Electronic boost control help needed

So let me explain what's going on. Bought a used apexi avcr electronic boost controller. Installed it a while ago and then later found car wouldn't start. Looked at my ecmlink logs and found the was stuck at 100%. Thought my tps sensor was bad and changed it. Still had the same problem.

This weekend decided to try cutting the wires for the apexi avcr off the ECU and was able to start the car. So I'm assuming something is going on with the apexi unit.

So now I need to find a way to control boost. Thinking about trying to use the solenoid valve from the apexi unit to connect to ecmlink to do boost by gear but don't know if it's compatible or how to set it up. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks guys!

What Solenoid does the Apexi use?

It's just got the Apexi marking no other brand name I know of.

I remember there were some that Ecmtuning didnt recommend due to the blowing the BCS driver circuit. The IR 3 port from them is relatively inexpensive if you want to stay with what they recommend.

Luke do you have a wiring diagram for the apexi

This is the one i use:


source

Did the apexi avcr electronic boost controller ever worked on your setup? or problem since first start?

Yep thats the IR solenoid.

I got that one for $28 from Zoro

EDIT: it's gone up a bit but still way cheaper than Grainger

https://www.zoro.com/aro-solenoid-air-control-valve-18-in-12vdc-p251ss-012-d/i/G1419713/

I never had it working. I wired it in to my car and that's when the tps problem started. Removed it from my car and problem went away.



I will have to go look at the site again and see if I can find that list.

wired it up like the manual says to.

Good find!
I use Zoro for other hard to find stuff such as egr plug. Never let me down

Hm, that's weird. It shouldn't be messing with your signal considering it should just be reading it.

I assume you used pin 84 for speed sensor. What is the car reading voltage wise on the tps?

So I had some time this morning to do some more digging.
Looks like the resistance is a pinch higher than the IR one which means it's not in the danger zone but I think you would need to check it to confirm it actually works. (I am no electrician though I am just basing that on what is said on the link website.)

ref:
http://dsmlink.com/wiki/bcschoice
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ecuflash/379043-bcs-testing-data-5.html