When it comes to turbo bolts and parts, OEM is king. ARP turbo bolts are not nearly as good and you'll find a bunch of testimony to that effect online if you go looking for it.

Edit: I should add that I personally have had bad experiences with ARP turbo bolts. I also thought that 'ARP was king' but alas...in most cases Mitsubishi is still king for these cars

+1 to that.

+2 on OEM, the material the ARP bolts are made of don't deal well with the heat. They either loosen themselves, or destroy the threads on the way out, not usually any happy medium.

I've had OEM bolts loosen themselves, but only when not using the OEM washers. Never had a single turbo bolt back out with the OEM washers. I did have every single ARP turbo bolt strip or snap trying to take them out, though. Never again.

I don't personally have one (yet) but a Steck Axle Popper would make removing that axle a breeze.



http://www.amazon.com/Steck-Manufacturing-71410-Axle-Popper/dp/B004IQMR8U

Never had any issue getting mine out but nice find, purchased!

Will also be purchasing one of these! With the DSMs I don't usually have much trouble but I have had lots of trouble on other vehicles (looking at you, 2008 Hyundai Entourage).

You do a lot of looking at stuff

Prybar's or crow bar usually get's it done for me.

Alright.... RAWR!

Every bolt that could require over 350ftlbs of torque did >.<

Had this old husky 1/2" set and a pipe.. if I break that ratchet, I don't care. It took every single beating I put on it and broke everything free. SUPER QUALITY!





I got annoyed with mid exhaust hangers. I'll go buy new ones.



I will spare you all the details between then and this next picture. (Let it be noted, if you leave the cup in, remove the engine mount plate on top of the tranny for some extra clearance. I didn't.. Lots of twisting to get it out.



And now.. I need the audience to diagnose! P.S. The output shaft for the transfer case has in and out play. (1/16 inch?). The clutch is toast (1500 KM according to seller. Mhmmm.) Pressure Plate beat up outside. Seems ok inside. Flywheel looks like some hot spots. But no chunks embeded in the flywheel. Soooo.. NOW WHAT?!!!













[img]http://chucklavoie.com/_projects/dsm/20150730_193929.jpg[/img]

I'm confused.. that flywheel appears to have all three dowels in place.

So...where'd the other one come from?

Your guess is as good as mine. All dowels accounted for. Maybe last tech who changed clutch didnt clean out tranny and it was sitting there.

So, new clutch, pressure plate, fidanza lightened flywheel ... relase fork, pivot ball, jesus clip. Maybe a new slave. Anything else?

I would strongly recommend the ACT Streetlite over the Fidanza. If the old slave wasn't leaking no need to discard it; they're easy enough to change even with everything all bolted up.

Don't forget an OEM throwout bearing

What was the old clutch? Looks like a Fidanza 6 puck, if so I ran one of those as well, was a complete POS.

I would probably pass on the Fidanza aluminum flywheel, they can have driveability issues because of being too light. Get an ACT flywheel, stock is ~18, aluminum ~7-8 & ACT ~12, which is just about perfect.

Anyone worried about the little play in the output shaft? Will I need to get the flywheel stepped before install? There are soo many combinations or pp, flywheel and clutch my head is spinning. For the next few years, max 400whp. Maybe 1 track night with 2 or 3 passes. Other than that, just twisties and highway pulls.

I've always had luck with penetrating oil and a hammer for rubber exhaust hangers.

My output shaft has the same in and out play since 2 years ago when I did my TOB. Haven't seen any issues with it but I'm sure other guys here can clarify that better than me.

Also, the locating pins (dowels) on mine are hollow. I swear the picture you posted of the one you removed through the inspection plate looks solid... Anybody?

I thought it was the guide dowels for the Flywheel to pressure plate (they take all the shearing forces) Those are solid and the size of the dowel I found.

They're the ones from the crank to the flywheel.. I mistaken it for bell housing to block.

Ok. Chime in peeps.

Flywheel: ACT Streetlite
Clutch and PP?

Heard go with ACT2100 PP with SouthBend Clutch.
Aiming to go full ACT if everyone agrees.
Many people say ACT 2600 is not needed for anything under 500hp.

Do I go sprung 6 puck? Full sprung disc? Solid? (I really would like as little chatter as possible). This is street, not strip.

Anyone deal with ExtremePSI? Is there a canadian vendor on here that is reasonable with cost? 30% exchange rate hurts for US purchases.

Sorry, meant to mention that: that play is normal.

I would at least have the flywheel checked; the Streetlite I bought new was stepped properly though.

For a clutch, I can't say enough good things about Southbend. I've used a few different ACT combinations in the past; this year I'm on the Southbend Stage 3 Drag. Their pressure plates have a very light pedal but hold a ton of torque. You'd be fine on a Stage 2 Daily or Endurance for your power and usage goals. With the difference in price, I'd have to recommend the Daily

Edit: Beyond the flywheel, I would avoid ACT. Southbend clutch kit on an ACT flywheel with an OEM throwout bearing

RTM Racing is your friend.

I'm using the Fidanza flywheel. Replaceable plate seemed more appealing to me not having to deal with a machine shop..

And currently the bully "stage 4" sprung 6 puck. And after having read half the board went southbend over the past few years, I think I'll be trying it next.

All oem parts for fork, pivot ball, throwout bearing and retaining clip.

Except most of the time their replaceable plates aren't flat or stepped properly, and you have to machine them anyway. And the plates cost more than the machinist does...

With a good clutch there's no need for the flywheel to get warped to the point of needing machining on any sort of regular basis.

I loved my Southbend/act streetlite combo, very nice streetable combo. I put a good 40k miles on it and a well over a hundred passes down the track.

It's advised not to mix the SB disks and ACT pressure plates as with some revisions there are release issues and as of the last couple years, ACT PP's seem to like loosing fingers.

Extreme PSI is a very good company to deal with, I've spent a few grand with them with zero issues. But as you know the exchange is killer right now.

Ziggy at RTM will take care of you very well.

Southbend clutch here as well, years back ACT was the clutch brand of choice for DSMer's but I think a lot have since switched to Southbend. Have heard of ACT having quality control issues more often over the last few years as well.

I run the TZ/FE setup from Tim Zimmer (www.tmzperformance.com) & the SS pressure plate. Close to stock feel & engagement, run 32psi daily on a 35R, ~25K miles on it so far.

Even if the flywheel is new, measure the step height as even the ACT flywheels can be off from new (ask me how I know ). You'll want the step height at least .610, flat across the whole surface.

Ziggy. You just got an order. Exchange rate hurt >.< extra 160$!!!

Thanks everyone. Stay "tuned"

Now I need to find someone in Ottawa that will fab that rad support. The body shop close by is not getting back to me. >.<

2x3 for the win! lol.

Lucon metals off Merivale Road at slack road for material.. I could weld it in for you.. But I barely have the time.. Should maybe PM me your number.

Thanks Mike. I may do that. I will look at Lucon. But first, will keep fingers crossed that Mitsu still sells MB959301. Lower Headlight support. (not the whole thing).. probably as much as getting one fabbed. >.<

MB959301 should be around $195. IF it is still available..

And yes, exchange is killer right now, I have had to adjust my pricing a few times recently...

Thanks Ziggy There are a few in states (online) for 90$-$100, if I can't get here in Canada.

Alright.. so this has been bugging me a bit. There was a tiny amount of oil at the base of the crank seal. Now that I have the tranny out, how big of a pain is it to change that seal?

I don't see the seal as a part in ASA. >.> I could leave it as it really wasn't much. If I do change it, I kinda wish it was easy easy as this 1.9 VW one >.< https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tzn4OVPSWrU

The rear main seal is actually very easy to change. It sits in a housing that's bolted to the end of the block, so you can pull it off and then swap the seals out on your workbench.

You'll need the seal, as well as the housing gasket, and if you happen to bugger up the housing itself, Ziggy's got that too: Housing.

Frikin Fracken. Called Mitsu. Gave them my VIN.. no go. Told me I need VIN to order parts. I have to call dodge. And we all know how much that will cost.

Gonna drive down and get this sorted. I have all part numbers >.<

You can make up vins if you have the service manual, why not just give them your vin?

Your VIN has a 7 bolt engine; they won't show a rear main seal housing gasket for your 6 bolt.

If you ordered from RTM last night, then it hasn't shipped yet. Call Ziggy and tell him you need to add a couple small things to it and he will accommodate

Found a nice dealership (Kanata). They were amazed the Talon was still around and worked with parts#'s only. So for those that replacing clutch.. here is the status of Mitsu's inventory. Sad state of affairs. The most important top one too

N/A | MD719925 BEARING, CLUTCH RELEASE
$19.01 | MD719602 FULCRUM, CLUTCH RELEASE FORK
$3.06 | MD706185 CLIP CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING RETURN
N/A | MD737767 FORK, CLUTCH RELEASE
$22.32 |MD718077 BOOT, CLUTCH RELEASE FORK
$17.77 / bolt | MD132656 FLANGE, 10x80
N/A | MR187766 CONED DISK, 10.5
$6.82 |MD128901 GASKET,T/C EXHAUST GAS INLET HOLE
$5.93 | MD183243 REAR MAIN GASKET 6 BOLT
N/A | MD343564 REAR MAIN SEAL
$212.11 | MB959301 – PANEL, HEADLAMP SUPPORT, LWR

Turns out, RTM is quick. They just sent out. I missed my opportunity. I will order everything else from ExtremePSI.
This is getting expensive fast!

RTM is definitely quick. They also stock everything on that list except the lower headlamp support, at cheaper prices

No OEM release bearing either from RTM. But I agree. RTM for almost everything! Just don't want to pay for shipping for two different places.

OEM Throwout Bearing

Yeah, what's up? I just got an OEM TOB from RTM last weekend.

I suck at searching apparently I will order from you next time Ziggy!