The squeeling actually does stop.. but i mean in general i just cant get rid of it?

The car would squeel almost since i bought it (about a year and 5 months) and I am pretty sure it was always the alternator belt.
Well my alt died so Mike Leclerc put a new one in for me. At the same time put in a new alternator belt. Any ways after the new alt was in, I guess the belt wasnt tight (weird thing is it was working fine like an hour before i turned my car again?)and it started squeeeling like crazy (and the voltage was down to like 12v, and the belt got really got really hot...)
Any ways mike told me just to tighten the belt it was probably too loose, so I did that and it was fine.... until now (a couple weeks later)

Now my car squeels for a second in the mornings, and maybe for a min or so at night until the car warms up a bit. also during the squeeling my voltage drops to around 12.8 (from 13.5-14v)
The belt is pretty tight right now, it feels as tight as the other belts so I guess its fine..

Any ways what else could I check? From what i have been searching lots of dsms squeel, so should I just not worry?

hydraulic dampner

Cheap belts can often stretch a lot and need frequent tightening.
You can buy a can of belt dressing, and lightly spray the belt.
Be sure they are properly adjusted firt though.

Belt dressing will help soften and deglass a hard worn drive belt and help it stick to prevent it from slipping.

Our John deere skidder was horrable for fan and generator drive belt squeeling, even after shimming the pullies and what not it always squeeled when cold. good quality belts and a shot of belt dressing was the only cure.

I'm sure you mean harmonic damper, AKA crank pulley.

is the harmonic damper expensive to replace (parts and labour as im pretty sure i cant do it my self) and is it some thing that I could do at the same time as timing belt? Because I plan to get my timing belt (and related accessories) replaced in some months and if i could save some money and do it all at once that would be great

I'd suggest dressing as well. Or are you in my situation running no tensioner bolt?

Either way if the pulleys are fine I'd assume this can be fixed under $20.

N

Have you taken 10 minutes to tighten the belt yet? This is very common when it gets colder out that the belts squeal a bit.

Yeah, no kidding. Take 30 minutes out of your life and go take a look. It's not going to fix itself by playing internet mechanic. Just re-tighten the belt and look for irregularities (aka - offcentered pullies or loose bolt/nuts on the alternator).

Also look to see if oil or power steering fluid is leaking onto the belt

I forgot to mention, but i did re tighten the belt again a few days ago. I looked for oil, and there wasnt any on the belt. But my power steering belt is not in the best condition, could that be whats causing the squeel and the voltage to go down?

Oh and one more thing When i turn on the rear defroster it will squeel as well..

it is the alternator belt then.

It could possibly be the crank pulley but you should try retightening the belt.

When it start to squeal, let off the gas and let it stop squealing and then go on.

no, you know, that piston dampner thing that you move by pushing fluid at high pressures to actuate the piston....

Yes, Harmonic Dampner....

Thanks Rob....

Check this post out... May be a good idea to pull the 4 bolts off the crank pulley and have a look.

Crank Pulley

Hmm okay, i will try and tighten the belt a little more. Hope that fixes it..

Make sure you tighten the lock nut when finished so it doesn't loosen again.

Make sure alt pulley is straight to the others, sometimes the through bolt that goes through the block and front cover can get worn into an oval if it had ever been loose before.

This causes the alt to sit a bit cocked, it will cause overheating of alt bearings, squealing belts and belt faliure. I had this problem when I bought the car. Took me a while to figure it out.

Remember that bolt going into the water pump? I said to replace that... It is attached to your tensioner.

Also the alternator doesn't run at 14.4 all the time. Only when it is charging the system. It will fluctuate.

Rear defroster & not front? I could see it squeel when the front defroster is turned on as the AC compressor kicks on, indicating your probably having the issue with that belt (probably abit lose) but the rear window defroser? How would that cause a belt to squeel? Sure it puts more of a load on the alternator (electrically) but it doesn't physically load the alternator?

If you have no fluids on the belts (could be from a leaky PS pump) then Id losen the alternator belt & check to see the alternator & other pullies spin freely, if so tension the belt again, with abit more tension.

The rear defroster puts a heavy load on the alternator electrically, therefore makes it harder to spin, if the belt is loose or contaminated by oil, it will squeel as the demand for power increases. R-def, Blower motor on high, rad fans, and high power stereo will all cause a loose belt to squeel before a car that has less power draw with the belt at the same tension.

and the demand for power from the alt physically decreases the engines output by having more drag.

if the voltage is droping to 12v while it's squeeling, then thats because the alternator is no longer spining or not spinning fast enough. (and thats why it's squeeling)tighten belt, make sure all pulleys are in line/not angled, replace belt if needed.

i hope this makes some sense.

I agree, if the alternator is drawing more load (rear defroster is a high load item), then the alternator is needing more torque from the belt & engine to turn it's pulley. More torque can cause belts to slip (& being oil contaminated & incorrectly tensioned). Also slipping belts almost always squeel. You need to tension the belt correctly to stop this slipping, your battery could go flat if the slipping becomes extreme. To charge the battery a minimum of 13.5 volts is needed at the output from the alternator. Most alternators can easily supply full charging current at above idle speed.(14.5 volts will be measured at the battery).

also have a look at your water pump pulley. It can go on backwards and appear to be working correctly. I had help once a while back and in the rush to get it done, it got put on backwards. From the front of the car it was noticably off. The belt was on an angle. It would squeal when cold and was plenty tight. It would be better when dressed but it would only last a day or so.

Oook... small update...
I did go out and tighten it again,all was good, but then squeel came back today.

So I went out again to tighten and I tightended it soo much it will no turn any more (Pretty bad right?) but the belt still has a little play (should the power steering and alt have a similar tnsion? because thats what i was comparing it to)

Any ways Even after tightening it still squeels a bit...

Here are some things I noticed:
-There was no oil from power steering on alternator
-The pullys seem to be "Straight"
-The belt gets Really hot, espcially near the 2 visible pulliess
-The belt is Cheap.. it seems like its worn out a lot (It is a belt from Candian Tire.. "Torque" brand)
-The belt has a lot of "teeth" missing
-There are rubber shavings every where
-When it squeels there is a smell of burnt rubber

I think the belt is cheap and streched, so I am just going to go replace it with a mitsu one in a few days (when I have time).

It is either the belt or the bolt that goes into the waterpump (the one mike said) because that bolt is wrong and is loose.. But I cant get to it my self so I dont think this is some thing I can fix. I want to cross every thing else off my list before I go to this bolt because I cant do it...

Again any info would be great, thanks.

Update 2....
Alt belt just snapped..... i will try a mitsubishi belt sooner then i thought

Okay sorry for the tripple post... but I called mitsubishi and they said the alternator belt costs 68 dollars? every search i come up with (from dsm tuners) range from 10-30 dollars for a mitsubishi OEM one. Are they actually this much? I remember calling the dealer a month ago and i am pretty sure the guy said around 30 dollars (but i could be wrong)..

You probably don't need an OEM belt.
Just pop over to parts source and try one of the gaterback belts, they're thicker then normal belts. I have the alt and PS belt on my 1g. Tightened them once after a week, haven't touched them in a year no squealing.

They're like 20 bucks or so.

Hmm okay ill try them thanks.

Murtaza, I responded to your email, $24. including taxes shipped to your door...

Hey ziggy thanks got the email. I will email back if i cant get some thing by tomorrow (as I want to get my car up by tomorrow afternoon)
Thanks again!

Alt belt $12 at Cooksville Chrysler. Should be even cheaper at Mitsu.

OFB84390 Alt-$12.60
OFB17265 P/S -$10.80

edit thats for a 1G though

I would check the crank pulley if you have missing ribs on the belt and rubber shavings all over the place. It will look fine just looking at it get under the car with the belts loose and give it a pull to see if it moves. The crank pulley will come apart and when you start to speed up they will start to wine because the crank pulley will seprate and make the belt not run true when you let off the gas the crank pulley will go back true again and no more wine.

Crank pully is the one at the bottom correct? (just making sure as I am a NOOOB )

IF it is the pully what would I do from there? just replace the pully? (difficulty?)

Also, I wasn't talking about the PULLEY being crooked, but the belt being out of line. The pulley can be on backwards.

Besides just being a worn, cheap belt, check for what might have caused it to come apart.

I checked if the belts were crooked at that time too.. they were not.

OOooooook just another update..
The pullys were all fine, none moved or any thing.
I put a new belt on, and every thing is good. Not a single sound, Even when i turn on my rear defroster! which is a first in the year and ahalf i owned the car

Any ways thanks for all the help, hopefully its fine ... Atleast until I get the timing belt and related hardware replaced

Thanks again

I guess it only lasted a week.. the squeel is back, and tightening it will do nothing.. next thing on my list is to change that bolt that goes to the water pump.. but need a small bit of info.
Where would I go to get the bolt? Would home depot or candian tire have the size i need?
Second, what kind/size or what ever info i need to go buy a replacement..

The bolt im talking about is the one that goes into the waterpump, and holds a bracket for the alternator tensioner?

Mine is either to long or short.. i cant remember.. All i know is that mike told me its the wrong wone for that spot...

Thanks for any more help

Is the bracket loose and moving around?

Brafasco is your source or another dsm'er with spare bolts.

Yes, the bracket moves around.. when I loosen the tension on the belt, the bracket moves, otherwise it doesnt move (well apparently it does.. but it doesnt look like it moves )

And what is brafasco? Is it a store, online store?

Park your car at crappy tire and remove the bolt.
Find a stainless bolt that is the same thread but a touch shorter.

well its to cold to do that.. but if i cant find the info before hand i may have to

edit: Just wondering would a 6bolt and 67bolt waterpump be the same? would I beale to get the bolt i need from a 6bolt engine?