Spark Plugs

I'm not sure if this is a bad thing or not, going to go with bad thing. Here are my spark plugs. Having some tuning done remotely and car seems to be fine. Get on the boost after baseline tune and car is brutal now, smoke and leaning out.




If I'm reading my tool correctly, they are gapped to .035. Im assuming those are how they came and never got gapped properly.

What plugs should I be running? It was suggested that I run br7es because of my desired boost levels of 20-25 psi on an evo 3 16g. Once I determine which plugs to run, they should be gapped at .028 correct?

I will upload my log in another post, this one is getting clustered already enough

Not sure how to upload my log...

I'm still learning myself but i used the info on the RTM site, which i consider highly trustworthy. So I think the BPR7ES would be a good choice.

https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=19565&cat=1001&page=1

I think 0.028" is right but i can't imagine the gap would be causing the smoke and lean condition. Probably lots of misfires.

Like i said, i'm not an expert, just trying to be helpful so...

Never sounded like a misfire though. I did find out that one of the plugs wires wasn't even attached. When I switched plug wires this year, one of the boots stayed behind. FML

Well that would definitely cause an issue or three...

Mine are gapped to 0.22 as it was suggested by Jason D. Never had miss fire issues ever since

Is the a benefit for non projected vs projected? Not sure why I had br6es vs bpr6es and so on. My head was decked when I rebuilt the motor, everything is stock otherwise.

You want to go with the non projected type plugs like BR6ES, BR7ES, BR8ES.

BR6ES = Stock to 20psi
BR7ES = 20psi to 35psi
BR8ES = 35+psi

Non projected plugs help fight against spark blow out in high boost applications.

Higher boost, if you experience misses during a pulls, gradually reduce gap starting from 0.26 to 0.18.

That would be my suggestion.

As mentioned earlier, the stock gap is .028, if the car is not stock then that value is irrelevant.

I personally run mine at .022 with no misfire at 35 psi on stock coils and NGK oem replacement wires.

I would suggest getting a set of feeler gauges, those round plug gauges are not that accurate, not a huge deal with lower boost but when you get up in the higher power levels you want to maintain consistency between cylinders

Definitely toss that ramp gapper. You can damage electrodes with them especially the tiny ones like Iridium.

My feeler gauge is like a switch blade. Works very well! I run 7es @ 022. Taylor pro 8mm, stock coil and 25psi. No issues here.

For those wondering, she'll see the light of day later this season.

April 1st was a while ago...

I thought it was still almost ten months away?

Harhar

Running 21 psi now ,planned on 25 eventually. I should never need different plugs after I get these. I will ad more fuel later on but plan on keeping this turbo for a while. Only have 650's and a 190 in tank with an evo3 16g.

Clearly, my plugs were never gaped. They were all the same. I have feeler gauges, the ramp gives a better picture.

Updated the FAQ. https://dsmfaq.com/q/408
Thanks for the correction JD.

I've had my green up to 30 psi and 9000RPM on BR8ES plugs, stock gap of 0.028", stock NGK wires, stock coil packs. I've never had a misfire. No reason to close up that gap if you don't need to, and you really shouldn't need to until you are cranking out some serious power. If you're getting misfires that AREN'T at higher loads, closing the gap won't help.

It should be mentioned that those psi to heat range numbers are accurate for 16G sized turbos.

Found BR7ES locally. They are apparently common snow machine plugs, always in stock. I will gap them to 0.028" and go from there. Pouring rain all day, car wont be seeing any action today.

Has also been suggested that my O2 sensors may be fouled from the car not really been driven the last few years and seeing random heating cycles.

How do I post a log on here? A few more eyes on it never hurt.

As far I know. You have to upload it to Dropbox then add the link here.....but I am semi computer illiterate.

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=DA96B87E0159203F!262&authkey=!AC9cU_7c_jr6o44&ithint=file%2celg

Hopefully this works, never used 1drive

almost 18 counts of knock. Yowza.

I'm still new at this but I will say:

BoostEst of 48 and near 100% duty cycle.

Have you boost leak tested / compression tested? I assume you are not running 48 pounds of boost.

I have always bought BR7ES, BR8ES and BR9ES at any Canadian Tire for over 10 years. They are readily available off the shelf in the spark plug section. Look for the NGK Sports.

On a side note, I run BR9ES Solid Cores, gapped to 0.016", stock ignition system and sh!t loads of boost.

I change them when I do an oil change. Approx ~ $50 for a jug of Castrol 10w40, 4 fresh BR9ES's and a new Mitsu filter is the service my DSM gets

I got off it once the knock showed up. Running 21 psi with 650's on 91 octane gas. May have to dial things back alot, which I am fine with at this point.

I would agree with dialing it back, you are playing with fire with a duty cycle like that.

Did I run out of fuel? Only running 650's with a wally 190. Maybe I should be upgrading my fuel supply before I do anything else.

Or is my tune just way to much for my current setup?

Going to do another BLT this week, was good earlier this season. Haven't change much of anything since them, maybe a coupler isnt tight.

I didn't check your log but Chuck is saying your are logging close to 100% duty cycle, you shouldn't be going over 80% for an extended period of time. The 190 will be ok but those 650s could use an upgrade, if it's the pump than your car will lean out.

Very close to 100%. I thought 650's were good for way more than I'm throwing at it, I guess not.

Am I seeing the same log? I only saw 5.6* of knock.

Things are way off, you're not pulling 46 lbs/min on a 16g @ 4400 rpm.

I didnt think so either. Not sure whats going on, I am looking at getting my injectors modded by FIC. Will hear back shortly, hopefully.

Every degree retarded is 3 counts of knock.
5.6 degrees of timing being pulled is near 18 counts of knock.

I ran a 16g at 18psi on 550's no problem. Something is off with air flow metering causing the ECU to dump way too much fuel for actual air going in.

Bad MAF? Stock MAF? GM Maf? Intake Leak? (can a 16g free flow through a leak 46lb/min?)

GM MAF with translator.

Pretty sure I have a spare somewhere, maybe ill try it and see if the one in there is wrong. The MAF settings in link might very well be wrong aswell, stuff like this didnt happen when everything was zero'd out.

Finally got around to changing the plugs. Gapped them to .028 and fired it up. Clearly my old ones were not working properly, my car used to smell like a snow machine. Can't test drive tonight, its finally raining. Going to pull my O2 sensors and see what shape they are in tomorrow and go from there.

I'm still not understanding the airflow readings.