Its how much the filter not how big they are. OEM filters are the best.....period.

Size doesn't matter applies true here.

----------------------------------------------------------

Still having the running hot issue at idle or low speed in 30C+. Sits at about 216-223 degrees with fan running. (tried opening hood for a couple minutes, no change)

When it's 21-22 out idle temps more around 213.

Anything above 80kph keeps it at 180-183 no matter how hot it is out.

I could help it out by running heat in cabin, but that is insane in 30C. Maybe time to do the water pump and timing belt and get some spal fans. I still can't bring myself to remove the AC condenser. Would love to get AC working in it, but that is a pipe dream I think.

Pressure test your coolant lines? Sounds like air in the system

Thanks Mike. Will do. Also, I don't remember a jiggle pin in my thermostat. And I read position matters.

I did another tune last night. Car is running great minus one thing. Tip In. The deceleration is so bad when it goes lean, causes your head to move forward for that split second. Not smooth.

I have played with increasing tip in. Makes it worse.
Tried stock. better but still bad enough to accelerating annoying. 0 across the board, almost as bad. Nothing I do seems to solve the tip in! (WB hits 17 to ---) for that split second.

I'm going to boost leak test again as my BoostEst and Map are about 5psi off after 6000rpm. But from what I read, lot of variables affect BoostEst so not a real deal breaker if off.

Actually it causes really bad bucking in low rpm. Higher rpm not so apparent.

If I remember correctly, if I force open loop mode, drives great!

Fuel Pressure was off. Set FP and from scratch new tune. Global Fuel and Deadtime with some smoothing of the SD table values has greatly improved things. Went from -10 Global fuel and -25ms deadtime to -25% fuel and 160ms deadtime.

Needs tweaking at WOT, but I am in the ballpark with 0 Knock.

I think this is as good as things get till cams.
Need to deal with tie rods and some rattle / rough vibration on decel (in gear) between 2400 and 2200.

That is all. No new progress otherwise. Itching for meth, but I think cams first. (Kelford 272's)

If you are just running a crappy slim fan than it definitely could be that especially because of the fact that once your moving fast enough it's not an issue anymore.

Here is the whine I was talking about on Facebook.



Camera doesn't pick it up well over the exhaust. But it's almost as loud as the exhaust in person.

To catch everybody up on why I parked the car in storage for now:

"There is a worrisome whine coming from the engine bay. Sounds like a roots supercharger. I am hoping it's not the timing belt but not taking any chances.

Also tie rods need to be done along with 4 wheel alignment. And the tires are shot.

And finally something in the driveline doesn't sound right. (Suspect tranny or diff). I'll have to drain fluids and check.

Its temporary storage. Just don't have the time to dedicate to it right now and am playing it safe. I'll post a video of it on dsm board."

Gonna be a hot september so gonna save what is left of the tires for October/November

What timing belt are you using? Did you recheck the tension? Does a pin still go into the tensioner?

Haven't had a chance to look at it. New lady friend. The woman is always priority and the talon approves (1st woman in the dsm, it blew it's dipstick in retaliation. 2nd woman to get a ride in it.. It blew it's PTU and only let me drive with 2 cylinders)... This one.. car is well behaved. Keeper!

Will find time in October. Thanks for insight on where to start looking.

I'm going to pull the alternator and power steering pump belts and see if it goes away. If not, I will look at timing belt stuff. Could be water pump? Oil Pump? It's not quite power steering pump noise, but similar. Just higher pitched

So I fixed the loud exhaust noise. Two bolts on manifold to turbo were loose and stripped. Used different thread bolts (10.9) to get it settled down for now.

Cutting out power to Sub. Fixed.

Added Manifold Blanket. Amazing heat difference in the bay.

The whomp whomp noise is still there in the front though. Lugs are tight.

So ripping on the highway about to dive into a corner, there is a loud bang bang bang along the underside of the car. Look back, couldn't tell and was committed to the corner so I didn't stop to find out what it was. It was big (size of my fist?) Drove very carefully for a few KM. No negative side effects. Oil Pressure Ok. Boosts Ok. Fuel is ok. Coolant Ok. Steering, clutch and driveline seem ok. I still need to get underneath to look. Maybe she is just shedding weight for me.

And this morning.. counting my lucky stars. This little chevy cobalt was on my ass as I am getting on to an on ramp. Get it in third, slowly start to accelerate (this car still on my ass).. I mash it. Hit 7K just after the apex and went to shift into 4th. 9000rpm! As if it let me go into 2nd?!!! Ugh. Luckily I was back on the clutch fast enough. No damage. But scary as hell. First time ever missing that shift. >.<

More updates.

Two exhaust manifold bolts came loose again. Destroyed the gasket. Shredded it.So much so that the ring was sitting in the turbo hotside (fished it out) Also burnt new turbo blanket on the underside.

I got new bolts and nuts and grinded the nuts to sit nearly flush under the hot side flange. Had spare gasket luckily.

Hit 270,000 KM last night pulling into driveway. Things were good till this morning. Timing belt making more noise now. Found a couple strands of fiber under the timing cover and the belt has some shiny spots on it. Time to replace. Stay tuned for the timing belt change photos.

I didn't want to do belt until I got cams, lifters, cam gears, bigger injectors (E85?), but that will run too much and blow this years budget.

But I really want cams. I am maxed for power on what I have.
28 PSI ok. 29PSI knock.
Max timing 12 degrees near redline under WOT. > 12 = knock

What your injector duty cycle?

Currently 79-82% @ 27 PSI.

Running 11.6 AFR (10.9 to 11.1 didn't change knock at all when I tried to go higher with boost or timing). That still stems from the WB being so far back I really want to move it up, but not until I get new Turbo and O2 housing.

Are you using the oem turbo bolts and washers? The washers are the key to staying tight.

The hot side housing is stripped. I needed longer bolts so I can put a nut on and am using 10.9 bolts from Ottawa Fastener and Supply. I just tried the bolts themselves last time as it bit into the messed up threads. Didn't hold. Now using nuts that are ground to hug the curve on the hot side housing.

Using the Mitsu washers on all of them. This setup is holding fine for now. Still undecided on Holset vs FP Red vs Rebuild PT6162 (Flows roughly 64lbs. I'm only hitting 43).

Hard to beat the price on an old school red currently, I'm flowing a little over 60lbs/min at 35 psi, rated up to 65.

You using FP Manifold? Or Stock?
You running 35psi on 94? Or meth injection also?

an old Slowboy manifold with the WG port on it.

35 with 94 + meth.

Don't rebuild a pt6152. The thrust washers are a poor design. precision should have never made large journal bearing turbos.

Jay pushes more from that red then most will attemp, and there are few reds making that kinda flow. 35psi is a lot for stock internals.

A hx35 On the other hand will make about 60lbs/min around 30psi. And last longer then your car. A hx40 Will touch 70lbs/m Both turbos are still being found for under 500 bucks. But do require some extra installation expenses.

My PT is still solid. No shaft play. Been on there for over 35000 KM? Fed from Oil Housing with Earls Filter. Hit 0 PSI at 2500rpm and 25 PSI by 4900rpm

I think I will go with the FP Red and FP Manifold. I don't feel like getting crazy with fitment issues. I do love the idea of Holset (cheap and people getting great results).

I have reduced my end goal to be near 600 WHP.
I'm already bored with 360-400.

Side note: My south bend clutch is doing well, but it has become grabby. Very little clutch travel from not engaged to fully engaged. Hard to slip it. Makes launching a big turbo a little harder. Have only attempted 5 launches since I got it. Bogged every single one. >.< (not using launch control)

So little update 2 months later. I went to store the car and the timing belt noise was horrendous. Quickly put it back in the garage. I just got around to doing it now.

So far it has gone well. Cursing at the amount of room they gave us to work, but overall, not bad. Broke the timing belt cover 1G single cover in a 2G) but it will repair easily.

Looks like the tensioner was failing. Belt had a lot of slack and it was rubbing right below the oil sprocket. I have a full replacement kit going in.

I did buy Fidenza adjustable cam gears and I was hoping the cam gear lock (plastic wedge you stick in between would be enough to hold while I crack 1 nut loose and replace, but no such luck. I don't want to push it. I didn't want to remove the valve cover till I did lifters and cams. If anyone has a tip on how to remove Cam Gears without removing cover, let me know! Photos to come.

Those cam gear bolts are torqued quite high. Youll want a wrench on the cam.
I find it only takes about 2 minutes to remove the VC....

I've got them off with the plastic wedge and an impact but that's after they'd been removed once. If they're still tight from the factory, I doubt it. I broke a crescent wrench trying to hold a cam back before while removing them, was scared as sh!t it was going to snap the cam but luckily they were just stock anyway.

Why don't you just wait and do the sprockets and cams and lifters at the same time.

Its 10 little bolts and 4 plug wires. Man up it takes 5 mins to do it right.

Lol Stephen. It's because I never got the gasket kit for the valve cover and it leaks a little as it is. Didn't want to disturb anything.

I was going to wait, but I managed to get the bolts off

The back one scared me having to use two box wrenches to get leverage.

Everything is almost back together. I am getting conflicting In/Pound tension setting for the tension pulley on the belt.

Some say 24. Jafro says 26.4 Service Tech manual says 31. Seeing my Torque wrench only goes as low as 30 inch pounds. I did 30. I have to still put the hydraulic tensioner on, test and reassemble everything.

I've never once used a torque wrench on the pulley, just good ol loctite and a feel for when it's decently tight.

I'm with Jay on that one.

I found a neat trick for proper tension. Pulling on the happy face pulley tool, soon as the pin in the auto tensioner gets a little loose, back off ever so slightly and tighten tensioner pulley bolt to 27 ft/lbs. The pin should be snug to pull out.

The auto tensioner with pin in is at 0.15 inch. Which is in the area they wanted 0.15 to 0.18 for operation.

So.. a wrap up. I thought I would be done by Thursday night. 3 days later.... It's done. But the whirring still is apparent.

Painted bolt heads to make things prettier (yay OCD)


Added new Cam Gears


Lined up!



Painted other parts


I start the car... Sounds about right. (Next year new lifters!) This is without accessory belts on.



The next video doesn't do it justice, but there is a loud whine once I hook up accessories. Note: I tried alternator only.. little bit extra whine but nothing major. But power steering pump also, adds a lot. Watch above then immediately watch this one.


So that is still an issue.

Also, during the warm up, I noticed.. battery voltage 12.0 - 12.1 FK!

Dead Alternator? I hadn't logged in over a month nor before I started tearing it apart.

Only other thing I can think is I painted the adjustment arm to the alternator and that was a source of ground to the block. All connectors look fine.

If you are worried about the alt ground. Simply do a voltage drop test on it.

My adjustment arm is powder coated and hasn't caused any issue. It should be getting plenty of ground through the pivot bolt.

Oem alt?

Sandras auto would hover between 11.6 and 12.0 volts.. But other then pulsing headlights during power draws... It ran fine.

Untill I swapped in the manual ecu with link. It would stall when she came to a stop. All I did was swap in a used Saturn alt and it runs better then ever.

Voltage Drop Test

+ = 0.08
- = 0.06



Not sure. previous owner went through 3 of them in a year. I ran for two years with no issues (made heat shielding for it)

I am looking at the Saturn Alternator. I still have my AC compressor though and not interested in doing that this season (relocation). Did you put it in stock location? Did you have to grind some housing away? Anything else other than that? Thanks!

Gonna order a Reman Pump and Saturn Alt if Jay says it's easy for stock location. I really would like to run the single wire install version.. but.. will do the pigtail if needed.


MotorCity Reman + 1 Wire Regulator (Self Exciting)

99$ American for the Alt, 29$ for the self exciting regulator. This way I just run the Positive wires and nothing else. (Sounds easy)

*****ATTENTION MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE OWNERS*****
If you are purchasing this alternator to fit your Mitsubishi Eclipse, you will need to add the special SE 1 wire Voltage Regulator, available below to your order.

Yes I had to grind the block and the alt casing. It wasn't difficult.. If you take your time and follow the right ups.

Both my DSMs run 1 wire off the pigtail. And the main battery wire. Runs fine for me.

Darn it RTM... out of stock! /sniff

Does it matter ACDelco Remy Bosch? (looking 96 Saturn SC2 alternators)

I need the harness from RTM though.....

I might just go to Ascot Alternators in Ottawa and get this one rebuilt. I have a shield for it anyway. Should last me a year or two.

Buy the one with the best warranty. They are all rebuilt in the South American plant so it really doesn't matter.

I bought all mine from my local pick in pull. I get the pigtail aswell.

I was just using the sc2 twin cam coupe.. But I've ran 2 sl1 alts and they work fine.

I did have a rebuilt oem given to me new.. It lasted 2months

Alternator:

I just want to get the car to storage. At this point a rebuild will do me fine until next year when I can look at it.

Power Steering Pump
I have been reading that aftermarket power steering pumps have been known to not fit (fittings). I don't see the little pin on top that the wire goes to in the photos either.

Auto Parts Express wanted $273 for it (and the only one is in BC).. 60$ core charge... not sold. Posted in the Wanted to Buy