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Brake Failure #367776
January 17, 2012 03:45 pm UTC
January 17, 2012 03:45 pm UTC
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Caledon, Ontario, Canada
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Hey Guys,
So my brakes failed yesterday and I narrowed it down to the driver side rear brake and it looks like the seal as the lines are not leaking at all. I am wondering if there is anyway to stop the brake fluid from going to the back breaks until I can get some new brakes on. I do not need a lecture on how dangerous this may be it is only until I can get it fixed cause I have no other means of transportation.


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367777
January 17, 2012 04:11 pm UTC
January 17, 2012 04:11 pm UTC
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Sudbury, Ontario
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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367778
January 17, 2012 04:52 pm UTC
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Thanks a lot Ian!! that is very helpful. I will have to use the E-Brake to get to Canadian Tire and be very careful.

Do I really need a line wrench or can I just use a normal wrench?

Last edited by Bryan Lawrence; January 17, 2012 04:57 pm UTC.

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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367780
January 17, 2012 05:05 pm UTC
January 17, 2012 05:05 pm UTC
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Wow that's really good to know, so you don't have to waste money on a tow truck.

That thread had great info.

So after you cap off the line, you would have to add some more brake fluid to replenish the system or you're good to go until you can fix the brake line?


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367781
January 17, 2012 05:08 pm UTC
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Well more than likely most of the brake fluid is gone, like it is in my situation so you will more than likely need to replenish, just look at the cylinder and see how much fluid is in there and than you can decide if you need any.


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367782
January 17, 2012 05:49 pm UTC
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Depends on how tight your line is. If you use a regular wrench and its too tight, you might strip it and then youre really screwed.

Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367785
January 17, 2012 06:05 pm UTC
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You should get a set of flare wrenches. They are typically cheap and once you have em, you will never have the fear of rounding off the corners of various tube connectors. A cheap flare wrench is better than a well made open end wrench. Think of it this way, you'll have a bitch of a time trying to get a pipe wrench on it after the corners are rounded.

Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367787
January 17, 2012 06:08 pm UTC
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Ok fair enough, I will pick up a set when I am getting the cap.


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367790
January 17, 2012 07:42 pm UTC
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So turns out it is a line too. I am thinking it is one of the connections right below the drivers foot plate. There is lots of fluid there and I can hear the wind rushing out. Getting a friend to come help me take a look.


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367808
January 18, 2012 12:11 am UTC
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So I found the hole in my brake line. I am wondering if I can use JB Weld to patch the brake line. I am thinking this will work perfectly.


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367811
January 18, 2012 12:21 am UTC
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wont handle the pressure. it would have to be more than perfect. just cut out the old section and replace it with new. or just replace the whole section with new

Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367821
January 18, 2012 02:00 am UTC
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What Ian said. JB weld isn't the going to work.

You can replace the section with a some new pipe, but to do it properly, you'll need a flaring tool. These can be found at PA, but it would be best if you could borrow a quality one as the cheapies blow.

Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367823
January 18, 2012 03:39 am UTC
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It is easier to just replace the line you can get prefabed lines and union fittings at any parts store. J.B weld is not the answer.

Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367827
January 18, 2012 03:53 am UTC
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This is something you DO NOT want to do Mickey mouse!

Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367833
January 18, 2012 12:40 pm UTC
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Ok Thanks for the heads up guys. Any one want to walk me through this, I have no idea of where to start. I would much rather replace the section as replacing the line is difficult to get at, but I am sure that those with experience can tell me what would be more difficult.

Last edited by Bryan Lawrence; January 18, 2012 12:47 pm UTC.

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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367837
January 18, 2012 01:22 pm UTC
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If your just going to try to replace a section make sure to check where the lines clip in under the body of the car and ensure that they are not corroded where they clip in to hold them. I remember trying to replace a section one time and then replacing another section as it broke while doing the first ect ect. Sometimes its easier to replace the whole line. I know winter is not the time to do this sort of thing.

Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367840
January 18, 2012 01:30 pm UTC
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that is where the line has a hole, right where the line clips in.

I was thinking about something like below, but it won't clip in if I do that.
[Linked Image]

Also I don't think I can replace the hard line because I am only using a small jack and jack stands.

Also watching a video now and how would I go about cutting it? Should I remove all the clips and then use a cutting wheel?

Last edited by Bryan Lawrence; January 18, 2012 01:51 pm UTC. Reason: cutting wheel

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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367843
January 18, 2012 03:00 pm UTC
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Cut it with a tube cutter. It's the one that clamps onto the tube and you just spin it around. Tightening it a little each time. Make sure you deburr it good (inside and outside of the line).


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367849
January 18, 2012 03:49 pm UTC
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How would I go about deburring the inside of the line?


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367850
January 18, 2012 04:01 pm UTC
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Also for anyone that has done the lines on their car recently how difficult would it be for me to just replace the whole line, it looks pretty hard to get at. Oh and one more thing, can I reuse the fittings that are on the car right now or should I pick up new ones if I go this route.


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367854
January 18, 2012 04:26 pm UTC
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IT is not advised to use compression fittings on brakeline ( I think it is actually illegal in Ontario but you'd have to check with the MTO) fuel lines yes brakelines no. It will be much easier to run a whole new line especially cause you will disturb all the other old line while trying to replace a section just run a new one and tie strap it.

Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367858
January 18, 2012 05:28 pm UTC
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So is there a way to re use the fittings that are already on the line or will I need new ones?


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367859
January 18, 2012 05:33 pm UTC
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Which fittings the flarenut ones?

Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367860
January 18, 2012 05:36 pm UTC
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Not sure, but the ones that connect at the back to the brake hose and the one that connects to the proportioning valve. I assume that is where the two connections are.

Last edited by Bryan Lawrence; January 18, 2012 05:37 pm UTC. Reason: porportioning valve

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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367861
January 18, 2012 05:39 pm UTC
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yes you can re-use them if you flaring you own line. If you are getting prefabed line they come on it. but new fittings are like fifty cents

Last edited by Stephen Richardson; January 18, 2012 05:39 pm UTC.
Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367862
January 18, 2012 05:52 pm UTC
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Ok good to know. Thanks for all your help.

Is all this available at Canadian Tire, I am checking online and it doesn't say anything.


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367863
January 18, 2012 06:16 pm UTC
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Should be. They may not list it online. Parts Source or Napa for sure what you need and can probably explain it.

Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367865
January 18, 2012 06:36 pm UTC
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OK, thanks again Stephen


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367866
January 18, 2012 06:42 pm UTC
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No problem Bryan

Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367871
January 18, 2012 08:00 pm UTC
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You'll need a tube cutter and metric flaring tool if you plan on installing a custom line

A good way to do this job is to cut out the "bad" line and line it up to some brake line from crappy. Try to keep the bends and twists as close to the stocker. If you don't have 2 fittings (also @ crappy) make sure you have them on before you flare the ends of the line.

If you don't know how to double flare YouTube has lots of How To vids smile

A flare wrench or two will make the job a little easier.

Good luck brother!


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367885
January 18, 2012 11:35 pm UTC
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There is a deburring tool out there, but a small rat tail file will do fine. Try not to get any pieces in the line itself smile


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367886
January 18, 2012 11:38 pm UTC
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Shopping list:
- Brake tube
- Fittings
- Tube Bender
- Flaring Tool
- Tube Cutter
- File

Anything else I should get, I just want to make sure I know exactly what I need.

Last edited by Bryan Lawrence; January 18, 2012 11:40 pm UTC.

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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367887
January 18, 2012 11:52 pm UTC
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There are 2 types of flaring ends:
1. Round.
2. Flat.

Make sure you get the proper connectors for the type of flare end. If you use a flat connector with the round flare type, you will have a leak & vise versa.


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367889
January 18, 2012 11:54 pm UTC
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Most of that stuff is available at CT via their rent-a-tool program smile



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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367890
January 19, 2012 12:06 am UTC
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I was going to use a double flare as I have read that is what you use for brakes.

Is this the free rent-a-tool program you are referring to? I was planning on just buying them cause that way I have them when I need them.

Also does anyone know how long I should get for the tubing and if there is a specific kind?


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367892
January 19, 2012 02:03 am UTC
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I just bought one of the those flairing kits today, and it went back broken today. The black "cap" broke the first time I went to use it, so I got another cap. Then when I was making my third flare it pulled the threads out of the cast piece. They replaced it no questions asked, so I'll see if the new one last longer then two full flares. My roommate said you can get a flaring kit from napa for the same price.

If your not going to replace the whole line the union you want looks like this....
https://www.belmetric.com/images/30C.jpg That plus the two fittings cost less then a dollar.

If your going to a parts store (not sure if Canadian tire has it) you can also buy a roll of line. I'm not sure how many feet are in a roll, but there is more then enough to go front to back and I belive it is $8. That way you can just cut the length you need.


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367894
January 19, 2012 02:35 am UTC
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CT has an entire section for brake lines and fittings.

They're colour coded so make sure you get the right one. I believe it's the blue "japanese" 3/16"...or something like that. I'm not 100%. Someone else can chime in smile


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367905
January 19, 2012 01:53 pm UTC
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I think I may just do the union thing so I can get the car back on the road and then maybe I will look into replacing the whole line later. I am looking at the union and I would assume that I will have to clean off the lines after cutting them back. Then flare both ends and then put the union in there.

Thanks Lance, I am looking at the Napa catalogue and they have a flaring set that comes with the tube cutter so I think I may just go for that.

Thanks Chris, I know for sure it is 3/16 and soft steel. I will look for the color coding.

Shopping list:
- Brake tube
- Union and Fittings
- Tube Bender
- Flaring Tool
- Tube Cutter
- File
- Pipe Joint compound

Says here I need the Pipe joint compound, same thing as loctite or something else I should use for this?

Last edited by Bryan Lawrence; January 19, 2012 01:54 pm UTC.

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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367907
January 19, 2012 02:42 pm UTC
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Pipe joint compound is pipe joint compound and Loctite makes it as does Permatex and others. It's also called "pipe dope".
It's not a thread locker like the generic use of the name Loctite, it's a sealant.


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Re: Brake Failure [Re: Bryan Lawrence] #367919
January 19, 2012 07:07 pm UTC
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Good to know, thanks Rob!


"Old Blue" 91 Talon TSi AWD
"Super Enthusiast" 91 Talon TSi AWD
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