4-Pin Trailer Connector Wiring - 1G DSM

So, I've had a hitch installed for a while now but have only used it for a bike rack hence never needing to install trailer wiring.

This coming weekend I'm hoping to pull a small utility trailer (trailer + contents maybe 500lbs max, if that) with my Laser and was wondering where the best place to hook up the wiring would be and which wires to tap into.

The car is a '92 Laser RS Turbo FWD 5-Speed (1Gb).

Does the harness for the tail/brake lights wrap around from L-R or R-L, or does it come to the back separately from both sides? I'd prefer to run the 4 wires all to one side if I can intercept both sides wiring on one side of the car but will split it if necessary. Also, I took a look and noticed there are 4 wires going into each of the taillight connectors - which of those do what? I don't have my manuals with me at the moment so I can't look at the schematics.

I need the following signals:

- Ground (this is easy)
- Left Brake/Turn
- Right Brake/Turn
- Headlight/Taillight On

When I wired up my 97Caravan.. It required this adapter . somthing about sharing the same ground and shorting out when you hit the brakes and turn signals at the same time.

Weather you need this item... Or just use the wire scematic off it to help you..

Ps I still have mine in a box somewhere if you do need it.

You will need the converter. It allows you to go from seperate brake and turn signals to a single bulb on the trailer

Ya.. What he said.

Brakelight is any of the green wires
Taillights is any of the green/white wires
And the turn signals are whatever arent black at bulb sockets. Sorry I dont have a wiring diagram in front ot me.

Thanks for the info. Will I actually need to send power to it or can I ignore that wire?

If I do need power, what would be the best source?

I have never used one like Jays with the B+ wire. But you can buy them without it. I have installed many like that.

They also have a short life span unless you pay top dollar for one. So new would be my choice. You can probably get one fot $15 usd.

Thanks again for all the info - I'll definitely buy a new one. I just looked it up on the CT website and it shows it without the power wire and just the other 5 wires. Will pick one up on Friday when I'm back in Canada.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/reese-trailer-converter-4-way-0406803p.html#srp

By the way, should I just cut, solder, and heatshrink as I originally planned to do or should I find some sort of probe/piercing connectors and use those? Not sure what is considering the 'best practice' for an install of this sorts.

I think you know the answer..Scotch lock connectors should never be used.

And if you arent going to use the harness that often. I recommend keeping the wiring long so you can keep it clean and dry inside the hatch when not inuse. And just pull it out when needed.

Haha yes, I know the answer but just wanted to make sure! Didn't realize that's what they were called. Good to know.



This is definitely the plan as I doubt I'll be using this too often. It is a FWD though so it doesn't have a fuel pump access door that the AWDs do so I'll have to see where the best location is to run it, if there's any that a large enough opening for the connector to pass through.