Hey guys
I have come to the conclusion that my transmission has to come out of my my car to figure out what is going on with my clutch. I figure that while I do this I might as well pull the engine as well and do some work to it over the winter. The question is what do I do? I have done a little bit of research so far and I still need to do quite a bit more before I go ahead with anything. I thought my best advice would be found right here as I know many of you folks have already been through this. I am stuck as to what parts are necessary. My mods are listed in my signature and I have no plans on upgrading my turbo this year but I might possibly upgrade in the future. So what mods should I do to my block/head. What pistons/rods/crank etc. do you guys recommend. I know that you can put the 2.4 crank in but how necessary is it. I have read that the main benefit is you will gain more torque by putting this crank in. I am also under the influence that Ross and Wiseco are the best names in pistons. The thing I am stuck on is what compression ratio do I want to run? The main thing is that I want to build an engine that will be reliable running high boost. I am aware that a new bearing kit is very important. I want to use quality parts so I don't have to do it again but I don't want to upgrade engine parts that aren't necessary for what I want to achieve.
Thanks in advance for the help.

Stick with a stock 2L motor and just freshen it up with new gaskets, seals, rings and bearings. I did this at the beginning of the year this year. The motor has seen 24psi of boost on a 50trim and if I wasn't going with a monster turbo and 30+psi, I'd stick with the stock motor.

I have the 2.3l in my car with a Evo16g, the turbo is a little small to some, if you like to see 20 psi at 2800 rpm it's awesome.
What I do know is a 2100 clutch will NOT hold a 2.3/2.4 a reasonable boost levels, anything over 24 psi I found the clutch would slip, regular driving it was fine, but if you launched or got any heat into the clutch it would slip.
I put in a 2600 and it has been fine.
Compression wise I have mine built with 9.0-1 Ross pistons with Eagle rods. I also used a new OEM Hyundai (G4CS) crank in the build.
Eagle makes a stroker crank, but since they cant make connecting rods that are perfect, thier ability to do a perfect crank is suspect as well. I don't have any proof that thier cranks are not good, I have just seen the quality control that goes into the OEM cranks.
I had Marco (Magnus) build the shortblock, I dropped off a block/crank/rod's, he provided the pistons and bearing's (Clevite) and did the assembly. Cost wise it was similar to the cost of other shops (within a couple hundred bucks total).
As for head work I didn't go crazy I just had the casting flash cleaned up ane went from there.
This winter I am going to a bigger turbo (FP Green sized) and adding 272 cams.
Power wise the car is awesome, the first day was a little funny I was merging onto the highway from an onramp, and when I got up to 100km/h or so I went to switch to 5th and found out I was already there.
With the low-end torque you can actually pull away from a stop in second gear, and down around 1000 rpm you can accelerate without the car lugging.

What Tim said, plus I would freshen up the asthetics of everything under the hood. Paint stuff that might need paint and replace rusty bolts with nice stainless steel ones. Also sandblasting and painting suspension components makes you feel good.

One thing you may wish to consider is why you are rebuilding your engine, if it has good compression etc, leave it alone. If your crank is good you may not want to replace it.
In my case I was rebuilding my motor because the 6-bolt that I had installed spun a rod bearing destroying the motor and leaving essentially everything useless. (nothing like pulling a $3000 motor out of a car and calling the scrap dealer to come and get it.)
Rebuilding a motor isn't cheap.
Here's a rough breakdown of just parts I used.
Eagle rods $350.
Magnus 9:0-1 Ross stroker pistons $625
Clevite bearings $100
Crank $100-500 (used vs new)
Gaskets/front case/oil pump $350
Timing belt parts $250
So you can easily get into $2000 just in parts for the lower end, and then you look into the head as well.
I was easily have $5000 into my motor and as far as a build goes it's fairly "mild"
Price out your build, add 10% for misc expenses nd thats where you can expect to be if everything goes well.

I did a good deal of research on pistons for stroker motors.

From that I would not recommend using Wiseco. They're tolerances are just not as good as Ross, this could lead to piston slap and/or leakage around the rings.

Stick to Ross pistons. Magnus stroker pistons have the wrist pin moved up to allow for the oil squirters in your engine. Not having to cut off the oil squirters can only help your engine.

My 2 cents.

Tim, where did you get these prices?! They are phenominally low and I've done my fair share of shopping. Timing belt kit for $250 is amazing and an oil pump and gasket kit is unbelievably low. Do me a favor and PM me where your source is.

I see no Point in touching the Motor if the Compression is good.

Stock 7bolts can handle alot more power then people give them credit for.

Okay, so far that is awesome feedback and I thank you guys for that. It sounds to me like the stock 7 bolt is capable of more than I am giving it credit for. Right now I am running 18psi on stock internals and that too me seemed as though I might be pushing my luck. But from what I am hearing it shouldn't be harming anything. There is no problems with the engine at all. I haven't done a compression check on it but I would assume that it should be pretty high. I like the sounds of having all that torque at low end. I have to agree that those prices Tim posted seemed lower than what I was researching. Where are abouts is that?

So how much psi can you run on stock internals? I was planning on replacing the clutch anyways as it seems as though mine is shot. I have no complaints about the 2100 however the 2600 will be a better clutch for my setup.

How about if I were to do a 2.4 crank or the Hyundai crank Tim used (BTW what was the cost of the crank) or something along that line with rods and Ross pistons? If I were to do this and leave the head stock Is this a feasible setup and how much boost would this setup be able to handle reliabley? Obviousley if I did this I would also do new seals, gaskets, and bearings. I guess I would also want to be using ARP studs for that setup as well.

Thanks

I've run 24psi Daily on my Stock 7bolt(225,000kms) for the last 2 seasons. Run 26psi at the track. Will run more next year.

As for the prices I posted above, some of those prices are from 2yrs ago when I built the motor, and some are from a Mitsu dealer that I *may* recieve an "unusual" discount for, and before my PM box get filled up with requests for me to go in and get parts for you, I leave for BC in 4 days....
And the "gasket" price des not include a head gasket and a few others as well, was not my intention to give an exact number, but I guess I may have lowballed a few prices as well, sorry about that.

Ryan what you could do is swap out the stock head bolts for a set of ARP's, that will gain you a few PSI.

As for breaking the stock interals they are suprisingly resilient, power usually doesn't break them, tuning mistakes (detonation) does.

With the exception of cams and minor cleanup of the passages in my head, it's stock and I have pushed it to 26-27 psi without any issues.
(ARD headstuds and a Cometic HG though)

As for the cost of the G4CS crank I paid $483 US + shipping, I won't publically post where I got it from, but if you wish to order one PM me and I will try and get you in touch with the person who sells them.
(Member on another DSM board, hope that explains it)

Wow. I had no idea the stock engine could go so far. No worries about the prices Tim. I figured they were ball park. I might get in touch with you for some parts. Is there a noticeable difference between the 4G64 and the G4CS cranks? What made you go with the G4CS?

When I built my 2.3l the failure of my 2.0l was still forefront so I wished to eliminate as many of the failure sources as I could, so I did not wish to use a used crank in the motor, I didn't want to go climbing through junkyads looking for a crank that didn't have any drama attached to it, and most of the cranks you can get from online sources are re-manned so they have been turned down from the stock size, removing the nitrided layer and messing up the radius on the crank/rod journals.
All of the crank failures I have heard about on 2.3/2.4's have been with a cut crank, both Mitsu and Hyundai almost equal.
So the only thing I wanted to use was a new OEM crank, Mitsu discontined the 100mm 6-Bolt crank, so the only source for a new crank was the G4CS.
When I brought the G4CS crank to Magnus, they had no problem using them.
In regards to the piston choice there is a difference in the Magnus Ross pistons vs the ones that are avalible in other shops.
Pretty clearly outlined here:
Magnus Ross:

Ross from Extreme:
[IMG]
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/images//t_16691.gif[/IMG]
The Magnus site has a description of thier piston design and it I believed in it, I actaully picked the piston, and later decided on having them build the shortblock as well.

Interesting.
How do I decide what compression ratio to go with?

oops

Go 9.0-1

Agree'd.

Fair enough.
Out of curiousity, why 9.0:1 over 8.8:1, etc.
I know stock is 8.5:1

It gives a little more power, makes tuning a little tougher but with DSMLink, W/B 02's etc it's not really much of a issue anymore.