Anybody know the seal from the xfer case to the driveshaft that goes to the rear works? When I took the case off the shaft slipped out of it and oil started dripping, put it back, but apparently its still leaking?

Hello Chris.

Scott Neville should have the ansewer for you. Drop him a line.

Ghislain.

I know that damn seal, I've repleced it on three occations. It is the seal that fails and causes a transfer case lock-up. Its about $12 from any Satan location. I've got a spare one in my center console.

Turns out it was the yoke that was leaking. Check your yoke!

my seal is new and still leaks, the whole damn transfer case is new and still leaks, i have to fill it up completely every 2 days!!!!!

it is the yoke for sure, adam clay sells them for $66

Its not the seal that leaks (unless its worn out), its the Yoke that is faulty by design.

There is a new Yoke out that replaces the factory original....and its not $66 bucks either.

I just replaced my Yoke 2 weeks ago with the new design.

New yoke - 80$ DSM Price - Adam Clay

its relatively easy to remove the drive shaft but how do u take the old yoke off the shaft? is there any other part i will need to buy?

easiest way is to take the driveshaft to a shop and have them press the U-joint out, replace yoke, press new U-joint in. Done

or you can bang the U-joint out in your garage (take the c-clips off first, it helps right vince ). Put wheel bearing grease in the U-joint cups and press the new U-jount/Yoke into place and bang it in.

PLEASE don't bang out the U-joint. Use a vice and a socket to press up against the joint shoulder. These little u-joints are tough to change for the do-it-yourselfer but not impossible. By smashing them with a hammer you will destroy stuff, and get some driveline vibrations. Lots of PWD and patience and you will get it. Price out a new u-joint before hammering on it. They're not cheap!

PS. I opted for the new style yoke as well. It consisted of the old yoke plus alot of silicone. Has never leaked since.

Actually, on second thought, you don't even have to remove the u-joint to seal the yoke with silicone. Just use lots of brake parts cleaner to clean the inside of the yoke, then put some silicone down into the center of the yoke and let it dry somewhat before sliding the shaft back in. You might want to try this to see if it seals before buying a new yoke. I think there might be a VFAQ on this somewhere?

I've banged them out, banged them in, and I have no drivetrain troubles whatsoever. Now if your using a 15lbs sledge, you might have a problem.

U-joints are 24 bucks each. CT part number 015-2187-0

Its preferable to press them in with a press, but not neccessary if your careful.