Re: Winter Mods
[Re: Chris Browning]
#415589
October 10, 2013 08:51 pm UTC
October 10, 2013 08:51 pm UTC
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,398 Ajax, ON
Reza Mirza
Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
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Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,398
Ajax, ON
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Well it depends on what your ultimate goal is Terry? The HTA68 is a killer turbo and spools just as fast as a regular 16g with more top end. You can't go wrong with it. But honestly I would atleast get that 16g to minimum 26 psi and have some fun with it. If your goals are bigger than this, then sure go bigger. I got used to my mid-high 11 second 16g car and wanted more power. I'm even used to my turbo now and still want more. I'm always looking at ways to make the car more faster yet still fun on the street. It's a never ending battle for me Top end killer power, so I can pump Supras and bikes on the highway is my goal
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Re: Winter Mods
[Re: Chris Browning]
#415591
October 10, 2013 08:58 pm UTC
October 10, 2013 08:58 pm UTC
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,398 Ajax, ON
Reza Mirza
Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
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Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,398
Ajax, ON
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Jay, if you read Chris's original post, he was looking at maxing out his current setup, not what turbo he should get. I'm just telling him how to do it by cranking up the boost and making the headgasket setup bulletproof. Keepin it simple my man! ...and your 20g doesn't hit 20 psi by 3,000 rpm. Any DSMer with any turbo claims 1st gear goes by too fast. You're not the only one
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Re: Winter Mods
[Re: Chris Browning]
#415692
October 11, 2013 10:37 pm UTC
October 11, 2013 10:37 pm UTC
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,950 Guelph, Ontario
Jeremy Gilbert
Serious Member
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Serious Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,950
Guelph, Ontario
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You are correct: it is highly recommended that you deck the block and head prior to running a metal headgasket. If you would prefer to avoid this, many people have had great success with the OEM composite headgasket, found here, when coupled with ARP L19s or the A1s. It is the setup I'm currently using (with L19s), and have had no problems. It should outlast your 16g.
1995 TSi AWD 11.7@119 1.8 60' - Curse of the Bad Driver PHP: 0
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Re: Winter Mods
[Re: Stephen Richardson]
#415698
October 11, 2013 10:58 pm UTC
October 11, 2013 10:58 pm UTC
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,950 Guelph, Ontario
Jeremy Gilbert
Serious Member
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Serious Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,950
Guelph, Ontario
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The block I would just clean up with a scothbright pad and some air intake cleaner. Some guy's like sandpaper but I am a non believer. I agree there, no sandpaper on my block! When I swapped heads in August, I just cleaned up my block with a scotch brite pad and brake cleaner. You just want to make sure all the old gasket material is off. The scotch brite pads are plastic so they won't take off ANY metal; the sandpaper might.
1995 TSi AWD 11.7@119 1.8 60' - Curse of the Bad Driver PHP: 0
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Re: Winter Mods
[Re: Chris Browning]
#415866
October 14, 2013 11:45 pm UTC
October 14, 2013 11:45 pm UTC
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 9,968 Caledon, Ontario, Canada
Bryan Lawrence
Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
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Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 9,968
Caledon, Ontario, Canada
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Yeah agreed, your other option is just replace the head studs. There are guides on how to do it without replacing the gasket, generally you remove and replace one stud at a time.
"Old Blue" 91 Talon TSi AWD "Super Enthusiast" 91 Talon TSi AWD Checkout DSMFAQ.com!
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Re: Winter Mods
[Re: Chris Browning]
#415872
October 15, 2013 01:01 am UTC
October 15, 2013 01:01 am UTC
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 608 Toronto, ON
Chris Browning
OP
Serious Member
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OP
Serious Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 608
Toronto, ON
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hmm, interesting option. Jason, do you know where I could get that information about how many turns each stud will go down?
Has anyone done the one-by-one method themselves? Would each stud be installed and then fully torqued before moving on to the next one or do you torque them to the first spec, proceed to the next stud, and then after they are all installed you torque them to the final spec in order?
I think that I'll do a compression test on the motor since I haven't checked it in 40,000km. If the numbers look good I'll assume the current HG is in decent shape and I'll go ahead with just doing the studs.
Last edited by Chris Browning; October 15, 2013 01:11 am UTC.
1995 Talon TSi AWD Evo III 16G / FIC 850's / Walbro 255 / RTM FMIC / ECMLink V3
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Re: Winter Mods
[Re: Chris Browning]
#415919
October 15, 2013 02:04 pm UTC
October 15, 2013 02:04 pm UTC
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,398 Ajax, ON
Reza Mirza
Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
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Senior Member, with Far TOO Much Time on Their Hands
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,398
Ajax, ON
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I have never just replaced the headstuds one at a time, but it is worth a shot like the guys mentioned above. Worst case scenario if the head ever lifts is that you'll just get on with the original deal with changing the headgasket.
Once the head bolt is out of each hole, you'll need to clean out all the oil properly so that the new stud can go all the way in. No point in doing this job half assed. Once each stud bottoms out, back it off a 1/4 turn. Do this for all the studs. This will ensure the torque is applied evenly accross the threads. If all the studs are not level, remove the stud and clean the hole up of all oil.
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