i know i've seen this before but can't find anything in the search. how do i remove the assembly so i can weld the lever on.

Pull out the drivers seat, and take off the bottom of the dash including the plastic vents and such.

Theres around 8 bolts holding the steering column, take those off plus the one holding the joint near the boot. Now just put the whole column to the side, to save space you can actually take the steering wheel off the column.

Take off the master cylinder from the firewall, two bolts, and diconnect its rod from the clutch lever under the dash, undo the nut and screw the rod out, do the same for the brake booster.

Theres 4 nuts holding the bottom of the assembly to the brake booster, plus theres another 5-7 bolts holding the top of the pedal assembly.
Once you get all the bolts holding the pedal assembly, you need to pull the brake booster as far away from the firewall as possible.
Get someone to hold it and start wiggling the pedal assembly, dont tear the boot on the brake booster
And that should be all, unless i missed something.
Reading this makes it sound kinda easy, but can you believe i spent 3 days doing this the first time?

Make sure you get a new clutch lever, clutch pedal and bushings(#19 and #21 http://members.rogers.com/shabster2/talon/clutch.jpg ) If you weld the worn lever in the wrong position then you might be doing this all over again.

thanks.

Yeah, that sounds about right. Probably the smartest move you can make, on this procedure, is removing that damned seat. I tried it with the seat in...for about 10 mins. Unless your about 3'2", the first thing I'd do is get the seat out. It's really not difficult at all. Then just lay on your back, with the top of your head pressed firmly against the firewall (no afros allowed!). Then start loosening nuts and bolts and get ready to catch falling pedals with your face. I'd say this job ranks right up there with having a root canal done without anesthesia.

Ha ha ha... Paul, I'd say this job ranks right up there with having an open heart surgery without anesthesia. I'd rather do a t-belt job three times in a row than work on this.

Sean, once the pedal is all loose and ready to come out, it's not gonna come out that easy. There is metal bracket (where the relay assembly bolts on to) that gets in the way. You need to cut this using a dremel tool or something.

I strongly advice that you should replace the bushings (#18, 19 on the pic). They're cheap at $3 ea. Check the condition of the the lever (#20). If the square hole is rounded (even slightly), replace it. If you reuse a worn lever it is difficult to find it's precise position. You'll not gonna know until after the pedal assembly is fully installed... pedal will be either too high or too low.

Also when you weld it, do it a gradually or you'll melt the bushings quite instantly.

Take your time and do it right cuz once you weld this thingy there's no going back.