Just put in my freshly built tranny and 2600 clutch and resurfaced flywheel... bled the car probably 20 times even when i have constant stream i went more and more just to be sure.. and my clutch will not disengage... tried playing with the master cylinder adjustment.. nothing....... when car is on i cannot get into any gear...off, i can....... anybody got anything i can try???

Leak some where in the clutch line. Mine was leaking from the master cyclinder.

Yup; I would start by having a look at the Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder for leakage.

I also seen in your profile that you have a 1990. Their is also a posibility that the Clutch Pedal Mechanism is worn and does not allow full range of movement/input to the Master Cylinder.

You can check for exsessive play by pushing the Clutch Pedal with your hand and look where the Pedal Linkage change the linear motion into a rotary motion. It is comnon occurence for these two parts to wear. Again; you should be able to see the wear (if any) by pressing the Clutch Pedal with your hands.

Some weld the two parts together or replace them with new ones.

Hope this helps.

Ghislain.

check for leaks and found zero .. Laliberte is gunna head over today and we will check out the mechanism... thanks!... let you know

I had this same problem after replacing my clutch. After checking the other two with no success, I looked at the clutch fork as my friend was pushing down the pedal and the fork was bottoming out and could not physically go any farther. I had to pull the transmission again and replace the fork and pivot ball. Not sure if the original one was bent or just worn too much, but I threw a washer under the ball and it's worked like a charm ever since.

exactly what ryan said i would need to do.. what size washer did you put in?? only 1? gunna do that today! thanks AJ

I don't remember the exact size or thickness it was one that I had lying around at the time. I think it was just one and the hole was just big enough to fit over the threaded part on the pivot ball. I replaced the fork and ball because I wanted to cover all of my bases but it was probably not necessary. Before you put everything back together after the transmission is bolted up make sure it's disengaging. It would be way easier to do it at that stage rather than have to drain your transmission again because you needed one more washer. Good luck!

can push my pedal a good 1/4 inch before my reservoir shaft decides to move... gunna try that before i tear the tranny off.. unless someone says otherwise quick!

This might help:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

gave that exact page to the machinist that did my flywheel

clutch fork is towards passenger side... (feels loose on the ball is that normal?? :S doesnt feel like there should be play there.. fork IS on the bearing though) and i have at least 1/4 play in my pedal... sooo... lots of work to do!.. will post how it goes

You have to look there while someone presses the clutch pedal.
If it doesn't move about an inch, then work your way back (check hydraulics and pedal assembly).

If it does move a good bit, it's probably bottoming out. You'll need to pull the trans off and fix the pivot.

it moves perfectly.. hydraulics are fine.. no air or anything... slave does have a slight leak.. but did before i did the swap.. and will be replaced soon.. but! .. i did just check my fork and it is towards the passenger side.. so im gunna put some washers behind the ball until its center or slightly drivers side:)..

It's probably a combination or the leaking slave and loose clutch pedal assembly. You have to fix both to get that 2600 to disengage.

yea the 2600 is holding too much pressure.. ordering a slave and MC in the morning.. will post again when parts are installed!

By the looks of things, the Hydraulic System is not creating pressure. It was when we first installed the clutch, however because of the age of the parts on there, and the immense force increase required to move the Belleville spring, seems to have taken it's toll on the slave. There's little force required to compress the slave and it's leaking fluid pretty bad.

The master will be next on the list of things to go. Pressure will find the path of least resistance, and with the age of all parts involved (which is why we changed your clutch rubber line), they are going to eventually let go. You'll end up replacing your entire clutch/hydraulic system before this is all over Kyle. The only thing you won't change will be the hard line.

Tim, that tranny looks pretty good man, well sealed and clean!

Tim PROMISED me to try the assembly first!

PS RYAN thanks for just taking off tonight! ... anyways... clutch assembly is getting bushings and tacked tomorrow night... and slave is being ordered in the morning... see how things go on Tuesday.

I told Roman I was going home, you were in the house.

You're welcome for the help......... and the coffee.....

YOU left before I could say THANKS.. and we were suppost to celebrate:)...

Yeah, I would have gone, but was feeling burnt out from the weekend, just wanted to get home.

So far.. shimmed my pivot ball with just bigger then a 1/16" washer to center the fork, rebuilt the slave.... that made my clutch finally disengage, but not fully... currently working on welding up my clutch mechanism.. doesn't seem to be very worn, but its so close that I'm sure it should make it 100%.. good thing for sick days .... thanks gentlemen!

all welded up... what a fun job!... NOT.. but its done... unbelievable the difference that makes and i barely had any play to begin with.... im still not 100% disengaged or hitting the sweetspot you could say.. still needs a little more push!.. extended master C rod? thicker pivot ball shim? any more ideas guys?? SO close

I think you'll want to extend the rod just enough to make it work.
If the fork bottoms out, that's not good.

That being said, getting an extended rod and maybe playing with the grinder is probably all worth a shot!

perfect... was gunna be my next move... just wanted a second opinion!.. thanks

well I extended the linkage by welding a nut onto the end where the master rod threads into the clutch linkage. When clutch is to the floor and I rev it up, the car will start to creep forward around 6 g's or so... and Im still getting a grind going into second, third is a bit better it seems, without over revving of course! My engagement point has also grown allot. It seemed almost perfect before and like it needed just a little more to disengage and be the best damn clutch ever, but I did that little extra and still hasn't helped 100%.. just moved my engagement point more then anything..
Any suggestions before I order new fork and ball? Adjustment under the shifter boot help at all?

Shifter adjustment won't help since it's obvious that the clutch is not disengaging fully.

You might as well also double-check the flywheel step height while it's apart again.

I had the flywheel machined for him at our shop. It was machined to 0.610" as per RRE's page.

He's grinding his 2nd gear rather hard, which lead me to think about the cable adjustment.

Replacing the pivot ball and fork with a new OEM one will be the next step. It seems shimming it did not do the trick.

Yes replace with OEM parts, and extended rods, and shimming pivots is a bandade fix, if he welded the clutch assembly when it was in a bad position it would not fix the problem, I bought new clutch assembly, and bushings and welded it never had a problem since, the old assembly had a 1/16" play at the square key pivot that converted to 1/2"-1" of lost clutch pedle travel = same problem you have, but my tranny was also missing the starter plate that goes between the tranny and block which contributed to my problem(s) I think.

True. You must make sure that the assembly (from the pedal to the rod) is in full retract when you weld it. Did you make sure you checked this when you welded it? There's no reason not to be fully disengaged by now.

Yes I made sure that my pedal was getting full motion. Before I swapped my clutch and tranny I was getting this same grinding but ONLY 3rd gear. Now Im getting it mostly going into second and sometimes 3rd, but there is no reason why I have to "baby" my shifts to make it not grind, if I dont hit correct revs and let it slit into place by itself with light pressure on the shifter, itll grind... Not the worst grind in the world, but its a grind! Should be smooth as a babys bottom with all these new parts. Gunna have to try a new fork and ball.
And I do not have extended rods, I welded a nut on the linkage that the master cylinder rod threads into, to make the threads longer, but does the same thing yes, so if the fork and ball works that go.

Sounds like your missing something, have you tried to pull up on the clutch pedal itself after pressing it in and out a couple of times, if you can pull it up 1/2"-1" the pedal assembly is worn out where the lever/arm that the threaded rod is attached to meets the long clutch pedal post/rod, there is a small square shaped key under the nut that is the lever/arm pivot point that wears out = replace it and weld the nut to the lever and the threaded area exposed. But you could have a bent fork if you bottomed it out.

There are three places the assembly can wear. One is from either of the bushings. The second is the square knotch that Malcolm is discribing at the pedal side of the assembly. The third is the bore hole that the master cylinder rod bracket attaches to it. Did you make sure none of these have any play?

Yup, somethings definately fracked up. You need a better eye to go over it again

The clutch pedal assembly does have to come out when you weld it so you can do it properly. These 3 points of wear cannot be fully inspected when you leave it in the car. Holding it and tacking it doesn't really do it.

As stated, all the "fixes" we have tried are just bandaids. The clutch system is supposed to work like it did from the factory with any style clutch.

Ryan,

Are you saying that this clutch pedal was welded while still in the car?!?

^^^, ya that would be pretty hard to put a good tack O weld installed, and I had to douse mine in water to avoid melting my new bushings I put in

This is correct Tim.

Yea, that'll do it. You won't get that 2600 to shift great until you fix the issues and remove all the bandaids. I would start by pulling the pedal and welding it properly with new bushings.

On a side note, I think the extended slave rod is one the most retarded things invented for DSM's. If you understand the whole clutch system and its geometry, you'll understand why. It's a ghetto fix.

Shimming the pivot ball is fine if it has worn down a little and you want to bring it back into spec without getting a new fork and ball. I tend to put a thin shim on a new fork and pivot ball anyways, to make up for future wear.