I like it, not in the way of anything too much. Can't see oil pressure all that well but just check it from time to time anyway, just have the stock oil pressure gauge. The plan was to Defi-up this car too but with the rust I may just go with essentials and repairing it to just work perfect.

Cool!

Under the knife once again, putting finishing touches to the front. Also broke a bolt in the fender fml...zip tie for now



She's got new, better looking fogs now which actually work with the front and color.



Took some time to repair a couple things as I bottomed out in downtown Toronto....stupid commissioner rd and it's incredibly uneven state. Seats tomorrow, really hoping for bolts to come out easy *fingers crossed*

Then bring this suspension up and get the HKS VPC connected so Reza can work his magic when it gets to him on the dyno.

Nice G!

Those fog lights do match the car!

yeah much better! very nice!

Passenger seat out, checked driver bolts and looks like we're good to go. Thanks Bryan for the vote of confidence, was really afraid my body there would be rusted, turns out hard as a rock!

Also, is there any way to repair the spring back action of the seat belts mechanism? or just buy a new set? REALLY tired of the saggyness and hand feeding it back into the belt slot. Corbeau sells there own version of stock seatbelts that include everything from the clip to the belt and puller.

Yea, mine was only that bad cause the last guy was a dumbass! Glad to hear it went smooth.

You can wrap the spring one more time but be careful when you take it apart, wear goggles. I almost got a spring in the eye.

Seat is in!








Straight, fits, headroom but it's very tight on the door/seatbelt area. VERY comfy, holds you like a girl in need and gives the car a nice feel.


Still trying to find the passenger side adapter. If anyone here has an account on dsmlink forum, please ask if someone has one laying around. I just don't want to dish out what Corbeau wants for them on the low budget car.

K posted on link forum.

Thanks!

Wedge Engineering (IIRC) makes seat brackets for our cars that don't break the bank.

i have a passenger seat bracket for you. I believe its "planted" brand seat bracket.

Let me know if your interested.

Yup, I may actually use wedge engineering for a fun "project" I have for the 2g as it needs to be custom Although I also have someone local that can make me the bracket so we'll see.

Cheaper the better for the 1g. Mike I'll PM ya, thanks!

Well is was bound to happen, it's time to get the 2g bumped up in status. So she gets some new BOUNCE!



Also bought new seatbelts for the 1g, corbeau, because I'm freekin' annoyed of it never going back up fully. I also care for the safety of my passengers...well not right now, as there is no passenger seat, but soon

Thats interesting, is it just a universal seatbelt kit? I would be interested in getting rid of my factory non retracting seatbelts as well. When you do the install definitely take pictures!

Will do, it's just a universal kit. By the looks of it the belt attaches to a hinge that's bolted with the seat/adapter. When it goes in I'll def' take pics.

1g getting her spoiler on....just before winter lol Better late than never.

Used windshield glue/aircraft straps and a couple of weighted objects to get it to glue perfectly to the hatch window. One thing is for sure, once the glue sets, this ain't going anywhere.

Also for those who haven't seen them at the Cambridge DSM meet:





Now, the thing you have to ask yourself, is if I'm so picky about looks on the car I don't like, what will the 2g look like

The real question is when not what.

I have all the parts, left the last gf last wkn, so should be soon. Gf money can go on car now Only thing left on the 1g is raise it up before winter; new struts/springs and winter tires, of course.

Here it is done and curing:

Alright, seeing as I spend too much time/money on the 1g lately. I want some opinions on the 2g. Remember I'm going for lightness, quick accel and overall comfy/fast

1 Seats:

I have Corbeau LG1s, Corbeau Bajas (fixed, doubt I'll use these just from the comfort and reclinability), Evo Recaros from a Evo X (heated) and SRT4 OEM seats (which personally I think are the most body hugging seats I've been in, and they are light). Yes I have a lot, but that's the problem you have when you don't use it and are really bad at making decisions

So in this department, anyone have experience with these? Specially the OEM ones on how easy it would be to implement them in the car (size/fab work)? Love my stock ones, but seeing as this is a summer car and the seats get red hot and I don't find them to give quite the hold I want, they will be going.

2- CF parts:

Legality of it. I have cf hoods/hatches. Not completely legal, but cops are sorta partial on them. Still have to decide which I'm going with. BUT Lexan rear? Big nono safety wise? Cf doors? Illegal road use? Wanted cf fenders, but after talking to some people, they weigh too close to stock to make it worthwhile.

Vented cf hoods: Engine rusting more due to being open to elements more?

3- DSS Driveshaft

I want one, not much for a discussion but I want to know if anyone would be down for a group buy. Talked to Reza/Abbas about it already in case no one else wants one.

4- Car has been run every now and then, to make sure everything is tip top, which it is. But will I need to drain the fuel tank/clean it? Fuel filter and all that will get changed anyway.

5- SRS light - only option getting it cleared at dealer? Had it disconnected as I worked in the area, never reconnected. Can I just reconnect with battery off without fear of 2 white ghosts hitting me in the head? Want her safetied before winter so I can work on her during.

6- Good rim repair guy. Have a set of SSR rims I love but are damaged. Haven't been able to track down a pair in good shape yet so may have to get these repaired to minty freshness. Looking for a guy that does the job right the first time. Want long lasing results, not 2 years down the road and paint breaks/cracks.

Oh and what clutch would you recommend for it. Daily/quick accel/I have a heavy foot/had the Daily Stage 2 Southbend on 1g, not bad (close to stock feel) but sometimes it will slip, and that's with an 18g. Although most perf clutches don't seem to like being used in traffic.

Car will have a 2g AWD 2.2 Super HD Jacks Transmission. Managed to snatch this up new with evo 5th a little while back So take that in consideration when thinking about the clutch. I could do that piece clutch kit many have that uses parts of this and that. Just looking for the best feel (not heavy, at least not too much seeing as this will be in traffic) and capable of taking power up to an HX35 which is what I will ramp up to slowly as I try different turbos and different tunes.

Endurance Stg2 with lightened flywheel would probably be your best bet there.

Seats you will need to choose something you like best.
I am here if you need fab work, my understanding is 2g is far easier than the 1g.
I don't think you need to worry about rust I am sure you won't be driving in sh!t weather.

Is the endurance the one you have? Lightened flywheel, I've heard good and bad about. Some say Fidanza some ACT. Personally I like the Fidanza for ease of use because you can replace the friction surface. I'm told that's not the better one though.

Seats, I have brackets for them, but seeing as OEM are different bolt patterns and more importantly seats are sometimes on a slant I may need to fab.

I know when I talked to the guy who did the SRT4 retrofit on the 1g he said it was a pain in the butt with a lot of measure/try/check. Heck even with the 1g Corbeau I had to do that, and that was with Corbeau brackets made specifically for the car :S

Yeah I wasn't a fan, 7lbs was too light for street use but for track and faster revving 7lbs would be the way to go. It held up great and after I got used to it it was good. I even beat it up running drag and it was fine.

Yeah but 1g is a bugger either way!!

From northern Cali ?

Henderson Nevada

Congrats on that. I got my tranny pulled out of the car. I am thinking if i should run till it blows or rebuild it.



I am also looking for a new clutch. I got tired of ACT 2100 and 6 puck sprung disk. It never slipped but just got tired of it in traffic. I dont recommend it for daily driving in traffic.

Here is my ACT flywheel after 20k of 6-puck disk.



disk plus 2100 PP


Notice the chipping on the disk ?


I defiantly ready for something new
With that being said i was considering two options:

Southbend Stage 3 Daily:


or

Southbend Stage 3 Endurance:


Defiantly sticking to ACT flywheel 11.6 lbs

fidanza flywheels very daily drivable but rpms do drop very quick im thinking of trying out the act this time around or oem

I would recommend the Competition Clutch flywheel. I changed from a Fidanza to the Comp and am liking it so far. Street manners are better than the fidanza in my opinion.

They're too light and they warp stupidly fast with the Southbend disks.

I would recommend the ACT streetlite flywheel, half the weight of stock but still enough mass to absorb heat and maintain excellent driveability.

x2 on the ACT. I didn't like the Fidanza I had. These aren't 2200lb FWD civics, a little bit of mass behind the flywheel is nice

I currently run the Fidenza and I do not like it at all. comes down way too quick and its too damn chattery. its nice on the leg with all the Toronto traffic but that's about it...

I forgot about that chatter but definitely agree there, mine was very noisy

Cool beans! ACT I guess will be my next purchase before I put the tranny in.

What about legality of cf (doors, which I think is a big nono seeing as it takes out any crash resistance)? Lexan?

Also looking on advice on these puppies:

3- DSS Driveshaft

I want one, not much for a discussion but I want to know if anyone would be down for a group buy. Talked to Reza/Abbas about it already in case no one else wants one.

4- Car has been run every now and then, to make sure everything is tip top, which it is. But will I need to drain the fuel tank/clean it? Fuel filter and all that will get changed anyway.

5- SRS light - only option getting it cleared at dealer? Had it disconnected as I worked in the area, never reconnected. Can I just reconnect with battery off without fear of 2 white ghosts hitting me in the head? Want her safetied before winter so I can work on her during.

6- Good rim repair guy. Have a set of SSR rims I love but are damaged. Haven't been able to track down a pair in good shape yet so may have to get these repaired to minty freshness. Looking for a guy that does the job right the first time. Want long lasing results, not 2 years down the road and paint breaks/cracks.

#5 yes disconnect the battery and reconnect the SRS component you disconnected. Code should clear. And for future reference always disconnect the battery BEFORE unplugging SRS components saves you from ending up in the backseat the hard way.

Lexan is definitely illegal, automotive glass is designed to shatter. I have debated on hatch glass like that which is supposed to make a huge difference.

The only windows I'd consider running Lexan for on a streetcar are the rear hatch and the rear quarter windows. The windshield must be a normal windshield (even racecars follow this one) and the passenger/driver window should be regular windows in a streetcar.

As for the CF doors, if you have a roll cage with door bars then be my guest. CF doors on a street car with no safety/crash reinforcements is a bad idea...side impacts are deadly enough as is. I don't think there's anything illegal about running the CF doors, but it is your life at stake.

Thanks for some clarifications!

Yup Stephen, everything was disconnected to begin with. Only issue I had is I kept it disconnected until now (with random starts here and there to keep the engine healthy). That was my main concern, having started the car without and then putting it back on. Definitely would not touch airbags without disconnecting everything first.

As for the Lexan , it would only be for the rear hatch window. Figured laws may be different for the rear or perhaps non existent. That's why I was wondering.

You make valid points Salomon, same ones I was thinking actually. May hold off then. See if perhaps I can engineer some with some type of crash brace in cf later in the future. Would be a fun project, especially testing breaking the crash brace

Any one know REALLY good rim repair/refinish guys that can be trusted for long term use rims?

when my dad had his magnum he cracked one of his 22's going over a pothole and the rim doctor in Kitchener fixed it like nothing ever happened for a decent price, I definitely think you should give him a call he does great work