I've heard of this happening a few times when people put external oil coolers in. They don't think to fill the cooler and lines with oil before turning the motor over and it's bye bye bearings.
It's always a good idea to crank the engine over with the MPI fuse out to fill the oil passages whenever you do anything oil related (expect the normal oil change of course).

Is this what happened?

Interesting.
I'm fighting with mine right now too...
I'm about to put the old belt on to see if things go back in line.

Oh, no Rob, I put my new one on and timing is set now. I didn't have to fight with it, it just, went on without a hitch.

Fastest and easiest timing I had putting a timing belt on.

Tashko;

The reason I had no oil pressure was because I forgot to plug a hole where the stock sending unit went. I pulled my pan 2 weeks ago, my bearings are fine.

Quite often, when "pulling the pin" the exhaust cam will spin a bit, taking up the slack in the belt.

This is enough to get the valve timing one tooth off.

I had it happen to me so often, I started lining the belt up one tooth off, then, after spinning the engine around, the marks would line up.

Yeah, that normally happens, I knew that. But this was INSANE.

No matter what I did, either the exhaust would rack, or the crank would, pissed me off...

Now, I can go pull the timing belt cover off and sure as sh!t, I can put that pin back in.

That Nick Boers timing belt pulley tool rocks!

Well, here's what's up.

Got the car running tonight. Still not fixed. I have replaced the following:

Timing Belt
Tensioner
Knock Sensor
Harmonic Balancer

I do have a ticky injector, but it's RIGHT at 3 grand, at least it's not as big of a range as it was before.

It's a little less, not as bad, but still there.

Please see this post in regards to my rod bearings, just to be sure.

I'm also thinking of running a heavier weight oil, like a 20w50 as my oil pressure is still low, like 3 psi at idle.

Is it completely silent besides injectors before and after 3K?
That's some strange lifter tick...

It's completely silent. I can't hear anything.

Now, I have a loud lifter at idle, like really loud, turns out the insulator is torn, gotta replace that.

Next step is to pull the valve cover and pop the cam caps. I'm also going to check the torque on my ARP's.

Now, when I installed the ARP's, I replaced them one at a time. I went from the center-out, however I torqued them down one as I installed them.

Good or bad?

Dude did you ever even try another ECU? It doesn't make sense you weren't having this issue last year were you?

Tranny mount bolts nice and tight?

Haven't tried a new ECU yet, going to do that tomorrow. The ECU from my 91 should work fine.

No, I wasn't having this issue last year, tranny bolts are nice and tight.

Isn't your 91 an automatic ecu?, I have an irritable 92 eprom chipped for 780cc in my car you might be interested in taking for a spin, and an excellence condition stock 92 ECU.

OEM belts are the same as any other t-belt, the dealer that is selling you belts, gets them from the lowest bidder that has the best quality and availability.

I just bought a complete goodyear gatorback t-belt kit and installed it, 230 my cost with all tensioners/idler bearings both belts, excellent quality. For just a gatorback goodyear main T-belt $27, $20 for the b-belt.

All the OEM belts I tried failed before 40000km, perhaps it the way I drive and the lack of an upper cover.

Are you running meth yet?, cured my knock issues.

If I,m not racing this weekend @ king of the hill N-bay, perhaps I'll come visit..

I want to race in N-bay this weekend, that's why I gotta get this fixed.

I can set my injector compensation with my MAF-T. And meth won't do anything under vacuum. It's all hooked up and ready to go, I just haven't been able to open it up yet.

I replaced a gasket on my downpipe tonight, turns out the flex is toast, multiple leaks and it's right up against the transfer case.

I'll bet that's it.

Run it without the DP for a minute to check.