Relocated the battery behind the codriver seat and I am wonder what guys who have done the relocation have rigged up for the 4 large gauge battery cables in the engine bay.

Figure I am going to bend some metal to mount to the frame rail and use a grommet in it to mount all 4 cables to. Just wonder what others have done.

D.

I think most guys run one wire into the bay and then have a junction block, and by most I mean everyone I have ever talked to or everything I have ever seen has been done like that.

I have a cable run to engine bay... it is stupid fusible link that is kinda causing me some greif to hook up to a junction block... I want it to be field accessible yet securely mounted in the car... I have seen a couple ghetto things online that I am not going to trust in a rally car....

I am thinking of just bending some metal covering it in some heavy duty tape tossing a grommet in it to pass a bolt trough for the electrical components and mounting in the engine bay...

The fusible links that I looked at always had two bolts for mounting and two bolts for power in and out.
As long as you build yourself a bracket and mount it to the firewall it should be pretty secure.

I connected the battery cable to the wires in the engine bay by putting a bolt and nut holding them together then covered it in electrical tape. Given, 2G's only have about two or three wires there, not an entire fuse box.

Also, if you need to have a kill switch, keep in mind you will also need to wire the alternator straight to the battery.

Don't do that. Its a hack.

$20 will get you a power post.
http://www.vteworld.com/content/electromech/PDP/html/770Series/770Series.php

Nothing like having the right tools for the job

Been researching on this alot as i just bought a new red top battery and trying to be proactive as i hope to run a sub amp and double din head unit soon

hope this helps and also clears up some questions for me aswell

The way i plan to relocate my battery is

1) Run a 0/1 guage wire from the battery in the trunk to the engine bay, with a fuse (not sure what type/size/etc ) prior to the wire exiting the cabin and entering the engine bay

2) I will splice off a distribution block with 2 4 guage outputs in the trunk for the amplifier

3) Run an unfused ditribution block in the engine bay with the 0/1 guage input and 4 4 guage outputs for the alternator, fuse box and starter

4) ground from battery to a safe spot in the trunk and ground cables in engine bay i will most likely mount to a vacant hole on the engine mount (the one close to the transmission and quarter panel)

Please advise me though if i missed anything as i am sure i have and am hoping someone can chime in and fill the blanks

Also does the redtop optima need to be in an enclosed and vented box?

Manny do what Derek is doing and grab a fusible link, 180 seems to be the norm.

The fusible link is supposed to be close to the battery. In case of impact and the wire is severed between the battery and the fusible link the fuse can do its job of de-energizing the live cable.

My red top is in the vented moroso battery box. It's not a dry cell battery.

My red top is in the box, but with no vent tube. They are a sealed cell battery so they don't need to be vented.

I'll pick up a battery post some time later this year to clean it up.

Where would I find this 180 fusible link would be great if you could post a picture or link to a picture of exactly what it looks like as when i search im getting a multitude of variations

Also to add to this i am debating replacing all the power wires and grounds with new 4 guage wire

Something like this

http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/jafros2gbatteryshit-v2-jpg.107939/

Jafro used a circuit breaker and a fuse on the alternator wire because if the engine is still running and something happens to that wire the alternator will still be sending power down it. The same reason you have a breaker or fuse close to the battery.

i read something on either dsmtalk or dsmtuner about being carefull with fuses or breakers in certain spots of the circuit as when starting the car the spike from the starter would cause issues and the varying current from the alternator as with a system fluctuations are apparently drastic enough to trip the fuse/breaker unneedingly

I got these two when I did mine.

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CQ23KC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ITN38XG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Doing a 100amp breaker from the battery to the alternator using 4 gauge wire.

My build thread has pictures of my breaker setup, or should at least.

Better to put in a disconnect it can handle the amps and if you are working on the alt or starter or anything electrical under the bonnet you can turn it off easily.
Duralast/Master Disconnect Switch is like 20 bucks. Just my .02 was beat to it

We need a vented sealed box box (morose) behind the co driver seat with a 1awg running to a kill switch on the dash with an alternator kill http://www.ompamerica.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_38_81/products_id/155

Then into the engine bay via a firewall with isolated through stud http://www.allstarperformance.com/product.htm?prod=525 all with 1awg.

If I get around to it I will make a mount on Saturday and take some pics.

D.

Here's a picture I was looking for to explain why venting is necessary.



One of the 4 optima red top batteries I've owned, that failed, was hissing from that relief port.

I wouldn't like that to happen inside the trunk, which is basically the cabin.

Just my opinion though.

Well then. I will be hooking up the vent plug. Thanks for showing me though. Now to find the vent tube/plug.

I'll post a pic of mine after work today.

Ok for anyone who cares... here is what I did... I took some scrap metal laying around maybe 6 inches long by 4 inches across trimmed it up bent it to a 90 and drilled a large whole in on side, covered it in heavy 4inch electrical tape (just in case) and inserted a grommet... in the gromet want a bolt and on the top side of the bolt attached the 3 1awg cable...

This will attached an existing bolt whole near where the battery was on the frame rail/shock tower... all seem to work fairly well so far... I will have picture later if anyone is interested...

Yeah post up some pictures!!

For those interested here is a picture of the bracket... simple piece of bent metal with some holes and a bushing... covered in the wide heavy duty electrical tape... Red wire come from the OMP kill switch in the cabin via a firewall isolator...