The car's been in a front end accident at about 10-15km/h.

Visible Damage:
Hood, left headlight, bumper cover, intercooler, tie-bar holding radiator is bent (radiator is fine)

Looks to be a couple hundred in parts.

Car was fully drivable until the shop took the front apart.

I was thinking of selling this in the spring since I've moved closer to work and couldn't justify driving everyday, so I guess fate has it...

Prior to accident, the clutch occasionally does not pop up fully after engaging. I think it needs a new master clutch cylinder and a new throw-out bearing. Its driveable and I've been driving it every day like this. Was going to look into it in the spring.

Details of car when I bought it last July are below. Changes I've made are italicized:

1998 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
Black custom metallic paint
153,000kms
1st year winter driven

Engine
4G63(JDM 6-bolt) block
Magnus stage 1 (stock rebuilt) head
HKS cams(264,272)
ARP head studs

Turbo
HKS Sequential blow-off valve
Tial 35mm external wastegate
Turbonetics T3/T4 exhaust manifold (ceramikromed)
Garett T3/T4 50 trim turbo (ceramikromed)

Intake/Exhaust
Magnus Motorsports sheet metal intake manifold
2.5” Tapp Auto custom aluminium intercooler piping
Tapp Auto double core front mount intercooler
3” Tapp Auto intake pipe
3” SS downpipe & 3" hi-flow cat
6 month old 3" SS catback with stealthy black Vibrant dual-tip exhaust

Fuel
AEM high flow Fuel rail
AEM fuel pressure regulator
B&M fuel pressure gauge
Holley 225 forced induction fuel pump (re-wired for even higher flow rate)
720CC injectors

Electronics
AEM EMS (tuned by previous owner)
AEM UEGO Wideband o2 sensor
GM Boost solenoid (for electronic boost control or I have a manual boost controller as well)
3.5 bar map sensor
Intake air temp sensor
Optima Red Top battery in trunk in secured Moroso box

Cooling
Fluidyne aluminium radiator
300ZX TT radiator cap

Driveline
Bully Stage 4 6-puck race clutch and pressure plate
Built up gearbox, with heavy duty synchros and bearings
SHP Racing short throw shifter

Suspension
New Sportlines
KYB AGX adjustable shocks (4 front, 8 rear)
Ingals front camber kit
Rear shimmed for camber correction

Rims/Tires
Rota Subzero Gunmetal w/ polished lip 17 x 7.5” ( 14 lbs each)
Fuzion Zri tires (235/45/17)
Set of winter rims/tires

Brakes
Crossed drilled rotors
Goodridge SS lines all around (DOT approved)

Exterior
Custom metalic black paint (I think about 5 years old... looks great!)

Interior
Momo Trek steering wheel
Momo Corse pedals ( screw in, not covers)
Momo Sphere Evo Airmetal shift knob
Momo floor mats
Mercedes HIDs (awesome)

Fluids
Mobile 1 engine oil
BG Syncroshift II in the tranny
Redline Heavy Duty in the xfer case and rear diff

Track times / Dyno (PREVIOUS OWNER)
Dyno'd 421 hp at the wheels before I owned it
Best pump gas run: 12.2 @116mph (20 psi)
Best race gas run: 12.1 @122mph

Paid over $10,000 last summer. Not sure what to ask for it. Guess I'll start at $7000, OBO.

Its currently at the shop with the front apart. I will try to get pics.

Would like to move this quick so I don't have to store it at home.

Thanks.

This wouldn't happen to be Mike Jackson's old car would it?

Yeah it is, did a search
http://www.ca.dsm.org/forums/ubbthr...n&topic=0&Search=true#Post266227

WOW! This beauty is going to end up like Rob C's car. A shame!

I definitely don't want this thing parted. Someone with some time can easily fix this up and keep it on the road. If I wasn't already thinking about selling it, I would definitely fix it myself and keep it.

Why don't you fix it / have a shop fix it? If it's only a few hundred..

It'd probably be fixed before you found a buyer

I have a driver's side headlight if you decide to fix it. Just send me a PM if you want it (when the time comes)

Few hundred for parts, but there's still labour if not doing it oneself. I don't have the time to do it myself, with 2 kids and wife bugging me about all the renos to do in our new-to-us house. I took a month to change the light bulb on her car.

If you part it let me know... I could use a few things off of it or pm with what you are realistically looking to get for the car.

I mean the car is not legally drivable now because the hood, bumper and light are off. Mechanically, there's nothing wrong and it was fully drivable (took it to collision center, home, to the body shop. etc).

Can I kick you in the teeth for driving it in the winter for the first time?

I've been driving in the snow for almost 15 years. This is the first year THIS Talon has seen snow. The accident was NOT my fault. Even if it was my first year driving in the snow, how does one get past the first year without actually driving?

I think what Mike ment is that you took a BEAUTIFUL Talon that is a salt virgin and you took its virginity away. His comment has nothing to do with your driving skills.

Back on topic, I just got back from the shop. Here's an update:

- Car never had a bumper bar. It was removed to fit the FMIC. Shop has no concerns with this and says it can be put back. You techie guys, please chime in.
- Right headlight was cracked too.
- Radiator has a small hole at the top (not the fins). It could be welded back, I guess?

Let me know what is an appropriate price in light of this update. $4000-5000? I can see the parts adding up to more than $4000.

I'd rather sell it as a whole for someone that ones to bring it back on the road, or someone who wants to make some money parting it themselves.

I have pictures.

this makes me sick. That car was soo beautiful, first time I have ever considered selling my car was to buy this one.

If you part it out you should be able to get more then $5k. I would really hope someone takes in interest in the whole car here. It would be such a waste to see it parted out.

It's in pretty decent shape otherwise guys... low kms... very little snow exposure.

If you have insurance, and it wasn't your fault,

Why even think of parting it out???

It should go under DC PD coverage on your policy.

Cause they wrote it off and they never pay what we pay for the cars. Just trying to narrow the loss margin.

Here's are pics:









Here it is at the shop with the lights and bumper cover removed:



And here it is over the summer. Funny, I don't have a front shot of the car:

They wrote it off, and didn't give you enough cash towards repairs? Did they brand it as salvage then?

Hire and apprs that knows modified / cult vehicles, and fight it with the apprs process.

I have a few that I know that would do a good job.

If you want to PM your details, I'd be glad to help you out.

This is Exactly why I have a 19A policy on my car.
It's insured at a set value.
If anything happens, I get that set value.

Yes,
Thanks,

So why the frack was the car not fixed?

x2 on the salvage question

It was written off. I could pay for the fix myself but as stated, I was already considering selling it in the spring, so no reason to spending my own money fixing it and possibly have no interested buyers when I go to sell. Best to sell it off as is. If I had no thoughts of selling, I would definitely buy the parts and fix it myself.

It is not deemed salvage. I specifically asked my insurance. They stated that the branding will not change because the damages are minor/cosmetic. "The branding will stay as none" were their exact words. They even stated that the car is still insured to be drivable. It is a surprise to me because I thought whenever a car is written off and bought back, there is a salvage title.

That damage is worse than I initially though, but if someone has the time and money to fix it, buying it for 4k would seem reasonable. As much as you don't want to part it out however, I would consider it, since it makes more sense financially

ex.

engine: 2k
ems: 1k
turbo/suspension: 1k
wheels/brakes: 1k

There is your 5 thousand, and you still have plenty left.

It needs a new engine?

OK, let's step back here a second. We went from fixing a fully functional car, to parting out a fully functional car.

Few quick questions before you hastily part it out.

1: Anything wrong with the suspension dynamics (Cracked/bent struts/strut towers, control arms, etc)?
2: Is the frame bent?
3: Does the car run? Any fluids being pushed out?

If the answer to all of these questions are "No" then please consider the following:

2Gb Eclipse Bumper (164 plus tax at Part Source
2Gb Eclipse Headlights, or stock 97-99 Talon Lights (Can find those here)
2Gb DSM Hood (SOMEONE has to have one, even if it's a different color, rattlecan it flat black if you want)

The whole process to fix this could cost you under $500-1000 before paint, but at least it looks semi-decent.

If you part this car out, most here will not be impressed. That's a beautiful car with 1K worth of damage if you do it yourself.

Don't fix it, try and sell it.
Then hopefully this car will have a second chance and be kept away from the salt.

I have a stock hood off my 97 you or someone else can have for free should the car be fixed.

Don't fix it ???? why would you give out advice like that.

This car should be fixed for the $1000 it will cost. Then he could sell it for a reasonable price.

Right now who will by a car that could potentially have many problems after an accident?

This car needs to go to a shop that can double check the condition of the frame, and the insurance company needs to send a written statement saying the car will not have a salvage title and continue from there.

All discussions are moot at this point. Car is tentatively sold.

I did not think there would be so much commotion over this.

Matt Kutts, your comments have seem to be very negative and hostile. I hope that was not your intent. I do not understand why anyone would not want to drive an AWD in the snow, especially with winter tires. So much safer and fun than FWD/RWD. Please feel free to keep your car away from rain too.

Miguel, that's very generous of you. Thank you for offering.

Tin, you have to understand we are passionate about these cars. If this is the first year in TEN it's been winter driven, some might get a little uptight about it.

Now, on that note, we also don't want to see a perfectly good 2G (98 I might add, super rare) be chopped because of a cracked bumper and busted headlight. It would be just as reasonable to junk a Porsche because it blew a tire.

Get what we're saying?

Hope the car goes to a good home, and good luck!

Is this car sold? Is it driveable?

Sorry, just read the first page of posts. Will it drive mechanically without leaking fluids etc?

I think its sold.. I was beat to it by someone else who called 5 minutes earlier than I did... good score who ever got it.

EXACTLY. I considered buying this car when Mike lowered the price. You won't find many examples of the car, let alone those that would have been cared for with the fanatacism Mike put into it... AWD or not, I'd have been loathe to drive it in the Winter.

I also think that damage goes beyond $1k. You can see that the FMIC took a hit, and there's probably some minor stuff in there as well. When you count in the repainting and everything, the repairs probably would have been around $5-6k estimated, and the car's value (no mods, condition doesn't matter) pegged at $5k or less. Automatic write-off.

If whoever bought this car wants to part it out,

I have a client intersted in the motor.

PM if this fits in your plans or e-mail

rafael@onijdm.com

WHOA, how did I NOT see this thread earlier?!

We totaled it? There MUST have been more damage than originally thought then.

Tin, let me know if you need any help negotiating the buy-out however State Farm is known to be pretty damn fair when it comes to that.

I don't think people have meant to be mean or hostile either, people just get their backs up when it comes to vulturizing a beautiful car.

At least now you'll have more free time to fix up that new house of yours.

Email me tomorrow.

Regards,

Grant.

Car is officially sold. Owner is building it, not parting it.

Grant,
The shop had updated their estimate to include replacement of the bumper and the rad. I guess this put it over the top. Although I'm sure most of their estimate was labour.

I drove the car out of the lot yesterday to facilitate loading. Bad idea...Getting to drive it one last time, I didn't want to sell it after that. Just have to remind myself that I can't justify owning it right now nor do I have the time to work on it.