Got a call from the shop and he has a problem and I need some help.
I brought in 2 heads one was messed from the guide removal(oops)
The other was an additional spare I had.
He measured the spots where the cams sit, and he said that they are off quite a bit(I forget the measurement). And when he puts a straight edge on it, you can actually rock it back and forth.(This happens with both heads)

He is wondering if when you torque the head down, the cam spots will even out?
He said he has a e-mail into some other places, and wants me to check into it aswell.

Anyone else run into this problem?

both of my spare heads are screwed. FAK me

Got a 3rd head from a local guy and the cam journal was spun on it.
Double fak me...

Mike, will a 7 bolt/2g head do?

I started assembling my bottom end.
Even though my block was align honed I decided to Plasti gauge it anyways.


Then I couldn't believe my eyes, so I decided to do it again. and this fracking happened.



I was on the 3rd step of torquing them down. I did 40, 60, then I flipped it on to 80 and 2 of them started to spin too easily. Finally one cracked. at maybe 65ft lbs?? another one is defiantly stretched.

I want to know HOW THE frack they expected ANYONE to torque those down to 120ft lbs using motor oil, when I cant even get to 80 with the lube...

So
-3 of my heads have been bad,
-my mains have clearance issues,
-and I just broke some arp main studs for no damn reason.
I got another set on the way, but I am thinking of putting this bullshit on hold...

Mike, I am not sure what the torque specs are, but I KNOW it is a lot LOWER with the lube than with motor oil,,,,,

If they are supposed to be 120 with motor oil, they are probably only supposed to be around 80ft.lbs with the lube...

Mike,

I just opened a package to check the torque specs...supposed to be done in three equal steps to SIXTY ft/lbs...

my instructions say 80

are these the main studs or the head studs?

So for the record, they are mains, and looks like i got the wrong instructions in my box. They will be getting a call today.

Somehow, ARP put instructions for 12mm studs into the box with 10mm studs. They are replacing the studs....new ones are on their way to Mike with the CORRECT instructions....

and Ziggy rules.

Plus one!

Well head #4 seemed to be the lucky one....
I am finally making progess. and I am quite broke I hope to have it sitting in the car by the end of the week.











[img]http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t175/II_Sp1kE_II/Front%20end%20Rebuild/IMG_0128.jpg[/img]

My Build Is Looking Good Keep At It Mike And Get Some Paint On That Block

Yes your build is looking good, lol.
Jeff has been my goto msn guru, and a handfull of ideas/parts were his choosing.

The block is painted . its "cast iron" I figure I would stick with its roots.

Its coming along nicely Mike. Keep up the good work

Thanks Rob I hope it pays off

Forgot to mention, that with the new arp's and the right torque on the mains, the plastigauge turned out perfect.

I got the head all assembled tonight, and frost plugs in.
I went to do the timing belt and realized that the G4CS Crank sprocket does not work. I beleive it has the same amount of teeth, but it has a lip on the timing cover side. The SOHC belt is slightly smaller, and this lip does not allow the 4g63/4g64 DOHC belt to sit in there. So I tried to pull the crank sprockets off my original motor, but after 2 hours of hitting it with an impact, and putting all my weight on it with a johnson bar, it would not budge. So for tonight, I am stuck and pissed. Would a 2g crank sprocket happen to be the same as a 1g?

The 1G and 2G sprockets are the same.

Take care of that wiring before you put it in. You'll thank me or curse me later.

he he, thanks Tim I will be yelling your name when I'm doing it . Ps happy birthday.

I made some progress. This sh!t takes longer than I thought.
I ended up cutting off my crank bolt to get the timing sprocket off.



Cam gear timing marks are rotated half a tooth Clockwise to compensate for the 6mm higher deckheight on the g4cs/4g64.(as per a post on tuners) And a DOCH 4g64 timing belt is used.
I just threw on my 2.0 timing cover. The top few bolts need to be left out, again because of the 6mm taller deck height. (I don't think there is a solution for this?)
Also another odd thing I ran into. I wanted to reuse the 2.4 n/t water pipe, and noticed that the mounting bracket for the block is about a half inch closer to the pump. So the oring would not seat fully in the water pump. I notched out the mounting hole to slide the pipe all the way into the pump, and still mount it to the block.

Looks good and clean. Reminds me of mines on the stand except for the forward oil filter.
What did you torque the L19's to ?

Thanks,
I put them to 80. Will that be good?

I did mines to 110 ft lbs with moly the other day. A1's and Felpro 1153-1 . Was at 110 ft lbs last year as well.

If you don't feel comfortable going that high, I would suggest minimum 95 ft lbs.

wholy balonge... 95 it is.

Reza, your nuts.

It's coming together Mike, good to see especially after the few issues you had.

I retorqued the L19's to 100, boy that was nerve racking especially after breaking my mains.
Reza, If I decide to pull the head off one day, have you reused that Headgasket?

And boy, I need a new valve cover... I think I will have to call Mr. Brightside one day...

Hopefully the motor will be in today.

I don't mean to hijack your thread with my pic but I told you it reminds me of mines

Get a new HG if you decide to take it off. The tacky material comes off. You shouldn't reuse a headgasket anyways.

Brings a tear to my eye.

Beautiful builds guys.

Damn I wish I had the cash flow to do this.

I'd love to do a full rebuild of my engine and car...at least the engine bay.

Hahaha, oh man, same engine stand and all, thats freaking great.

Engines in

I didn't notice the fuel rail until now. VERY slick. Are you going to be using the butterflies in the cyclone?

not using the butterflies.
The manifold was made by Jeff White, it was all taken apart, including the end of the plenum, with the butterflies removed and the whole thing was ported.
The second set is going to be activated around 10psi by my megasquirt. so i will only have 450's running while cruising around town.
Last year I tried running all of them all the time but had idle problems. I will see if that is fixed this year.

SO. I am happy I forgot to put in cam seals because when I pulled the valve cover, I noticed I am missing the little cap that gives you access to the oil ports in the head. I checked ALL 3 other heads that I brought to the machine shop along with the parts boxes they gave me back and they were all missing! SUPER pissed.

The little cap ?
I think your talking about the hydraulic lash adjusters oil regulator.

Bingo, that would be it. Now I can feel smart when I call them up. Thx

I'm on a Kiggly HLA
http://www.kigglyracing.com/parts/HLA_Pressure_Regulator.htm

Ah for sh!t sakes Reza I may have to, just to keep our builds looking like twins.
Only difference, I will probally run a 12.9 or some garbage. Being I found out that the machine shop that did the work on my motor does FP's motors. GUH

So after a frusterating month.
-I got a new pan to fix an oil leak.
-My stainless oil feed acted as a ground when my starter grounded out, and melted the rubber on the inside. so I got a new one.
-My balance shaft plug leaked
-And now I think I figured out my shitty idle, I pulled my manifold to fix an exhaust leak, and port 3 and 4 were wet with fuel. So I am pretty sure my injectors are leaking.
-On the plus side I took her for a little rip and 9psi feels great I wonder what 30 will feel like.

Next step is injectors + etest...
Then it is time to spank leclerc

Anyone got a good working set of 390's?

Taking tips from Christine huh?!?!?!

Lovin' it! LMAO