Have at it:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-rebuild-and-modify-a-power-steering-pump.345914/

Should be noted that the link above is for a 1g power steering pump. The 2g is slightly different. I am actually rebuilding mine right now and was using that as a basis, but supplemented it with the FSM.

I didn't have time to learn. Just bought PS Pump and Alternator from Mr. Magnoli. Drop in. Put into storage and now I have a spare pump to crack open and modify at my leisure...

Thanks all for the info. I was just afraid it was a bad bearing / gear in the pump. I just see seal kits. Won't know till I open it.

The pump is quite simple to work on, most likely just one of the bearings shot.

So the parts I got from Mark are in the car. I started it up and let it warm up... No noise at all! Sweeet! PS pump is quiet again!

Go for a little test drive. Voltage spikes of 18v above idle. Lights go super bright, ABS light comes on, Belt squeels (during the spike)... I limped home praying the ECU would hold out. Car was not happy. I knew the alternator was untested and I only paid 20$ for it so was worth a shot.

So now... snow is flying on Monday. Car won't get to storage till I get that alternator changes. I was tempted to drive to RTM and pick up an alternator to get it on this weekend. Bah!

Maybe some nice warm days in the following week? Hope?

How far so you have to go..

We had 1 car just swap out batteries over and over toget to shoot out in Ohio... 8 plus hours... I believe it went thru 3 batteries.

Also.. My local wreckers charges 15 bucks for a Saturn battery.. But you have to remove it... And it's a pain cause it's on the back of the block.

Have bigger problems now.Something is blown after the spikes.

I put the new (95 DSM) alternator in. She started up but took some coaxing. Idled like crap. It finally stalled out about 2 mins into warm up. During that though.. good news is.. the alternator I got today is putting out a solid 14.2 volts (looks like an original DSM alt)

Anyway.. I can't keep it running without giving it gas (and she stumbles while doing it). Before I rip the ECU out to send to ECMTuning for a checkup, is there anything else I should check?

I tried replacing the PTU with a spare I had. No change. She doesn't want to stay running. Any tips on things to check would be greatly appreciated.

Check what the coolant temp says in ecmlink, that will tell you if the sensor ground is blown. If it reads something normal, it's not the problem, if it says something stupidly cold, there's the issue.

While shut off ok? With key to on, I checked. 63F. O2 is cycling.
Nothing else seems off.

Blown ISC maybe?

She's fighting me! I figure the ISC is ok. It would not cause stumbling at any rpm.

I did the wire tuck under the fuel rail which made it so I couldn't undo the Coil Plug. Removed Fuel rail and undid tuck.

Checked Primary coil.

Standard: 0.5 - 0.99 ohm.
Value 1.3 ohms
Was like this last year though.. so not overly worried.

Secondary Coil. 0 Ohms. I can't get a reading on either side. Will order another stock coil.

I put everything back for now and had fuel leaking out one injector and then again after re-assembling, lower seal wasn't holding pressure. Now good. Just waiting for battery to recover (only have slow charger)

Sadly, I didn't mark the wires to coil, so I went to put back together and can't remember the order. because of 1G in a 2G... Use Non 95 CAS checked in ECMLINK

Coil
-------
O-O O-O
-------
3 2 1 4

SO I have the car running back to it's crappy idling self (at least it starts and barely runs if I hold the gas.

I checked the ECU. It's clean and shiny. No signs of burnt anything.

I tried a spare PTU I had, car runs the same.

I don't suspect it's injectors. All plugs are wet when I pull them. (when I had the Plug Wires in wrong)

I have ordered a Secondary Coil Pack. (Be in next Monday)
I have also found a CAS locally.

Next steps for me are:

- Post a log of startup and assisted idle for 30 seconds.

- Pull one plug wire at a time put in a spare spark plug, ground to valve cover and see if it sparks. Do it for each cylinder.

- Pull off the CAS and check it. (It's leaking a little oil anyway, so I can do seal replacement same time. Afraid it's hard wired in though. Will see.

- Check Base Timing (Which I have been putting off since I bought the car)

Once I get the car running... no more used parts for Bixley. She only gets brand new. Lesson learned.

My Question for you guys is:

Can I pull the Injector plugs off and turn it over? (prevent flooding the cylinders)

What's your boost gauge reading during this whole thing?
Have you tried playing with the CAS a little, I know there are a few guys on here that adjust there CAS just by listening to the car idle.

(sorry if I missed anything as I didn't read everything)

Hey Bryan. Coles notes:

Got a used alternator. It spiked (18V) occasionally to very frequently soon as I was on my street. Car was NOT happy. Stumbling when she got in the garage. (She was running like a top just before spikes). Put in another used ALT. this one is good (so far).. but car is still very unhappy.



I will take notes of Boost Gauge. Pretty sure link was reporting normal Vac.

All your fuses are good? 18v spikes my have blown a fuse.

Also I would double check your valve timing seeing as the last thing you did was a Tbelt and cam gears. Then of course check your base ignition timing.

Thank you sir!! Yeah checking mechanical timing is a quick easy thing to check!

You're on V3/SD right? Have you verified your tune/settings didn't get wiped with the weird voltage issues? V3 is supposed to keep the tune during power loss but I have seen several times where it reset to stock.

Something is going on for sure, can you post your idle log? or email it to miles556@hotmail.com

TALON IS FIXED!!! THANK YOU ALL!!!

I went to take a video of the engine at idle.. and it was squeaking and clicking like a mofo. I go and look .....

Timing was the issue! But not overall timing. Adjustable cam gear on the intake side. The bolts loosened and it went all the way forward.

I hope like hell that isn't enough to cause valve damage, but I re-centered the markings.. Idles like a champ!!!!!

I will make sure to put locktite on those next season. Now.. pray for a break in the weather to get her into storage.

Thank you again to ALL!

Told ya.. Should have held off on the cam gears..

I also have Fidanza cam gears and they came loose on me as well. I replaced the (cheap) fasteners with longer bolts and self-locking nuts. Unfortunately the Fidanza design requires thin nuts, or else they will hit the timing cover. So I cut round windows in the timing cover to allow for the fasteners.

Did you try loctite? Or that was WITH loctite?

Did not try loctite. At the time, I was planning on trying different timing settings. Every time you loosen the fasteners, you're supposed to clean out the hardened Loctite. Sounded like a lot of work and frustration. So self-lockers made sense.

Hey all. Been awhile. Here's a little update.

I pulled the talon out of storage and drove it to my new home. I think I have taken it out a total of 3 times this year. I have been experiencing severe knock at anything over 21 psi (since I did the timing belt and cam gears). I also am having idling issues when warming up. WB reads 10.0 then swings widly to --- and it stalls. Huge swings until it hits operating temp. Then it's ok. And the last time I took it out, she stalls when coming to a light. 50kph, push clutch in, put it in N, let clutch out, coast (all is good (900rpm idle. Till I hit 0pkh. Then it stalls)

So this weekend I did a boost leak test and found a leak at injector seal on Cylinder number 2. Pretty sure it's not the source of the wild O2 swing or stalling. I may also have an exhaust leak between the manifold and turbo (that may be responsible).. anyway.. When I pulled the CAI off, looked at the compressor wheel and low and behold. a little fleck of silver on the lip. I have shaft play and enough that the fins will touch the edge now.

So with that said, I dove in and bought some more parts. Coming are:

FP Red
FIC 1120cc Injectors
New Oil Lines and Filter to turbo
New Turbo bolts and washers
New Manifold to Turbo Gasket
New Air Filter (last one was so dirty I am amazed it didn't implode)

I may also attempt the Meth Injection kit that has been sitting in a box.

I'll keep everyone posted. I think the GF is more excited to get this car going again than I am. Aiming for consistent low to mid 400HP. Least I stayed under budget this year.

Was just about to do an update for myself when I see this. Glad to see she is still going and that you are working on it!

I see your timing went funky, I assume the cam gears are still correct? How's your vacuum at idle? I don't see what cams you have on this page so can't tell you what it should be.
Check compression!
Also I would suggest you have your tune nailed down before you throw meth into the mix.