As more of us are getting into welding, let's start this thread so some veterans can help us out and us newbies can post our attempts at welding. Let me start it off with:

Seeing I have two tanks, should I fill 1 tank with C25 and the other C2? (I know aluminum is supposed to be pure argon, but will C2 (meant for stainless) be acceptable on aluminum?

I wouldn't be welding aluminum less than 1/8". I am going to do brazing for most decorative aluminum stuff. (like a battery tray)

Should I always be using gas? Or when looks don't matter on switch to Flux Core? I have a lot of reading to do.

I would get c25 for your steal welding as that should help a lot. most of the welding I have been doing has been body panels and even on the lowest setting flux is very hot and will punch through.

I should have my c25 by the end of the week and will hopefully have some time to goof around so I can give a review.

My 2 cents, only get a C25 aka 75/25, for now with just learning you don't really want to delve into aluminum or stainless until you get mild steel down.

The only thing you can mix into the gas for aluminum is helium, it has some neat effects, can increase the power of the puddle by almost 50% but that's more for tig. Other than that, it's 100% argon.

Once you weld with gas you'll never want to touch flux core again. It's a very hot, dirty weld, the wire is a LOT more expensive to the point where the cost of the gas is negligible. The only thing flux core is really good for is when you need deep penetration or in a windy environment or perhaps in a repair environment where you can't get a welder and tank in easily.

I'm no expert in welding but I'm happy to help and share what I do know.

I just built a little oil res for a project tonight out of some 6061, 4043 filler. Pretty happy with the results.

Nice fusion for the most part. I do see some undercut though.

Flat position?

Looks like a vertical bead where there's undercut.

Pressure test?

Ya there's some undercut. Everything was fone horizontal. One of the things I find with the Eastwood tig, the pedal is a little too sensitive, seems like you put too much heat or not enough sometimes. I might sell this rig sometime and pickup something with pulse or maybe just get a better pedal.

Yes I pressure tested it, zero leaks.

You must mean flat not horizontal. Think of clamping the material to a wall and running a bead left to right or right to left. Highly stacked beads are most common with the vertical position. But truthfully, I don't think I could tig as well as you.. That is until I get my hands on a multi processor. It still came out pretty damn good though! Good job Jason!

Ya I meant flat. Again it's more to do with the pedal on this machine. Start out at 80 amps and feel you need a bit more so you push a little harder and whoops it's at 130 amps.

Aluminum is a tricky creature, it builds heat very fast, start a bead at say 100A and by the time you move over 3" you need to drop to about 85A because the material is already heat soaked and you don't want to key hole it and maintain the same bead.

Thanks Mike, this is after about 1 year and 3 months of tig experience, aside from a crash course(literally lol, 2 semesters on a mig and 1 day on a tig) on it back in school 15 years ago.

Aluminum is extremely tough to get right the first time. I've been doing some arc 4043 with a 1/8 rod and I've repaired a cast column shifter bracket, and steering wheel hub for the tractor. I'm eventually going to try it on 3mm IC piping at 70amps, I can get a solid bead with perfect fusion. But it will require a few practice runs!

So I picked up my tank of c25, went with a 125cf one because Jason said that was a good size to go with. I will take some pictures once I get started. Going to see where I can pick up supplies to build a welding cart.

What a difference!!
Loving the gas so far! Here are a few first passes, I am going to find some sheet metal from body stuff and see how it is, just wanted to try a few passes the last pass is the one on the left.



I do have a question though, should I just leave the gas in the line after I stop welding and close the tank or should I be purging the line?

Just shut off the tank. But for safety sake strap that tank to the wall. If it happens to fall and the valve breaks it turns into a missle.

Ok thanks for the heads up, will do that!

Exactly what Stephen said, on both accounts - especially the restraining the tank part. Never ever ever leave cylinders standing freely like that, especially when charged. And always put the metal cap on when the regulator is not on...helps prevent 'missle mode'.

Fun fact, our school experienced a missle tank, had the repaired cinder block wall to prove it lol.

It's done, did it right after he told me to do it. Secured now so not going to tip.
That's crazy Jason! I imagine that would be terrifying.

I sent reza some nice NDE inspection supplies if anyone wants to inspect there stuff..

Jason it looks like you dipped the torch at one spot there(black in the weld). little undercut..and warm.. but overall nice.

Also try a adjusting torch, Thats what the gf has.. She HATES foot pedals..

This stuff you sent Reza, is it xray equipment?

Could it inspect porosity?

No I can't supply reza with a form of RT(gamma) radiation.He would need to acquire a license through CNSC.. and he would be at about the cost of 5 dynos in to get set up with ONE gamma camera or a x-ray tube.. He COULD buy a x-ray tube but again i doubt reza is gonna spend 300+k plus(just for basic equipement, no supplies) licensing fees and insurance(near 50k a year) to have this. Most people say it's about 500-700k to fully get going and then there is yearly costs, repairs, certificates, coursing, and so on.

I gave him LPI( liquid pen. inspection). it will detect all surface defects.

Mag partical A/c is good up to 3mm depth SUB surface defects mainly for service..

Mag Partical D/C is for sub surface defects.

If someone is badly wanting there rods/pistons,crank etc... x-rayed. I can do it AS LONG AS YOU COVER SHIPPING BOTH WAYS(return slip is included).

There are NDT companys in ontario(I can provided numbers/contacts) but you are nearing 180$ a hour plus travel+cost of supplies).. minimum 3 hour charge. So to do a simple shot on a rod you would be near the 800$ mark of inspection.

What are you looking for porosity in? a weld? casting?

Welding!

And I realize it takes certifications to use those types of instruments. But I was asking because I recently completed a 6 month welding contract (I'm certified by CWB in SMAW) at a new restaurant in my area (kitchen roof mounted equipment, weighing 10,000lbs +++) and the CWB inspector performed a visual inspection of the work and passed everything. But with overlapping fillet welds, there's always a good chance for slag inclusions that wouldn't typically pass xray exams and I was curious what sort of equipment Reza now has access to. Granted he's in Toronto, and I'm in Ottawa, I doubt I could ever "borrow" it lol

This isn't my day job however. And although I've given it a lot of thought of making a full time switch, I mainly dislike the sporadic contracted work. I've been on the financial roller-coaster before and it's not all that fun.

It would all depend on what code your calling to for it to fall.

Hell CSA Z662-12 pressure pipe code will allow 10mm of IP, 50mm of slag and so on.

But it being structure welding you normally would get UT in not RT(i have done rt on structure but rare).

Also if your worried about slag just burn it out... but don't burn through

I have had to. But as long as it goes in hot enough, it just peels itself away. Quick chisel and wire brush and onto the next.

I'm thinking of getting my B ticket next. But I could only afford the time in my off season, which is in the winter time, as I put anywhere between 50-60 hour work weeks 8-9 months out of the year. At least I'm certified in all positions. Really opens the doors to a lot of contractors. But like I said, not my day job. Unless I get something full time with the same benefits and pension as my current job.

I'm sure I did, still getting the feel for this thing, controlling both hands and the foot pedal all at once is not as easy as some people think. One thing I need to do is make my work bench taller, I find I need to lean over my work a little too much, being more comfortable will only help. I'm not and don't plan to be any pipe or structural welder so I'm not at all concerned with being able to weld perfectly in all positions.

Better foot pedal, more comfort and more seat time will all help for sure.

Bare in mind you need a J-man to get B pressure.. Also it's POINTlESS in ontario as it's not recognized

Try a hand control torch it MIGHT be easier.. it's a dial you can move around with your thumb as your going.. that way you can PUT ALL pressure on your legs you want.

That's a good point Sven! Didn't even realize that!

Thanks for putting things in perspective for me

If you come west b pressure is also only required for ASME code.. You DON"T need any tickets to weld on CSA as long as you pass your test weld your good to go(but who is gonna let you weld without tickets)

Someone on the board here is getting some -an fittings

Not me but i want one

Can't wait to see after PC

Looks good!!..

Turn the heat down a little

I spy a little UC

It's not welds but I am that much closer!





Now all I need is a good jacket, a screen so I don't blind the neighbours and to grow a pair and not be intimidated by welding.

Gonna start with Flux Core just to get used to things. Now to find some scrap test pieces.

Check out Loucon Metals on Grenfell Cres. off Slack Rd. nearest Merivale Rd. South of Hunt Club Rd. in Nepean.

I grab most of my metals from them and 3 mins north from them is Air Liquide on Enterprise Rd. off Merivale Rd. if you want gear, supplies.

You don't need a jacket unless you're doing over head stuff IMO. Just a ratty old sweater with no open pockets if you want a bit of arm protection. I bought this one for $200 + tax a couple years ago and it's served me well in the field doing structural work. (FUCKIN HOT TO WEAR)





This is the newest respirator on the market that will work with your helmet. In case you don't have great ventilation with where you're welding.

(random pics from google) And I recommend some TIG welding gauntlets. They'll give you the best dexterity in the fingertips but it's not really needed with MIG.

Looks good. But all you really needed was a 20a 110 circuit for an affordable welder.

My AC/DC machine doesn't like anything less than 50amp 240.

Thanks for advice all. I will be welding in garage with door open.

I have lots of long sleeve shirts that will work. Not sure about the gauntlets. Will read up on them.

Will hit up Lucon Metals. They were the ones that made my front rad support temp piece.

As for 240 I had to for the Lincoln mig PAK 180. 240 only. 40 amp recommended. More of a pain but at least I have the power to do bigger stuff later.

I also installed the same outlet in my garage. Then I pieced together the material to create a 30 ft extension cable. IIRC, TSC sells them too.. just double check the prongs match.

It's far better for me to weld outside the garage for many reasons.. Ventilation, space, safety.. Too name a few

Oh and the gloves in your pic are gauntlets.

Don't stress about gauntlets those ones are fine. I don't usually wear a glove on my trigger hand, or if I do it's just basic mechanix gloves.
Once you ditch flux for gas the gloves don't need to do as much as you will have far less splatter.
And agreed on the sweater, I didn't buy a welding jacket until I started welding lying down.
And no sandals and always wear socks!! Don't ask me how I know.

Maybe I'm just getting to used to motorcycle gear calling gloves that past your wrist a gauntlet.

I disagree. Will it work? Yes, is it optimal? No.

I have a dual voltage machine and 110 greatly reduces it's capacity. Even on thinner material it just seems to run smoother on the 220v than on 110v.

It's not a big investment to get 220v and I wouldn't want to not have full use of my machine because it couldn't get the power it needed.