Sorry I got that backwards. On a 2g it's a 2mm at the knuckle and 7mm at the fender.

Based on this chart;



Unfortunately, for 1g, no one has come up with these specs. Only found these threads;

- http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/fre.../286685-will-these-wheels-tires-fit.html

- http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...s-size-questions-merged-fit-fitment.html

Nice reference, I will check what clearance I have with my tires and see how close the measurement are to what you have there.

So the thing that might make it difficult to compare is my car is at stock ride height, so I will have a lot more space than most of you.

Am I just suppose to use a straight edge down from the fender to measure the clearance?

It's all about clearance, not soo much the appearance.

So the measurements are based on the inner lip of the rear quarter panel. Not the outter.

Ever heard of "fender rolling"?

Fender rolling would not do a thing for me.. If my fenders hit my tires.. I might better get flares. Bryan.. I think you may have the same problem. But its cool Ive seen cool 1 and 2 gens with flares.

If you're rocking flares. Best to get a VERY aggressive offset to fill in the gaps. But I'd be concerned of wearing your wheel bearings too quickly by doing such a mod.

Yeah no plans for me to do any fender rolling.

My tires fit fine, I am just curious as to why the last owner decided on this configuration instead of something that fits more proper.

So Jeremy Gilbert was kind enough to help me acquire some lower control arms, I spent about 2 hours wrestling out the one that is in there now, it's still not out, and have the next one ready.
The end link was toast so that will be getting replace, it looks like someone already messed up one side as I couldn't get the wrench on it.
Here is some picture and how she is sitting right now.
I will take picture of the two arms together when I get this one out.

Also big thanks to Alex for convincing me to get propane. Big thanks to Terry for grabbing me the one in that last picture, I definitely got some use out of it today.

great job so far, it sounds like this is the 'hate' part of the 'love and hate'.

It's funny looking at it you would think that but I never got that frustrated which is good!
I did remove some skin, though I probably didn't need it

Anytime I'm working on suspension, or having to remove a bolt/nut that may result in my hand hitting something hard...I WEAR GLOVES!! like, "mechanic worx" gloves I think they're called.

Definitely saved my skin a few times!

Actually my major skin loss was on my bicep, hand slipped and bicep went straight into the caliper.
I will definitely be wearing gloves and long shirt when I finish tomorrow.
It was really hot so I was only in my boxers

Good luck hammering that ball join off. Hopefully she runs steady with fresh parts

Thanks again Alex!

Thank you again Alex for the 5lb Club, came off real easy today after applied some heat. Here is some pictures of the one coming off and the one going on. Also thanks again to Jeremy for getting me the control arms for a good price!
Unfortunately it seems that Purolator is sleeping and my package never left Niagara, so hopefully they get there ass in gear and I can get my car back on the road tomorrow.

great work Bryan!

Not a problem bud! I'm glad we finally got you a good set.

She's coming along very nicely!

Thanks, yeah I will be putting everything back together today as soon as work is done.
I can put the end link when it gets here, no point it waiting for it to show up.

All lower control arms are finished with the new end link on there.

I decided I wanted to put stock suspension back on so I was planning to do all four corners today but it seems I don't have a 16mm socket in any of my sets. So I only got a chance to get the front done.

I also decided I wanted to clean up my headlight plugs, I had destroyed them to fit them over h4 bulbs, one I only broke out the one that I needed and the other I totally destroyed leaving only the connections wrapped in electrical tape. Here is what I ended up with.

Shrink wraps ...nice
I have socket you need

And by plugs I meant sockets

So I went to do my rear struts yesterday and when attempting to do the passenger side I realized that it was a 16mm, which I learned today is not the correct side. Today I started with the driver side which came off no problems, 17mm socket took off the bottom bolts real easy.

Now for the passenger side, this fracking retard put a 16mm nut with double the thread spacing in that hole, I have no idea how you could frack this up but as you can probable tell this is a hate moment. I have no idea how you can't tell when you are crossing threading a bolt or how you can't visually tell the difference between the two threads.
Any ways both rear struts are on and the passenger side was replaced with the correct bolt.

The deeper you dig into your project the more stupid, butchered sh*t you find from the previous owners.

Good on ya!

That solder/shrink tube work is lookin mighty professional.

I had a good teacher

Pretty good work man. And fyi 16mm is pretty much 5/8's just incase you run into anymore shadetree repairs on your car. Probably that bolt was SAE instead of metric. Did the head have any markings like 8.8 or just some funny lines on it?

Funny enough, the only thing I could find was my flare nut wrench that was 5/8, the thing was so tight that I just ended up using the vise grips with lots of heat though.
Not sure if it had 8.8 or anything like that, what does that mean?

The numbers or symbols indicate the grade of the bolt. The higher the grade, the higher the strength of the bolt.

Metric bolts use numbers, SAE bolts use lines/symbols.

Here are some examples:

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/steel-bolts-sae-grades-d_1426.html

Oh ok, I have only seen whole numbers that's why I was confused by the 8.8
Thanks for the charts, good to know for the future, I always stick to metric.

After looking at the chart it was definite SAE, I remember the symbols.

Pretty sure 8.8 is a metric grade, and pretty much the standard grade for industrial bolts. 10.9 are higher strength bolts.

Its coming along well Bryan. It will never cease to amaze you what some idiots will do to get through a repair on their cars. Makes you wonder but it is what it is. Once you do it right things all come together better and the end results are worth it for sure!

Its coming along well Bryan. It will never cease to amaze you what some idiots will do to get through a repair on their cars. Makes you wonder but it is what it is. Once you do it right things all come together better and the end results are worth it for sure!

Haha that's for sure and that's definitely the moto I have been sticking with.

The only thing I haven't really spent the time or money to do well is the body work, but I think it's looking ok, and I am happy with the look that the car has.

So I know I haven't updated this in a long time and it's mainly because I have been spending time tuning and just enjoying the car.
When we went on our cruise I had learned that pieces of my car that I had "fixed" ie cleaned runs and tin taped, were now falling off. I have spent the summer trying to figure out how to go about fixing it and after listening to a lot of opinions I decided I would pick up a mig welder so I can conquer my rocker pannels properly. I did a few test passes and now understand why people kept telling me to spend the money and get a known company.



Also thanks to all of those that had given me advice on this!

Sweet!

Sweet unit. Same one i have. Open up the side case and clothes pin a rag to the wire right before it goes into the gun shelthing. It will keep the wire clean and moving freely.

Congrats Bryan, can wait to see what you get out of it

Thanks boys! Good to know Stephen, will make sure I grab a clothes pin next time I am at the rents.

You will also want to con Terry into running you a dedicated 20 amp receptical in your garage if you are goingto use it on anything thick or you will be running to your panel to your everytime you strike an arc.

Terry was already kind enough to wire up my garage so I have enough plugs, this will mostly be for body panel stuff so I should be ok with the 15amp.

Bryan and I foresaw a welder/compressor in his future so we ran a dedicated 15amp/GFCI circuit. Bryan...if the welder trips the breaker even once (as it might) we can easily upgrade you to a 12 or 10 AWG line good enough for what ever you can throw at it.

Let me know how it goes.

Thats good planning. It should be ok on a 15amp for just body metal.