Glad ya got this figured out!!

are you guys sure you could effectively heat it up without damaging the crank seal?

As long as its not glowing red, and just hot enough to have the ring shocked and move a tad bit from the quenching, the seal wont be hurt. If that worrys him, Im sure the 5 bolts holding the rear case on will not be an issue to remove for the time it takes to work on the ring.

Use a press. Put it in the vice on the press, then use a big socket (the size of what you're taking out), to knock out the centre piece.

Or, if you want to buy one of those pullers you put up a picture of, Princess Auto has them for under $20.

I got it out. Broke it free with the grease/socket method (hydraulic pressure) then vise gripped it and hit the side of the grips with a hammer until it twisted out.

Ok guys, I'm at a complete loss for words. I installed new flywheel bolts, un-installed auto spacer thingy, a new TOB, resurfaced the flywheel to 0.620 (according to RPS who manufactures my clutch kit).

I start the car up. It fires up nice. I push the clutch in, GRIND. I push it in again, GRIND. I take off the ghey aftermarket pedals (for good) and remove the carpet and REEF the clutch pedal down, A LOT less of a grind.

I adjust the master rod, re-bled the system and still GRIND and less grind when I push the clutch in and try to put it throught the floor.

I even went as far as to try to bring the slave closer to the clutch fork by grinding 2mm off each mounting hole surface where it bolts to the transmission.

Same ****.

My pedal assembly is dead, yes but this is insane. What do you guys suggest? Does 0.620 sound right for flywheel step height? Thats what I was told my RPS trbo clutches.

"My pedal assembly is dead,"

Well then fix it. Its alot less work than remachining a flywheel. A pooched pedal assembly will not let you get in gear. No matter what you adjust, the end of the assembly arm will just wear more and more.

Its not an easy task removing it though. I remember it was the fight of my life. After a few hours of getting cut up and using every curse word in the book, I held it up in the air and screamed like an apachee after his first scalping.

GD it. I was hoping you were going to tell me to hit the Business Depot easy button. That would have been key.

Tim get your car going SOON. Cause we all know my car won't be ready anytime soon, and even if it were, I'm not paying those gas prices. I need rides! take the damn clutch pedal assembly out, I'll give ya a hand, but beer is on you. And stop telling people you folded yourself into the footwell to adjust the rod, we all know who really did.

Is there anyway I could tell if my flywheel was cut to the right step height for the clutch kit in use?

I read that if I look at the PP through the inspection plate and it moves a bit when you hit the clutch pedal/TOB, the flywheel is out of spec. Does anyone want to validate this?

The only way to tell is to measure it. I always have the Machine Shop to show me the measurements.

Ghislain.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

.620 seems a bit deep to me.