Ongoing clutch engagement issue

So as some of you may be aware from before i have had my fair share of clutch issues and have been babying my clutch/tranny for a while now

I am in the works of grabbing a used transmission at the moment and hope to have it by the weekend

I had recently done a clutch fluid flush where i opened the bleeder on the underside of the car and remained on top while adding fluid pressing clutch pedal a few times was told by buddy below no air bubbles were released

then i did a clutch pedal adjustment where i adjusted the pedal to what i believe is the max point since the rod wouldnt turn anymore

but now my clutch is bearable at points slipping but i can still drive around without holding up traffic but randomly it goes to a point where at a dead stop i can release the clutch fully not stall but barely moves taking a few minutes to get some momentum to get moving

I just want to make sure that their isnt something outside of the transmission/clutch that could be causing this

NNOOOO!!!!

This is the only way it should be done.

Yea i followed that terry but what i meant is i had turned it to the max point without the fork being unmovable

That's odd

Not that i can notice and fluid level has never dropped over the year ive owned her

Clutch is worn out... replace it. If you can put it in gear and it does stall or move forward... the clutch is done.

Havent tried without pedal pressed down but will tmmw morning please confirm you did mean to say

" If you can put it in gear and it does stall or move forward... the clutch is done."

Not to take your thread, but can this be also related to TOB wear like mine? Haven't driven the car much if any, but it definitely doesn't shift as smooth as my 2g. Was thinking doing the clutch adjustment like Manny this wkn. May even change the slave/master cylinders to be on the safe side as suggested by Reza.

You said in you first post you can release the clutch and it takes sometime to get moving....thats called slipping.

Gui it could be. It could cause permature wear. Yours was more of a not disengaging completely issue. And yes you should adjust your master or rebuild and adjust it.

Sorry meant doesnt stall or move forward.

Good, I'll be definitely doing it then. Thanks!

I second that motion. You might be able to get away with only replacing the Disc and TOB. get the FW Resurfaced to proper Specs and you should be good to go.

Is their something other than a worn out clutch or tob that can be blamed for the changing pedal feels/engagements? Forgot to mention sometimes the clutch pedal pushes down with what i think is normal pressure and sometimes it is much stiffer no consistency or patterns as to how it changes

I have heard of guys that have picked up cars and the tranny wasn't properly attached to the engine so everytime they pushed the cluch it would seperate a little bit.

Just noticed your WTB thread but it seemed off topic to post there.

Do not use extended flywheel bolts and a shim. You don't need them. If they're too long, the bolt heads will contact the centre hub of your friction disc and cause you far more problems than you already have.

Your clutch was in bad shape when you bought the car last year. Time to change it.

Dont need extended bolts even with the fidanza flywheel and act 2600?

I have never used a Fidanza flywheel but I'm pretty sure you're fine with OEM flywheel bolts torqued to spec. Maybe somebody else running one can chime in.

I know some guys will put a shim plate to protect the aluminum, but if you really think you're going to wear out your flywheel by scoring the surface with the mounting bolts, you should probably figure out why you're having to take your flywheel off so frequently.....

With my fidanza flywheel I used the standard bolts, but after putting the flywheel into the other car, I noticed there were some chips in the flywheel around where the bolts heads were.

I'd go with the shim personally to avoid damaging the flywheel.

I tried extended bolts with ACT flywheel and they simply bottom out so I end up using factory bolts instead. My guess is they are only compatible with thicker flywheels.

I have a fidenza flywheel, with a south bend clutch. I used the extended flywheel bolts and everything works fine.

It's simple,, really, if you buy the extend bolts then you have to measure the dept with a caliper once you have the flywheel mounted. If that depth is greater than the length of the threaded section of the bolt then congratulations - you have a bolt that will fit.

Going through RTM's site building my shopping cart and i was looking at the stainless braided clutch lines...there are 3 available but all 3 mention bypassing the accumulator...anyone done this i understand it makes the pedal feel a bit rougher any opinions? and am i safe with buying just the one technafit master to slave line

Also are flywheel to pressure plate dowels needed?

I deleted my accumulator when I still had hard lines. It felt no different.

I then replaced my hardline with a braided stainless line from master to slave, and the pedal feel became slightly squishier. Not very noticeable.

Yes you need flywheel to pressure plate dowels.

And braided lines will always flex more under pressure then a hardline.

Thanks Jeremy...im going to try and replace as many components for my drivetrain now as possible

List looks like this:

-used fidanza lightweight flywheel with new friction surface
-Aluminum flywheel install kit including shim and extended bolts
-Lightly used Act 2600 disc and pp
-New oem TOB
-Stainless steel braided clutch line
-OEM Slave cylinder rebuild kit

Still debating replacing the master but i dont notice any leaks


@Stephen do the pros outweigh the cons of the braided lines?

Also looking at the flywheel install kit...how many flywheel to pp bolts and shims do i need for a 7 bolt? Hope this isnt a newb question lol the reason i ask is i chose the 7 bolt option on rtm but for the flywheel to pp bolts and dowels its default is coming up 6

The only real "pro" of the stainless line is that it's easier to work with than a hardline, as you don't have to worry about it kinking as you move it around. That being said, the "cons" are fairly negligible. I went with a stainless line because my hardlines were corroded, and I was not too competent with fabricating hardlines at the time.

There are 6 flywheel to pressure plate bolts. There are 3 flywheel to pressure plate dowels. There are 7 flywheel to crankshaft bolts (on a 7bolt).

Ziggy has ez bend lines and as the name alludes they are very easy to work with.
Just a heads up on the 2600, it's not a very streetable clutch so it will take plenty of getting used too.

Just to add difficulty to my decision i came across this

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-...-4g63-turbo-engine-and-tranny/1007847056

As you may all know i am having an issue of burning oil after idle

Seller is willing to part for $600

As Jeremy stated. Plus you dont have flare anything. But dont think of it as upgrade more of an easy way to replace the line. Just a braided line from the hardline to slave would be an upgrade.

And 3/16 brakeline is so very easy to bend without kinking it. But I guess after bending 1/4 stainless line all other lines are pretty easy.

So i have completed the clutch and flywheel job but i have hit a bit of a snag

When i press the clutch the last 1/8thish it is significantly stiffer than the feel when initially pressed down

Shifting is a lot smoother once the clutch is pressed all the way down a bit notchy when i dont put that extra pressure on the clutch pedal to complete the throw

Also when in gear and idling it does not seem that i have a dragging clutch but i will try putting it in first and taking it to 7000 rpm to see if it creeps forwards

When releasing clutch in first at a dead stop the car is a bit jumpy as i guess the engagement point is very close to the floor

Recap of new parts is
-new southbend stage 2 daily kit
-new fidanze flywheel with extended bolts and shim
-new aftermarket slave cylinder
-new throw out bearing

Hydraulic system was bled several times

Any help would be great kinda at a dead stop

I wonder if shimming the pivot ball would have helped.

Shitty deal Manny.