ok, please, tell me it's not a crankwalk, it's only a clutch slave cylander leak.

When I pakred my car last night, no problem at all. When I try to start my car just now, the clutch just went to the floor. Then I found it's dripping.... (from red to blue arror)




from FAQ: "Another problem with crankwalk is that the crankshaft may move so much as to literally tear up and destroy the 2G crankshaft angle sensor. This problem usually manifests itself as a ticking noise coming from the timing belt area, as the sensor is literally and slowly ground away by the crankshaft. Any such noise should be investigated right away to prevent serious problems."

which some of you might know I have the ticking problem since few months ago.... so what is it!? any help is appreciated.

LOL...

Looks to me like your master is leaking. Top it up and see if the pressure comes back. You'll need to fix that soon. Looks like it's leaking pretty badly.

I'm nursing a bad slave right now. I didn't drive my car all weekend and had the delight of the finding the clutch on the floor yesterday morning.

Yes that is just a leaky master cylander.
Rebuild kit @ Crappy Tire is $25 or so.

Have fun with that one!

I had problems finding a rebuild for my slave for a good price so I ended up ordering a new slave for $110 from Adam Clay. I don't know how the master compares though.

I have an extra clutch master cyclinder, i dont know if its okay, I switched it with my old one only to find out that my slave is the problem.

Thanks for the reply guys. So I guess all I need now is a new Clutch Master Cylinder and some Dot3 brake fluid.

rob, when you said rebuild kit, it's a kit to fix the leak or a new cylinder? On the Chilton Manual I have it says that I need a new seal between the mounting flange and firewall, does it come with the kit?

well I guess I need a visit at CT tomorrow after work no matter what. Damn, I just ordered a 16g and now I need to fix this first.

Fai, the rebuild kit contains a new piston assembly for the master cylander you already have. Most of the time that's all you need, and it's far cheaper than buying a new cylander.

The flange/firewall seal they mention in Chiltons is not really necessary, at least not for the mechanical operation of the clutch system. That is just there to keep what's under the hood from getting into the car (smells, fluids etc...). Your existing seal could work, or if it is bad you could just use some RTV.

Good luck with CT. I tried to buy my slave there. They don't carry them for my year. I'm assuming that's for all 2Gs. I said screw em and just emailed Adam Clay. The part should arrive tomorrow.

you mean they don't carry the rebuild kit Rob mentioned or the new cylander?

Rob, is the rebuild kit universal for all car? (I think this is a stupid question, but just to make sure)

I wondered if it was universal, but the rebuild kit for a slave was over $30, so for $110 I just bought a new one. Plus I would have to bore by 1mm with the rebuild.

But like I said before, these are my experiences with the slave so far. I should be replacing it tomorrow.

oh that's right Noah, I forgot you were talking about the Slave one....I believe the Master one should be no $ than the slave one (keep my finger cross) well I'll find out tmr. When I ask for clutch master cylander Rebuild kit over the parts counter I guess they should know what I'm talking about....?

The kit could be the same for 1G and 2G... I'm not sure.
Maybe CT just doesn't carry the slave kit and only the master?

Fai, make sure they understand it is for the clutch. If they ask for $65 then they are looking at the brake master cylander rebuild kit.

You shouldn't need to bore out the master cylander to put in a new piston. As long as the surface is smooth inside, it should be fine.

not too understand here.... but I guess I'll find out when I get the kit

I just checked the CT and they don't carry the clutch master cylander nor the rebuild kit at all!!!
Where else can I get the rebuilt kit? I just want to see if there's any other choice before I call Adam Clay. My pocket is so tight.

Told ya

Try Adam, you never know. It may not be to bad.

When you talk to Adam, ask him if the rebuild kit requires any machining. One of the ones that he's got requires some machining to work, and that always scared me away.

I remember the brand new price not being too bad for the master, so that may be the way to go.

Jeff, that's the slave one. That's why I ordered a new one.

I wonder why it's taking so long. Usually he ships next day.

Are sure that wasn't the master?

I had it all done last week as part of one of my scheduled $1200 oil changes. The throw out was making a bit of noise and the clutch and all it's bits were up for this oil change anyway.I had them do everything from the oil seal behind the flywheel to the rubber on the pedal. Every bolt, pin, bushing etc. Anyway I pulled this off for you

List before discount
MB555133 CYLINDER ASSY, CLUTCH MA $133.79
MD733620 CYLINDER ASSY, CLUTCH RE $ 74.31

Cheers Tony

I wonder... Is the piston assmebly the same on 1G and 2G?

Maybe Amin knows since he just pug a 1G cylander on a 2G according to another post.

I know for certain CT has (or at least had) a 1G master cylander rebuild kit because that's where I got mine.

When I was in at CT, the only thing they had listed in their system was a fly wheel and a pressure plate.

I didn't want to go through the pain of trying to figure out if a 1G rebuild would work for a 2G. So I emailed Adam and he said I'd have to bore it 1mm with the rebuild kit. That's why I said aww **** it, I'll just get a new one. Save myself the headache. We're talking like $60 difference. Who cares.

Just called Adam. Sounds like I should get the whole new cylinder.... it cost me $153, at least I do not have to sell my arm for that one. :rolleyes:

anyone can tell me why the cylinder failed while the car was sitting in my garage?

Well if it's going to die, then it's going to die sometime right?
If it's any consolation, mine died while the car was parked too

It is just a rubber seal in there. It's always under a certain amount of pressure. As you drive you create the pressure to disengage the clutch, so for that time you are driving, you may not notice that it's dying. It's after the car sits and the brake fluid fizzles out of the cylander that your clutch pedal will drop to the floor for the first time.

mitsubishi would obviously be cheaper.

Sometimes Adam gives a good enough deal that it's close.

Mitsu isn't very close to my office, so it's hard for me to get to the parts guy before they close. So having Adam ship to me is nice.

did he charge you shipping cost? just curious...

I'm trying to remove the clevis pin, base on the Chilton. But then I did some search and found that most people suggested not to remove it. Instead, such as the following quote from Steve K:

"Don't remove the clevis pin. Just unthread the master cylinder from the clevis pin and pull the rod out through the firewall. (It'll come out with the master cylinder)."

or

"Just unthread the adjustment rod, then pull the master cylinder out.. and thread the new adjusting rod into the "U" shaped piece."

I'm trying to locate the exact adjustment rod you guys were talking about. Damn the space is tight cuz I didn't remove my seat.... oh well, I guess I should leave the work for tomorrow.
:rolleyes:

Fai, everyone who has done this I'm sure has learned it is a big pain in the ass.



The rod is circled in yellow.
There is a jam nut against the clevis pin. Loosen it and then turn the rod (both clockwise when you're facing the front of the car).

It's a good idea to count the turns it takes to get the rod out.
You then have an idea of how many turns to reinstall and will not have much trouble with adjustment afterwards.

Make sure you use a flare nut wrench (10mm) on the line's fitting.

Don't give up!!

Rob your explaination made my life much easier! Thanks a lot!

now I replaced the master cylinder, filled the reservoir with brake fuild, and the clutch pedal is still the same, stick to the ground.

What should I do now? I pressed the clutch down and up for more than 10 times, looks like the fluid in the reservoir is decreased, but the clutch pedal is the same. Bleed the clutch? How?? Help please... hope it's something else failed on me

I'm glad I could help you out.

Now the final step you are missing is to bleed the hydraulic system.
I believe the instructions in the Haynes manual will suffice.

It's much easier to do when you have a helper to press the clutch pedal for you.

Simply:

1) Fill the bottom of a bottle with brake fluid.
2) Attach a small clear plastic hose between the slave cylander bleeder valve and the bottom of the bottle.
3) Have your helper press the clutch pedal down quick and release slowly - they should do this 3 times.
4) Open the valve. Bubbles will come out of the valve. When the bubbles stop coming out close the valve.
5) Repeat 3 & 4 until no more bubbles come out.

Enjoy!

How big and long should the plastic hose be?

ok, I'm sure I cannot do this by myself, I do not have the jack with me that's the main problem (only the stock jack), my car is lowered and cannot reach the slave cylinder. Can anyone with a Jack and know how to do these procedures, can come to my house and help me out? I will pay your gas and whatever for sure. I'm in McCowan/Steeles area.

Thanks in advance.

The plastic hose should just fit over the bleeder nipple.
I think it's either 5/16" or 1/4" inner diameter.

Sorry Fai I'd help you out tonight but that's a bit far on such short notice.

oh gosh I don't think I have any kind of plastic hose with me neither!

thanks Rob, I know you are far away from Missi... anyone who's available, doesn't have to be tonight, are welcome!

Hey i drive past mccowan and steels like 5 times week. I'll help you bleed the clutch. Just replaced my master and slave.. really is easier with a healper. Mine works beutifuly now.

John Fiddy came over tonight and help me to bleed it. It works perfect now! Thumbs up and 5 stars for him!! Great guy!!!

And thanks for everyone's help. Specially Noah and Rob, you guys gave me lot of great suggestions and advices!!