Looking at some diagrams of the braking system in a 2g, seems pretty straight forward to rid of that 20 pound hydraulic unit in the front quarter.

It seems I have to split both outlets on the master cylinder.

One out split for front right and front left. The other is split, to go into the proportioning valve, which then goes to the rear.

Question is, what does this thing do on our cars. By definition, it can raise or lower pressure.

Should I keep it or is it safe to just eliminate it?

This is all for the sake of a clean as possible re tubing effort.

Second question is, what can I buy to split the lines thats gonna make a clean job, and WHERE to look for these things.

I could go to home depot, looking for more of a professional solution here. Some stainless braided lines are obvious, what about all in between?

Suggestions, and experience welcomed

EDIT, just realized how long its been since I was a gear head. I did this to both my 1g's, and for the life of me, cant remember a f'in thing. Lay off the weed children

Not from experience but I think I read before that you just use a non-ABS valve to eliminate the brain.

Dugh, (face palm)

Thanx, I'll start searching for some parts in the Mitsubishi links pages.

I've been thinking about doing this too. Are there any aftermarket options for the non-ABS prop valve? It's getting harder to find the 1G ones in reasonable shape.

Buy it new
https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=17101&cat=748&page=1

Holy sh!t, Ziggy has everything.

I had no idea the new ones were so cheap!

I like the idea of the aftermarket ones that can adjust front / rear, but probably just one more thing to break.

If you happen to be into adjustable proprtioning valves: Link

Anyone here used that or another adjustable prop valve on a DSM?

Would you not need 4 of those as opposed to just the one 1g valve?

Just by looking at the 1g valve, it looks like the two out puts of the master cylinder go into the front of the proportioning valve, and then on the sides, comes out the four brake corners.

The 1g valve, two stainless braided lines from the master into the valve, and some pipe bending and magic to finish the job with stock tubing feeding all four corners.

Seems like it would look professional, and perform, if some care and time is taken.

Im sold on the 1g valve.

I also wanted to know if I upgrade to lets say the cobra brakes, would an adjustable proportioning valve be necessary to properly feed them?

I did this to my 1G about 8 years ago and I have to do it again to a differen't car. Can't even remember how I went about it lol. Pretty sure I got a bunch of the lines and valve off a mint ESI with no ABS I found in the wreckers. Made it really easy.

Doesn't really seem necessary from what Ive found. Stock 1g valve looks like the best solution.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...g-valve-brakes-paging-todd-tce-like.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/handling-tech/137335-adjustable-brake-proportioning-valve.html

This would be the way i would go if my 2g didn't come already done.

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/stm_dsm_1g_abs_delete_kit.htm

Nice, pretty much what I had pictured in my head.

Figure it out and sell me a kit

I picked up a used valve off a club member this week. I'll let you know what I do with the lines when I get there Jeff.

I can bring in those kits from STM if there is interest....

I have interest in various stainless lines. Are those something u can peice together from a hydraulic parts vendor locally?

could probably be done, but doubt the quantity would justify it. The brake kits I would bring in from STM. I have another guy who does brake lines, but he doesn't work with -an at all, just with the inverted flares and banjos.

I'll do some shopping around and report my findings here

Well, if there's some interest on the STM kits - ill definitely be on board with it.

If not, no biggie. I'll still get one since its pretty much bolt on affair.

I have a couple of the STM 2g kits here WITHOUT the proportioning valves, lines only...I am looking into bringing in some complete kits.

Also, I believe these only include lines for the FRONTS, NOT for the rears...

Hold onto one of those kits for me please. Thanks

Here's a guys selling a complete set on the vr4 board

http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Board=UBB1&Number=1036935&Forum=,All_Forums,&Words=&Searchpage=1&Limit=25&Main=1033485&Search=true&where=&Name=&daterange=&newerval=&newertype=&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post1036935

Got the valve from Adam. Just need some lines now

I have the 2g line kits in stock.....$180. + taxes.

You could count on me for taking a full 2g STM kit if you bring a few in.

I'll take the line kit Ziggy, just need to figure out a few more parts on my list before I make the trip to you. What to do with my crankshaft among other things is holding me up. Please sit on it for me

Do you mean a line kit for ABS removal on a 2G?

Yeah, that's what he means.

Right now I have the line kits only for 2g, WITHOUT the proportioning valve. For 1g, I have the proportioning valves, but no line kits.

Right now, I have complete kits (WITH proportioning valve) on order. I have ordered just one 1g kit and one 2g kit for stock. If anyone wants one FOR SURE, let me know, I will try to get it added to the order.

Well, it took forever, but I FINALLY have a couple of these complete kits (with lines and proportioning valves) in stock. Price is $277.10 + shipping and tax.

Anyone tried one of these STM kits on a 2G?

I could only find one one Install thread pointing to this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuB5VwLAQKU

The lines look too long and pretty messy to me. Wondering whether its better to just bend hard lines instead.

Any experience?

I have sold a couple, but not sure if they are installed yet, so maybe those guys will chime in. STM now also has (at our request) similar kits that include REAR lines...the earlier ones didn't. I will be bringing some of those in soon...

The lines are long, the driver side I was able to look pretty neat by running it behind the brake booster and out.

The passenger side makes a small loop under my relocated battery tray and down.

I would recommend the ss lines, but as you pointed out, they are on the long side. You can kill a lot of the length by doing a 'tidy' run out of it, especially on the driver's side. The passenger side didn't turn out as nice as I would have liked. I seem to recall reading on tuners that the lines were made to fit a 3000gt, which is wider than our cars (I'm assuming).

When I'm back out there, I'll try to remember my camera and take a few pictures of what I did.

Thanks Andrew, big help!! That pretty much confirms what I was thinking. It seems like a good kit if you want to replace your lines anyway, and it's 95% of the way there but not quite perfected.


Ziggy, my feedback to them would be to provide the *minimum* that's required to delete the ABS. Right now they're providing alot more than many of us need. I've already got SS lines at all four corners and I prefer hard lines to "soft" lines anyway. The non-ABS prop valve with pre-bent hardlines would be much more valuable to me. My $0.02

I can provide that feedback...but it took FOREVER to even get them to make the rear lines....so not sure if or how quickly they will react.

I am guessing there would be big resistance to pre-bent hard lines because of shipping issues...

I'm resurrecting an old post.

A while back I decided I wanted to convert all my brake lines to stainless braided. One solution was the STM kit, but for starters, that's just the front lines and also their lines go right to the caliper.
The problem with this is:
- you don't really have a proper attachement point at the shock
- you'd have to replace the flex lines at the caliper (which in many cases would already be upgraded stainless braided).

The line kit I'm putting together retains the flex lines at the calipers (in my case aftermarket stainless braided, though they'd work the same for stock rubber). I've already got the lines for the front brakes and the lines that go to/from the master cylinder to the prop valve. They're now installed on my 2g. I've just ordered the ones for the rear lines. They should be in a couple of weeks.

After I install everything and see how it all fits (line lengths, etc) we (meaning RTM) may offer such a kit for sale. Initially it would just be for 2g's since we don't have a 1g to work with. We'll keep you posted.

The length issue is something Im facing now with the STM kit. It looks as though you would almost need two clips on the knuckle to secure the line in two spots because of the extra length.

I have zip ties as a temp solution in the spot where I think the extra point on the knuckle for fastening needs to be.

See attached pics.

On a side note, does RTM carry the OEM flex brackets for the lines which fasten to the threaded holes on the knuckle? If so Id take 4 pcs.





Heres a shot of the STM kit in the engine bay.

I'd offer up my car for 1G fitting. That being said, braided lines flex...hard lines don't.

I have to agree. A replacement SS braided flex line is far better then the rubber reinforced stockers. But to replace hard lines with braided hoes would be a downgrade other then apperance althought a extra long braided line wrapped aroud all sorts of things under the hood doesnt really add to apperance. IMO....

Yes, for sure it's not a performance mod. It's also not really an appearance mod since you can't really see them. (By the way, my lines are sized to pretty much exact length, so I've got no extra to have to loop). I guess I'd call it a convenience/preventative maintenance mod. The idea begin that there's no need to worry about hard lines rusting or flare nuts rusting or stripping. All fittings are commonly available, replaceable -3AN (which are completely separate from the lines, unlike flare nuts which are intergral).

Certainly, not all cars have problems with rusting brake lines, but my 2g (which I would call average for the year for underbody rust) has a fair amount of rust on the rear hard lines. Rusting brake lines are not unusual for cars that live their lives in this area of the world (s. Ontario).

My bad. If you lines fit to lentgh then i guess its a ok mod. I was refering to everyone else's lenght issues.

I think the reason Paul resurrected this post is because he wants to deal with the length issue. We got the STM lines in, and the feedback was that they are NOT ideal. Paul decided on his own to modify his own car in such a way that he can replace the rusty hard lines with easy to work with braided stainless, and yet maintain the independent flex lines to the caliper at the corners. He suggested we might want to offer this as a kit once he has his own fitted and has worked out the bugs.

I believe the idea is going to be just to offer this as another alternative. I think a lot of the pre-bent OEM lines are discontinued, and we already carry the "EZ bend" hard lines.

That car is looking great though
Super Clean I love it

Another revival because I cannot find anything for where the brake lines go from a 1g non abs prop valve to the master cylinder on my 2g

The reason I am confused is I only see install pictures and details got a 2g non abs prop valve whereas I am using a 1g...thw difference is the 2g valve has the master cylinder ports on the bottom corners vs this 1g valve having the master cylinder ports on the front

Are you trying to find out the routing of all the lines or just master to prop valve?