I'm going to be dropping my rear subframe off with my fab guy. Going to get rear toe eliminators made up like the Jay racing units.
And going to possibly have solid subframe mounts turned.

I have one other member interested in the parts.
I will post up a cost and a deadline for payment if any other members are interested.

That is If anyone is still running a 1g? Lawl

I'm interested, Let me know.

Thanks.

Me too!

I'm 'the other member' but I'll just post here for posterity.

1. Mike K.
2. Salomon P.
3. Brian O.
4. Stephen R.
5. Bryan L.??? (Bryan, please confirm).

I will double check but pretty sure Shandon did the Jay eliminator already.

I would be curious about the cost of the solid subframe mounts though.

Sounds good guys. I'll get this moving.

Took everything to the shop today. He says no problem. So hopefully next week he can get started on my parts. And work out a price for you guys.

Sounds good, Thanks Mike!.

Interested in the active toe elimination kit only. Throw me down for one.

+1 interested as well

Meeeeeeeeeeee!!!!

I dropped some stuff off today. And he he started on the plugs. He said he'll make a couple changes to the next one to help fitment/welding.

We were looking around for heim joints. I am suprised how much they go for which will drive the cost up. Even the China Bay ones were over 60$ a pop shipped.
So my heims will be ordered soon.
He may start on the alumnium subframe bushings in the meantime.

Interested in the active toe elimination kit only

That is probably why the Jay Racing version costs what it does.

Yupp, I thought I could do it for half price of Jay's unit. Now I think I'll be lucky to save the taxes on a set.

I'll keep you guys posted.
MK

You know, when I was making parts, if I thought someone was ripping people off, I wouldn't hesitate to knock off that product, but I never copied any of Jay's stuff, because his price was always reasonable. I just bought it from him.

It is good though that every now and then someone tries, because you will usually find you were not being ripped off.

....So is this not going to work out?.

Have you looked at 4WD truck / offroad part suppliers? I don't know if there is anything suitable that is cheaper than $60 though.

Here's a few ideas:
http://www.tmrcustoms.ca/suspension/bushings-joints/narrow-2-forged-johnny-joint.html (Canadian company)

http://www.tmrcustoms.ca/suspension...d-packages-with-round-tube-adapters.html
http://www.tmrcustoms.ca/suspension/link-suspension-kits.html

http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/bushingassemblies.htm

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/shop/classic-truck-heim-joints-and-rod-ends~142-857-16-578-31189

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/LINKPROD.html

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/off-road-builder-parts/creeper-johnny-flex-joints-xaxis.html

https://www.afcodynapro.com/store/brand/AFCO-130/product_type/SUSPENSION-142/product_type/RodEnds-62

I'm still going to build mine. The price may scare you guys away though. I'll hopefully have a price this week.

I'm going with a 1 1/4 -12 shank with 1 inch bore. With Kevlar Teflon coated inserts. (High strength ends)

You can go with a smaller bore and still make adapter bushings for the m14 subframe bolts.

BUT from ball centre to arm end was 2.5" on my arm. And I had horrible toe in. So to have enough thread engagement you are pretty much stuck with a 1" bore end with 4 1/8" bore centre to shank end. That should give around 1.5 inch of thread engagement.

Got my subframe back with the solid bushings in them.
These reuse the oem sleeves. Bushings are pressed in and sleeves are pressed flush to the bottom of the alumnium for the front bushings for correct fitment on car.
Guy said were looking at about 140 cad for all 4 bushings.

Still waiting on the heims for the toe eliminators.

Benefit/downfalls for rear aluminum bushings? I have aluminum ones up front that I want to take out and got nothing but bad reviews when I did it. I only did it as I didnt have a choice at the time, and I have urethane ones waiting to go in.

Jason Drew's car feels great with a solid rear. I haven't been in a solid front but I imagined the upgrade in cornering stiffness would be worth it. Why don't you like your fronts Ian? And anyone consider a corrosion issue due to 2 different metal types reacting ? A problem that wouldn't exist with a super stiff rubber.

Use lube/anti-seize and you should be okay - I wouldn't put the bushing in bare (even if it weren't aluminum).

I am also interested in this answer. I still supply the rear urethane subframe bushing kits to RTM, and my stock is getting low. If the aluminum ones are as good or better AND cheaper, there would be no point in me starting another batch.

I've never driven in a car with solid subframe bushings, I have the poly ones in my front, and they are fine.

I imagine solid in the front, you would feel every little vibration from the motor. Front control arms will still have rubber bushings to isolate turning/suspension vibrations from the rest of the car.

The oem sleeves are a VERY tight fit into the bushing, He said he almost maxed out his 30ton press getting them in. I said I need guys to be able to install these with a 12 ton home garage press, so he said he will loosen up the tolerances for any future batches. I'm sure there wont be much room for contaminants to get inbetween.
The bushing to subframe would be a good idea to lube up, just like the replacement poly ones, as they are not injected and formed to the sleeve inside the subframe.

I plan on powdercoating everything obviously, before install so I am hoping it seals out the majority of crap.

Ziggy, I'm sure the majority of owners will still want the Urethane replacements for drivability.

I still do long trips in my 1G. If these bushings shake my teeth out, or resonate through the cabin, I will probably remove them and switch to the Urethane ones.

Unfortunatly I don't have a review for everyone on the solid mounts....

Thanks for that answer, though.....gives me the info I need. It is a big investment to make a batch of these, so I would hate to spend a fortune and then have demand disappear.

Well, no one else makes them so I assume you shouldn't have too hard of a time selling these (Ziggy). But, based on what I've heard from people, solid in the rear isn't so bad. As Mike said, solid in the front will really transfer everything from the engine and transmission and steering/etc. Right to the driver.

Solid in the rear, I can't imagine it being anywhere near the annoyance of a solid front given so little actually attaches to it and it's location in the vehicle.

The whole car shakes like crazy, all the time. Gives it more of a race car feel I guess, but I don't care too much for it.

Well guys, I tried, but things came to slightly more than the Jay racing units.

If the dollar was on par, they could have been made for about 60-70$ less.

The guy has the subframe bushing dimensions still if anyone wants them. They came to $140 for the set of 4.