ostrich and jackal

I'm going this route and thought I would open a discussion for those who have used it and keep a running total of what it is costing me and the features I'm finding out as I go.
So far I have spent
$105 on the ostrich.

As for features.
Live tuning so it can be done with the car on.
I can use jackal to log too.
I can hook up my wideband and a boost controller through the stock wiring harness.
And it has all the features my burnt chip has which makes sense since it is a chip emulator.

If anyone has used this system before please chime in with comments positive or negative.

Ive used it several times.

Compare the $105 ostrich plus the $20 software to the $500 Link. Everythjng else will cost the same. JACKAL can be upgraded to Warewolf.. For $180.

The only real diferance is the logging cable. Its seperate then the ostrich cable. You can buy them .. But you can make them aswell... DsMap encourages DIY and will give you info on the DIY cable. Plus they sell a very nice map sensor for a great price.

Jackal runs in closed loop all the time.. The sensors are just here for thresh hold adjustments. So technicly the car will run without a wideband or o2sensor. some have installed DSMap in there cars wihout a wideband and uploaded the stock 1g map that comes with it and drove around fine with out any tuning at all. I did for a month or so.

You can log with dsmap.. But I found its easier to log with a palm pilot. Works the same princapals.. But you can leave the palm in the car all the time and log all the time with out your laptop. I mounted the palm dock onto the and if you have a palm allready, it saves you thebother of having to get a logging cable.

I assume you mean Jackal runs in open loop if you can run with no WB/O2 sensors.

Er ya.. I get that mixed up all the time. Most stand alones like megasquirt, only run in open loop. So you dont hear that term much.

Surely logging will be easier on thw laptop whilst tuning?

While tuning sure. If you got the cable and have the laptop anyway. Its a bigger screen. But its no differant.. Shows the same values. Same log. I find it easier to adjust the ve table values if I dont have to flip thru screens. But if you dont have a palm... Dont worry about it. Lal

Just paid $75 shipped for the map sensor, iat sensor, pigtail and bung.
So $180 so far.

Sandras is ready to go in..got everything ready to go.... But im having a hard time finding an ecu.

Just socket the one you have Jay.
All you need is an iron and solder braid, and solder

I have everything.. Just too scared to wreck it.. And I dont have a spare to send away.

Look on dsmtuners/talk sure there are a few for sale.

Once I switch over to ostrich will that stop sensors changing ecu values, I.e a faulty water temp sensor making the car run rich?

Please view this ad:

1G/DSM/ 4G63/Eagle Talon E-Prom ECU,
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-...m-4g63-eagle-talon-e-prom-ecu/1023550171

Price: $ 100.00

Download the application from the Google Play Store.
http://goo.gl/Hs9Yg

I can do it for ya. Ghiz showed me the process on mine. And I am fairly confident doing it again.

Just passed on the torch to Corte. He is your Man!!!

Ghislain

I just texted the guy.. Anyone we know?

So im going to pic the ecu up tonite. It looks as if it has been socketed, but he says its not.

Kirk.. To actually buy the software you will have to become part of dsmap. So register and make a few post and buy Jackal for the 20 bucks. Then you can open it up on your laptop... No car or ostrich needed. Upload the 1gmap from the directory. And play around with it. From what I remember... The cts is a thresth hold value.. So it does effect the cars performance.. But can be zeroed out to have no effect.

Already a member and posts have been made I will download and have a play tonight.

Just downloaded it and it doesn't seem like anything can be done without the ostrich plugged in

open the program on your laptop.. then in the sub menus, it will give the option to uplaod stock 1g map. then you can brouse and play with all the options.

So I ended up buying the Ecu from that guy! he was cool. Been racing a rally dsm for years... Just sold everything. I even got a really good deal on some 16" Kumhos! prolly sell them tho. I will install dsmap on friday night or saterday.. And try to document everything.

What is your setup jay?

Sandras car is 92 auto awd.. Big 16g.. 3" turbo back... PLX Wideband.. 450cc injectors for now..The rest is stock

Got a 255 pump, 880cc injectors, supra sidmount, and a meth kit once Im runnjng dsmap.

Found the base map loaded it up and boooooom mind blown lol, haven't got a clue what im looking at haha.

You should be able to just set your injectors.. Not by global percentage... But just input the cc of the injectors. And adjust each rpm dead time up to compansate for that injector rated dead time.

When its in the car hooked up to an ostrich, it will see the ostrich and then you can save the map to the ostrich. Start the car... And hit the logger. At this point you can drive. The idle and cruise is pretty good already... Since it dosent have Airperrev and mafcomp adjustments. All you need to do is tune your WOT.

yeah I can see the injector dead time scale, I have 650's so I will have to add 210.
As for adjusting fuel at WOT I do that on the VE table correct?
What afr's at what rpms would I be looking for?

Add dead time based on what ever the injector calls for. Injectors are all differant and require differant dead times. Theres a chart on ecmlink.. And many other tunning websites.

Tune WOT the same as u would with Link. Make a 3rd gear pull watching your afr. Make sure if the car goes way too lean or rich... Back off. And adjust

After you get a log.. Compare your actual wideband reading to the target afr. Adjust the ve table for that rpm using the formula i posted in Bryans fucked post. And make another pull. Keep adjusting till your actual afr... Matches your target afr. Once it matches... Then fine tune your target afr.

I believe im at 11.5 at full boost 25psi 3500rpms. And 11.0 by 7500 rpms.

Thanks this is all good info I have never tuned anything before so its all helpful.

Aim for 11 at WOT and go from there. 11.5 without meth on 94 is pushing it past what I'd consider the safe zone. I wouldn't ever go much past there (MAYBE up to 11.2 once it's all dialed in) unless switch to race gas or meth.

Once you get it dialed in at around 11 then you can work on adjusting timing and boost. First get boost to where you want it (you may have to back the timing off first, especially if running the stock map which is very aggressive). Once you have the AFR and boost you want then start dialling in timing.

When adjusting timing am I just aiming to retard it when knock occurs.

Just leave it be untill you got the fuel figured out. But ya.. I find that whenit starts knocking. it will start with a high count..and lower as the car automaticly pulls timing. Start at that point and lower it a few dagrees.. But aslong as your base timing is fine..you shouldnt need to pull timjng. just add it when you can. The 1g map you unload is pretty conservitive for a 1g.

So i was out driving around with Jackal last night I was running the stock auto fpr which is 45psi so I was way rich. So to get it to idle at 14.1, I had to up the injector size to 600 even tho they are 450cc. This was fine.. But made me run lean at wot. Lol. So im gonna source a manual fpr or an afpr. And go from there.

Can you use multiple laptops on one ostrich? And once I use jackal On it could I change to werewolf or tuner pro.

Once you downloaded the key file... You can copy it into as many computers as you want. So download Jackal onto any computer... And either open the email from Hak on each laptop.. Or just move the file over via a gizmo. I have Jackal runnjng on 2 differant laptops. One of my laptops runs both LInk and Jackal..

JACKAL can be upgraded to wearwolf.. I nevet ever got tunerpro to work for me.

And if you run Palm desktop on your laptop to sync with your palm.. It will cause issues with Jackal com ports.. So remove Palm desktop softwear first.

Hey Jay, say one wanted to burn chips using Jackal/werewolf instead of leaving the emulator plugged in. Do you know how it would be done?

Not really. They discuss it on the forum but noone has done it. The ostrich isnt the same as a chip.. Its softwear dosent work like a programable chip. It works as a programable ecu that controls the stock ecu. Im not a computer wiz so I dont actually know the spacifics... Why would you wanna remove the Ostich? Some people remove the ostrich when they leave the car as a security measure. Mine will hide under the radio.

Unless you are looking for chip burning softwear.. In that case.. I think here is free dsm chip burning softwear out there.. But you gotta buy the burner. Which is silly.. Considering the burner is just as expensive as the ostrich.

From what i just read it was a feature in the old version of jackal but he removed it.

How come the injector dead time can only be altered in increments instead of single digits

How big are the increments? You dont need to get them perfect as technically, they wont ever be. You just need them as close as possible.

Also, I know ECMLink V3 Lite only allowed incriments of -/+15, while the full version allows it within 5.

You must have an older version. I know Ive had individual deadtimes, along with increments as low as 1 for the longest time.

Not with V3 lite on a 1g. This was just last year. Even the 2G's with V3 full get a minimum increments of 5. You can go uo/down by 1 if you adjust it by the battery voltage though.

Ok so she is all dialed in...... kinda i have a leaky injector seal and we had teething troubles with the profec ebc, which brings me to this question.
What solenoids are you using to control boost via jackel?

Some reading for you
http://forums.ds-map.net/electronic...tronic-boost-controller/msg7079/#msg7079
http://forums.ds-map.net/electronics/boost-control-solenoids/msg6888/#msg6888

Haha that's my thread, I'm more interested in which ones are you using and where did you buy it.

Haha well there you go.
This is what most of the ecmlink guys are running.
http://www.ecmtuning.com/product_info.php?cPath=28&products_id=54
I have an extra one if you are interested.

I most certainly am :)is it as simple as wiring it up and set the boost?

Yup!

Yeah and it's just a relay so you can't even put it in backward.
PM and we can figure something out.

Installed a 3 port solenoid went out for a drive and it hits 27psi so am I right in stating I simply have to lower my percentages in the boost control section till I get my desired boost which is 20btw. 
Also i noticed the boost cut was set at 20 so how did I hit 27?

Haha wow, if you hit 27psi low enough in your rpms than that's probably why it didn't cut. Yeah should jus tlower your duty cycle