Awesome

Technically, the next step would be do to a proper fuel pressure test. That would tell you if it's the pump or regulator.

I would guess it's the regulator, but as I said a while back you might want to squirt some penetrating oil on the fuel sending unit studs in your trunk. If you ever end up taking it out, you'll be happy you started soaking them now.

You need a fuel pressure tester. And the banjo bolt adapter for your fuel filter. Dont be scared of the fuel pump worse case you break all the studs if they arent already. Spray em like Jeremy said.

A question. With how much pressure would fuel pour out of the line from the line to the fuel rail? And where exactly is the fuel pump? Is it near the left side of the trunk near the end? Cuz I did see a black cover there but the battery holder is on top of it. I will change the regulator and hope that's what the issue is. I've changed the fuel pump in my 89 ford Probe myself and it wasn't so hard. I will get the fuel sending unit from Rtm also.

The pump is under the cover in the trunk.

No need to spend money on a new sending unit unless you really want to, just drill yours out and put in a bulkhead if that's the route you really want to go.

As Jeremy said soak them, I broke 4 out of the 6 on mine and it's been a headache since.

Maybe someone has there old fuel pressure regulator laying around, I would give you mine but it's with someone else that was having similar issues.

You can also spend a little money and get an adjustable fuel regulator, and throw a gauge on that, especially if you ever plan on upgrading the pump in the future.

I got some stock fuel pressure regulator's kicking around. Pm me if you want.

I wanna get a new one cuz it looks amazing lol. And yes I do want to upgrade in the future.

Well the cars not gonna b driven this winter. I was planing on working on it and upgrading it slowly and bring it on the road this summer. I will upgrade both the fuel pump and the regulator.

Again I want to thank you all for ur time and help. This has been a nice welcome to the dsm world. Do u guys meet anywhere?

May want to change the fuel filter before the pump.

Tried that today and the hard line Wudnt budge. Got an oem from Rtm.

We had 3 meets this last summer, as long as people are motivated they do happen.

If you are going to do the upgrade I would go aftermarket filter with -6 from pump to rail. Nice easy upgrade.

Bad news guys. I got a fpr from roman and even after putting that one in the car struggles to start. I still have to clamp the return line to start it and keep it on. If I disconnect the car struggles to stay alive, rpms go low and the car wants to die if I give it gas it bogs and backfires.

That would then suggest that you're not getting enough fuel from the pump. A proper fuel pressure test can confirm that.

May want to change the fuel filter before the pump. Even a fuel pump test assumes a non clogged filter.

When it's clamped up its fine other then running hella rich and exhaust reeking of gas. I'm just gonna get an adjustable fpr and do the fuel filter and pump at the same time.

Shud I get bigger injectors while I'm at it too? And with these mods done can I raise the boost a little more safely or would I need other mods?

John makes a good point; you might want to start with the filter alone. A pump may not be necessary.

If you want to start modifying, I suggest starting with some proper tuning software. You'll need some way to control your fuel before going to larger injectors. I'll let the guys with DSMLink chime in, but the first step would be getting the ECU socketed.

Definitely get the car running before other mods! Changing injectors now is not a good idea.

How did you try getting the filter's hard line off? Did you do the two wrench trick?

I unplugged the mass and the car started without the return being clamped. I plugged it back in and the car wanted to die and sputters. So I think it's the mass

I borrowed a line wrench from a neighbor and I sprayed penetrating fluid on the hard line on the fuel filter. I'm gonna have a crack at it tomorrow. Cars too hot rite now I had it running for a bit trying to figure the issue. Which I think is the mass air flow sensor.

Try with a second wrench on the filter in a way that when you squeeze the wrenches together it loosens the flare nut.

I was thinking it sounded like a MAFS or ECU problem too but then saw you were on to something with the fuel pressure. Hopefully it's the MAFS, much easier!

Ah that makes sense

Thats why you to do a proper fuel pressure test. Unplugging the maf just puts ecm into a limp home mode. It is not a diagnostic procedure to unplug stuff and see if it runs. Test the fuel pressure if it is in spec. Move on to the next step.

Where is the fuel pressure supposed to be at? And how do I perform this test?

1g base fuel, 37 psi, with the vacuum hose off.

And I tee in on top of the fuel filter right? But my car has stainless steel braided thick lines from the filter to the rail. Previous owner was running nitrous on it and did some mods. I'll take a pic.

Avoid teeing. You need an adapter for the top of the fuel filter which needs to be made. If it was rubber and you had an extra I would say tee in a fuel pressure gauge there but the way the car is set up I wouldn't touch the braided line.

Then you need to find a way to get a gauge in there. Whether it be at the pump or rail. But you are just pissing in the wind until you have your basic figured out. It could be a bad pump, plugged filter or even poor wiring at the pump. Or it could be a maf or ecu. But without even knowing what your fuel pressure is at its kinda hard to guess.

That's true. I'll figure a way to test my fuel pressure. I'll post a pic of the fuel filter setup and please let me the easiest way to do this test. I'm very new to this stuff. However in technically inclined.

Well just so you know you have made it much further than most newbies we see on the board. I am sure you will have this thing up and running soon enough.

B&M RTM makes a special banjo bolt to add a gauge to the stock fuel filter.

Make sure to get a liquid filled gauge and keep in mind that it will read ~6psi low when hot.

If you already have AN lines on there than something like this would work.

You're doing great, don't worry! You'll pick it up quickly.

If you're still on the stock fuel filter, then as Rob said they make THIS to allow you to easily get a fuel pressure reading at your filter.

Pretty sure this is the piece you need to plumb in a gauge if you already have -6an lines:

https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=17734&cat=383&page=1

Oops, I missed the post where you mentioned having braided lines from filter to rail. The piece that Ziggy linked will make it incredibly easy.

I think the lines might be bigger then -6 an. They are pretty thick. How do I check if they are -6 or -8 an lines? I'm just being patient. And Roman Cullen has been helping me as well. He hooked me up with a fpr and Is willing to lend me an ecu as well. I'm just taking it slow and work on it when I get home from work. I'll get that adapter from rtm. I asked a member to post the pics of the fuel filter I took. Hopefully he posts them soon so u guys can see what I'm working with.

It is unlikely they are -8an. That is not very common, especially if the line up to the filter was still stock. IN all likelihood it will be -6an lines you have.

Made a photobucket account finally lol.

Fuel filter. Top view
http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/a...mage_zpsd4a35ce8.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

Fuel filter. Side view
http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/a...mage_zpsda321130.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

Engine bay
http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/a...mage_zps47d4978b.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

Hey Ziggy. Nice to see u here.