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On my quest to clean up engine bay I cut snip relocated things and finally last night I thought all done.
Until the final inspection and I found a loose wire and no written tab to go along. Cant figure out what this sucker was plugged to.

1995 gsx driver kick panel fusebox..unmount it and on reverside (back)
On the top there is a yellowish plug.
The 4th pin from left to right is a thicker gauged black wire with white stripe going down it. Pretty long too so not even sure where I would have snipped it.
Could it be a ground?

appears to have blown ign switch fuse. So it must be that. Tried grounding it. Bad idea.

HELP!

Sounds like an accessory power feed not a ground.

possibly an IGN feed, it could of been feeding your ABS computer.

* EDIT...thought I saw a white stripe on that wire*

Grounds are usually just black. Anything with a stripe or tracer usually is a power.

Definitely white stripe. As I mentioned I grounded it to shortly find out blew out the 30amp fuse in engine fuse panel corresponding to ign switch.

Disconnected and voila no more burnt fuse. Only issue is where does it go. I had no written tab on it and I cant recollect doing one either. Makes me believe it perhaps isn't hooked up to anything. As I did cut out many many things. But when I went to crank car it didn't ignite. Due to possible other issues but that wire still haunts me. Just want to make sure is all.

Do any of the fuses in that box not have power? Is the wire powered all the time or just when the key is turned on? If I had to guess it probably goes to the ignition switch.

I think I replied to your post on DSMTuners Dio, that picture look familiar.

I'll go and check my harness in a bit but black/white is ignition power in these cars.

Yes it for sure is as I did ground it. Then cranked car and when it hit ign in key switch bam!! Fuse gone!
Good thing is that when I disconnected it and cranked car over no issues then.
The wire is about 2-3 feet long so I must have snipped either in passenger side of car or in fender well in driver side and that wire could have gone under rad to other side of car. Point is wherever I cut from, that wire was teed or tapped into something away from steering column.

ill check when I get home from work if there is power with or without ignition to that wire.
Its probably something so obvious right under my nose. But after so many snips cuts and rats mess wires.
I rather be sure by tracing and asking for help.

It's ignition power, black/white wires in 2Gs have power with the key in the run position.

I'll check this out in a little bit now once I get the little one down.

Can you get me a high quality picture of that plug Dio?

I don't have that wire in my harness (keep in mind I've removed A LOT of wiring).

If i am reading the fsm correctly.( it is written by a 5 year old) that black and white is the feed to your power transistor and many other things under your hood. Best get your meter and make sure you have all your powers to each component.

im uploading pics right now...give me few

front

Looks like it and I don't have that one, yikes!

Dio, does your car start right now?

EDIT: From reading Dio's posts, his car starts and runs so it cannot be the wire feeding the Transistor, as that same wire splits off to feed the coil, fuel pump relay, etc. Plus said connector is 18 pins from my count and B-63 (feeds the transistor, etc) is 22 pins.

it cranks now but doesn't run now. I wasn't really trying to over crank car right now.

Has ran in past but since this project started no it hasn't.

transistor wires were cut. Perhaps this wire fed into transistor... However, there are 2 wires look above that look same as this one out of transistor connector. Which one does this one feed?

Also the transistor body I have not grounded yet as I have not decided how I am going to do it. Couple ideas but for all intents and purposes ill just put a bolt and nut trough hole and ground loop that.

Let me know if that sounds like a plan?

Gotta love dsms!!

Alright, I have Mr. FSM here with me now.
That wire does not relate to the transistor or any of the engine ignition powered electrical.

That connector is B75 front wiring harness and junction block combination.
I have not yet tracked down the wire in question but I believe it relates to something I have deleted (ABS, AC, etc). Give me a bit more time, I'm looking through the FSM now.

BAM!

Pin 4 on B75 runs to pin 4 on A40 which is your generator/alternator relay! Which explains why I don't have it, I have a 1 wire alternator.

really??? I have a Saturn 1 wire set up too!!

SO I can clip that sucker out a there?

That could explain the length. It must have gone through the driver side harness into fender wheel well to the alternator that way. I decided to run a few wires in there so I pulled fender thingy apart and voila. I must have not had need for it and just clipped it off there. Simply forgot to label the sucker is all.

Now on to cranking this puppy over and get er running.
Wonder why not started the other night.

I didn't want to crank too much is all.

I got to check I guess spark, fuel to make sure Im good in all cyl's.

Weird though.. this car usually cranks over pretty easy...hmmm..

Maybe batt is down a bit.

Good call Anthony! I see it now. Wow no wonder most of you guy's hate wiring DSM's those diagrams are sh!t. Looks like that wire used to go to the Alt relay that was mounted near your left headlight.

ok got in car with everything connected and cranks very nice but I couldn't help to notice I couldn't here my beautiful fuel pump. I checked all spark plugs and they bone dry after giving very good cranks. checked wire going to fuel pump and no current with fuel pump on through link v3. so now I have to see if I have a wire gone wrong somewhere. I hear the relay clicking by passenger side clicking on and off but no pump.

ideas\??

im in garage now.

6478364446 any ideas are welcome.

when your MPI relay clicks does your MIL (CEL) light come on.

hard wired fuel pump and we got action going on.
in other words something between computer and fuel pump no good.
checked continuity on the famous 20amp fuse#4 ON engine fuse panel.
fuses all seem good.

I put power to fuel pump and voila. so the other thing I am thinking is that due to coil on plug I know there were 2 wires that had to be reversed cas plug. I know the transistor had blu blk wire I had to plug into harness. perhaps I have to reverse those wires?

or who knows. tracing right now to see if I have left something un done.

Yup, not needed.



I've seen worse diagrams before believe me. These are just tricky too read. For the record, transistor and what not is feed from the interior fuse box, front plug, middle far right (looking at the box) B75. It plugs in there and then through the dash harness and then to the ECU harness.



If you've got no power at the fuel pump relay I'd check that first.

Couldn't you use link to activate your pump to rule out that relay? With your ignition turned to the on position, you can just listen for the pump to power on.

Yes I can and thought I had mentioned in upper post.
YOu can most certainly turn on pump through link as you can the fans per say. When I do so I hear the relay but no action in pump. I know pump is good and so is the feed to relay but somewhere in between somethings up.

My thoughts from past experience when I had broken wires on the cas was that when I had a bad ground and broken wire from ecu think yellow wire going to cas plug my fuel pump wasn't working then either. I think its the rotation of the cas that fires up the fuel pump. So what I will do tonight is check continuity between ecu wires pin 88, 89 and corresponding crank and cam sensors. If that is good then there is power and ground on both.
Ill start there and see.

Either way yes powered the fuel pump through link and relay clicks but from there on in nothing happens.

Im sure its something slightly overseen. Well at least I hope.
Car does crank over very nice just no fire. Spark plugs bone dry!

If the relay is like a 1g. There are actually 2 relays inside the housing. The ignition cycles one to power up the ecm then the ecm controls the one. You can pop the cover and close the relay with your finger and see if the cel and pump cycle. Good sign off bad caps or poor wiring.

Sounds like there is power and ground to the relay and if it's clicking then the input is fine. Output is the issue.

Could still be A faulty input like the Cas not telling the ECM to turn on the half of the relay

yeah I had to deal with this monkey business before. In order to eliminate all things I hard wired ecu to cam and crank in engine bay, cam is a green top 4 wires the other plug is a 3 prong that has 2 wires that were inverted due to the coil on plug set up.

Either way I had a direct ground, direct power on both, then ecu feeds and voila, she started!

When I traced issue found factory plug losing current from one side of plug to other.. COULDNT believe my eyes!!
Snipped the plug out and connected all back up and vroom!
Away I went.

Now I have no idea. Could be many small stupid things so in order to rule out. Ill hard wire all, then turn cas with hand to see if fuel pump kicks in. Last time it scared me coz spark is also generated and well... use your imagination... lol.

If anyone has handy the following:

cam and crank sensor wiring:


2g dsm transistor wiring pin out

Fuel pump wiring too.

If you have makes life easy so I can just print and follow.
I will keep all informed.

Thank you

diagram above shows what I think I used before.

We good on that one right?

No input from me, never put a 1G CAS in a 2G (though I'd like to).

well its kinda what was already in car when I bought it. My plugs and harness were just hacked up so bad that I got tired of fixing so I did what I did instead. Now I just have to make sure all grounds and power leads are ok. And sensors have proper signals going and we set. Just got home so ... Ill go out in a bit

Not that I am an expert.... but isn't the CAS mod in a 2g needed when you.put a 1g engine or 6 bolt in? Why would anyone go through the hassle of putting a CAS on an engine that already has provision for a cam and crank sensor?

yes I have a 6 bolt in there.
Good observation

Then just by the the proper harness set your your settings in Link and be done with it.

ok need transistor wiring pin out and home free

Found this on another site. Looks to be pretty accurate.

Connectors are named by the number of pin slots available whether there is a pin there or not. The pin numbering is then 1 through the highest pin slot number, in this case 8. This makes it easier to identify the pins especially when some identical connectors can have different pins missing. You also then always know what the highest pin number is.

Stock (2g) 8 pin connector wire colors:
pin 1: blue-black (output to fire cyl 2,3 coil's primary)
pin 2: brown-red (input from ECU to fire cyl 2,3)
pin 3: black (ground)
pin 4: white (tach output to ECU and gauge)
pin 5: unused
pin 6: larger black-white (+12V from ignition switch)
pin 7: black-blue (input from ECU to fire cyl 1,4)
pin 8: black-white (output to fire cyl 1,4 coil's primary but leaves coil as blue-red going to single pin "engine speed detection connector", then from there to pin 8 here as black-white)

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