Brad Penn vs Royal Purple HPS vs Rotella T6

Was having a small discussion with a facebook group member when I commented on a picture of a car putting royal purple as engine oil

I think I recall someone telling me RP isn't the best

I was looking to get a bulk order of brad penn motor oil but after doing a bit of research as to this members claims ive come to a halt

He claims Royal Purple HPS or even rotella t6 is a better option for our motors than the brad penn

Slight research does show higher zinc contents than brad penn

what do you guys have to say about this

this issue is with Royal Purple from CT, which is just the basic stuff with no zinc or any other goodies.

Bookmark this link though it has all the info you need.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=Oil_Supply

Is it ok that I am looking at the 8/9 specs since theirs nothing for the dsm 1990-99

http://store.forcedperformance.net/...0Recommendations%20for%20Motor%20Oil.pdf

This is what you want

Regular Royal Purple is not adequate. The Royal Purple that is is super expensive. Rotella is a decent option a lot of turbo cars use as well. But bang for the buck Brad Penn is by far the best and it is proven - it's just not that easy to get your hands on.

So just from a quick look at that article it looks like the value for the price of oil that makes BP the desirable oil?

Correct me if im wrong

That's the reason I chose it.

thinking of doing a bulk order from one of the local suppliers...anyone know of any that would offer a bulk price before I start calling shops?

I use RP Oil in Whitby. The price is usually around $65/case of 12L. It might have changed by now though. They seem to be more of a commercial supplier so probably the reason the pricing is so good.

Looks like a few options closer to you though:
http://locator.penngrade1.com/default.aspx

That's pretty wicked price. Ontario Competition Fuels, was 80 some for the same.

Going to try HotNights Hotrods when I need my next batch as it's on my way to my parents and right at the end of Forks of the Credit on 10

I blow a lot of money on AMS Dominator oil for my car, and I don't regret it.

Now, for a stock DSM, I'd just run a simple synthetic, whatever brand is on sale at Canadian Tire. And allow the season and oil pressure to judge what weight I use.

OCF that Bryan mentioned is around $80-90 for a case now (taxes incl.). There's a place in Waterloo that had better pricing.

Here in Detroit there's a motor/performance shop about 10 minutes from home that carries BP and it costs me about $70 USD (taxes incl.). Even if I could get it slightly cheaper if you factor the conversion rate, once you factor in time and convenience it comes out way ahead.

I run BP in my Talon, my Laser and my '69 Malibu.

I used to use Esso XD3 diesel oil. Was recomended to me by a Audi speciallist when I was changing oil for a living. The it became obsulete.So the Audi dealership suggested Mobil 1 Delvac ESP 0w40. Its prolly my favorate oil. But since I dont have the business anymore... I cant get a deal on it. And its expensive.

I switched to Rotella t5 blend 10w30. Its about the same price as Jamies Brad Penn but I know I can find it pretty much anywhere I am. Altho I liked the brad penn. The life span of brad penn isnt even close to Rotella.


Coarse thats fine if you only drive your car a few hours a year!!!!!!

Daily over here!

Since I drive more than anyone here, especially in DSMs, I feel like I'm pretty qualified to say that running Brad Penn and doing 5-8k km oil changes have presented no issues. I do 5k MAX on the Talon (run much harder) and 6-8k on the Laser since it's all stock. I've put over 20k on the laser alone in the past 4.5 months - 1.5 of which I wasn't even driving it - and it did fine. I've been using Brad Penn in the Talon for a while now and again - no issues on a car that's making a decent bit of power, driven hard, and driven lots. I'm on track to click off 60-80k+ in my DSMs alone for 2015 and it will all be with Brad Penn.

The Malibu doesn't see as much driving but she still sees a fair bit when the weather is nice and Brad Penn has worked well for me there as well.

I wouldnt think you wouldnt notice any issues using a spacific oil unless you could measure wear tolerances in your bearings. As the oil breaks down, it becomes less effective. But you wouldnt notice untill your motor blew or your turbo blows......

Ive read several post of people who have their oil tested and the brad penn seems to be known for breaking down faster then average oils. But it is a race oil and isnt really intended for daily use.

Not saying you cant daily it, just meant that Rotella is good for way more then 5k changes. Altho I change my oil way too much to worrie about life spans. Lol.

For the record.. I use what ever is on sale at walmart in the truck... Except for no name brands. and Sandras 1g gets on sale synthetic.

Wheres Jason Drew and his Vr1 valvoline????

I used to be able to get Valvoline VR1 for $3.59/qt so it has been my go to for years. Now it's up to around $7 but still not a bad price for a good proven oil. I might go for some Rotella this year, it's all I run in my truck and is the #1 choice for the Cummins guys.

@Jay Stacey any specific reason you go t5 rather than t6? Noticed on walmarts website they only have 5w40 rotella t6

These engines run fine on regular conventional zinc-free oil. Generally the bigger concern regarding oil is your turbocharger. A 14B is not picky.

Royal Purple is a waste of money. Dominator, VR1, Rotella, Brad Penn, or regular, plain old Castrol GTX. It doesn't REALLY matter; pick something decent, stick with it, change it every 5000km. You put enough mileage on that racing oils will easily make it 5000km before they're dirty.

When you're about to run a freshly rebuilt engine or turbo, get picky with your oil.

And at the end of the day, pick your oil based on oil. I don't know about the rest of you guys, but as far as costs go, engine oil is a small one. I spent more money on new bolts this winter than I have on oil changes for the past 3 years, and I only run AMSOil....

Everything I learned over the years about rebiulding turbos.. Is they prefer zink. And dont like detergants. I run any oil in my truck cause its just a NA gas motor. I run synthetic in the stock 1g find turbos like synthetic. But I run the sh!t out of my 2g with a diesel turbo so give it what I believe will take the most abuse and offer the best protection. And try to keep it conveniant and affordable since I change my 2g oil way more then I change my other vehicles oils.


But thats just me. And yes Royal purple is just an expansive name. Some would say the same for Amsoil.

My post directed at Manny, though I realize I never actually indicated that in any way.

I agree with everything you said. And the people who would say the same about AMSOil would be correct, if referring to their standard oil (XL series, I believe). It's crap. Dominator is God's gift to turbochargers.

What I meant was, between two oils, it really doesn't matter which one is better if both are more than good enough.

In my opinion it doesn't matter how good the oil is - with these cars if you're beating on them you should be changing the oil frequently, especially at high-above-stock power levels. I'd be willing to bet that the filter is probably one of the bigger issues in running longer km on an oil change. If you could change the filter without having to drain a lot of the oil you'd probably be able to get a lot more out of the good oils (but at that point why not spend the money and just change the oil to completely clean oil instead of 'okay to run' oil).

Either way, like Jeremy said - most of these options listed are more than good enough and it's really just splitting hairs for our needs besides the cost aspect.

I had a 87 chrysler 2.2 lebaron. It burnt and leaked so much oil... I just took what people removed during their oil changes and topped it up. Car ran great for a year on litre a week top ups of who knows what!!!

Thats badass. LOL

Did it talk to you every time the oil went low?

No need for a dipstick... just add oil until the clacking goes away

It was a 80s chrysler. That piston slap never went away ! that thing never let me down. 3 differant colours of body panels, 2 differant types of wheels, and so much steering slop, it would never actually drive straight.

Film strength does matter, as proven my FP's research when it comes to large journal bearing turbos.

Never said it didn't

Well said Salomon! I've used Rotella T through my old Stealth TT exclusively and now in my 4G63 and it's great stuff, and on the cheap! I used to use the expensive stuff and it didn't make sense considering how long the oil spent in the engine before it was changed.

I use OEM honda S2000 filters because of how well they're built and filter. They cost over half of what the oil costs but it makes more sense to put the extra money there.

All my vehicles are turbocharged except for my bike. I have a preferred customer account with Amsoil. I've used amsoil since my Lancer was new, everytime (it's a daily) and in our truck (Ecoboost).

However in the talon I have been running Castrol GTX. Not sure if I will continue to do so, but I end up with quite a bit in my catch can so I was concerned with the cost associated to topping it up and dumping whats in the catch can. Considered the Rotella T6 as an alternative.

I found castrol GTX felt thin and dirty right out of the bottle.

Thin for sure, I put GTX in my engine and it was pretty much all gone within 500km

I've been running Rotella T 15w40 in the Talon for a good few years now. Seems to like it.

Roman, how come you run 15w40. I am wondering if I should switch to that.

15w40 is the most common diesel oil.

The 40 weight oil is good for abusing the sh!t out of the motor, its heavy duty. But it is heavy. Ford claimed their cars i tiny bit more HP when they started recomending 5w20 over the normal 5w30... Just cause its lighter. Thats sorta why I went with the T5 oil.. Its actaully a 10w30. Heavy duty, yet lighter.

Also keep in mind that roumor has it that all the sut protection in diesel oil isnt good for cats. But Ive never seen any proof of this.

Just want to add my 0.02 cents.
I'v been running Mobil 1 10w30 with OEM filter in all my Mitsus. My Talon is the longest mobil 1 consumer and it survived to 260k without smoking. When time comes i will be taking it apart to inspect internal wear.

After reading about zinc in forced performance oil review i am now leaning towards Bred Penn 20W-50 or 10w-30 once my next engine is ready to drop in. Summers here are drastically hot so 20w-50 should provide better protection unless you guys think otherwise. Amazon sells 12 packs for about 78 $

Here is something on oil viscosity. it points out that oil temperature is a main factor in choosing the higher number of a multi vis. oil.
http://www.motorstate.com/oilviscosity.htm

Is $150 for a case (12L) of amsoil a good price?

Which amsoil? I think that's what I paid for my dominator. Their regular synthetic is a lot cheaper.

I saw Lucas oil at CT yesterday. Marine grade but I figure they have car too no?

$150 for 12? Jesus. That ain't cheap at all. That's ridiculous... I don't even want to take a guess as to what they'd charge per individual bottle at a store if that's what they charge for a case.

I believe it's that one stephan was the higher end

Don't use dominator unless you need to. It's more expensive, you gotta change it very frequently (I change it once a month) because it lacks detergents and breaks down quickly. Which is clearly evident on the oil pressure gauge.

Its very useless on a stock engine with bolt ons.

My cost on a case is $126, plus shipping and tax. I just picked up some amsoil ZROD.

Just an experiance. I did find some foam the last time I checked the oil before my clutch went. Ive heard that rotella will foam, as it dosent have the anti foam that the Mobil diesel oil has. Maybe its becuase of the new cams... Or bigger turbo.. But I think Im gonna switch to Mobil ESP.