Originally Posted by Salomon Ponte
get new OEM turbo bolts and new OEM turbo washers. They're super expensive (like $4-5/piece) and you need 2 for each bolt (so 8 total) but they work amazingly well.


I thought ARP stuff was the cats meow. >.<

Originally Posted by Jeremy Gilbert
When you get a ball joint spinning with the nut as you're trying to pull it off (which almost always happens), use a clamp to push the knuckle back up. It tightens the ball joint to stop it from spinning without damaging anything. Sorry you resorted to vice grips, but luckily the UCA comes out very easily with the other stuff out of the way.


I will try that. I think everything is gonna come out for the passenger side. I never looked at how to remove the UCA. I thought you had to remove from inside fender (2 bolts)... but from pictures I see on MOOG.. looks like I can remove bolts from inside engine bay? I'll have to look.

[Linked Image]

Originally Posted by Jeremy Gilbert
Not sure why you couldn't get the axle out with the upper ball joint detached. It's worked for me every time. Or were you trying to pull the axle out with the knuckle still attached to the upper ball joint?


That was with the the knuckle completely off. If I had 1/4 inch more room, it would have come out, but I had it folded as far out as it would go.

Last edited by Charles Lavoie; July 30, 2015 05:12 am UTC.
98,6Bolt,3"EXH,LINKV3,780cc,SD,SCM61@26PSI, 340LPH,AFPR,TSBOV,REARWB,FMIC,2"RAD(20/80/WW)