As someone who does engine calibration for an OEM I can tell you that with drive-by-wire there are many, many more maps, parameters, emissions controls, etc. that come in to play for an ICE. For a purely electric vehicle there's not any of that so there's no reason there would or should be a delay. The only change I could see there being would be for different driving modes which would basically just change your torque multiplier to deliver more or less torque per degree of foot rotation.

Drive-by-wire allows for an extreme level of engine control and fine tuning that isn't present with cable throttle, including over things like emissions, which is why the car doesn't always respond right away. In today's day and age the driver doesn't always get what the driver wants if cars are to meet all the emissions, performance, and safety standards required of them. Delay with DBW is far more of an issue in AT-vehicles than vehicles with an MT or DCT just by nature of how the transmissions work. It's not necessarily that OEMs are trying to dull down pedal response, they're trying to make sure the vehicles have exceptional drivability which includes but is not limited to no clunks, bumps, surging, etc. and also smooth and quick response. With an AT - especially the newer ones with many gears - you almost always get shifts and so torque and other parameters need to be controlled to ensure smooth shifting and hardware longevity.

The other day I was watching how TB works in RX7 and was surprised how it was designed. Basically there are 3 plates and one opens first and second and third follows it later, it's all mechanical. Apparently it was designed to increase air velocity at low RPMs for more linear acceleration through out the RPM range.




Same trick can be used in Drive-by-wire TB but with single much larger plate, computer can limit throttle angle in reference to engine RPM to keep power more linear.

I wonder if you eliminated the ECU out of the equation and monitored speed and throttle position using an Arduino and having it make the adjustments based on throttle position (stepper motor to TB) and watch speed for cruise adjustements.



I digresss.

I do agree DBW isn't perfect. I have an annoying issue somewhere in the 10-15% range on my 300C. Occasionally she will act like I am at full throttle for about a half second. (only happens when I am taking off and I think mostly as I am making a corner). And it is a little slow to respond.

No point in going to DBW if you're not going to take advantage of it and do a lot of extra calibration that will make the car way more driveable (not something doable with the stock ECU or DSMLink). If you're going to keep it at basically a 1:1 ratio (50% pedal = 50% throttle) then just stick with cable throttle and call it a day. Especially in a manual trans vehicle.

K.I.S.S.

I'm not a huge DWB guy either, both my Ford and the wife's Jeep have it and it just feels odd. Hell blipping the throttle in my car feels funny.

However most manufacturers don't really care about performance. I know the system could be improved on.

Friken Fraken. Chuck Lavoie is feeling annoyed.

I went to my buddy's shop and checked out the car on the hoist. Things loog good. Tie rods may have a minute amount of play but almost negligible. Will change them before an alignment. All other parts look good up front. Nice and toight.

Driving home.. started getting a rubbing sound. We did nothing other than jack the front end up on the alignment machine. GRRRRR...

It's coming from under the shifter area. Definitely drive shaft related as any rolling of the car makes the rubbing sound (does not change with RPM or Clutch In/Out). I can feel it in the shifter. Video for your pleasure:



That's it! She is gone for the month. Don't want to see her. I'm only really annoyed because the 300C developed a thumping under braking so both cars have an issue.

Just to clarify, the speed of the driveshaft rotation affects sound duration. (nothing else affects it)

On way home, found deserted road. did 100 to 10 hard on brakes in the 300C, 4 times. The brake thumping is nearly gone now.

You've got a carrier bearing there.

Transfer case.

Maybe check for play in the bearing? Fluid in the tcase?

Thanks. I will check them out. Noticed no one carries the front carrier bearing. Out of stock everywhere.

Update: Nevermind. I see we can just use the rear one for the front.

Is anyone running the 2/3 aluminum shaft? I'm interested. Do I still need two bearings? or does that eliminate 1?

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/impor...950hp-3-5-aluminum-heavy-duty-driveshaft

It eliminates the first two sections.

Little update. Have been busy. Haven't done much to Bixley. Toying with getting Ali's tranny for her seeing I wrecked a seal on current one and third is getting notchy. But I like the dogbox idea.

The rad ducting now keeps the temps at 183 on the highway no matter what speed.

A bonus, I have seen a .4 to .6 volt increase from the alternator since removing that plate that blocked the second fan hole. 13.8 on the highway consistent (use to be 13.1 to 13.3) Guess more airflow around it is keeping it cooler and better regulator performance.

The rubbing noise went away after letting the car sit. It showed up for 2 mins during a drive, but went away again. I'll eventually check into it. No time yet!

So I decided to try and tackle the leaks (hot side).
Thanks to Garrett for coming over and helping out.
Got the manifold, turbo and dp seperated with 0 broken bolts.

By the time we stopped chatting about about cars and did some work dry fitting everything and placing all new gaskets, I couldn't find the anti-seize so called it a night.

This morning, I found it and go to install the OEM turbo bolts. Start tightening the 1st one (back left).. It's not binding as I put it in. I get it snug and set torque wrench to 20lb. I don;t even think I got 10 before it stripped the threads on the turbo housing. Ugh.

Same thing happened to the left front.

I kept going, the right side buttoned up just fine. WTH?

I took the old arp studs, tossed it into the front left and it bit and is holding. But that back one is toast. In the picture below it's just sitting in the hole.

Luckily the bottom is exposed enough I will try and buy a longer bolt from fastener place and put a nut underneath. Was so close to a perfect install!

The only other issues is the the head has 1 snapped stud and in another hole, the part helicoil fell out (both issues pre-existed my purchase of car) but the threads in the back were good enough to put the stud in. So only missing 1. >.>

At this point.. I will wait for the engine to blow before attempting to fix the head. I don't want to separate the head from block.

DSM SNOWBALL!

I found this: (which leads to more)


Then this:


Especially this: (yes. Near fuel pump)


Who needs clearly identifiable power wires!


Weight Savings:


Time to tackle some surface rust. things look good otherwise. Gotta grommet that one hole missing one.


MOAR weight savings:

WOW big work! Nice! What was that connector for?

im guessing factory amp under passenger seat, all my wires for mine were the same colour

It is the factory amp harness.

You should print yourself a copy of the body/chassis wiring diagram's found here; mitsubishilinks.com

Yes Sir. Factory Amp. Can't believe he just twisted and left unprotected. Actually. I can.. this car has had many surprises.

I want to remove that whole cable but it runs up into the dash and not sure I want to get that far and tear up some factory harness.

I hate the 50lb power leather seats. Would like to find something cozy in the 25-30lb range. No power needed

At this point, I think the battery relocation has to happen.

Soldering its a tough skill to master and tape is expensive

Crimp connectors is all I use

Marretts fo life!

Marrettes are super expensive.....unless you steal them from work.

Connectors are expensive.. even from China.

Solder and heatshrink. $0.01 / connection.

I only use marretts when I have to join a large gauge wire like when I miss calculated the main power wire that goes directly from the battery.

Wrap your professional union in some dollar store electrical tape and never look back!

BTW..there is a cure for the curse of the dsm "snowball", just buy a Subaru

Haha, this is enjoyable!

This shall not turn into a roast the Subaru guy.
This shall not turn into a roast the Subaru guy.
This shall not turn into a roast the Subaru guy.
This shall not turn into a roast the Subaru guy.
This shall not turn into a roast the Subaru guy.
This shall not turn into a roast the Subaru guy.
This shall not turn into a roast the Subaru guy.

- I hate the sound of flat 4.

- If I gave you only ARP head studs, what's the highest horsepower stock Subaru engine can handle before snapping a rod? 400HP? Highest recorded stock 6 bolt. 585whp and it never blew up.

- My buddies grandma owns a Subaru. Along with 2,000,000+ other people. Very unique

- Those new ones look just like a civic!!

- I don't want to be that Subaru guy that recommends everyone buy a Subaru. You know that guy I'm talking about right?

As you were gentlemen.

P.S. I would buy a Subaru as a daily but not my play car. Honestly though, how many WRX engines make it to 300K with no rebuilds or the engine sounding horrible.

Subaru's have Evo beat in the interior luxury department, but everything else I would go Evo first (if EVO owners didn't overprice their cars)

I bought an 8 year old TSI AWD for 11k. How much do Evo guys want for 8 year old car? Oh yeah, 20K+ Ridiculous.

My insurance is also 15$ a month.

Everything you just said is my Gospel!

Biggest +1 I'll ever give.

Bravo!

I love urabus's ...... when they are on Fire!

Yeah I am with Mike! Completely agree!

Pfff, ring lands will be gone long before 400hp.

I have a Subaru and it sounds like it's gonna blow up at 6k rpm with all of it's 165hp glory.

Also the stock 6 bolt record is 742whp

Half decent Evo 8's are going for $10-12k now in the states, so if you want to import it, tack on an extra 30%.

I shall add that to the FAQ! Is there a link I can state as the source?

Oops my bad, 749.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzR2fG-cDxQ

And what about my own favorite 2G 7bolt?

I don't think Corey Bowers ever dyno'ed his 2g but he went mid 9's on it, I want to say 9.79 and I think his car was around 2800lbs, that would put it at approximately 580hp.

Crickets from the Subaru Fans..

So stock 4G63 proven to make 374.5 HP / Litre.
Any other takers? lol.

And while on the topic...what about new aluminum beast in town the 4B11T ?

More updates.

Tablet Mount
Fist thing, as for the tablet mount that bolts to the seat bolt. Don't do it. Unless you NEVER put the passenger seat down to access the back. It prevents the seat from reaching full forward to engage the lock to return the seat to seating position. I had a ride home with the seat sliding forward and backward the whole way. UGH. I removed the mount.

Looking for
I am looking for a couple pieces. I may try mitsu to see if they still have them.

#1: Fuel Pump Metal Plate cover and the clips and screws. Mine starting rusting at the back I can only assume due to the split negative cable running across it.



#2: Clips for the HVAC control panel. I lost one side one.



#3: Floor Grommets

#4: Floor Secret Panel. Below drivers floor pan and allows access to the side channel in the belly of the vehicle. Mine is rusty. I may bring it into krown to get them to spray down that channel while I have it open.




I picked up a new stereo. One of those no CD types. Half Size. Weight SAVINGS!




Went to cash, they ringed it up at $129. Nuh uh. Go to customer service, the guy says ok, we are refunding 27 something. I said, what happened to the 10$ off wrong advertised price? BAM! 99$ stereo. Bluetooth, USB and sounds better than the previous system setup.




I truncated the harness that ran out to the stock amp location. Those are now tucked into short piece of loom and safe.




Cleaned up the back more. This is how the amp will be mounted once I create the fiberglass rear seat area cover.




Properly Run cables INSIDE the tracks provided by the manufacturer.




Gauge Holders (PVC Pipe and Velcro). Still need to wire them.




General overview of the cleaning job. Oh yeah. And megan short shifter installed. 50%. I could install it both ways, but one way brought the shifter way too close to the stereo. I assume that was backwards so I flipped it.



Curious as to why they put so many rubber grommets in the floor.

If you can't get the fuel pump cover I can coat it, done a few others.

I might have some of those HVAC clips, have a few of those plates kicking around.

Nice job on the wiring!

Agreed nice progress!!

I should have an extra fuel pump cover somewhere; if not you can have the one off my car. I need to make a new one to clear the -AN lines anyway....

I doubt either are rust free but it'd just be surface rust. A bit of paint and she'd be golden.

Thanks all. I started her up today. She warmed up without stalling. I changed the oil afterward. Not a fan of these tiny mitsu filters. WIX are big compared to them.

I didn't notice that the old oil filter gasket stayed stuck on the housing. Put on new filter, Fill oil, start her up, rev to 2K and PSSSSSSsssSSSSss... Turn off car. Amazing how much of a mess oil under pressure can make.

Ready for a test drive tonight.