I've noticed over the last couple of days that when I've got the heater turned on, it makes a whining sound that changes pitch with the revs. "That's weird" I thought, and I ignored it (i.e. if I don't think about it, maybe it will go away...)

Today on the way to work, I got a bunch of warning lights coming on together. The battery light, the brake light and the coolant light would all come on (not at full bright) and go off together, depending on what revs I was at, whether I was braking, etc. Water temp was fine, the car seemed to drive OK, etc. I wasn't smart enough to check the battery voltage on the AFC, but I can do that on the way home.

Searching the archives here revealed that it's probably my alternator that's shot. Is this correct? Why would is cause the other warning lights to come on, or my heater fan to make engine music?

When my alternator was almost dead it was making the same engine music.

All the lights coming on points at a power level problem.

I'd say it's a real good chance your alternator is almost toast.

Hey JEFF....it seems that all 3 of those lights are connected the battery light circuit.

Your alternator is GONE, better change it quick my didn't last a day after it did that.

Good luck

Well, I was supposed to be driving to Michigan this evening to visit my girlfriend. I'm just glad this happened *before* I left rather than somewhere between London and Windsor (i.e. in hell )

I just talked to Adam Clay at Eastway Chrysler can get new ones for $435, and rebuilt ones for $317.

I'm sure Canadian Tire or Napa or something can get them for less, but there are some pretty strong objections in the archives here to using a non-new or non-oem piece (apparantly they don't nearly as long as the original).

Anyone have any recommendations either way, or better yet, some prices from various places?

Canadian Tire - $210

I strongly agree with the fact that the non-oem and non-new pieces work like crap due to my past experiences with them.

Just get the good one from CT... it's got a 5 year warantee. Who cares if it dies a year later... it's still under warantee.

I've had mine in for a year now (I think) with no heat sheilds on my turbo or exhaust mani and it's fine. If it dies I don't care. It takes lik an hour to swap a replacement in.

[ November 30, 2001: Message edited by: Mike Jackson ]

I agree. I bought one from Cdn Tire with a 5 year warranty. But the warranty doesn't cover the tow expense.

Good alternator thought.. rebuilt.. but looks nice and shiny.

Rob

My lights came on about 8 months ago and my alt. is still going strong.. Kind of annoying with those lights on all the time though!

Greg

I had the exact same thing happening to me a few weeks ago.

I thought it was the alternator myself. Untill I checked the Battery terminals, the ground terminal was lose and wasn't making good contact, got a wrench tighten the terminal, haven't had a problem since then.

Hey guys.
I also have the 90 amp altinator from crappy with the 5 year warranty. I had it for about 10 months then.....Pooof. I got another one no prob. Had to change it in the parking lot though..
My car is a non- turbo and I don't have the heat sheilds on. My mechanic friend said that it might have happened from the heat??? Donno??
Any who, just my experiance..

Matt

The C.T. alternators have gone up in price. They are now $260. They started having them rebuilt by Bosch recently. I'm not sure if the 90amp is still available..

I'm on my 3rd in 6 months.

*If* you get a new alternator and it still doesn't solve the problem, check all your ground wires.

Had this problem recently where warning lights would be glowing half bright... turns out to be a crappy ground.

Make sure the contacts aren't oxidized as well.
A little sanding will allow good metal to metal contact.

I paid $180 from a local shop.
Its been in for 3 months now and NO problems *knock on wood*

Canadian Tire ordered the wrong one in for my 95 turbo TWICE, so I told them to forget it.

I currently have this problem in australia. All the dash lights came on very bright, and it was all due to the regulator failing. The temperature guage on the car was going to 3/4 HOT, and both driving light bulbs blew out due to the oversending of voltage to various electrics in the car. Currently Waiting for the Hyundai regulator to come from out of state and it's been such a boring weekend waiting for it to arrive on monday.

You can still get the 90amp from Crapy. It comes to $252.31 after tax and casting. since you can get a new one if it dies in 5 years thats a good deal. 5 whole years of free alternaters is great, just make sure you kill it just before the 5 years is up.

Rebuild ones = crap.
Period.

The local shop in Hamilton priced out what it would cost to rebuild one for me using actual Mitsu parts, and the regulator alone was $200.

So, if you think you're getting something "truly rebuilt like new", think again.
I went through two rebuilt ones in 8 months.

Crappy Tire warranty is fine, if you are comfortable with the swap, don't mind a tow, or have a spare car around...

I finally bought an OEM one from Adam Clay, for a few bucks less than quoted above, shipping included. So ask him to toss in shipping at least.

But, the biggest problem... is the heat.
If you have removed your lower heat shield, get one back on there... the downpipe is simply too close to the Alternator, to expect it to last under those conditions without protection.

You know what, I had that happen on my probe. The voltage regulator went and it can do a lot worse than just blowing out your driving lights i.e ecu. So you better do it as soon as possible and save further damage for yourself, oh yeah, my battery died shortly after. I have a voltage gauge on the factory dashboard and the thing skyrocketed way past the highest point. I also know the feeling of reving up the engine and once the revs are up, it's like I have high beams on. Yeah, my advice go do it soon

The car is in my garage dead right now, I haven't driven it since this happened last week. In fact, I barely made it home that night because it was stalling all over the place, throwing check engine lights (I *really* hope that's related to the alternator problem!), etc.

I called Adam Clay at Eastway earlier in the week and I sprung for the brand new OE alternator. I make alot of long trips down to Michigan (for reasons described above ) and I can't afford to have it fail halfway between here and there. If that wasn't the case, or I had a second car to rely on, I would definitely go for the much cheaper CT unit.

Anyways, it should arrive tomorrow, and I'm still deciding whether I want to put this in myself over the weekend or just tow it to Magnus. I've never touched any of the belt driven stuff before so I don't really know what I'm doing. Any offers to come over to my place and show me what to do???

Thanks for the advice all, I'll keep you updated.

You back in Waterloo yet? If so I can swing by and if it's as easy as on the 1Gs I could help ya put it in.

Thanks for the offer Mike, but nope, I'm not back in Waterloo until the beginning of Jan. I'm in the Markham area.

I got the alternator in yesterday, and the car is running like a champ again. It was actually pretty easy to install, so it turns out I didn't need any help.

Thanks again for all the advice/help!

While the car was down I also did a mad port on the O2 sensor housing (took off the exhaust housig and O2 housing together so I didn't have to drain any fluids ) and now the 14B spools up like my old T25 and I'm no longer creeping. I floored my car for the first time in four months today. Fun stuff.

[ December 09, 2001: Message edited by: Jeff Mitchell ]

im having the same problem in mine but my power steering went as well, so does this mean its the belt and not the alternator itself?