First, let me say I had no clue where to put this in the forum

So I'm having fun with circuitry and would like to know what is a good soldering tool and soldering medium for circuits and very small components. I have two general soldering tools but none seem to work and my soldering wire doesn't seem to take to this type of metal. Just goes solid without actually binding to either surfaces.

Need new equipment or soldering wire, so if there are pros, recommend away!

Thanks!

I have one of these.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2in1-SMD-Sol..._DefaultDomain_2&hash=item2347fc5b09

There knock offs of the big brands and they actually work really good for circuit board work with there temperature control.

Great! That may be what I need. Does it require special soldering wire? Or may my issue be due to temperature control?

I did small board work with my cheap CT iron, it works but it's definitely frustrating.

This is the solder I used and it was far better than the stuff that came with either of my irons
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0049RNTWQ/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1419785869&sr=1&keywords=solder

Anthony Hiscock might be the best one to ask about this stuff. I'd like to hear what he has to say, particularly with regards to tools/solder/pastes/etc. for working with PCBs.

May have to pick up one of those units that Mike posted - looks good.

I don't get on here as much as I'd like to these days, so very busy.

I'd recommend brand name stuff. To start off get a simple Weller 35W soldering iron, stand with sponge and good solder. I've tried the cheaper stuff and it's always given me bad results. I prefer Kestor solder .035 with flux.
Stay away from lead free because you need special tools.

Make sure whatever your soldering is clean and add extra flux if needed, I've got a flux pen that works good on wiring and such. If I need to hold a small SMD component in place I use a tacky/sticky paste solder.

Hakko is another good brand of soldering iron but watch for fakes.

What are you soldering? Pictures?

I solder fairly regularly at work. I use a Weller WD1, which is a great iron but probably a little expensive for an occasional DIYer.

Also use Kester solder, w/rosin core. Believe this solder has lead in it, have used high quality "audiophile grade" lead free, silver solder in the past, harder to work with (as it requires more heat) but not bad if you have some soldering experience.

I hardly ever use additional flux, as it's typically not required.

I have a number of different tip sizes, depending on what I'm trying to solder.

Typically if your having issues with solder, your not getting the parts hot enough or you have a bad tip.

If you get a new tip, tin it (ie coat it with solder & wipe off the excess with a wet sponge). And do the same each time you go to use it. Don't leave your iron on for extended periods of time without re-tinning as it can cause the tip to go bad (stations that have auto off are a nice feature). And make sure to keep the tip clean, if you burn rubber or plastic, etc, solder won't want to stick & you'll need a new tip.

Sure there's lots of video's on youtube on proper technique. But tin your tip before you start, (& again every so often if your doing lots of soldering) as it helps to properly transfer heat from the tip to the parts. Depends on what your soldering but try to put the tip on both parts your trying to solder. Then feed the solder from the opposite side. This assures the parts are hot enough, the solder should flow easily, if not, the parts aren't hot enough. You should not have to feed the solder, touching the iron tip, as this will likely give you a bad/cold solder joint.

Daren makes some excellent points. Always tin a tip its how the heat transfers... and always apply solder to what you are soldering, never the tip if the solder doesn't melt and flow its a cold joint.... wish more Chinese workers knew that.