Ya it is marked with whiteout

So when you rotate the cams by hand does everything line up? Crankshaft sprocket and cams.

yupp, and the dowels on the cams are pointing upwards.

Make sure your logger isn't plugged in while you're setting the timing or it will lock the ISC instead of the timing. In any case, you should still see the marking whether or not the ECU has control. The only time I saw it way off was with the CAS 180 out, it was jumping all over the place but still visible. Does your timing light have any adjustment on it?

ok, I will check to make sure that wire is not grounded. the plug is cut, so maybe that wire is touching the center console or something.

Another thought. I converted to a 91+ CAS plug. If the cam and crank trigger wires got flippes, would the car still run, and cause this problem?

And yes, my light is adjustable

Besides that stuff, I think the #1 spark must happen at the same time in the cycle for it to run properly, so clamping to #1 you should still expect to see the mark on the crank pulley. Unless the pulley is separated and spun, but that should be obvious..

Make sure the light is set to 0 and the procedure should be by the book. You could adjust the offset and see if that brings the marking around, if anything it could give a degree number to think about.

ok. Thanks Rob.

It is actually a Fluidampr unit. I checked the fluidampr against a stock pully, incase it was from a different car or something, but the marks line up fine..


I will play with it tonight.

If for whatever reason you still can't seem to get it, perhaps try this method out:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...ng-without-using-lower-timing-cover.html

Got the timing set I was on the wrong plug wire.... i shoulda took the cover off see what assuming gets you

I must have a vaccum leak somewhere, I get idle surge when warm.

Anyways. I got the car in for an alignment, after 2years..? of the new front end stuff being on the car.





WOO HOO front end is now tight as hell. feels so good.






Oh, and she takes off liek a god damn rocket

Looking good

I have an extra set of eclipse tails i might be willing to part with if you want a nicer looking center section. And they are black also

If you want to bring her by oneday we could hook up a boost leak tester and find that leak.

humm, details on these tails?

If I cannot get my compressor out of the shed, I will let ya know



I also took the car for a quick drive after tightening my motor mounts, its getting more and more fun to drive every day...
I got a handfull of complements on the car aswell, with it coated in dust...

anytime.. well anytime on weekends that is.

I am in love again
Took er out last night, and drove it to work today (30min highway)
Although the night before the throttel got stuck in a 30km/h... worst feeling EVER! when your car goes WOT and you do not expect it.

I forgot to mention, the idle surge issue seems to be because of the TPS idle switch in the Q45 TB.

Also something to note on the Q45 TB, that the built-in idle switch will actually invert when adjusted too far one way.
So it is possible for the switch to be grounded while the throttle is open, and become ungrounded when the plate is closed.

Had that happen on my Spyder when I first got it, taking off at a light the spring broke, not fun but sure gets you puckered, lol.

Car is lookin sexy man!

Nice! Car's looking sexy!

That is scary for sure.

Had it happen to me inbetween shifts on the highway at WOT. Beach was bouncing off the rev limiter.

Got me clenching my ass cheeks pretty hard.

LOL!

Car passed etest this weekend.
2.4L with 272 hks profile cams.


Little FYI on "Hot Rod Etest"

2 years ago I had tried getting the car tested as a "Hot Rod"
Which it failed. The tech inputed that it had a 2.4L motor after I gave my story where the block came from, etc.

Fast forward to this past weekend, I had the test done at a buddys work place. He said he could not set it up as a "Hot rod"
I was kind of like wtf....??

But to my suprise when the page was printed, it listed the motor size as 2.4L.
So when the tech at the one shop inputted 2.4L 2 years ago, it kept record of that change to my VIN. (No need for the drive clean tech's to set the motor size every time it needs testing.)

It may be basic knowledge, but I thought I would share.



Also:
The water to air setup is effing amazing, Even with the little core.
I was doing lots of pulls last night, boosting over and over again.
I parked the car, everything was burning to the touch under the hood.
The center section where the water flows through on the intercooler, i could lay my cheek on it was so cool!!!
I wish I had air temp logs!

Mike, I am trying to walk through your compound turbo setup, let me know if I have this right.

Exhaust manifold -> 16g hot side -> hy hot side -> exhaust

hy cold side -> fmic -> 16g cold side -> water/air intercooler -> intake


As for your current setup I love it!! I was always told that water is a terrible idea for a DD but it seems that is not the case, wish I had learned that before, definitely would have taken that route!

Hi Bryan,
I don't actually have the compound setup on it currently (because of converting back to stock ecu/maf to get it running) I will switch back when I can get Link and switch to SD.

BUT it goes like this:

Exhaust manifold -> 16g hot side -> hy hot side -> exhaust

Manifold wastegate Dump to -> exhaust between 16g and HY hot side
Second wastegate -> from between 16g and HY -> atmosphere


Intake -> Hy intake -> Hy cold side out -> 16g inlet -> 16g coldside out -> water to air -> intake mani.

It is a bit to get your head around and people often say that it will destroy the little turbo pushing compressed air into the inlet, but this is the way the diesel guys have been doing it for years.
I believe the DSM stock converter Auto record was just set with a compound setup at the shootout.


The "front mount" is actually the heat exchanger for the water to air setup.
It gives you much more room up front, and a MUCH shorter charge pipe route.

I don't see any downside for the water to air setup, other than there is a pump and liquid involved...
No different than your coolant system, but the pump in this one is electrical, is only 50$ if it fails, and only takes 15min to replace....

Oh wow, all the water to air setups I had seen had small heat exchangers, that one is very impressive. I have some research to do on the water to air setup it seams.
Was looking at this one, looks interesting.

Ahh that is the tri-turbo compound setup on the new BMW diesels isn't it?

I have been trying to figure that out for a bit... pretty complex/crazy.

Little update.
I ditched the megasquirt for good, and got a replacement engine bay harness.

I got an EVO 8 flashable ECU.
I just finished 98% of an adapter harness.

3 times the fun means 3 times the price

And sweet! I've heard of people swapping in the Evo 8 ECU but have never seen it done. Interested to see how it performs.

How does it compare to DSM 99 flashable ECU?

I am not too sure, I am just getting into the flash world. I know the processors are different so you can't use the code/definitions from one another. But it sure seems there is a much bigger community for the EVO ecu's.

Maybe someone's could chime in?

UNREAL!!

So from driving the car a bit during last fall there was too much blow by for my liking. I tore the engine down and got some new rings to tighten up the gap.

I just got her started last weekend, figured I would go play in the snow quick, and run her up the road.
The car is still running on the stock ECU for now, it is a bit rough at idle, but should be good until the rings get seated.

here is another:

Crank the boost up and do some hard pulls. That is all it takes to seat the rings, and is the only method I use now. 10 minutes and I'm done breaking in a motor. No wimpy driving around town till the rings seat BS

Here here.

I beat the piss out of my motor on wastegate boost for the first 50kms, drain the oil, then up to 25psi afterwards for the next 500kms. Drained the oil. Been over 30psi daily ever since.

Nice! I noticed the more you beat the living daylights out of it from the get go, the stronger it is and less oil it consumes

Well heck yes. How do you think we break in fresh diesel engines?

Throw a load in the box and go for a drive.

I am a little scared to crank the boost way up with the 2.4L motor running on stock ecu still. But I guess I will just keep my eye on the wideband. I will take her out on the next semi-dry day.

Bravo!!!!!
Drive it like you stole it and there's 4ks of cocaine in the trunk!!
Btw, use shitty oil as well. No use wasting your money on full synthetic when you're only using it for 50km

Yeah I am a firm believer in dont go with full synthetic for break in. Let that happen with good old fashioned oil then make the switch over. I am at my switch point with my engine 5000 kms and I have had 3 oil changes so far one withing first warm up then dump then one at 2k and next one is soon at 5k then time to make the switch

As my luck would have it, the shitty oil I used in the car for that bit of fun, ended up all over the garage floor over the course of a week, thanks to a not so tight oil drain plug....

Oil change #1 complete

Well, as long as it gets done.
Side note. Does anyone use those magnetic drain plugs?