drag. It's a 6 puck sprung ceramic disk. Barely any chatter IMO and felt like stock. Held a few 10 second passes before it slipped on me last year. Those SB Kevlar disks slip and burn out too easily.

Thanks for the info.
I actually have ACT 2600 kit with street disk sitting on my shelf for over a year (i had both kits SB and ACT but went with SB when i installed your trans earlier this year).
I want to try street disk with heavier PP after my last two setups which are:
- ACT 2100 PP with 6 puck sprung
- SB with Kevlar disk.
Personally, i prefer firmer clutch pedal over stock. Another factor, my DSM is a street build with stock 7 bolt motor that does not see power above 420 AWHP.

The way I see it. The clutch is something expensive that wears out.

So to me it's a value thing. The 6puck 2600pp combo from act is by far the cheapest proven set up you could use. And not worry about replacing it. Defiantly hold what your throwing at it and I find if you like stiff pedal feel.. you prolly wouldn't mind the raw 6 puck chatter when leaving a busy street light!

Nah. SB stage 2 drag with the 6 puck shits all over a 6 puck ACT 2600. I've had both. The SB has outlived the ACT, in a faster, more powerful and heavier car with a lot more DD kms, a lot more launches, and just overall a lot more use. And if memory serves me right, the stage 2 drag is cheaper than the ACT equivalent.

I do like ACT - I am running their disk and flywheel in my Evo. But for a DSM I had a hell of a lot better luck with the SB.

Rtm list the 6puck unsprung with 2600 for 553

Sb stage 2 drag for 595

But seems they have hiked the price of the act.. I don't think 8 spent more than 400 for my disk and plate.

That price sounds high. He might be overdue for a price adjustment due to exchange rates. Also possible, I know ACT had quite high MAP pricing for a while. Maybe they have lowered MAP and Abbas has not adjusted yet?

Nope. I see it across the board. Extreme psI and a few others are at par with RTMS price.

That sucks. With all the hype of SB. It was prolly better that act keep their prices lower.

Altho I would imagine there are still enough die hard act guys to keep them happy.

Random slightly related fact..

Nintendo claimed they would not offer any black Friday deals cause they believe they don't need to.

Well, you know, I never offered Black Friday specials either. I used to offer fair pricing all year, and if guys said they wanted like Black Friday specials, I used to say: "sure, I could do that, I will just have to raise prices the rest of the year".

Hehe

I think this is him trying to dig himself out of the hole he put himself in. He called me the other day cause I am trying to find a good intermediate shaft for my trans and seems like he is ready to take it seriously.

I may have publicly put him on the spot about his shipping practices.

Car is pretty much stock so it is getting, Engine re ring T belt, Water Pump, rebuilding 7 bolt head to go on the 6 bolt to get a little more bottom end torque with the auto, cams, evo8 springs and retainers, evo3 intake, FP manifold evo 16G turbo, fuel pump +afpr, frontmount , shift kit and shift box. My stablemate is also red but much faster!

[img:center]engine20171208_233035 by Kill Joy, on Flickr[/img]

[img:center]Stablemates20171208_215413 by Kill Joy, on Flickr[/img]

That's a sweet stable mate!!

Nice work man, I assume you have some nice heat in there. I am freezing my ass off because I spent last year venting the garage but never got around to drywalling the ceiling and insulating it.

Bryan my garage is old, small and no heat. This is one of my dinosaur buddies garage, lots of heat and car is there for the winter. I had to move some of my tools as he is all standard but I only have to pay for propane about 300 for the winter, cobra is his 496 BBC 1 Holley 400 auto no power adders, best 9:96 @ 133.5 banned from all the local tracks. I don't think my upgrades will make it catch it but great incentive.

That Cobra

Nice 1g! Also like the fact you're concentrating on the daily fun power curve. Makes them better day-to-day light dashers

Hmm. Runs 9 seconds in the 1/4 and now it's banned from all your drag strip for not having proper safety equipment ??

How "DEMONIC" haha

Anyway.. there is a track here it can race on.. might better just mail it to me.!!


I'll pay shipping!😆

LOL Jay: he has been banned for over 5 years they let it go for a while but in the end no go. What track is that, have trailer may travel. he used to like running it. and like a demon it got the wheels up and a street car.

[img:center]RobLaunch by Kill Joy, on Flickr[/img]

Shannonville

And armdrop.

Shannonville sometimes has road course and drag racing during the same day for 30 bucks. And they will won't kick you off.

Arm drop is a unprepared airport runway.

If your lucky..they set up both events in the same weekend.

These tracks are a long drive from you though

I checked it out 1500k a little to far to talk him into but looks like a great track, our only track on the island just closed this fall so closest now is across the bridge in Miramichi, NB about 300k, so it now sucks to go racing.

If that's the case, how's your area for street racing?

Lucian not much of that around here anymore unless you want to run my CIV Bro or run my Subi when i am done vaping Man!

So went to remove pass side axle nut using breaker Bar and when i leaned on it to loosen axle nut "This Happened" breaker Bar!!!

[img:center]Shocking by Kill Joy, on Flickr[/img]

I think you've been working out a little too much recently!

Haven't seen that one before...

Me neither.... That is fucked up

me neither! thats crazy!
Probably best it happen now instead of on the road

Damn PEI salt... As Bryan said. Good thing it didnt happen on the road.

Car is not from PEI, pretty much rust free, claimed never winter driven at least by the last owner 15 years and it looks it. Glad it was not on the road when it happened also, I used to safety/inspect/repair cars and have never saw this one.

Holy shenanigans Batman!!! That is bonkers.

That broke at the undercut at the edge of the weld.

Be happy it didn't happen on the road!

Looks like it rusted from both sides and there is not much metal to begin with. Rusted axle nuts will put up huge fight. Personally i could not get my original ones off until super heated them.

Saw this the other day and thought it was cool but it's fracking expensive.

https://www.amazon.ca/Bolt-Buster-BB2-ACC-Handheld-Induction/dp/B00ATSL7VE

They work really well, just very pricey for the home gamer where it only gets used once.

Wow! Those have come way down in price.

I did some digging and they don't look like they would cost that much to build yourself, just won't be in a pretty package like the bolt buster

Build them. I'll buy one. Maybe group buy ? haha.

Haha I will look into this next year once things have settled!

Here is the latest update on slipping SB Kevlar clutch. It felt like it started to recover but slipped again going uphill in 4th. So i pulled the trigger and swapped to ACT 2600 with street disk and also my second trans that Reza built for me. Trans that was stolen by UPS but recovered after 4 months. It has EVO 1 gear set (17% taller 1st) with EVO 3 10% taller 5th.
I took advantage of recent holidays and got it done in 3 days. Here are some pics:





















No review yet on how gear ratio is, this weekend i'll take her for a ride.
However, ACT 2600 PP is defiantly very stiff compared SB and ACT2100.

*Also, i saved time by leaving front axles in wheel hubs. I saw JD did it this way and it worked for me really well too

Here are some close up pics of kevlar disk and ACT flywheel.
Looks like most surface of Kevlar is covered with metal, which may explain why this disk couldn't hold 27 PSI. There are also burned spots on the flywheel. IF you look closely, most of the metal and burned spots are around the edges of flywheel and clutch disk. What do u guys think of that?

Just came back from test drive. EVO 1 gear set in my trans so far feels good. Taller 1st is really really nice. Now it surprise me why stock trans came with such short 1st gear. There is enough torque to handle 17% taller 1st.

Interesting that your SB Kevlar disk says EXEDY on it..

I had a brand new disk from a part out I did a while back.. it looked like a SB disk... and said Exedy on it. I heard that was common.. but just assumed it was a Exedy disk. I installed it on my car.. with the plate it came with... spent 500kms breaking it in.. and first 25psi launch.. it slipped and never held again.

Also.. it looks like you had way too much lube on your shaft... that may have helped it slip.


After so many years with ACT2600 plates.. any thing else feels too light to be a race car clutch.

So how does one determine how much lube they need on their shaft? Is that determined by shaft size? Tightness of the hole? How much movement it will be seeing?

HA! King to you Ziggy

Good eye Jay, i didn't pay attention the disk was actually made by Exedy. Here is close up pic of the disk (Surface was cleaned for better visibility):


^ I think the disk itself is great but SB PP is way too weak. It could be a really nice combo if used with ACT 2600 PP or higher.


Speaking about ACT PP. After driving for 2 days i started liking it a lot. It does grab fairly close to the floor (about half way) with master adjusted to Jack's tutorial but so far it's livable. The stiffens could become an issue during heavy bumper to bumper traffic but engament with street disk is very satisfying so far. I just hope it will hold my launches after breaking period is over.

Regarding my new trans, so far the most satisfying upgrade is EVO 3 5th gear. Here is the snapshot that shows RPM vs Speed. At 120km/h my factory 5th gear was sitting at 3500rpm. With EVO 3 it dropped to 3100. It's much more quieter and can do near 140 before i hit 3500rpms. Maintaining higher speeds on freeway feels smooth & easy. I highly recommend this upgrade if you like to cruise a lot in 5th!

Jason, exedy probably makes 99% of all the hubs used in all the clutch disks you see. That is pretty standard. These companies like ACT or SB get exedy hubs and manufacture their own clutch disk around it.

Exedy also make 99% of all OEM friction disc's. So it isnt that uncommon to see

The excess shaft lube would cause chattering long before any slippage. Oil or grease will cause hotspots on friction materials and cause grabbing not slippage. Different then a rearmain or input shaft seal leak that would soak the disc and cause slippage.

Just checked hubs on my last few clutches:

ACT 6puck & street disk




^If ACT hub marked ACT does it still mean it was not made by ACT?

RX8 OEM Clutch kit





^ Exedy

Time to start tearing down.
[img:center]OutOld by Kill Joy, on Flickr[/img]

separated by Kill Joy, on Flickr

BesideMyself by Kill Joy, on Flickr

^ looking good. Is there anything better than toying with those things in heated garage when it's cold outside? ... and firing up on the first day of spring

Some day I will have heat in my garage.

This is my first time having a heated garage for the winter, it is my buddies place and so far I am loving it! Spring startup is something i am looking forward to kind of like the little car and interested in trying some power through the AutoMagic!

Likewise lol.

It does heat up a little after the oven has been on half a day but still not sweater comfortable.

Your lucky that happen on the jack stands and not at the track ouch.

Haven't done any "build" yet but I did mess around with it a little lol

you just turned some snow mixed with engine bearings into a masterpiece video! Keep them coming ... perfect selection on tunes once again

Why no side exit death?

Yeah I thought you were pulling up for side exit

and where is the stock muffler

I tried the side exit and with it and the rear open, the exhaust pressure is too low, LOTS of flow but not enough restriction to get a high pressure blast like the rear alone...this mean it's doing it's job perfectly of reducing the back pressure

The last place I drove the car before hibernation was at the track and in the USA so no need for the stock muffler lol

Starting to go together, slugs back in

Topfilled by Kill Joy, on Flickr

Finally getting some head! HKS 264/272 evo 8 rockers new nitrided valves evo 8 beehive springs evo 8 Titanium retainers.

[img:center]Long20180313_232056 by Kill Joy, on Flickr[/img]

It is the right day for it!

Any day is the right day for getting head...

Just a Prime, belt and cover and in it goes Done!

almost by Kill Joy, on Flickr

Prime by Kill Joy, on Flickr

Lookin great John. Can’t wait to hear it running.

It's been a hectic year so far, my dad spent a month and a half in the hospital, is finally out and starting to recuperate so I've had very little time for anything.

I did manage to get my turbo off and sent over to Nick @ TPC for some experimental work. Goal was not really to make more power but to make better power. So he swapped out the cast 35r compressor wheel and TD06H4 turbine shaft for a billet compressor wheel that's ever so slighter taller and a 9 blade turbine wheel, saving a total of 80g on the rotating assembly. Only time will tell how it performs but I should have usable power a few hundred RPM lower and a little more top end as well while lessening back pressure in the turbine housing. We shall see!

Off and ready to ship out





Here's the thrust bearing after 4 years of hard abuse, fed strictly Valvoline VR1 conventional since day 1. Turbo still had zero play in it.



Now onto the new hotness!





Now I had sent my injectors to Nick as well for cleaning, he found one was flowing 6% less than the others, not good!

So he did a cleaning but did not bring back the proper flow so I shipped them off to FIC, they're going to let me know if they can repair it or find a matching injector to replace the faulty one.

That's all I've managed to accomplish so far but I have a lot more planned.

Looking good boys ))) i will soon post update on mine ((

That thing is beautiful Jason!!

A little bit of hooking up we are there!!


Backin by Kill Joy, on Flickr

Jealous man!! I need to make some time to get into the garage! It's a pain in the ass now that i have to go outside though. Planning to add an entrance this summer!!!