Coolant sensor is bad!!



What...

Am I to late?

Lol why do you say that jay?

And 2Gb Eclipses are rice, right?



Inside joke, I suppose

Haha, board joke more like it!

They are mitsubishis idea of marketing to the rice croud.. But thats another story.

My opnion..

Tune seems to be the issue.. But I dont think we need to point the fingure and... Insult the tuner. It sounds like something went wrong... Not was wrong. The log shows a really messed up tune. And as inexperienced as the tuner was... Hes not an idiot and its not hard to tune a car to be reliable. I think something happened and was throwing the car off. Stephan has helped me a few times with my tune.. And after every bit of advise... He strongly repeats to watch the afrs and knock. If manni was watching these, the car may still be running. And all this stupid nonsense would be avoided. Anyone who finished biulding or tunning a car.. Knows that watching these values is a must. Even the "dsm gods" like Magnus and Buscher have examples of customer cars failing after a job. Its the problem with working on other peoples cars and a good reason people should learn to biuld and tune their own cars.

I won't comment on most of what's been said in this thread but I will say that you shouldn't run injectors near max duty cycle in general, let alone in a daily driver. That's just bad practice for so many reasons, including things like temperature change. If the injectors were pushed so close to the edge that a 5-10C drop in temperature caused issues then that's not a good tune. Plain and simple.

You shouldn't have to sit there and focus all your attention on your gauges in a street car - it should be get in and go. Anyone blaming Manny for not watching the gauges closely enough needs to rethink their point of view. Just because you do it in your hacked together homebrew tune doesn't mean someone should have to make a point of doing it in their daily driver street car with an appropriate tune that they (paid to have) done for them.

Disclaimer: I did not look at the log files/into the specifics of the tune - I am going based on what was mentioned within this thread.





Also...just a hunch, but I don't think the SD was smooth enough

Spot on Sal.

Yep that was a huge factor on his MAF car

It obviously was - look at what happened!

The point is that sh!t happens.. And we should learn from it.. And move on. As tuners, as builders, as drivers..... And as friends!

Not attacking and insulting each other!

There are only a few of us here... So if were not friends sapporting each other
.. Then whats the point of Andrew keeping the club going?

Totally agree with you on there.

Modifying a car has tons of ways of going wrong. As soon as there is bad blood, things go to hell and here comes the drama. I hate drama with a passion. Many of my ex's know this for a fact lol

We all do things differently, expect different outcomes, go through different stepping stones and brick walls. Important thing is getting back on the tarmac. I'm sure Manny will find a way to get her back out, with the help of a friendly board. In this type of hobby, you need buddies; it's half the fun of doing it.

Best thing I've heard on here in awhile.

So the motors out! Hopefully headed to rainbow tmmw.

Pulled her with the trans still on but I didn't care about dinging up yhe Bay since I'm painting it again

http://imgur.com/hE4Uz0t
http://imgur.com/ctRqibu

Cool beans! Do you not have power steering or you removed it before pulling the engine?

Removed it before pulling the motor was a pain last time I pulled it with it on

Figured, but was just curious. I am tempted to do the backet that puts it on the back of the block, much prefer the power steering being there than the alt.

Another reason i strayed away was last time i bent the power steering bracket and had a nasty whine at start up

Good to see progress is being made.
Can't wait to see answers once long block is taken apart.
Keep us posted.

Did you decide on whether you're repainting the engine bay?

Yea Alex Paul has told me to not expect any quick answers as you all may be aware machine shops are busy around this time

I will update as soon as he lets me know...expecting a week atleast

Gui i do plan to paint the bay again it is going to return back to the factory white...i am going to do an abs delete to clean up the bay and make prep and paint that much easier without the lines. I am planning on stripping/sanding as much of this current chameleon color or all if possible then i really want to bondo some areas where i noticed the bay may have had some wavy areas id hope to have a somewhat smooth bay finish. I will also prime and paint after that one possible idea in the air is do i want the weld in and patch areas of the firewall to make it as "shaven" as possible along with any other visibly cut outs in the bay ie where the factory intercool piping was plumbed.

Also need to locate a power steering leak hoping i dont have to rebuild the rack

Popped in to the new RTM and Dynotune Racing today to drop the trans to be hot tanked...place is looking great!

Their is a quite a lengthy list of small tedious tasks i have to complete along with a dresser i promised to build the sister in law for the soon to come niece/nephew but i have a bold hope to have her running the first week of april i wont be upset if it takes til the end of april though

Who was the member that mentioned they could get factory paint in a spray can

I don't know who said that but my experience is that any spray can paint is never as durable as a real 2 or 3 stage paint. If you want the best results then get a half quart of Dupont Chromax base mixed to match the oem paint, a professional clear and a small HPLV gun, even a newbie painter can make some very nice results with this combo, that was my experience anyway.

You can get the factory paint in a spray can from NAPA. It's about $35 or so or it was 6 years ago when I last bought one.

For an engine bay it should be fine and it does have hardener, clear, etc. in it.

Im assuming this is the route you went when you refreshed the bay Jason?

I'd love to hear opinions from others with pics over the years of people who may have rattle canned it

This x100. Much cleaner, nicer and more durable.

It depends on the colour. The bay in my old red 1G I rattled canned and it came out okay, but it was red... White, if you use sub par paint or clear it will yellow out and look shitty.

Like Jason said, you can do a pretty nice job with a $35 HVLP gun. Get a quality clear, and it will look brand new and be pretty durable.

If I had to do it again, that's the only way I would approach it.

Then thats the approach i will be taking...once the bay is prepped im going to frame a booth around it with 2x4s and poly and add a circulation fan for negative pressure

You don't need to do that for an engine bay. Seems overkill to me

can't wait! More 2gs out and about will be a long time coming.

If you're gonna do that then make sure the fan you use is explosion proof.

I don't follow Sal lol

There's nothing to follow...make sure you use an explosion proof fan.



Source: http://www.industrialfansdirect.com/explosion-proof.html

The vapours from the paint and other solvents you might use are dangerous and could be/are flammable. You need to make sure you use a fan that is explosion proof (i.e. won't create a spark/explode/etc.).

Any tips/pointers for stripping as much paint as possible? as of now im considering just getting an orbital sander and going to town

In places where it's just clean paint and no rust all you really need to do is scuff it up. You do not need to (or really even want to) go all the way down to bare metal. Remember... existing paint is the best primer.

If there is rust the easiest way is to grind it down to bare metal and fix it.

A lot of the new paints are water based, including what I used not an issue any longer really.

And yes Manny, my previous post detailed exactly how I did it. I also just taped off the car, these new water based paints are not nearly as a pain in the arse to work with than the old paints.

If the current paint is solid and not flaking you can just scuff it and apply a degreaser to it.

Scuff/Sand/prime everything, let it dry then the next day you can lay your base and then clear 15-20 minutes later followed by a second/third coat of clear if you like. The more clear you put on, the more buffer room you have for paint correction in the future.



It's the only way, any rust left will spread, there's a reason they call rust cancer.

So a little update

Heard back from Rainbow engines and the conclusion is a foreign material got into the motor and scored the bearings etc waiting for him to dig into the head and see how far it got

Looks like the motors coming apart again

as of now the plan is disassemble, hot tank, replace bearings and reassemble

Congrats! Will Rainbow cover it under warranty ?

If I remember correctly, Rainbow only did the block and not complete assembly (i.e. head to block, etc.) and so I'm going to guess probably not as it would be a game of he said-she said unless it was something that was in the pan and could only have gotten into the pan during block assembly...

But it was knocking like aspun bearing.. Scored bearings dont knock.

ah totally forgot that Stephan T did the final assembly.
Actually, i also did my own final assembly and my machine shop offered no warranty as a result. Thankfully my motor runs pretty good so far.

I would be happy if Rainbow would at least offer a partial discount for re-doing short block with an exception of being paid for complete long block assembly this time.

I don't think this is fair to rainbow cause as Sal said there is no concrete way to place blame on contaminants like that.