Try a Coolant pressure tester. Can be had for $50'ish plus an adapter (for dsm) from PA.

This topic is beat to death every year and there's a really good write up by Ryan lalibert (I think).. Too lazy to find the link... Alex?

Oh and I asked what you're using for Coolant. I run water wetter and distilled only.

Nice, so just use the front seat bolt? I thought about getting one of those but wasn't in the mood for spending 50+

DSM cooling system

Thank you!! Added to the bible.
DSM Bible - Cooling



Flexible Car Floor Seat Gooseneck Mount Holder for 7-10.1 inch Tablet PC



Look at my SIG!!! I like to lube my pump. So I like 20% coolant along with Water Wetter

So here is my childish drawring. I saw Andrew Brilliants idea of tilting the intercooler back a bit and adding this ramp fin across. I won't be able to tilt it back but adding the fin will cause the air at the top to not clip the top of FMIC and become too turbulent. As well will force all air below through the FMIC. I don;t see a way to efficiently scoop air from below FMIC to rad.



Going to buy some aluminum sheet and this



Once I duct, I should be ok

I will try and leave that sheet in place as I suspect during idle, fan will kick on and simply suck in hot air from engine and not from the front of the rad if I leave it open. Adding a second fan that also comes on would be the only way.

the sheet? you mean that perferated thing in behind the rad? Remove it, going get some foam from home depot and seal the shroud the the rad if you are really worried about that.

Also if you cut a whole in your hood right behind the rad all the hot air can get out easier. Jeremy did this and it looks good and made a big difference.

I would never use that cell stuff for pipes in that area.

Rated to 83c (170F). In that proximity to the Turbo/Manifold, wouldn't risk it.

That is why I need my CF hood. The two nostrils from the CF hood on my previous Talon.




Got photos of Jeremy's hole?

I am sure there is something rated for 250+

Seems jamie has a similar hole
http://www.ca.dsm.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=442397

I can't seem to get a better picture

You can get commercial fiberglass stuff.
https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/PIPE-INSULATION-FIBERGLASS-0-63-IN/_/R-WWG4LFH2
Temp. Range 0 to 850°F


It's one of my biggest peeves about forums. Images disappear over time due to user hosting.

So you are really into a thread with awesome photos and poof.. they start being all broken. All big forums should host the photos or at least keep a smaller res backups and add

Yes completely agreed, it's the worst when you find a walkthrough that had detailed picture but is now not helpful without.

Luckily these are DSM's, and just about anything you can imagine or want has been done and beaten to death on just about every forum. So if you can't find it on here, DSMtalk or Toonerz probably has something very similar.

How firm is the tablet holder? Doesn't flop around?

Not worried about the seat bolt part. Not worried about the neck to bracket bolt (I used blue loctite the thing)

The neck is ok and the clamp to tablet is nicely padded with grippy stuff. I positioned the tablet so leaning on the dash to avoid that jiggle. (I hope)

What will worry me is the ball grip on the back. Ball is metal and ring + fingers are plastic. Hand tight may not be enough. Haven't taken her out since last weekend. Stupid sidetracked projects so I haven't tested. I will report back if and when I do.

I want to do the ducting and flush rad again to keep my temps down before I take it out again.

Sorry, didn't notice the essay you typed up for your sig.

And I like your pic. Geometry isn't 100% and the wind isn't going fast enough

Oh and thanks Alex.

That man is like a memory locker. Good on you!

The FMIC covers just a little more than half the rad.



Luckily, the rad has folds on the ends that I can hook the sheet metal duct side panels into. (my cardboard demo)

Looking top down

I was going to order one but I'm too impatient and just made a mount last night lol.

Ugh. Full day in the garage. Ducting complete.

I put the throttle body back on (I rebuilt last weekend, but I ordered 90TB kit (14mm, 12mm seal). TB was a damn 91. So I reused a metal casing and jabbed a rubber oring in it). Fit nicely. Throttle shaft felt good sitting in it.

well.. today I found out.. doesn't hold worth beans. can't even pump 1PSI pressure into it. Leaking from TPS side (which is my makeshift seal).

FRAK!

RTM.. just take my money. Not gonna order just 1 seal.. nooooo.. I must buy min 200$ if going to ship anyway

lol that's good that they have kits now, back when I rebuilt mine i order from USA

So I got the parts (Big thank you to RTM for speedy delivery)
Got the shaft seal installed... and... @ 7 PSI.... pSSSSSssssSssss.

What the Flargenflugen! Injector seals are pissing out air. (TB sounds quiet. Maybe). Mind you, I am doing this boost leak test with a cold engine. Thoughts? Cold engine should seals be holding? Let me know. I want to get this car moving by the weekend.

Also, my overly expensive manifold blanket came in. Very nice. Very expensive, but very nice. Thick and padded, It's big, but it will work. I also noticed my manifold to turbo gasket has a crack on the turbo side. Left soot on top of the turbo. I believe the whole thing is ported, so not sure how well the stock manifold to turbo multi layer gasket will do there.

Oh yeah. And did I mention I failed to check on my tires since I pulled it out of storage? Front passenger tire inside is farked. Ugh. Appointment to get front end checked out. If all tight, 4 wheel alignment. She won't see much road time with a tire like that.

Cold engine should still be sealing for sure! If the injector seals were never replaced they could be rock solid, i would just double check they are soft

It should have been ported to match the gasket.

Hopefully it's nothing big and you can get it on the road soon!

It should seal at all times. Injector seals are pretty notorious for drying out and leaking.

Test everything with soapy water to be 100% sure, seals, couplers. Sometimes a leak is so big it doesn't even hiss.

I find a old contact lense solution bottle works great for the soapy water test. Doesn't foam when you squirt it. Finds many a microscopic leak. Put the water in first and then lots of soap. Roll it around gently a few times to mix it up and spirit away.

Lol! All seals and gaskets should seal cold and warm...it makes no nevermind what temp you are doing a blt at. But soapy water is a must...hissing is a false sign you could have not set your valves correctly and air is just flowing by them.

So I got all intake leaks dealt with. Yay.

I changed the fuel filter, dealt with a minor cross thread leak issue (minor issue, long time to fix it. And I just got lucky more than anything.) Amazing how much fuel 340lph pump can dump in 5 seconds.

Turn on pump again, mass leak at the last injector (top/rail). Remove it, put an old o-ring back on the injector. No more leaks.

Finally get the whole car back together. Run it for 10 mins with rad cap off and things look good. Idle is a little high. Notice the throttle wasn't snapping closed properly.

I got out later this evening to check things. Forgot to bolt in fender liner front passenger. That got chewed.

Then the idle started climbing. 1200, 2000, 3000. Pain to shift. Even more painful sitting at lights. I brought it home. Looked at the car in disgust and called it a night. I suspect I will need to give the throttle body spring one extra wind. I am positive I had done it properly.

At least my coolant and ducting seems to have helped, but I won't really know until I drive it in hot weather.

Ugh. I think I just put too much tension on the cruise cable.

Now I just need to wait for a wheel alignment. Thanks all for putting up with me!

Who needs cruise control!?

Good stuff though glad to hear you made some progress.

I do. It prevents me from getting speeding tickets on long highway cruises. I want to try and relocate it to just above the rear engine mount.

So I took it out this morning to store it at work. Now that there are no leaks and the TPS is set at 0.61 (she was happier there). There are no drive-ability issues. I can high rev it, let rpms fall and she nicely sits at 1K not dropping below.

Side note, the TPS was at 0.43 and she was falling to 200rpm before catching. Once I set to 0.61 solved the falling rpm.

I am getting the knock sensor picking up knock now at WOT around 5K rpm. 3 counts. I am starting to wonder if the injectors are causing it. They are ridiculously loud. At first I thought it may be my lifters, but I'm really not sure now.

Keeping fingers crossed about alignment and it just being suspension. Not frame.

Haha fair enough.

How much boost are you seeing? have you checked duty cycle?

Seeing 26PSI. And not waivering like before. Hits 26 and stays there by .2 PSI (till I saw knock).

I am seeing a lot more instances during cruise (33% throttle) stuff (always 0.3 to 0.7)..

I may loosen the fuel rail by a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I put it on kinda tight. I was trying to make sure the injectors seated

I also noticed a very loud single tick/knock sound when I pull up quickly on the throttle cable (sound coming from injector area) I recorded it on video, but it's not very clear.

I want to head up to 1200cc or 1600cc injectors anyway. Just waiting for a deal.

And I bought the same one, new tuning solution is complete!

I want cruise for the same reason as you but ended up getting rid of it.
I'd rather an electric set up but that would mean drive by wire.

I am looking at this:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/cruise-control-unit-relocation.378642/#post-152290716

or this

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/cruise-control-relocate-remove.417102/#post-152759745

Has anyone ever done drive by wire for talon?

No but as you come to know Anthony you will learn that there aren't many things that he does that have been done before!

Not that I know of.

I know DWB is available on the new Haltech Elite ECUs but you are on your own to find a sensor to fit your throttle body and swapping the gas pedal.
It's something for future thought but I'm a long ways away from needing an ECU like that (I need my sh!t to just run first lol).

It's a sickness.....

I don't think DBW is something I'd want. Every vehicle I've driven with it I kinda hate a little. There's always a slight delay in throttle response, I don't like the pedal feel, it's too consistent like you know you're not actually doing the work, feels wrong to me. Not being able to blip the throttle while working under the hood is real annoyance as well.

Maybe I'm just old

Yeah too me it's the being able to blip the throttle while under the hood.

If you have throttle delay it's probably in the programming, if everything is set perfectly you shouldn't notice a delay at all.

Every GM vehicle I've driven has a delay, from early 2000's to even my brothers new 2016 Silverado has it, it's minute, but it's there. My Volvo has it too. It will never be as direct as a cable.

My new civic has a slight but noticeable delay too, it's especially terrible when in Eco mode but that's to be expected.

Even with a "tuner box" thats supposed to remove the delay (or reduce delay), it still exists.

Those are all consumer level vehicles, I took the porche out and had no idea it was drive by wire.

Also I think a bigger concern with performance vehicles is the delay YOU cause by shifting, I am sure that is far larger than a tuned drive by wire.

I'm not worried about a time delay when racing the clock, from 2-step to the finish line my foot never lifts, I just don't like that delay when casually driving. I'll have to say GM's are particularly bad with it. It was much less noticeable on my friends 2015 Ram.

On a side note, the Tesla model S didn't seem to have a delay that I could feel lol.