Alright so a quick update.
As most have you have seen I have been struggling with my tuning. I am rebuilding a spare throttle body and then going to swap that in and try again tuning my car again after it's been replaced.
Will post up pictures soon of it apart as it is right now and some pictures after it's back together.
Thanks to Terry for the spare throttle bodies, thanks Gui for the sandblaster and thanks snowboarder on tuners for the full throttle rebuild kit.

Alright so I will be finishing up tonight.
I am going to grab some red loctite for the throttle plate screws, any other tips?
Quick question though, I have two types of BISS screws, one is plastic like and one is metal, does it matter?
Also here is before and after cleanup.

Looks good Bryan. Any plans to coat it with paint or powder?
Defiantly a good idea to use loctite and proper screwdriver so you don't strip them during the procedure. They need to be tight

Haha, you missed the comment, it's Gui's blaster
No I won't be coating it, will be leaving it as is, unless I find something nice and easy while looking for loctite.

used to be mine glad its still being used

Hehe, like you Alex, if I'm not using it, I'm more than happy to lend it to someone who will. Thanks a bunch again for it , makes scale car modelling/tuning a breeze for paint!

Brian, it looks nice! In terms of finish, why not just get an aluminum polish, just make it nice and shiny. Paint flakes, shine lasts.

Just make sure you flush the crap out of it before you reinstall it. Just in case there is any blast media left in it.

Well I already blew it with air a lot, I will do some extra flushing before I put it together.
Not sure I will be doing that tonight as I just got home, I have the loctite though so I am ready to go with everything.

Gui I thought about doing the polishing thing but after trying it I gave up, there are too many nooks and crannies that are a bitch to get to.
I will be soda blasting the next one so we will see how different that turns out.

I know you're not coating it, but I would actually suggest baking it in an oven for about an hour, media gets stuck in the oil/crud that's inside. Baking it burns off the oil and then when you blow it out, any remaining media simply blows away. Just don't use the oven in your house

LOL, I would have used the oven in my house
What do you suggest, is it the fumes I need to worry about? Maybe I can sneak the toaster oven into the garage for a little bit.

You could also just soak it in a carb cleaner solution. The oven idea is good also. But i dont think fiav would enjoy that

You'd be surprised how much smoke will come out of one of these.

I usually pop the freeze plug out of the fiav and close it, so it's not an issue for coating. I guess in Bryan's case with him winter driving the car, brake cleaner would be an easier option.

Not to mention the toaster oven would not really be suitable for food after, unless you like the taste of oil

LOL brake cleaner it is!! Haha

Any thoughts on the plastic biss screw vs the metal one?

I wouldn't see any issue with it, it's not going to see severe temperatures or pressure. Just make sure the threads are good and clean so they don't get galled up

ok cool! thanks guys!

If you are going to buy brake cleaner, are better off buying Intake cleaner it is alot better on crud then brake clean. If you already have brake cleaner you can just use that.

Ok cool, next time I am at canadian tire I will pick up intake cleaner, I have one can of brake cleaner left so figure I should use that.

I love using carb cleaner, if thats the same thing.

Yes carb and intake cleaner are the same. Unless you mean the bucket of carb cleaner that you soak it in. Thats alot more caustic. There are also top engine cleaners like GM kleans, that help clean up carbon on the pistons.

Since were talking cleaners... I was working on my intake manifold. and got shavings all in the runners and plennum. I tried brake cleaner but the shavings were stuck in the black sut and sh!t in the manifold. So i grabbed a spray can of paint stripper from Canadian Tire. Bought it to remove the coating from my valve cover. Worked perfctly.. Sprayed it into the intake manifold and used the rest of the can. Cleaned it up pretty good. Ate right thru the gunk!

When I got shavings stuck in gunk in my intake manifold I used my go to product.... Por-15 marine clean... This stuff is the strongest cleaner I have ever used next to gasoline or airplain strength paint stripper. Not to mention it's biodegradable. It can be diluted up to 10x and costs fack all. I have a feeling you guys knew that I'd say that

If you want some serious cleaner, get some B17, it makes aircraft stripper seem like baby formula, it will strip ANYTHING right down to bare metal in minutes. It's the only thing that works well to remove powder coating. Really amazing stuff but you need to take a lot of care when using it. This is what happens if it gets on your skin

Jesus...now why would you want to use "B17" as a cleaner??

sh!t man that looks painful!

Glad you like it. It can make things a bit dusty but it does the job well. Make sure you protect yourself with quality mask



Terry got me hooked on this product. It worked great for me I used it for just about everything in the garage or home.

It's designed as a stripper for powder but I guess if you just wanted your metal parts to be 100% clean of any contaminants, then there you go lol. You actually have to limit the amount of time you leave aluminum in it as it will actually eat it as well.

Well the rebuild is finished.
One note before I post completed pictures, the FIAV/ISC housing has a little screw inside that you can only see once taken apart(I thought I had a picture), this screw seems to be a bitch and gets stuff stuck inside very easily, if you are going to blast I suggest keeping the screw in there.
Anyways here are the picture all back together, just going to pick up some gasket and then throw her on.

Good job Bryan. Just make sure to test the adjustment of the opening/closing of the throttle well before putting it on the car, if it slams shut hard and jams closed while on the car, it's not so fun

Thanks Jason! Yeah I tested it a few times, it was getting stuck before but it's good now.
The one on the car sticks like a bitch if it's been sitting so I am excited to replace, plus I don't have to worry about this one getting filthy because the EGR is now blocked.

Glad to see those parts went to good use.

making good progress Bryan. Another thing to consider is adjustment of TPS. Since you are running link the adjustment should be much easier.

Yes they did for sure, thanks again Terry!!

Thanks Alex, yeah I use the auto adjust after manually doing it first.

Well here are some pictures of her installed. Will be heading out tomorrow to see how the tune is.
The ISC was reading 38 Ohms on all coils, so I assume that means it's toasted? FSM says 28-33, some internets say 20-50 is an issue.
Looks a little funny next to the filthy intake manifold, but I am very happy.
Also what's with the allen head bolts (they were in the rebuild kit)? Is there a purpose?
I had picture from higher but they all turned out shaky.

I'm not sure about the ohms, but I just am able to tell its toast when the ISC value in dsmlink changes to a min/max value but the idle stays the same. Then I take it out and watch the motor while I turn the key to the ON position. No movement=ISC flying to garbage bin.

How do you tighten that throttle body elbow bolt on the bottom there? I can just get my fingers in there, tighten it as much as I can, then leave that one.

It's a stud, I can get the box end of the wrench on it so I do that.

You guys should get these if you don't already have them..



Nice work Bryan!

Have them, those won't fit in there.

Thanks Mike!

They dont fit in most tight spaces....heads are too fat.

The studs on my spare mani came easy peezy. The stock one not so much.

Bryan did you put in new studs?

The bottom ones were fine so I left them, the stud at the top right is new and I used one of the bolts that came with the VRSF kit on the top left.

Anti seize on both so I hopefully don't have to deal with that again.

I use a 1/4" drive 12mm socket on a wobble 6" extension.