I had multiple issues with with my transmission (slipping clutch, notchy shifts, tough getting into gear,dragging clutch) a majority of these issues went away after i did a clutch pedal adjustment via jacks transmission youtube video.

It was driving great the day the adjustment was done and the following day gave it some hard pulls (hitting 10-15psi) and she drove like a gem.

Yesterday i was driving but when i again went into the higher end of boost (10-15psi) the clutch began slipping again and i can almost guarantee it was slipping as once i let off the gas the car would jerk when the clutch was grabbing once again and i could smell my clutch burning.

I am hoping to do a clutch fluid flush soon (honestly just scared to do it as i have never done one before)

just wondering if their is anything else i should look for?

Ideas? Thanks in advance

Which clutch is in there?

I have no idea though the person who sold it to me said it was a stage 1 clutch and it has a b&m short shifter.

I messaged him a week ago regarding a receipt for the battery he had in the car as i was having issues and i still havent gotten a response from him so i dont think i will be able to get any more info regarding the tranny set up

If your release bearing is disegauging propertly there really is only 1 fix for a slipping clutch.

Sounds like the clutch drag, or the pedal "pump up" you experienced, toasted the clutch.

Bleeding the hydraulics wont help a slipping clutch... unless it is still dragging.

Your best bet is to just take it easy and gather the parts for a clutch job.

additional info:

did the red line test in 1st and the car jumps a little bit at the end around when i release the gas pedal

Could just be friction disc harmonics. Or damage to the PP.

If you are interested I will have a fwd trans with new axle seals available in this upcomming off season, it shifts flawlessly and looks brand new, also I will have an ACT streetlite flywheel with about 2000km on it.

I also have a spare oem clutch you might be interested in but she has some high k on her.

I can replace your clutch for $350 labour.

how much you asking

Best bet right here.

And that's pretty inexpensive as well.

What sort of power goals do you have Manny?

Base your clutch choice on that and get Ziggy to hook you up.

for what part? the tranny and flywheel is still in my car but in a month or so its coming off the road for an awd swap but I have the clutch sitting in my shed, if you are in a pinch you can pick up my oem clutch for $30? but if you have a few bucks to spend just buy an upgraded clutch.

Not to try and rob Terry of $30, but i wouldnt replace a clutch with a high milage used one. Tranny and flywheel sure, but not clutch and PP.

I agree, buy new.

Thanks for all the input/offered help people!! Really appreciate how supportive this dsm community is

@terry sikora: I was wondering how much your gonna be asking for the fwd tranny you will be taking out in the off season.

And @Mike eng: I havent really looked at power numbers yet I actually want to begin with a dyno run to see what is being put out right now as i am getting 10-15psi steady from my T25. I like the power being put out right now (when my clutch isn't acting up as today i didn't notice any clutch slipping even at full boost) but I would like a bit more power. I am tentatively telling myself I want minimum 300hp.

I am currently and will continue using my 2G as my daily driver until I hit the jackpot and I can afford to have 2 vehicles

Pretty sure the stock psi from a t25 is 14lbs. Which makes 210hp and 214ft.lbs of torque. That's out of the box, in your laneway.

Correct me if I'm wrong guys.

Personally, I would recommend no less than a sprung 6 puck (stage "3") clutch. And you should have room to grow into the 400-500hp range.

It comes quick with these cars so only making 300hp is like training wheels on a jet aircraft.

But if you're only in this one car as a DD. Best to keep your mods simple and "reliable" until another car is at your disposal.

400-500hp in FWD form is ambitious to say the least, Manny mentioned he was on a budget (as we all kinda are). That being said, aim for 300 or risk undergoing a small fortune in upgrade parts and a load of down time, an ACT 2100 and street disk is MORE then plenty if a clutch replacement is in dire need.

As for the cost of the transmission...I honestly haven't even thought of a price but I'm sure we can come to a agreement on one when the time comes.

The ACT 2100 and street disk is what I have been eyeing not too sure on which flywheel as i believe Terry mentioned in his project that the fidenza is too light and affected drive-ability still open to suggestions though just keep in mind this car is my DD because of financial reasons and also because i am absolutely addicted to driving this car, any excuse is made to get in her and go for a rip.

AWD conversion is a highly likely future endeavor i would love to pursue as it would help in these canadian winters (i hope i dont get ripped for driving this beaut in the winter but as mentioned she is my DD)

As for the slipping clutch i will be doing another clutch pedal adjustment tomorrow as i am skeptical of my buddy who was pushing the slave as to whether or not i turned the rod enough to make the slave completely stiff prior to the half turns counter clockwise.

I was told my clutch fluid is a bit dark and i should look at changing it, but maybe i will wait for a meet with some of you guys to get an opinion from someone who has been in/around these cars before doing a flush

Until then i guess the game plan is to avoid beating my tranny, save up as much money to put that towards a new clutch kit, also got a thermostat sensor code from a check engine light so will have to look into that immediately (though no issues with overheating since replacing universal upper rad hose and coolant flush)

Also when reinstalling my rebuilt alternator i managed to snap off the prong that the oil temp wire plugs into so i am not getting a read on that gauge which is making me want to invest into a tripod A pillar gauge mount with oil temp gauge, air/fuel gauge and 2 others which i havent been able to decide yet (i have 1 extra gauge spot on a the center cluster gauge mount)

Also @Mike Eng if what your saying regarding possible HP numbers I am very happy with this little monster at 210 and 300 would be more than enough for me but i do understand HP gains are addictive

I love my ACT2100 street disc and street lite flywheel. My goals are around the same as yours ( other then the winter driving). Your best mod would be the AWD swap. I really dont know how people drive FWD even at stock power levels.

My previous DD was a RWD mercedes c320 try driving that in the winter

If you plan on the AWD swap, I'd go with a Southbend Kevlar disk and #2200 pressure plate on an oem flywheel. Then when you are ready to do the awd swap, you just pick up a ACT Streetlite flywheel and you still have a clutch disk and pp that will hold 450hp and is easy on your leg and thrust bearings.

If you buy the ACT 2100 and street disk, you'll soon be in the same boat as you are in once you start making a little power with AWD.

AWD swap isn't going to be any time soon. That is unless this car is atrocious in winters...anyone with experience with fwd 2g in winter?

I've only had mine in the snow as awd and it was atrocious lol, to be fair it was on summer tires.

Jason is that the stage 2 endurance?

No, it's the stage 3 endurance.

Took a look at Southbend's stuff on RTM's site and the stage 2 daily is really calling my name.

It is reasonably priced and is comparable to the act 2100.

To be honest i dont see myself getting my HP up and around my 300HP goal for atleast a year if not 2 as my focus for spending on this car is to bring her up to 100% healthy

I do have a moshimoto FMIC which i may be installing as soon as i can afford to buy the piping and then a catback exhaust (i've read the stock manifold is the best bet vs aftermarket headers and worst case i can upgrade the cat)

Those are the first upgrades i will be doing once, as i said, the car is 100% healthy and money is available

What do y'all think?

That clutch would serve your needs well.

Once that is taken care of, in my opinion the next purchase would be dsmlink/ecmlink. Even with a mostly stock setup it can give you some gains as well as a great diagnostic tool.

Fully agree with Jason.

Stick with a street disk. I made 345AWTQ on an ACT 2600 with a street disk. It makes daily driving life easier.

An FMIC and 3" catback are good first part upgrades, but as Jason said you can see plenty of gains just from good tuning software. You'll need good tuning software eventually, and it's not exactly a wear item, so going for it first is definitely a good idea. It will also help you get your car 100% healthy.

+1 on link.

I know you're new here, so I'll give you a bit of a head's up:

If Stephen Richardson ever recommends something that ISN'T OEM, you can take that to the bank

He knows his sh!t

Thank you Jeremy! But there are many many more knowledgeable people on here that have way more performance parts experience then myself.

If you only have the core for the Mishimoto intercooler, you're going to pull your hair out trying to piece together piping that will work in your car, a long with couplers and bungs if need be.

I think you might be better off with a bolt on kit from PR or VRSF or something like that.

I know you're into it for at least $400-$500 but it'll be proper and hassle free to install.

I pieced together my own kit from a 3" yonaka core and 2.5" aluminium piping, it took FOREVER to get it JUST right and even then, I could trim here...trim a little there.

Sell the Mishi, buy the kit.

You'll probably save at least 50% of the purchase price from new.

And Link is the best mod I have ever made!

Hmm now you've made me ponder a lot of question of life Mike lol...do i sell the mishi and fund whatever little mods i want to do now? What can i even get for a BNIB mishimoto m series?

What's it's measurements? model #?

From www.mishimoto.com:

Model # MMINT-UM

CONSTRUCTION
Tube/Fin

OVERALL SIZE
31" x 11.75" x 3"

CORE SIZE
23.5" x 11.75" x 3"

INLET/OUTLET
3"

MAX. RECOMMENDED PSI
32psi

FIN PITCH
15 Fins/Inch TANK WALL THICKNESS
5mm

CFM
1250

FOUR THREADED UNIVERSAL MOUNTING POINTS

PURCHASE INCLUDES
Mishimoto Intercooler
Limited Lifetime Warranty

http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-universal-intercooler-large.html

This one right?

I like that the back of it doesn't have the logo. Hmmm....

Seeing as it's a $300 FMIC. I'd say ask $250, take $200..and done. Use that towards a complete kit like this one here;

https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=17447&cat=0&page=1

I wish I went that route rather than piecing together a DIY kit. It's NO FUN!! Trust me!! Time consuming and unless you're well equipped (ie. bench grinder, home made bead maker, cutting tools)..you'll hate yourself for trying to keep that IC. It's nice...and I would buy it from you but I'm good with what I've got set up. PLUS, the PR KIT mentioned above, or the way I set mine up, allows you to keep your fog lights



EDIT: This kit (VRS) doesn't allow you to retain your fogs.

https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=18211&cat=0&page=2

DOUBLE EDIT: Just realised we're talking about a FMIC in the "Slipping clutch" thread. frack! Mods maybe move this to Manny's other FMIC thread please!

Thanks Mike and i am definitely going to take the route that keeps my fogs (love the look of the 2G at night with fogs on)

After possibly talking you into the PR kit, I'm considering it for myself.

Seriously.

With the price tag on that PR kit i dont see one going into my 2G anytime soon