Ok, I took off like a bat out of hell leaving a gast station where some buddies work on a 401 truck stop, cause they wanted to see what the car could do. I got to about third gear and it would not go in, I could not get out of neutral. Immediatly I pull it over onto the shoulder to see if I broke a cable or anything obvious, nothing everything looks fine. I took the shift boot off and looked at the shifter assembly all looked fine.

I then hit the shifter with the palm of my hand and it went into third and seemed to work ok. I took it slow at this point. On the way home from where I was it did the same thing again and I had to fight it into gear in the parking lot. Its stiff as hell but its shifting now, It seems the slower I shift the easier it goes in and if I shift fast it will not go in at all.

Could I have jammed something when I left the gas station in a hurry? Or is one of the clutch cylinders failing? I have no idea it worked fine until tonight.

Might've messed up the clutch disk with the hard launch. Maybe broke a spring that got stuck now.

Try to see if you can slip the clutch (like in 3rd or 5th when boost hits). If it slips you need a new clutch. I've had that happen when the friction material sheared off the disk and I was running on rivets. Do you feel any vibration in the clutch pedal or anything?

If you keep forcing the tranny into gear you'll kill your synchros after a while.

The clutch is a brand new centreforce, and once I am in gear everything is normal, the clutch pedal feels the same as before as well. I am thinking something linkage related but I don't know to much about how it works, also it does this regardles of the car in motion or stopped, running or not running.

Ok, just went out and looked at the car. I notice a wet spot on my floor mat. So I looked up and the clutch cylinder (is that one the master or slave?) must have blown. So what do I do now?

Umm... fix it?

Get a rebuild kit or replace it.

Rebuild kit is ordered. Any tips to save time or hassles before I dig into my DSM manual CD? I am going to check vfaq right now.

You ordered a clutch master cylander rebuild kit?
They're about $25 at Canadian Tire. Not to be confused with the brake master cylander rebuild kit which is about $65.

Tip #1:
Do not remove the clevis pin!!! Simply loosen the jam nut and turn the rod (clockwise when facing the front of the car) until it pops out of the fastner. Count the number of turns this takes to come out as you'll want to put it in the same position when you reinstall.

Tip #2:
Use a flare nut wrench for the hydraulic line. If you strip that nut you're in a whole new world of pain!

Tip #3:
Have a helper with you to bleed the system once you've reinstalled the master cylander. It's much easier when you have someone to pump the clutch pedal for you!

For everything else, just follow the shop manual and you'll be fine.

Good luck!

Oh yeah, and have some pain killers on hand for your back!

Adam, when the engine's not running, I think you SHOULD be able to get into all the gears after some fiddling with the shifter, even without pressing the clutch. Can you do this?

It would be interesting though if you blew your master just from some hard shifting...

Thanks rob yah it was the 25$ one, when I got the box I had them double check because its made by a company that does supply brake master kits. I was a bit worried when the handed me that but its the right one. I will have to find a flare nut wrench I defintaly don't have one. I'll check with the farmer/my old school bus driver / my best friends uncle (haha damn I love rednecks) up the road.

Steve yes I did blow it from hard shifting/ fancy clutch work. My friend said he's never seen anyone shift that fast in a long time. It scared the hell out of me when I couldn't get out of neutral on the 401. But once I got it into gear if I just shift normaly or slow it works alright. So I guess its not totaly blown but leaking and not holding the pressure it should.

Well time to get out there and fix this thing.

Thanks

Adam

They're only about $10 at CT

Ok well, I rebuilt the master and under further investigation the slave looks like it is leaking to, is this just a coincedence or can someting else be causing this?

Edit: just took her for a drive it seems alot better but its still harder than before to get into second gear and overall doesn't seem as smooth as before in all gears (shifting or downshifting). I think the slave cylinder will have to be rebuilt to. What do you guys think???

yeah, a moron called Adam!

they both wear together as they have the same age most likely. I think it is normal.

hmm, CT have a rebuild kit for this to?

Also read some old posts, my clutch pedal seems really light, and I have read this is related to the slave being bad. Same with my notchy shifting feel.

Makes sense, the slave looks alot easier to get at than that damn master was and yes Rob My back does hurt haha

Yeah ct has the slave rebuilds for a coupla bucks. It's a 5minute job since the piston just pops out, plus bleeding the system. You don't really even need to take the slave off, you can do it in place.

ordered and will be done pronto.

thanks again

Adam

Hey Bro,
My baby started doing the same thing as yours( identical symptoms)...I took it to Mitsu and they replaced both the slave and the master cylinder, no dice...With motor running the car still wont go into gear...I had the car towed to Radim's shop...I am hoping to have the end diagnosis by Monday evening.
Did you ever solve the situation, and if so, what was the casue of your issues?I'm just trying to get some ideas before I go to magnus and buy a whole tranny...(cryo treated gears and billet shift forks would be nice, but bloody expensive!!)
hope your problem got solved...

Dudeman, search for clutch disengagement problems before you jump into **** like this. I dunno why they'd replace the master and slave if there was nothing wrong with them. If they were slightly bad, fine. Next step after disengagemnt diagnosis is the clutch itself. There's nothing wrong with the tranny most likely if you can get into gears with the engine off.

Apperently my pressure plate is craked in two spots...ACT to the rescue...The tranny was like a worst case senario...I've found that if I expect the worst, it might not happen(ha).

Good to hear was only the pressure plate, my cylinders both started leaking after getting a centreforce dual friction installed. I got the master rebuilt, but the slave kit I got from CT was opened and the rubber was ripped on the piston cup seal, what idiots anyways I should be fine after I rebuild the slave.

Time to fix my UICP leak at the BOV, its slowing me down!