I just bought a 1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD with the intention of using it for a winter vehicle. Well I was taking it home, and as I rounded the corner, I clutched in a braked. The RPMS dropped as soon as I did so and the car stalled. I didnt really think much of it, but it does it almost every time that I clutch in and brake. I am wondering if this might be the IAC or PCV. Any other ideas on what it might be. Oh, I should also mention that the RPMs fluctuate quite a bit at idle..

Now my main problem, and the one that is causing the most grief. As I was driving, I stopped at a light and I noticed some smoke seeping out from the crap of the hood. I headed over to a parking lot to check things out. I popped the hood and noticed that the smoke was coming from the rear of the engine, oil burning on the exhaust. I looked underneath the car and oil was dripping off almost the whole drivers underside of the car. Something, possibly the tire, was spraying it along the car. Well if I wanted to get home, I had to drive, so I poured some oil, that a buddy happened to have, into the car. As I was driving, The oil pressure started to drop, then the low oil light came on. About a block away from my house, the oil pressure dropped off completly. I was looking at my car today, and although the oil is topped off right now, there is still no oil pressure, and the oil warning light is on.

I cant pinpoint where the leak is coming from. Somewhere on the driverside, near the bottom, is all I can figure out. I need to take my car to the school, but I really dont want to take the trip with no oil pressure...

Well, for starters... DON'T take that trip with no oil pressure!

A few things to check:

1: Turbo return line, make sure it's not leaking as this will spray oil under the car along the exhaust.

2: Oil Pump sending unit/filter area. Make sure this stuff is tight. I was checking my filter one day for tightness and to my surprise, I could spin it freely. Make sure the sending units are all good and the sending unit-to-block seal is good.

The long bolt that your oil filter screws on to is connected to the oil filter housing. This bolt may have come loose, check to make sure it hasn't because if it does, it will separate a chunk from the rest of the housing, causing oil to leak everywhere.

3: Have you tried overfilling the oil? The pickup tube may have some air in it causing it's syphen to be lost. You may have to overfill (a little, like 1/4 liter) and prime the pump. The easiest way to do this would be to pull the MPI fuse and crank the engine. Have someone with a flashlight look into the valve cover to see if the lifters are spitting oil.

As for the idle, you may be looking at ISC motor. Consider this:

You clutch in, the idle drops. At the same time you are turning, using the POWER steering, which relys on power from the alternator. Also, you are braking, which increases the vaccuum. The ISC controls the throttle to allow for the engine to do all this.

GL!

Thanks alot man. Alot of help in that post. Yeah I decided there was no way that I was going to make the trip so I am having it towed to my school and I will be able to get it up on the hoist to see whats up. Is there an was that the ISC can be cleaned? Or will it have to be replaced?

The ISC is not something you will be able to "clean" as it is a sensor. (Idle Step Controller)

Would the ISC be the same thing as the IAC (Idle Air Controller)?

Idle Speed Controller
IAC Stepper Motor
Idle Air Controller

Synonymous!

Well i got it up on the lift the other day and my auto teacher figures that its the oil pressure sending unit that is causing the oil problems. I am going to replace that and go from there.

what month of 92 is it?

I ask because some crankwalk symptoms are stalling in turns with the clutch in are they not?

1G 7 Bolts are not prone to crankwalk as much as the 97-99 7 bolts. It is a possibility, but not very likely.

Noises during a hard left turn and the clutch sticking to the floor are better signs of crankwalk.

It isnt always from turning. Basically when ever I am driving and I clutch and brake. I will check out the month on it though.

Well, shitty deal, I think I need a new oil pump or something. As some may know, I wasnt showing any oil pressure, I though that it might have just been a bad sender. However, I wasnt showing any oil pressure, because I didnt have any...Go figure.. So now I am in the process of ripping off my oil pan to get to the pump. I have been looking around though, and I cant seem to find an oil pump anywhere. I have just been looking over the internet to get a price. Does anyone know where I can find one?

You can get new oil pump gears from your Mitsubishi dealership.

But... Did you find and fix the leak?
If you leak all your oil out and end up with air in the pick-up tube, as Ryan pointed out - you will need to prime the pump.
This is probably the case as these oil pumps don't die suddenly like that.

Overfilling with oil and jacking the passenger side way up, then cranking for 20 seconds or so with the MPI fuse out, should get it primed.

Another (better & safer) way is to pump oil in through the hole that your sender is attached to. I used a drill syphon pump and it worked well.

Im not sure if it is leaking or not. I have ran it a couple times just checking pressure and things and never had a leak, but then again, oil wasnt getting everywhere it should be so its most likely that the oil never reached the spot it leaks from. I got off all the inner drivers side fender, and I noticed that the oil pump sproket isnt looking right. It is crooked, and there isnt even a nut on the end of teh shaft. Also, the plastic belt cover is melted from friction where it looks like the sprocket was rubbing. Im thinking that maybe a shaft broke, or the nut came loose and that sprocket is trying to come off...