Since my rebuild, I haven't been running one. I know probably not a good idea. My powdercoat guy had to burn out the bushing to coat the mount, and I simply forgot it wasnt there. I found both parts the other day, and I'm curious what my options are now. I have no idea what size bolts are needed to attach them back on either.

A new roll stop is pretty cheap, should I just replace it?

That's one option. Another is to get those massive washers and a welder and make a solid roll stop. Do you still have the metal sleeve from the original bushing?

Yes I do. I work in a fab shop so having something made up wouldn't be a problem. Wouldn't a giant washer not line up correctly as the hole in the mount wasn't perfectly centered?

What benefits would I see from a solid roll stop? Arent they designed to have a little give?

I would think tack welding the large washers while bolted in place would avoid the problem of the bolt holes not lining up.. Then running the beads.

Whatever you do.. I don't recommend those inserts.

The metal washer idea works well. but it will find every poorly torqued down bolt and vibrate them loose.

I removed mine and replaced it with the Avid rubber mounts.

When I made mine. I just put the giant washers from TSC.. on the oem mounts as they were. The inner sleeve protruded thru the holes in the washer. I do have a 1g awd oem mount with the stock rubber in it, you can have for for cost of shipping. You can use that to make sure its lined up.

I did something similar, went with the poly insert and a massive bolt to hold it together (compared to the pathetic one that comes stock, then just widened the bolt holes slightly to make sure it would fit.

I have the prothane insert thingy siting on my shelf waiting to go aswell. Id love to go back to all OEM mounts if I could, car already shakes like hell. Gives it a race car feel, so it stays for the time being.

Can you post a picture of the mount? Just want to see the overall niceness of it

I went to full Avid mounts a few years ago and hated it. Any extended drive resulted in very numb hindquarters. This past winter I swapped in the OEM engine mounts, but left in the Avid roll stops. The roll stops are what hold things still when you're hammering on it; the engine mounts just hold the engine and tranny up. Most of the vibration is gone, but I still get my lightning quick shifts.

To clarify: by engine mounts I mean both the one by the timing cover and the one on the top of the tranny.

This is after I removed it. Sorry about the potato camera.. I can take better pics later.. Id sell it to you for practickly nothing, But you cant really do anything with it.

I'm just going to buy a new roll stop and use the inserts i have. Can anyone confirm all bolt sizes required? I'll have to see if i have them, or Ill just go buy them.

Thanks!

I think the inserts are pointless. if your gonna go oem route. then Buy some window weld or polyurathane and fill the mount.

Stock size is M10x80.

What about the bolts that hold the bracket to the block, and the actual mount itself to the subframe. Only want to have to go searching for bolts once, possibly twice.

New roll stop is in. Is there any ill effect from making the bracket holes as big as the roll stop holes and use a large bolt?

I'm sure it was designed that way for a reason.

If you look at the mount there are teeth on each side of it, with it tightened it shouldn't be moving around, I think it was designed the way it was for each of install.

Figured as much, just wasnt sure. I was over thinking it as always. Well.... Mitsubishi is smarter than me, and they designed it that way....Must be right!

My brother did as you were thinking, Ian. No ill effects here. Just felt wrong putting a bolt so thin into a mount with such a large hole.

Lots of grease to keep the bolt from seizing, plus made sure it wasn't too tight in the sleeve. Oh, and thread locker on the bolt so it doesn't shake itself loose.

Makes sense to me, I want to stop the motor from moving. With the smaller bolt in the bracket, theres still about 1/8" play all the way around if not more.

Why not measure the bolt needed and buy it??

Are there no fastener places in Sudbury??

Going to measure the one that goes through, its the only one that has any room to figure out. I can barely even see where the bracket mounts to, let alone figure out what size bolt is required.

So you still need me to take out those bolts?

Yes please. Just need the size of each one. Should be 4. 2 on roll stop, and 2 on bracket.

Id play the guessing game until I get it right, but its so tight there I'll probably give up.

Thanks!

Ok. I've got some time after work. I'll post my findings.

Perfect. Thanks a million! If I'm ever in the area I'll buy you a beer

From top to bottom.

(2x) M12 x 42mm, 17mm hex cap with 2mm split lock washers. For both top and bottom of the bracket to the block.

Then,

M10 x 40mm, 14mm hex cap with 1mm split lock washer for top of the lower bracket from the cross member.

And sleeved through that is another,

M10 x 3" (76mm) locking 14mm hex cap and matching nut.

Everything is 1.25mm thread pitch.

And the bolt that connects the block to the roll stop is an M15 x 3" (or slightly longer if need be) with matching lock washer. Likely another 17mm hex cap. And make sure to use grade 10 where you can.

Note that I didn't physically have the M15 in my hand, I just measured the sleeve and as long as you have a 15mm shank by 3 inches or maybe 3.25" you shouldn't have any play.

Is there any way to get this damn thing back in with the motor installed? It seems to hit everything! Is dropping the front subframe the only way? Seems to hit the turbo/wastegate aswell. Don't have a large turbo either, just an evo 3 16G. The part that bolts to the block is what im referring to, the actual roll stop drops in nicely from the top.

Thanks.

Is your intake off?

Leaving the lines connected to the 16g, you can just unbolt the 4 bolts at the manifold to the turbine housing and should give you enough clearance to get on those 14mm bolts. Maybe inspect the gasket while you're there.

Intake is still on. Even with the turbo moved, when I bolt it back up it seems like it's going to hit the wastegate. Is there a known clearance issue with this turbo? I'm positive its pretty much the same as the 14b. I'll probably drop the front subframe anyways, I have new prothane bushings that need to go in. Running solid aluminum ones still, not a huge fan.

I may get ambitious this year, if not its a spring time project.

I ran an E16G with no clearance issues and I've never heard of anyone having clearance issues going from a 14b to a 16G. It should fit identically to a 14b.

Thats what I figured. I'm probably just not approaching it properly.

Do you have any pictures?

Why is your jpipe still on? 2 bolts and a clamp and free up yourself that working space.

Because I'm lazy? Haven't tried since the last time, will take it off. Thought I'd be able to get it easily from the bottom.

LOL Lazy is right

Says you Mike!

LOOOOOOL

Stupid question time. Does this bracket only bolt on 1 way?





It doesn't line up with all the other mounts installed. Can I just jack to motor up to get the 1/2" required?

So close, yet so far.....