Is there any way (just by looking at) to tell the difference between a JDM engine and the standard 4g63 ?

JDM Mitsubishi 4G63 engine valve cover will say, 'Mitsubishi DOHC 16 Valve'.
Stock North American 4G63 engine valve cover will say, '16 Valve DOHC 2000'.
Other then that, I'm pretty sure JDM engines come as a 7-bolt if i'm not mistaken.

JDM engines usually say Mitsubishi on them. They also will often say cyclone on the intake manifold, whether it's a standard manifold or a dual lenght manifold. Most JDM engines are 6 bolts.

My JDM (6-bolt) is a sleeper as I switched out the red mistsu valve cover and tossed the cyclone. So other than an external oil cooler on a 93 Talon then no one would know but even that could be explained as a cooling upgrade mod. So yes a cyclone or mitsu valve cover would be a good indication.

I have a valve that say mitsibushi DOHC 16 valve and the cover is red .
there is a great chance that I may have a JDM in my car. I started investigating after test driving another laser, wasn't near as fast as mine .
thank for the reply guys, you made me a proud DSM owner

JDM engines are NOT fastre than the stock engine per se .


AMin

Francis the red cover could just be a replacement if the original stock one was damaged. The JDM 4G63 other than the cyclone intake is exactly the same as the North American version so the only performance difference would come from how "new" the engine is or its condition. JDM's are not "faster" engines unless it is the GVR4 4G63 with a 16G and 510 cc injectors which is not likely. So yeah what Amin said

JDM is a JOKE!

JDM = JOO a DUMB MOFO.....for spending extra money on on a JDM

The JDM off the Galant VR4-RS has 510cc injectors, big 16G and higher lift cams. I've also heard that it has higher compression than the regular 14B engines 7.8/1.

It will have a Mitsubishi symbol before the lettering "mitsubishi" and on the cyclone intake it will say "eci multi, turbo intercooler"

Vince buying a JDM cause you just watched FnF is not too bright but when you have to replace an engine and put the car back on the road then JDM inc a 14b turbo is called an option

Im so sorry to interupt here and change the subject, but i must know. Vince who the hell is that thumbnail of? You back in the day??

cause if it is, i'd say 10+ on the dew

I second that!

You are right, if I'm looking for a bottom end or even a full engine I'll go for what ever is available (JDM or not).

But a lot of places will try to sell you a JDM engine and charge you more becasue its a JDM :rolleyes: . Some people go out looking for JDM only and brag about their JDM engine :rolleyes: .

JDM engines tend to be more readily available becasue they are required to change their engine every 60,000km's in Japan. So the JDM engines are going to more likley have less km's on the engine. But as far as JDM vs Stock goes there's not much difference.

And the pic is not me, it's one of the moderators on this board... can you guess who?

as for JDM's being more expensive, I have to disagree. I live in New Brunswick, so the import scene is quite small compared to bigger cities. I own a 95 TSi AWD and am doing an engine swap. I paid $1500+ for a 1G engine. The thing is a lemon and I took it back. A friend of mine just got back from Montreal. He bought a JDM engine, tranny, complete wiring harness, computer, and all the plumbing for less than I paid for a POS engine.
Just my $0.02

I have friends that work at Japanese engine places that test them out. Just because they have 60m on them doesnt mean they are in good shape. But i will let you guys know that more often then not they are in great shape. It one of those things you have to take a chance with.

I would basically take a "JDM" engine as simply a used engine. IT's a bit of a crapshoot in exchange for being cheaper/easier than a rebuild.

BTW: That thumbnail is of ME back in the day. (about 15 years ago.. christ. I AM old..)
Now, all you have to do is figure out who the thumbnail under MY name is. Yep.. you ALL know him....

I swapped a JDM into my car, when the stock motor spun a main bearing. The engine I bought was in very good shape, and very clean inside, no crappy colours. It's holding a hell of alot of power too, on stock internals. The only problem I have with the first gen motors, is the lower compression. You'll lose some bottom end power that way with the lower compression, but I'll be building a hybrid this winter, so I'll do with it for this summer.

I think that's PPG .

anyhow...Carry on!

so what IS the difference? Different valve cover and "generally newer"? (4g63t?)

The JDM engine is identical internaly and is a 6 bolt and then they turned into 7's as well. Soem came with a 16g and 510's and the cyclone manifold as well. But a 14b jdm and a 14b N American motor is the exact same crap.

It really surprise's me that guys STILL believe that the Japanese have to do an engine swap after a set amount of KMS. 1st,it was 30000kms,then 60000kms. CRAP,CRAP,CRAP.
ALL JDM engines come from JUNKYARD WRECKS.
Importers can get you the powertrain,,or the complete front clip from the dash forward if the car has been rearended. JDM doesn't mean more power,infact a Cyclone split intake manifold makes less HP. A JDM engine/powertrain has been subjected to an accident of enough force to write off the donor car.
Rebuild your original engine.

Bob, your partly correct, it's years and not miledge for the 'Sha-ken'. It's a Bi-Annual inspection.

But they are not all from wrecked cars. In fact a high percentage of them are simply from vehicles that are no longer cost effective (or much more frequently, assumed that it's costs are going to exceed it's value) to repair to their inspection standards and run.

But for wrecks, the standards for what gets 'written off' in japan vary vastly from what you'd expect here. Very very minor fender damage can lead to a 2 year old car ending up in the scrapper.

It's far more sociological than mechanical. I used to be in the buisness.

Paul

My JDM, although not installed in a car was OBVIOUS that it was a JDM.

Red valve cover
yellow injectors
1990 style external oil to air oil cooler
91+ throttle body
91+ coil pack and ignotor
big 16g
some funky intake snorkel
no EGR (goes with the cyclone manifold)
1990 spline tranny and T-case, with the shifter arms of a 1991+

It's the 1990 & 1991+ differences that make it obvious in my case, aside from the typical stuff people would bolt on.

My Cams have since made a new home with Waldo. The compression is 160 across the board, so unless my motor is fucked up equally, there isn't any more compression in my case.

The amount of pressure in each cylinder has nothing to do with lift and everything to do with duration and timing of the cams. Therefore there is no reason that the car would have any other kind of comp other than normal. This doesn't mean that it wouldn't have different power . IE MORE.

I would like to fix this peice of mis-information

The JDM camshafts doesnt offer any gains of US DSM engines. why or how do I know this ? because its my job ! The JDM cams is the same on the intake as the 1990 US 4g63t only (1991& up are better) the exhuast cams on any JDM (this will get you going) is the same as any "NT" exhaust. shorter duration and lift than any turbo cam.

I guess you can say I spent a little time measuring...

The easiest way to tell if it jdm or not is, The egr valve is where the north american coil pack is. Cyclone intake, Closed off thremostat housing(no opening for coolant is done in the rad) And the cam sensor is totaly diffrent, it has no plug in to it. If you want to see pics I have some of when I did my swap into my lazer. Mine came wiht a 16g evo turbo, And 510 injectors also the lines for a front moutned oil cooler.

Tx for the info "Andrew".

Ghislain.

That "EGR valve" you're referring to is actually a vacuum actuator that flips the butterfly valves to turn on and off the intake runners.

The rad cap is on the rad on any Galant. Most fo the JM 4G63Ts are from Galants. It's not because they're JDM. A JDM eclipse still has the rad cap on the thermostat housing.

Ever look at the cam sensor on a 1990 DSM? Same sensor.

Less ex. lift and duration on just the JDM motors?
Do you have the specs @ .50 thou lift?
That seems stupid but quite typical of these bitsubishis. So in theory there would be quite a gain in increasing them, mainly duration for more ex. to hit the turbine. Another trick for hi-cr motors is to run like 13.5:1 cr then toss in lots of int. lift and duration to bleed off cyl pressure but if it works at 7000 RPM they dont really know..is works at low RPM for puttin around w/o race gas though. All motor or spray cars obviously.

i have the imported jdm 4g63. there's a lot of quirky differences besides the valve cover. oil pressure sender location, etc.

i honestly have no idea if it's a 6 bolt or 7 bolt.

i can take pics if ppl request..

Of course some stuff is different but the internals and mechanical parts are mostly all the same. Whichever is NOT the same, you swap over.

Count the cumber of bolts on the flywheel/flexplate side of the crank. You should figure out the 6 or 7 bolt problem by counting.

tim, isn't there a way to tell by the oil pan as well?

Why in gods name would you want to distiguish if it's a 6 or 7 bolt by the oil pan? Count the bloody bolt holes.

If the tranny is still on the engine and you want to tell if it's a 6/7 bolt you can look at the oil pan right under the timing belt cover, if it dips in it's a 7-bolt, if it bows out it's a 6.

I bought a jdm Last summer from Sunrise in Quebec. I got a 6-bolt in great shape with great compression (non cyclone). It is a gamble and I guess this time I won (for once). It came from a gallant but they threw in everything from the full wiring harness and ecu to the the transfer case and axles, all in pretty good shape I might add.

Wow.. did we check the date of the last post??