Re: Block removal
#185242
July 01, 2000 07:09 pm UTC
July 01, 2000 07:09 pm UTC
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 7,503 Trenton, On, Canada.
Ghislain Goudreau
Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
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Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 7,503
Trenton, On, Canada.
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Hey Man!
No you don't have to remove the tranny. Specially if you don't have any problem with it. This way it will save you lots of work as you need to drain it, remove both wheels and both shafts ya di ya da!
BTW; I think it would be a good idea for you to consider if you want to remove both Balance Shafts. Michael Hamilton could a good reference for this one.
I know I'll be taking them off whenever I rebuild a "new" bottom end.
Hope this helps.
Ghislain.
Rouge!!!
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Re: Block removal
#185243
July 01, 2000 10:23 pm UTC
July 01, 2000 10:23 pm UTC
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Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 1,278 Grimsby, Ontario
Craig Watson
Member
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Member
Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 1,278
Grimsby, Ontario
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Sorry to hear about the damage Gavin However, it seems I may be missing something here (and this is only my .02) but how would one go about pulling a block and leaving a tranny in a DSM? But in order to pull the block out you would have to be able to slide the clutch assembly from the tranny, and there just ain't no room in our configuration (or for any other standard transversley mounted engine that I'm aware of) You would need a good 8" to slide the engine towards the driver's side to clear the tranny, and the front of the engine clears the frame by like 2", no? I know that this method works with front engine rear drives... but with a FWD? Now, if you were able to pull the engine (and please somebody correct me if I'm wrong in what I typed above) there would only be one bracket supporting the tranny (the other 3 are on the block), and I know that the rubber bushing in there doesn't have the strength to support the tranny on it's own. Sorry Gavin, but to do the job properly, I think you should be pulling the whole thing (tranny first, then block) ------------------ Temporarily Busted 93 Talon Tsi AWDhaving fun in the mud - instead of on the street (for now) www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Street/1125/
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Re: Block removal
#185245
July 02, 2000 12:30 am UTC
July 02, 2000 12:30 am UTC
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Joined: Sep 1998
Posts: 7,944 Halifax, NS
Troy Jollimore
Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
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Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
Joined: Sep 1998
Posts: 7,944
Halifax, NS
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If you're just looking the piston removal and replacement, you don't even have to take the block out of the car. You just drop the driver's side crossmember, then the oilpan, and just work on the pistons from underneath.
Since I was doing so much else, I just took the engine out of the car. You can leave the tranny attached to the block to do this if you have a proper engine hoist, but I'd recommend just getting the axles completely out of the way and dropping the tranny. I tried it with the axles in place, and it's more pain than it's worth.
What are you planning on, Gavin? I'm going with '95 pistons and '90 rods and bearings(probably from Conicelli, but the rods I may be able to get cheap from UAP/Napa), a Total Seal ring set, and probably new rod bolts. I also took the chance to remove the balance shafts, and I took the crank out to get the block cleaned and checked. I found some gouges in the crank bearings, so I replaced those and got the crank polished. I'm also getting the head mildly race ported.
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Re: Block removal
#185248
July 03, 2000 08:21 pm UTC
July 03, 2000 08:21 pm UTC
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Joined: Sep 1998
Posts: 7,944 Halifax, NS
Troy Jollimore
Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
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Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
Joined: Sep 1998
Posts: 7,944
Halifax, NS
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I chose to replace, because my shortblock was a 'new' one with only 75k kms on it. You could get a used engine for around $1000 in reasonably good shape. Most people I ask, though, say something like, "It's in awesome shape! Except for that huge hole in the side of the block." You'll have to watch yourself, unless you just go with a racing block from Buschur or something. (:
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Re: Block removal
#185251
July 06, 2000 04:11 am UTC
July 06, 2000 04:11 am UTC
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 7,503 Trenton, On, Canada.
Ghislain Goudreau
Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
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Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 7,503
Trenton, On, Canada.
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Sorry to dump this here but it'sd late and I got to getsome Zzzz. Anyway just found this on the Talon Digest, might be of interest for somebody. http://www1.rider.edu/~danik/talonpage.html
Night.
Ghislain.
Rouge!!!
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Re: Block removal
#185252
July 06, 2000 01:04 pm UTC
July 06, 2000 01:04 pm UTC
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Joined: Sep 1998
Posts: 7,944 Halifax, NS
Troy Jollimore
Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
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Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
Joined: Sep 1998
Posts: 7,944
Halifax, NS
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I would remove it anyway, it makes things a lot easier to get at, and only takes a few minutes.
Thanks for that link, Ghislain. I read it before, and I'm just hoping that I won't have to go through that kind of hell. (:
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Re: Block removal
#185254
July 08, 2000 03:13 am UTC
July 08, 2000 03:13 am UTC
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Joined: Sep 1998
Posts: 7,944 Halifax, NS
Troy Jollimore
Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
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Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
Joined: Sep 1998
Posts: 7,944
Halifax, NS
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By all means, give it to someone to save yourself a lot of hassle. Unless you're like me, and too poor to be that lucky. (:
You must mean the crankshaft bolt. Hmm, I got the four for the pulley off with no real trouble. The bolt itself we got off with the block out of the car. We braced with something, and then used a large socket.
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Re: Block removal
#185255
July 08, 2000 03:35 am UTC
July 08, 2000 03:35 am UTC
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Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,704 Calgary, AB, Canada
Sean Costall
Serious Member
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Serious Member
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,704
Calgary, AB, Canada
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Isn't this the bolt that people loosen with the starter trick? That is, brace the socket/breaker bar against something and turn the key momentarily, to get the starter to break the bolt loose? I could be wrong, best to check the archives... ------------------ S. 1000 AAQ: 1000q.dsm.org ECU Primer: members.home.net/costall/ECUprimer/index.html
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Re: Block removal
#185259
July 09, 2000 01:52 pm UTC
July 09, 2000 01:52 pm UTC
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Joined: Sep 1998
Posts: 7,944 Halifax, NS
Troy Jollimore
Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
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Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
Joined: Sep 1998
Posts: 7,944
Halifax, NS
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Oh THAT one. Mike got it right, but you need to brace it with something, like a friend standing on the brakes with all their might.
It's not so bad with an air impact wrench, but if you're using the 4' breaker bar method I use another 3' bar or so wedged between 2 or 3 of your wheel studs. This will distribute the force evenly enough so that the studs won't snap, and wedge against the floor so you can apply the 150ft/lbs+ of torque needed. Hope your hub is nice and loose so you don't have to press the sucker out... (:
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Re: Block removal
#185260
July 14, 2000 05:20 pm UTC
July 14, 2000 05:20 pm UTC
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 68 Langley, B.C., Canada
Aaron Loney
Member
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Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 68
Langley, B.C., Canada
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Its not that hard. I droped a valve on my 92 talon NT and destroyed the head. It was going to cost me 1500 to rebuild the engin and 2000 for a used one. So I went with a used one. I pulled the engin with the tranny still in the car(never trying that again). But the hole thing was pretty easy. Dont give up to easly. Once you get the drive shaft bolt off it is easy going. I had never done anything like this befor, and all i did was follow Hans manual. It was quit easy.
------------------ Need For Speed
Eagle Eye ICQ:88984356 92'Talon
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