Ok, car started up fine today, drove it for 5 minutes, then went to my work to talk to my boss, turned it off, and now it wont turn on. It goes to turn on, the VR RN RN RN RN RN RN RN, it's not making that ticking noise like a dead battery... but I'm not sure what else it is ?

I'm thinking maybe my injectors, I've got aftermarket PTE 550s?
Also, could it be my starter or my alternator?

ECU, coil pack, power transistor, injectors resistor pack, fuel pump, etc. There are many things that can go wrong.

Brandon, do you have a logger? You can toggle your fuel pump to see if it's on. If not, provide a 12v feed to the fuel pump test connector.

To check to see if your injectors are firing, pull your CAS off, unplug your coil pack harness and spin the CAS by hand with the key "on".

injectors are firing, it's not the fuel pump because if I try cranking it, the engine floods and you can smell gas.

I swapped my injectors back to the blue tops to see, and it's not that.

WTS 94 EAgle Talon, $3000

I don't have a logger, I'm leaning maybe more towards my spark??

IT sounds like this guy's car here, but just keeps going

http://youtube.com/watch?v=cccqz6btIYM

Maybe its just flooded hold the gas pedal to the mat and try to start it.

Check your connections at the coil pack. It's probably something simple.

Then do a compression test.

Does the ECU cycle through the self check when you turn the key to on position?
If not, it's your ECU.
Does the car fire up at all?
Does it sould like ticking?

Nope, not ticking, if it was ticking I'd be guessing battery or starter, but nope, it's trying to crank over.

When I turn the key to the on position, the dash lights up etc.

Do you hear the ECU click off about 10 seconds after you pull the key out?

About 10 seconds after I take the key out, my radio goes teekoo teekoo for me to take the face plate off, so I'm not sure about the ecu.

Are you thinking it could be the ecu?

when you turn key to on, does the factory boost gauge go to zero, and the check engine light lights up on the dash.....if so ECU is probably fine......especially if it is cranking over

Factory boost gauge goes to 0 unless I try and press any window buttons, then it goes down into Vac.

When I turn it to on, all the lights on the gauge stay on, so instead of it going to just my anti lock break light and my e-break, they all stay on.

Well yeah because the car's not running, but does the check engine light stay on?

yes

usually they all come on, then they go away before I turn the car on, like if I just leave it in the on position.

But not now, they stay on for good, and like I said, if I press the window key, or the blinkers, the gauge does some crazy sh!t

Well, since you've been cranking and cranking, I'm sure your battery has taken a hit.

Could be battery... could be ECU.

Any funkiness when you shut it off for the last time? Did it sputter, clunk, etc?

get a friend, Try to bump start it

I think I might have a broken fuel line... There was fuel dripping behind the car, but I don't know if that was coming out of the tail pipe since it's just been cranking and cranking with no spark, or if that's a break in the line, causing it to leak.

I will have to check tomorrow.

Like, it was trying to go, the rpms went up to 2000 when I was trying to crank it with the pedal pushed all the way...

I dunno, I'm at a loss, I have to sell this car, I just was hoping it'd be running properly when I did so I wouldn't take such a hit, seeing as I just spent 2300 on it.

Yeah, you'll get it running, then you won't want to sell it.

lol even with my last one breaking I didn't want to sell it =]


It had the same issue with starting. I don't know what the rpms would but it would roll forever. The leak was so bad it would get fuel. Sending unit and walbro 255 later she would catch.

FYI my car drained the battery after trying to crank for 15minutes seeing if we got the leak fixed.

If you think it might be leaking that bad I would check first. Then go from there.

I'll check first.

But honestly, I have to sell this car because I'm going to school in bancroft, and need some better gas mileage, can't drive 300kms one way on a car that gets 400km to a tank.

A leak would cause 400 kms a tank....

let me know if you want any quotes on replacement vehicles Brandon - the Talon is actually very expensive to insure for its class.

I'm currently looking at a 2000 VW GTI 2dr with the vr6, that or a 2003 subaru WRX AWD

Brandon, when my ECU took a sh!t, the engine would turn over, but not start.
When you turn the key to on position, all lights come on and than most of them go away after a few seconds. If they still stay lit on, and funky stuff happens when you press the power window switch than I would say that your ECY is fried. Have you ever pulled it out to inspect it?
I would check to see what shape the capacitors are in.
I would also borrow an ECU and try that.
I am telling you, I did the same think, change coil packs, CAS, replace injectors, try thi and other and it ended up being the ECU.
I was getting no fuel when the engine was cranking.

All the lights stay on for good, they don't turn off like they used to.

I will see if anyone around here has a AWD ecu from 94 that I can use, does it matter if my engine is a 6bolt? Would I need to find an ecu that has been modified for 6bolt from a 94?

I was thinking more and more it could be the ECU, because it's been slowly doing it more and more.

Does anyone have a link to a web page about how to get to the ecu?

There is no modification... the only 1G ECU you need to modify is the 90. 91-94 are all the same.

ok cool. Well I will try and find one around here to use, see if that works.

Does your '94 have the power transistor? It sounds like your car works when cold, and fails when whatever heats up...

Buy a can of 'liquid cold' (CO2) and spray it on the power transistor/ECU/whatever and see if the car starts.

It's been off for about 24 hours, and it still wont turn over, so it's gotta be something more than that. I'm leaning towards the ECU, because it's not cycling through, and all the lights are staying on, it's not leaking oil so it's not anything engine based, it's still getting fuel because the engine was flooded.

Also, does anyone have a link to a site that shows you how to get to / remove the ecu ?

^^^
I forget we were all new one day....

vfaq.com

It's very simple, take off the carpet on both sides of the radio/shifter console, the ECU is behind the stereo, held by four 10mm bolts. The easiest way to pull it out is through the passanger's side.

thanks, I will pull it out tomorrow after checking all my fuses

today, I checked the fused and that looks alright.

But I lookd under the car, and there seems to be a large trail of oil under the car, I checked the dipstick, and the oil is WAY past the full mark, but I haven't put any oil into the car, so I don't get it.

If it was badly flooded, you may have had all that fuel wash by the rings and into the oil. Not good for the engine!

I would definitely do an oil change before I ran that engine!!

Thanks Ziggy, I will do an oil change forsure, but I'm not sure why there is oil leaking out of the rear part of the engine, it looks like the pain puddle is by the firewall, or just infront of it, in the middle of the engine

Are you sure its not power steering fluid or something?

it's dark and smells like oil

Could be oil return line, the oil will travel back when you drive and drip off somewhere else.